Skip to main content

Full text of "Vogue 1924-09-15: Vol 64 Iss 6"

See other formats


@ Foar FOHS of 
a :' TUMN FAS FHI ae 
and MILLINERSY 


» Seplember 5 1024 ‘ The ConveNast Pusiications Inc. P ree ~35 Cents 


a 











FES REET TET MONTES YE A GN mt AY RTO TI EE TEIN IEE TA te IR ig A ee OM EI 











Og remem thehe ht Ashe RtA AA AA A A AeA At AR A Dee Ke Dee Ree De Matlin nS ian Si i i i ri. 
Sa a ee, ee <9 eS ow Se SS a a ~~ ; oo 


: + : : ~- 5 ‘Zh 5 . + ’ v w, ‘ . . . . . . ¥, 
a’ ah ah Oh’ BB Mae Od OOD OO Od A Oh oe’ A Oe 2 OO EY a a EEE OO a > 2D Ee oho ad oo od Ch SR oD ED’ oD’ ED’ ED’ oR'SD' AD oD pe eV eV ee Noe Ve es eee SS ey oY * Vey - 2 es ) <_ 











x 
ra 


g Bath Crystals, Soap and After-the-Bath 


7 West 22nd Street, New York 
I enclose 25c for trial-size Personal Fragrance Package 


F. R. Arnold & Co., Importers 


containin 
Powder. 





“a ha ell a en Nn i nn hn, in? De® Din dn Ben Do de B= a Do? dnd * De Dr De Do? De Da * Dan Dw? Pan Pint nine eet Ye inh a ar tl i an in tht te tt tall “7.7 ay oe oy oP te X. Sr. 7. =. * <7. = — 
= —— a) —— as a — — —— —— = — as = oo -— i Yr % - ? a ‘. “ f° ‘ = ‘ 


= Le a 7 ————} — ae a 7 


~ > » ; as P : j 
tw: Vevey y> w Tovew-syoy we vey we yoyo ey YoY YY Ye YY ee NY ee ee oe eee et eee Pt te ee eee ee <a an an’ Ae 2 OROR Oh ORE a On Ae Ohm’ OD ORO AR AD EEO ER ER EDR EERO OOOO Oe’ 2 


a 












































TIFFANY & GO 


JEWELRY PEARLS SILVERWARE 


QuALity- A TRADITION 


MAIL INQUIRIES RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION 


FIFTH AVENUE & 3/2 STREET 
NEW YORK 


























VOGUE 


th 





















































Clara kimbal | You ng 


The most fashionably-dressed women 
in America—Hollywood’s Beautiful 
screen stars—find their every fur ideal 
richly realized in Beckman’s Furs. 


M1 Thus {9s -Angeles has come to be known as not only the (apital of elane 





PEWYy : 
Ollivon Filmdom but as the undisputed Mecca to which these widely-travelled llova ks 
celebrities turn for exquisite fur creations to accentuate their loveliness 
.... Out-of-Town Inquiries Given Prompt Attention... 














FURS 



































Myers : : | = 

















—— 


— VOGUE is published on the 1st and 15th of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., at Greenwich, Conn, Executive and publishing Vol. Ne. 64, No. 6 
V OG U E offices, Greenwich, Conn. Editorial offices, 19 West 44th Street, New York City. Subscriptions for the United States, Canada, Porto Rico E . ; 
} September 15, 1924 and the Philippines $5.00 a year in advance. Application for entry as second class matter at the Post Office at Greenwich, Conn. pending. Whole No. 1247 : 


' 





September 15 









































ANOTHER PARIS SUCCESS MAKES ITS NEW YORK DEBUT AT BEST'S 
THE BERNARD COAT-FROCK 
IN ENGLISH MATERIALS 
Both versions are 
in imported tan 
mixture fabric, 
cross-barred in 
red, blue, brown. 
Misses’ sizes, 14 
to 20 years, 
Single-breasted 
Model—priced 
79.50 
Double-breasted 
Model — priced 
75.00 

Best & Co. ° ° ° 

Fashion Esk ; | 'HIS is the dress that. was inspired by the : 

will be held in ° oa ° ° 

the filloniig Prince of Wales’ visit to Paris last Spring, 

cities between ° ° ° 

Sipennber 3 and the dress that is mentioned in every report 

and 3oth: ere é 

on of what smart Paris is wearing. We have repro- 

"BUFFALO duced it exactly—even to the stunning “Prince ‘ 
— de Galles” mixture fabric which was the feature 
“CHICAGO” of the original. | 
ST. LOUIS 
INDIANAPOLIS 
LOUISVILLE ! 

si est & Co. °” 
ee 

eahdcs Samet Fifth Ave. at 35th Street—N. Y. 

/ 1 nmap bi Wl i 























VOGUE 

















Junior Misses’ Party Frocks that express 
the mede in coral or robin’s-egg blue geor- 
gette over silk lining, effectively embel- 
lished with ribbon cocardes in flower 
designs; 


Sizes 15 and 17 $25.00 


FIFTH AVENUE 
Thirty-fourth Street 


Girl’s Wool Coats of green or tan heather 
mixture, with wool plaid lining and rac- 
coon choker collar. 


$29.50 
$33.50 


Sizes 6, 8 and 10; 


Sizes 12 to 16 


B. Altman & Co. 


NEW YORK 





Youths’ Blue Cheviot Suits, with two 
pairs of long trousers; 
Sizes 17 to 20 

Girls’ Wool Plaid Dresses, in red-and- 
tan, with patent leather belt; 
Sizes 6 to 12 


$38.50 


$10.50 


MADISON AVENUE 
Thirty-fifth Street 


“CCN algunas ltd esbiinds OEE SI me 














ati 


nats ahd insoles 














“J 











ee eet 





RRMA DRE se 


ee om 


September 15 











for the School and (College Exodus 


Py 
en 
* & 


A 
\ 








f pi 


iit; e 
‘am le 


é 


yes 
ae 


Phe, 


A smart model for Junior Misses, de- 
veloped in navy blue hair-line striped 
worsted; two-piece tunic style, trimmed 
with white satin collar’ and small red 
buttons; 

Sizes 15 to 17 


Boys’ Suits, of brown, gray or blue-gray 


mixture, with two pairs of knickers; 
Sizes 8 to 18 $32.00 to $42.50 


$19.75 


FIFTH AVENUE 
Thirty-fourth Street 




















Girls’ Rain Coats, in silk or cantonette, 
with detachable cape; in tan or navy 
blue; 

Sizes 6 to 16 Silk Coat, $15.00 
Cantonette, $12.50 


Other Furnishings, as well as Luggage, 
to complete the School Outfit, are avail- 
able at most moderate figures. 


B. Altman & Co. 


NEW YORK 





Youths’ Suits of brown, gray or blue- 
gray mixture, some with two pairs of 
long trousers, others with one pair of 
long trousers and one pair of knickers. 


Sizes 17 to 20 $40.00 to 348.00 


Boys’ Suits, of blue cheviot or serge, 
with two pairs of knickers; 


Sizes 8 to 18 $35.00 


MADISON AVENUE 
Thirty-fifth Street 





a 














: 
| 


Amnbre Mousse-"(canted in Blue)- Coeur de Faris” (canted in Red )-Acoltan Gi canted in Whrte) 


ALSO DISTRIBUTORS OF THE UNRIVALLED “CITIANE’” CREAM 





LENTHERIC 


245,RUE STHONORE-PARIS 


asks from the Connoisseur ot lertumes permission to announce the 


establishment of the American Depot ~LENTHERIC , Ine. 


Lhus there comes into being a new and even more intimate re— 
lationship between the discriminating American woman and the 
dean of French perfumers./Vo longer need one depend on chance 
importations ot the exquisite Lenth 67ic creations. Lhe A merican 

epot is now the sure source of supply for your merchant 
anywhere im the United States. 

LVor is this all O ur Paris originators are creating a repertoire 
of new containments in the entire series sumptuous and 
heautitul — of which a hint may he gained from the photograph 
above. Laccarat color—canted bottle —stopper-cover of gold, with 
enamel inlay —a case harmonizing in color, and lined with 
gold silk, adaptable tomany charming uses in the houdoir.Of 
the celebrated Lenthé&ric odors , Lhe followin g are now at your 


command in the new containments :— 





LENTHERIC Inc. 


380,Fif th Avenue New York City 





VOGUE 4} Set 











iaiiadiie 





SN ee 





: 


September 15 d 


fount Cai Gf 


The growing girl who 
ts not quileamiss and 
cerlainly no longer a 

child requires cleverly 

_sgptice: styled clothes which 
one gwe her the poise of 
the late ’teens with all 
the grace and charm 
latent in her own de- 
lictous youth. This 
young person ts 
lermed “A Junior’ 
—and in the new 
Junior Departmen, 
she will find a grati- 
Jyingly large array 
of pretty clothes thal 
are sutlable and be- 
coming. 

















































4 OOGODO0 | og} 
ES ao eee ee ee 


pe. 








A—Junior coat of soft 
suede-like fabric with 
large collar and wide 
cuffsof Australianopos- 
sum. Attractive pockets. 
Inverted tucks trim back 
and sleeves. Crepe de chine 
lined. Green, burnt russe, 
blue and Monterey. Sizes 
13, 15,.a@na Tf, $58.75 


C—aA great wrappy coat 
of rich chinchilla is of- 
Jered in overplaid effect in 
green, tan and brown. A 
large choker collar of self 
material. Twill lined. 
Sizes 6 to 16. $18.74 


E—Smart notch-collar 
topcoat may be had in 
double-faced fabric—plain 
with plaid back—over- 
plaid with plain back. 
Half sateen lined. In 
burnt russet, deer, heather, 
grey. Sizes 6 to 16. $16.74 


ere. 


B—Swagger Sport coat of 
warmdeep-pilefabric,with 
large raccoon shawl collar. 
Suedene lining. Altraclive 
pockets. Deer and heather, 
as well as smart plaids in 
brown, burnt russel and 
deer combinations. Sizes 


6tol6. $24.74 


D—Large collar and cuffs 
of American opossum 
distinguish this coat of 
soft plaid material. Green, 
brown, blue, burnt russet. 
Sizes 6 to 16 years. $18.74 


F—Quite a charming coat 
for “best” is this model in 
lustrous deep-napped fab- 
ric, with collar and cuffs 
of gleaming nutria. It 
is deftly trimmed with 
stitching. Tan, deer and 
burnt russet. Sizes 6 to 
16 years. $33.75 


34” ST. & BROADWAY 


JZ NEWYORK CITY 

















Ss. 


VOGUE 





OOoocece *2000O OO0000e-e000O OO00ee-e0090 DO O000e “0 0O OD OO000e02000 CQO 000-200 0D OOO 000°+0000 ODO Co0eed000 QOOO00ee-20000 OO00d0e-2200O OO0000e-20000 OO000e-- 20000 Q000ee-»0000Q) Do 0009-0000 O C)O00ee. 200000) “c00O 


vy 





























ee ee — REE HOR gre wee my RS 


i 





* 


Pressions 


le CX 


ris 


Dy am 


LY. 
Man 


utumn’s new st 
for the wo 


re. 


a a ’ 





Leing shown with.other Blackshire models by the better shops 


Other Blackshire Models for Autumn are pictured in Harper’s Bazar, September issue, page 14 





—_——_—ae— (i 











a AS ON on ad 





SRO the 


eee 











September 15 


OOo0e¢-2009O0OD Oo002 -e00 DOO Q0000+e000O OD Q000e+ e000 DQ O000°+20000C) OO000¢ #00 DOD Qo0e2:200 00D 0000-200 00D OO00e+e0000O QO00e-s000O0O) Oo0ee: e0000O 


UBICA 


| PARIS 
2 COLI PPPIC 410 frky 2 


AS 











oOo 


for 
ie 9 


Lear 





Q0002120000 C)QO0000+0000O QOO0de¢-20000 OO0002-ee09 DO QOO0ce- P200O QD QD000-200 DO D000 -se0QDO DC. O0000+#0000 OO O0eee0000 Q0000e+00000 0) 00000-00000 OOdooece °0000 


si, 


| eae 














SAN Wesel 
+ SEES EE SEE EEE EET ESP EEE SSS STS SSS 


Subtilite Perfume, $8.50 Sabtilite—de luxe (Buddha), $12.50 Subtilite Perfume. $8.50 


2000 OQ) Q0000e+200 DOO OO000¢ --c0 DOOD QO000: 000 O OD OO0ee-2000OOD O00 ++e000OD O00P2+000 OOO 0002+ 0 00D) O0002#*#000 OD) Q000%-000 OO. OO0%- 22000 OO002#-2000 OTF) 000% +800OO OOd0e- +0000 


Introducing the new Houbigant perfume “Subtilité.” It is a delightful odor, 
delicate and original—created for the woman who wishes an individual and 
exclusive fragrance. It comes in an attractive two-ounce bottle charmingly 
boxed, or in a crystal Buddha enshrined in a stunning black silk case. 


O000- 2000 OQOO00e 00 OQO00e- 0000 QO000¢ 20009 Q.00000-00009 QO000%+20000 O.0000"+22009 OO000++29009 OO000e-20000 C}O000e - e000 OO O00re- 20000 


HOUBIGANT inc. 16, West 49. Street. New York. 46,S' Alexandre St. Montréal 


QOocdce _ RRR. RE 


O00v-QO000e:--oo9 DO O00" 









VOGUE 























AGENCIES : “4 |) BOOT SHOPS 
O40 . —— rode 
ATLANTA 
: New York 
M. Rich & Bros. Co: 
aces leans 32-34 West 34th Street 
Hirsch Millinery Co. Boston 
BRIDGEPORT 158 Tremont Street 
Howland Dry Goods Co. CHICAGO 
BuFFALO 4610 Sheridan Road 
_Adam, Meldrum & Anderson Co, CHIcAGco 
CINCINNATI 3309 West Roosevelt Road 
Jos. Pietzuch Co. 
CLEVELAND DENVER 
Pocock Wolfram 825 Sixteenth Street 
Da.ias Detroit 
A. Harris & Co. Inc. 1417 Woodward Avenue 
Fort WortH LoulIsvILLe 
aman Co. 536 South Fourth Street 
E. Gottschalk & Co. Inc. PITTSBURGH 
<= — 235 Fifth Avenue 
Brown, Thomson & Co. ToLeDo 
Houston 501 Adams Street 


Foley Bros. Dry Goods Co, 
INDIANAPOLIS 

Rink’s Cloak House, Inc. 
JACKSONVILLE 

Cohen Brothers 
Los ANGELES 


San Francisco 
214 Post Street 


WAsHINGTON 
1219 F Street, N. W. 


Broadway Dept. Store, Inc. sasacael 
MEMPHIS 

Bry-Block AND AT LEADING 
MINNEAPOLIS 


E. E. Atkinson & Co. 
OKLAHOMA CIty 

The Kerr Dry Goods Co. 
PROVIDENCE 

Callender, McAuslan & Troup Co, 
RicHMOND 

The Cohen Co. Inc. 
SAVANNAH 

Leopold Adler 
Sr. Lours 


Brandt's, Inc. “Juanita” 
Troy 


Wm. H. Frear & Co. Inc. Cael / CAdistinctive PATENT. LEATHER shoe 
with cut-steel beaded gore, medium Paris 


Louis wood heel and flexible sole 


INVITING YOU TO THE NEW SEASON’S SHOWINGS 
OF FAMOUS SHOES FOR WOMEN 


The styles illustrated are selected from 
the many now featured in leading stores 


THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY 
























“Demure” 


“Designed in all PATENT LEATHER, 
with front piece and waist strap, and 
the correct, covered wood Paris heel 
and flexible sole 





“Dalton” 
cA dress shoe of BLack SATIN, with cut- 
out front piece of BLack Ooze, made in 
the smart 1-strap pattern, with medium, 
covered wood heel and flexible sole 








(orrecr styles for each occasion and requirement for 
every wearer a PERFECT-FITTING shoe, with PERFECT SERVICE 
and sATISFACTION assured by this Trade Mark on every 
pair, at prices from $5.50 to $10.00. @ Additional styles 
are featured in a dainty booklet, mailed free on request. 










“ 5 
Bagdad” —" THOMAS G. PLANT COMPANY, Makers 
Che gore pump for street dress is 
presented here in Piccapuy TAN 93 BickForpD STREET, Boston (20), MASSACHUSETTS 


Cate, with rubber-top walking heel 
and Goodyear welt sole 


“Alton” 


cA smart, new BLaAcK Kip 2-strap 
‘“ 9 with quarter cut out Made for street 
Cornell wear with medium, rubber-top heel and 
An ideal Blucher oxford for brisk Goodyear welt sole 
Autumn days, made of Bunny 
(light tan) Brasste Catr, with welt 
sole and low, rubber heel 


SHOE STORES AND DEPARTMENTS 

















| 
' 
: 
; 
1 
hi 


- Cor 


a 





Mac 


for | 


beat 


% emi! 


pale ARS 


Pade Baro 


new 
coat 


> 














Mile Baia 


WR bas 





September 15 


a Si 


CPris models 


orecasting the Autumn 
mode 


| PREMET 
_ YVONNE CARETTE 
MLLE. ORANGE 


THE foremost Paris houses are using cor- 
duroy for fall! 

Using it for street frocks, for the ensemble, 
for the “robe intime.” 

Premet, the famous creator of the garconne 
frock, uses it for his redingote model! 


In this street frock called “ Picasso” he uses 


_ the soft lustrous surface of Waterside Cordu- 


roy to relieve its severity. With his well- 


| known flair for fabric he cuts it so that the 
» wide soft wales run cross-wise, accentuating 


} its play of light and shadow. 


ee 


Mere 


FN oo ae RO ce ae hee or 2 ee 


Yvonne Carette shows a “robe intime” 
that depends entirely for its luxurious char- 
acter on the fabric — Waterside Corduroy! 
This Paris couturiére, known for the ingenious 
simplicity of her designs, out of a square piece 
of Waterside and a bit of chiffon creates a 
softly draped negligée that would make the 
plainest woman lovely. 


A French creation that tubs 


Mademoiselle Orange creates tiny ensembles 
for the little Parisiennes. And of Waterside 
Corduroy! Because its richness contributes 
beauty to an outfit that even in Paris must be 
eminently practical. 

Waterside Corduroy washes and cleans like 
new, so that the little sleeveless frock, the chic 
coat and even the matching cap and leggins 





FROM PREMET- 
“ PICASSO” 


Save for many, many 
buttons and a touch of 
bright silk, Premet 
leaves his redingote 
model untouched so that 
the beauty of the fabric 
is displayed. 


FROM MLLE. ORANGE— ¥ 
‘“‘LOUP GAROU” 


A tiny sleeveless frock with 
its skirt cut to multiply 
Waterside’s play of light and 
shade, a coat and hat of the 
same, all trimmed with 
“Suedelike” instead of 
leather so that it may wash. 




















FROM CARETTE—“ ROSALYN DE” 


Designing this “robe intime” for the Parisienne, 
Yvonne Carette used the pliancy and beautiful color of 
Waterside to create a luxurious garment. 


can be repeatedly worn and refreshed! Even 
the trimmings of Waterside Suedelike tub 
with equal success. 

Ask to see Waterside Corduroy at your 
favorite store. You will find it in all the fash- 
ionable colors. If they should not have it, we 
will gladly send you the name of your nearest 
dealer. You will find, too, that the finest ready- 
made negligées are of Waterside Corduroy. 
Howlett & Hockmeyer, Fifth Avenue, cor. 
26th Street, New York. Waterside Mills, 
Lowell, Massachusetts. 


e 


Premet himself says— 


“The cult of simplicity holds first place 
with the woman who remains always youth- 
ful. The material of which we have made the 
model ‘Picasso’ for you will illustrate the 
fact that a frock can achieve elegance by 
perfect simplicity if, first of all, the material 
chosen be self-sufficient— adding to the rich- 
ness of its color that indispensable softness 


(UATERSIDE CORDUROY “Hex 











BOUTON 












VOGUE 


C Vici kid figures largely in the 


new footwear fashions 


LAIRD, SCHOBER & COMPANY 


PHILADELPHIA 


Announce 


timely and authoritative models in 
Vici kid — distinctive interpreta- 
tions of the current footwear mode 


Presented at retail by 


JOHN WANAMAKER CHAS. A. STEVENS & BROS. THE HENRY H. TUTTLE CO. STRAWBRIDGE & CLOTHIER 
New York Chicago Boston Philadelphia 


WETHERBY-KAYSER SHOE CO. 
Los Angeles Pasadena Hollywood 


R. H. FYFE & CO. KAUSMANN’S “THE BIG STORE” F. &R. LAZARUS & CO. D. H. HOLMES CO., LTD. 
Detroit Pittsburgh Columbus New Orleans 
HUTZLER BROTHERS CO. GEORGE MUSE CLOTHING CO. 
Baltimore Atlanta 
TURRELL SHOE CO. MEIER & FRANK CO. ~ TAFT & PENNOYER CO. 
Seattle Portland Oakland 
CITY OF PARIS DRY GOODS CO. THE EMPORIUM SOMMER: & KAUFMANN THE WHITE HOUSE 


San Francisco 


MICHEL A. LEVY McDONALD SHOE CO. 
Santa Barbara Tacoma 


BESTEN & LANGEN CO., INC. LAVENSON’S, INC. SYMONS DRY GOODS CO. SCHULDENFREI DRY GOODS CO. 
Louisville Sacramento Butte Atlantic City 










Look for the Vici kid trade mark in the 
Laird, Schober and Company models as 
shown on these pages. It identifies the — 


leather as the one and only Vici kid. vies 


o> § 
MADE ONLY BY 


There is only one Vici kid— ROBT HFOERDERER INC. 
there never has been any other. PHILADELPHIA 





SYLVAN 


CLYTIE- 
LYTIE-LORA REG. U.S, 


ere ee pos ia 


sbsdbeaiiits 





ae rn 


Pn ae 





et Rate RES 


ee 


ina en 


ete 


we ie as tants eds A 











PAT. 





‘ ai le 











tN i i a Rai 





September 15 


ICI kid is manufactured exclusively by Robert H. 
Foerderer,Inc. Makers of fine footwear select Vici kid 
for its consistent quality and the grace and richness it 


gives to their most distinctive models. 


e ROBERT H. FOERDERER, Inc. 


PHILADELPHIA 


PAT. OFF. 
















The FOOT 
| ARISTOCRATIC 





VENTNOR 















VOGUE | S 














= 
| 
“The colorful plaids that Paris loves had important consider~ 
ation when Golflex was fashioning its smart Autumn Frocks. 
There’ freat charm in the style photographed ~ its scarlet~ 
and~black colors complemented by the scarlet of its vestee, 
the black of its jaunty tie. ¢A crisp white organdie collar FOR SALE ONLY AT 
spells youth. Its worth while to insist on Golflex clothes / sence S70 van 
WILKIN &~ ADLER INC., 500 SEVENTH AVENUE,N.Y.C. D 


ENTIRE CONTENTS COPYRIGHTED, 1924, BY WILKIN & ADLER, INC : 





Se Se lee tint Taal 


be 





September 15 


A provocative lilt! A chie French brush tacked ina 
knowing way! Satin pleated and cuffed ribbon bind= 
ing the crown and upper face of brim! The new season 
brings no more fascinating black velvet model. 





Lustrous black velvet fashions this model, while gros- 
grain ribbon in rose blush and ashes-of-roses blends to 
trim the crown and to peep from beneath the brim. 


























Graceful height and a flattering breadth are granted 
the wearer of this dashing little hat of black velvet. 
French embossed ribbon edges the velvet wings and 
finishes the crown, Universally becoming ! 


In each original De Marinis hat is found this signature 




















THE UNIFORM HAIR DRESS DEMANDS THE INDIVIDUAL CHAPEAU! 


~~ have the designers created mil- 


linery more adapted to the season’s need. 


One’s new bob may be quite indistinguishable 
from one’s sisters’, but in a De Marinis 
model, there is that quality which never fails 
to individualize. 


In the De Marinis fall hats are included the 
newest of Paris lines, those shades which 
are destined to be the mode both here and 
abroad, and each accepted material —rich 
velvet and velour, the all-year-round felt, satin 
and silk, and metal lace for the in-between 


seasons. 





DE MARINIS & LORIE, Inc., 417 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK 

















16 



































a one Comrts-Bor Wart 
MUA ~~ 4 Coat 


Sh sakes ar 


Huet 


For smart occasions in Town and Country come models that will just 
meet your needs. Swagger, mannish Sports Coats; femininely gracious 
Top Coats finished with complementary luxurious furs, and the Every- 
day-General-Utility-Coat, all fashioned of Shagmoor in the inimitable 


Linder way. 

Shagmoor, 100% selected virgin wool, is, as you know, light in weight 
yet warm, wrinkle proof, sheds rain and dust as the coat of any sheep, 
ideal material for the Top Coat. 


Write for our booklet showing twelve of the new models for Fall and 
we shall be glad to tell you where they can be purchased. 


inder Pros 


205 West 36th Street NEW YORK 498 Seventh Avenue 





VOGUE 





—- ff .. 








! 


‘TOWLE 


} 
i 


) 


The beauty and simplicity of modern 

American art are charmingly har- 

monized with the magnificent Louis 

XIV period in this newest of Towle 

patterns, now on display at your 
jeweler’s 











LouisXIV\; | 


| J Dessert Fork 





oo mm O68 a 0 OS mS OO ee 808 me OO 6 ee 00 6 oe 0 8 
. 


SOLID 





ome 6 Fame 9 6 Camm 6 + + aero 80 aE 6 6 Om OOF a 6 08 am 0 08 ae © 6 8 ae 0 6 8 ee 08 0 ee 0 08 ee 0 68 OF ee 


O> HE cherished ideal of every woman is genuine hospitality. No- 
O where in the home is personality more truly expressed than at 
the dining table. Here distinction is obtained only by choosing those 
table appointments that are beautiful, suitable and genuine. 


When she realizes that Towle Solid Silver—precious 
through the ages—is moderately priced and that its beauty 
and rare craftsmanship will reflect the quality of her home, 
why should she set her table with anything but the best! 


The secret of a Perfect Table is SOLID SILVER. 


The following pages picture most charmingly the correct service for 
the breakfast tray, luncheon table, the serving of afternoon tea, 
the formal dinner, after-dinner coffee and for the buffet supper. 


28 me 008 ee Fo Oe OF Oe 98 ee OOS me OE 4 oe SOR ae OO 








eh Okc om 
Solid Silver 


NEWBURYPORT ~ MASSACHUSETTS 


’ 
Oe ee O86 em 00 6 ee Og ee COS 


17 


rh: Vv EE 


The finely proportioned panel and 
each decorative feature, from the 
conventional fuchsia at the end to 
the charming flowerettes near the 
bowl, reflect the beauty of this dis 
tinctive period of French art 











Louis XIV Dessert Spoon 








al 








18 


TOWLE 


In preparing these pages, 
we have enjoyed the co- 
operation of: 

CHAMBERLIN Dopps 

Interior Decoration 
Wii H. PLUMMER AND 

CoMPANY 


Glass and China 


GranveE Maison vE Bianec 
Linen and Laces 


THE 


The Early 


Orange 
Spoon 


ling). 


Mary CHILTON 


American 
tradition with its com- 
bination of grace and 
restraint is expressed in 
Nis every line that distin- 

inl guishes the Mary Chil- 
ton pattern, by Towle, 
in Solid Silver (Ster- 


SOLID 





The breakfast tray is recognized 
today as not only one of the most 
comfortable but most convenient 
ways of serving breakfast, and 
this accounts for its use in small 
as well as large households. 





When Mary (Chilton) Winslow, who history says was the first woman to come ashore 
when the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock, wrote in her will, “I give unto my Daughter 
Susanna Latham, my small silver Tankard: Six Silver Spoons,” she little knew that 
she bequeathed to future generations an inspiration in Solid Silver that would perpetuate 
her name for all time. 


VOGUE 


SILVER 


The perfectly appointed 

breakfast tray combines 

simplicity, charm and 
service 


The Perfectly Appointed Breakfast ‘Tray 


Simplicity and absence of formality 
should be its keynote which makes 
the Mary Chilton pattern, remark- 
able for its grace and early American 
simplicity, a particularly appropriate 
choice in Solid Silver if supple- 
mented by delicate crystal, simple 
linen and china of an equal purity 
of design. 


The tray must be uncrowded but 
adequate. This means a careful 
selection of the proper sizes for each 
piece of silver. The coffee-pot, 
cream pitcher and hot milk jug 
must be generous, the two necessary 
covered dishes for hot bread and the 
main breakfast dish of medium 
size, while the sugar containers, salts 


and peppers and the dish for iced 


butter may be small. This will leave ~ 


room for the necessary china and 
glass and perhaps the vase of flowers 
that adds so delicate a touch. 


4 
: 
? 
: 





S 


lui 


dis 


W 
in 

sin 
rul 
ali 


ap) 
chi 


Th 


che 
kn: 
fot 
are 


Set 


brc 








} 
{ 


September 15 









This is a delightful example of the present day luncheon 
table set with the Solid Silver Lady Mary pattern, by Towle, 
with colourful china and with distinctive crystal and linen 


The Modern Luncheon ‘Table 


The table set for the modern 
luncheon has a character quite 
distinct from that of any other 
meal and one of decided charm. 


Whether the luncheon is served 
in the most elaborate or the 
simplest home, certain general 
rules prevail. There should be 
a lightness and grace to the table 
appointments and there may be 
a pretty use of colour in both 
china and floral decorations. 


The silver used will depend 
upon the particular menu 
chosen, but two forks, two 
knives, a spoon for bouillon or 
for melon, and a butter knife 
are usually all that appear at the 
beginning of the meal, the des- 
sert spoon and fork being 
brought in later on the dessert 
plate. The silver piece to hold 
the flowers in the centre may be 
low and flat, as is illustrated, or 
of the bowl shape, but it is best 
to have it fairly simple in char- 


There is an eighteenth century charm 
to Towle’s delicate Lady Mary Pat- 
tern, in Solid Silver (Sterling) that 
is decidedly reminiscent of the Lady 
Mary Montague from whom it takes 
its name. 
acter as befits the meal itself, 
which seldom consists today of 
more than four courses —a 
melon or bouillon course, the 


main course, a salad and dessert. 


To observe certain general rules 
for the service of luncheon does 
not mean that personal taste 
may not have its privileges, but 
simplicity and harmony should 
be the keynote. Charm and deli- 
cacy is beautifully reflected in 
the Lady Mary pattern in Solid 
Silver. To express this harmony 
all the pieces of silver must 
match. This can be carried out 
not only in the several indivi- 
dual covers, but also in the silver 
serving pieces. [he entire treat- 
ment of this beautiful pattern 
proclaims a perfect harmony 
with the other appointments of 
a table of distinction. 
















































Salad Serving Set 


(REDUCED SIZE) 


THE LADY MARY 


19 











OREN ome kA 











Lemon Fork 






Tea Spoon 





Sugar Tongs 


THE LADY CONSTANCE 


The Lady Constance pattern is a reflection of our own 
times in the distinction of its design, chosen particularly 
to blend with the beautiful furniture and with the ap- 
vointments of the modern dining table. It adheres to no 
particular period but has a delightful character that is 
all its own. 


VOGUE 





Gleaming Solid Silver, in this case the Lady Constance pattern, by Towle, ana 
glistening cups promise a refreshing cup of tea 


The Comfort of Afternoon Tea 


There is something so generally 
satisfying in a refreshing cup of 
tea, that the custom of serving it 
in the late afternoon has become 
practically universal in this 
country in even the smallest of 
households. 


The successful hostess makes a 
delightful art of it, knowing 
full well that it merits the 
attention she gives to each de- 
tail. 


The silver tea tray is brought in 
and set before her—preferably 





ona fairly lowtable. The water 
in the kettle is almost boiling, 
the tea is at hand in a caddy and 
the teapot has been freshly 
scalded. Cream, sugar, lemon; 
cups and saucers, and spoons are 
conveniently placed upon it. Or 
on a convenient curate stand are 
plates with a napkin between 
each one, forks, dessert size, if 
these are needed for cake or 
pastry, and several plates of 
sandwiches, toast, English muf- 
fins, cookies or whatever is to be 
served, with perhaps a dish 
of jam, in which case dessert 
knives are arranged in a pile 


beside the forks. 


The secret of tea served at its 
best is good tea, freshly made, 
served hot, with the attendant 
breads or cakes, as the case may 


be, equally fresh or hot. 











Th 


— suc 


tab 


| ver 
| ed 


a | 
tab! 


i ver. 
| pro 
' the 

| desi 


DC 


rich 
are 


' the 


| dini 


. The 
/ mas 
» neec 
' oftt 
fa cl 





oh ) 





i 


Av ——_ —~w 


Av —— eS — Se 


~— oe 


Av 


— 





sqpothini? 


3 


September 15 





The formal dinner table with its rich laces, gleaming crystal and fine china 1s 
perfectly complemented by the magnificent D’Orleans, pattern de luxe, ia 


Solid Silver 


The Formal Dinner Table 


The first important point in a 
successful dinner party is the 
table setting itself. It may be 


_very beautiful and distinguish- 


ed if carefully arranged. For 
a perfect formal dinner the 
tableware should be of solid sil- 


_ver, the pattern should be ap- 
| propriate in spirit of design, and 
the flat silver should match. In 


design and craftsmanship the 


| D’Orleans pattern conveys a 


richness and air of luxury that 
are particularly to be desired in 
the table laid for a formal 
dinner. 


The table illustrated shows the 


_maximum amount of flat silver 
_needed and the lace which is 
'ofttimes used today instead of 
}a cloth 





A flower bowl in the centre may 
be supplemented by a smaller 
one on either side holding 
candy, if the size of the table 
permits. These, plus four 
candles, or two high branched 
candelabras, are all that is 
needed, except the high peppers 
and open salts, placed at con- 
venient intervals. 


D’ORLEANS 


In presenting the D’Orleans 
pattern of Solid Silver 
(Sterling) the Towle crafts- 
men have re-created the art 
of Phillippe D’Orleans, who, 
it is said, “crowned with 
renewed glory the magnifi- 
cence of Louis XIV.” This 
pattern, so delicately fash- 
ioned, succeeds in achieving 
an air of harmonious luxury. 




















The La Fayette pattern 
by Towle, used for the 
after-dinner coffee service 
will blend with any 
room but gives an added 
charm to the home of 
Colonial inspiration. The 
cups which accompany it 
might well lend an in- 
teresting note of colour 


The Art of Serving After-Dinner Coffee 


The coffee is usually served today 
in the drawing-room after the din- 
ner. It is brought in by the maid, 
or man servant, and passed to each 
guest individually, unless the 
hostess prefers to pour it herself, 
in which case it is placed on a low 
table near her and passed by the 
servant after it is poured. 


The modern hostess takes great 
pride in the beauty of her Solid 
Silver coffee service — which is 
natural, since coming as it does at 
the end of dinner and served in the 
delightful surroundings of the 
drawing-room, it should be both 
distinguished and beautiful. 


The tray holds nothing but the 
coffee-pot, a good sized sugar bowl, 
a generous cream pitcher, the cups 
and coffee spoons. While it is desir- 
able that the spoons should match 
the service it is by no means essen- 
tial, but their patterns should be 
harmonious. 


The service may follow the pattern 





LA FAYETTE 


This Towle pattern, the La Fayette, proves 
how really distinguished the simplest pattern 
of Solid Silver can be. 


of the other silver used or be quite 
distinct. Many hostesses prefer to 
have a coffee service that is indi- 
vidual and they frequently supple- 
ment this by colourful cups of great 
beauty which sometimes repeat a 
note of colour in the decorative 
scheme of the drawing-room. 


The La Fayette pattern is not only 
individual, but because of its 
extreme Colonial simplicity and 
beauty of line, is harmonious in all 
surroundings—dining room, draw- 
ing-room or music room. It is a 
design that will never grow old or 
become out of style, whatever the 
prevailing style fancy. 














| Th 
| inc 
| ent 
lig! 
| fre 
) van 

tha 


If t 
\ flov 
eith 
jor 
prin 
twer 
‘of f 

for 
| Ices 
‘later 


A ti rare ns SPN. 


Whe 


A recent innovation is to serve © supp 
after-dinner coffee at the table. In-> 


stead of repairing to an adjoining © 
room, the table is reset, finger bow]: 7 


are placed, plates for fruit, with” 
knife and fork, are at each cover. © 
The correctness of coffee-at-table ~ 
service is established by the fact | 
that women now-a-days join in the 7 
after-dinner cigarette. | 





In 
tha 








T 








ts 
id 
1] 


a 
or 


he 


ve 


ng 3 


vs 
ith 
er. 


ble 


acl 


September 15 











a 


3 





8 


4 
: 


i 
é 
s 

i" 
q 
4 


ee 


eit 





The charm of this table set for a buffet supper lies primarily in the silver itself, and in the pic- 
ture” presented by the arrangement and grouping of the silver and the dishes of food. The 





charming Colonial simplicity and decorative beauty of the historic Virginia Carvel pattern of 
Solid Silver, used in this setting, adds an appetizing appeal to the most delicious of foods 


The Popular Buffet Supper Table 


| The buffet supper or luncheon grows 
‘increasingly popular as a form of 


entertainment, due first, to its de- 
lightful informality, sociability, and 


| freedom from the necessity of ser- 


vants; second, to the delicious food 
that it offers. 


If the dining table is used, a bowl of 


) flowers is placed in the center and at 


either end are the two main platters, 
or silver dishes from which the 


| principal course is to be served. Be- 
) tween these are arranged the groups 
\ of flat silver and other silver dishes 
‘for sandwiches, rolls, nuts, olives. 


Ices and cakes are usually brought in 
later. 


When the buffet is utilized for the 


supper, the food is arranged in silver, 





VIRGINIA CARVEL 


Virginia Carvel Solid Silver preserves in 
its simple and classic lines the purity of 
early Colonial days. 


china and crystal dishes. Adjacent to 
them are grouped plates, napkins and 
the necessary flat silver, consisting of 
knives and forks for the main course, 
and whatever other pieces the menu 
demands. 








In selecting a Towle pattern in Solid Silver, the hostess or bride has the comforting assurance 
that at any time, years hence, she will be able to secure additional pieces to match her set 











a? W LE 


SOLID 


23 


ee 
e . = gal 


EB 





















































VIRGINIA CARVEL 
Dessert Spoon and Fork. 


ok... Vv. BB 











VOGUE 


ordon 
HOSIERY 


For such gala occasions as 
masquerades and fancy dress 
balls, hosiery is perhaps one 
of the most important ac- 
cessories to the costume. It 
must harmonize with the 
gay colors worn by the 
dancer, and impart the con- 
fidence that comes from 
knowing it will stand the 
strain. 

Gordon Hosiery comes in 
all shades and colors, and its 
dependable quality has been 
attested to many times over 
by millions of wearers for 
more than half a century. 

Made according to the 
most rigid specifications 
Gordon Hosiery is known 
for its long wearing quali- 
ties and it never fails to give 
lasting satisfaction. 





Being safe and being sure 











Gordon Hosiery may be had in all the wanted colors in 
Silk, Wool, Lisle and Cotton for men, women and chil- 
dren at nearly all good stores where hosiery is sold. It is 
often costly to buy “just any stocking.” To get the best 
and achieve economy, always ask for Gordon by name. 





>. Ah 


{ Established 1872 ; 











BROWN DURRELL COMPANY 
GordonHiosiery - Forest Mills Underwear 


New York Boston 














ten Hoa 


a 


Tima id? sania 





Child’s frock in Mi 








The garments shown in this picture are.all made of Fast Color Indian Head. The boy 
on the left has on a Paul Jones suit made by Morris & Co. The girl is shown in a 
charming little frock by Fitchburg Garment Company. The two central figures are 
wearing a silver Fast Color Indian Head gown made by Forest City Mfg. Co. and a 
Rose L’Aiglon dress bewitchingly embroidered in a darker shade—Bibermann Bros., Inc. 


These Frocks will Never Fade 





mosa Yellow Indian 
Head — O’Gorman, Wade & Powers 
Co. Also made in other colors. 





The original charm and style of the garment are not lost after 
a few days if the fabric is Fast Color Indian Head. Its color 
is not dulled, nor do the contrasting bands or other trimming 
become over-run by the dye in the material. All Fast Color 
Indian Head is absolutely fast. 

You can now buy attractive frocks for yourself and the 
girls, shirts for your husband and the boys, ready-made of 
this sturdy, fashionable fabric. Those garments that are in- 
sured by our money-back guarantee can always be identified 
by the woven label, “Indian Head.” 


Indian Head is practical, becoming, and has the air of smart 
simplicity that always attracts. It is the right weight for in- 
door wear all the year for all the family; for sister in school, 
mother at her home-making tasks, and brother beginning 
his years of learning at kindergarten. 

If you prefer to buy Indian Head by the yard, look for 
the name “Indian Head” on the selvage — 18 colors, 36 inches 
wide, price 60c a yard; 7 widths 18 to 63 inches in white, 
price 25c to goc. 

Why blue-eyed persons should wear blue, and why others 
should bring out the bright lights in their hair is told in 
“Your Color and Why.” We send it free upon request. 





A B ¢ Dept. 133 Box 1206 
mMmory, Orowpye & LO. Boston, Massachusetts 


% 
Pe, 
a 
é 
= 
Pr 
q 
S 
= 
2 
e 





We Guarantee every garment or other article bearing the Indian Head 
Label to give perfect satisfaction as to fast colors, workmanship, and finish. 
If not, we will refund the total cost of the garment. 














pepe SSS SSS SSS SS SSS SSS SSDS OSS SS SoS SSS SOON 

' ' 

' MADE OF 

‘ j 

' a LS au = 2 8» 6 8 8 BSB 4 Sp, ‘ 

‘ 5 a ahs =m mas S ; ? 

: . H = @e 20 HH can gen 28 Fy Garment Co., in a wide range of colors. 

: es Se eeaue%e 8s #284 © 

' ie a BS ‘Ss 8 8 Boe Gs 

: c . & PB. A 

' 

B & Co., 
: ° ap ey New. York . 






























































UNDE 


For Women and Children—and Trxy Tors for Infants 





Hell 


“Oh, it’s all right, Marie, if it’s Athena!” 


You can enjoy this same satisfying 
certainty. Always choose Athena if 
you would delight in dainty fabric, 
unvarying perfection of fit—really 
uncommon comfort! Depend on 
Athena;andasseasonschange youhave 
but to decide on weight and fabric. 


Unlike ordinary underwear, all 
Athena garments are tailored in the 


CHICAGO 


“Adams, Quincy, 
Franklin and Wells 


making to follow the natural lines of 
the figure. The graceful neckline slopes 
to the front, the narrow back tapers 
in at the waist, shoulder straps cannot 
slip down, the fitted seat always stays 
closed. Yet Athena costs no more! 


Ask the saleswoman at the store in your community advertis- 
ing Athena, to show you its seven distinctive points of superi- 
ority. In all styles and weights, and in every knit fabric, in- 
cluding the daintiest of ay lapanese silk and a moderately 


priced combination of fibre silk and the pure Japanese. 


MARSHALL FIELD & COMPANY 


Manufacturers and Wholesale Distributers of Standard Merchandise 








Note this Difference 





Shape of Shapelessness 
Athena of Ordinary 


Underwear Underwear 








NEW YORK 


Broadway at 
24th Street 








2 








ae ee 


EOL thie Pet el Nn ale os 




















YOUTH IS BEAUTY-YOUTH IS STYLE 


FTER all, beauty is a matter of en- 
semble, and the impression created by 
it. And beauty is more than clothes- 
deep. The woman who gives the effect 
of youth in gently, softly flowing lines, 
in grace of carriage, ease of movement, causes 
beauty’s fair sensation. That is why devotion 
to becoming a bit nicer to look at, devotion 
to youthful corsetry, so attracts. 


The P. N. Practical Front is made for you 
who have the vital personality to rise above 
Time’s influence on your sex. You who have 
the will to retain the youth of line poets 















praise as so ‘‘divine.”” You who know that 
youth lives by forgetting age. 


The Custom Corseted Look. 


The patented, exclusive Inner Elastic Vest 
will retain your individuality, preserve your 
lines and give you a fresh fitting daily. Your 
figure adapts itself to all that’s new and 
varied in the season’s models. A touch here 
and a slight yield there and the style becomes 
your style. Models for every figure, $5 
upwards to $12. Write for new booklet, 
‘“‘The Mirrors of Youth and Beauty.” 





PAT-U-S‘A AND FOREIGN COUNTRIES 


CORSETS 


I. NEWMAN & SONS, INC. 


Fourth Avenue & 18th St. 


New York 











Mon Cheri Extrait 





Fleur du Jour and 
Mon Cheri extraits 
come in 1 and 2 oz. 


Fleur du Jour Extrait 





The Mon Cheri and 
Fleur du Jour odeurs 
will be found in the 


sizes, but the 2% oz. extrait, poudre de riz 
de luxe sizes illus- (all shades), eau de 
. trated here retail for toilette, brillantine, 
w——— $12.50. savon, sachet, poudre 
de talc, and co npactes. 








HERE is a Chinese proverb which says that the whispering 

of lovers, the memories of childhood and the sound-of 
distant violins, may be combined in two drops of perfume. A 
poetic thought, made concrete and real in thousands of lovely 
phials which contain the perfumes of Madame Gabilla. For 
thirty years Madame Gabilla, the only woman in Paris making 
perfumes, has succeeded in capturing the wisdom of the old 
proverb and giving it to the women of the world. 


GABILLA is unique in that her perfumes and powders, as well as their 
truly Parisian containers, are actually produced and assembled in France. 


Distributors forthe U.S.A. 
EVERETT-GOULD, Inc. 
116 W.39thSt., NewYork 


Les ParfumsdeGabilla may 
be purchased at the majority 
of toilet goods counters 


Mon Cheri . > > i é ee” TS ° /S e Fleur du Jour 
Poudre de Riz = o> ; ag Poudre de Riz 
$1.50 : . Se — $1.50 
: ‘ ” “ PT as F 

Gast 
pais 














WRB TOT i ba evs aie, wien as 3° 





liad 











Sep 








Le iacjat ca aii lanag i 


ipo tinea es 


Sides 


Neate TS 














September 15 






Claire Belle Dress of PENIKEES BENGALINE 
designed by Carl Bonwit 
































Made in One Good 
Uniform Grade Only 


. Newest shades, always 
. Pure thread silk body. 


. Free from heavy and light 
places. 

. No “loading” to give arti- 
ficial weight. 


. Pure silk reinforcement for 
sole and above heel. 


. Reinforced heels and toes. 
. Tops, elastic lisle, doubled. 
. Garter-run stop. 

. Extra length. 

. Snug-fitting ankles and feet. 
. Knit, not stretched to size. 
. Fit is permanent. 

. All colors fadeless. 


. Knit in three styles to fit 
all figures. 




















Rippin’ Mad 


DROPPED stitch in your 
silk stocking! Wrath in 
your heart! 


Avoid those wretched “runners” 
that scuttle ahead of your needle 
and thread like a flash. Try Hum- 
_ming Bird Pure Silk Hose. Pure 
silk, free of metallic“loading,’’ has 
truly marvelous strength. Pure 
dyes preserve the fabric. Double 


lisle tops discourage “runners” 
and a garter-run-stop halts them 
before they slip below the knee. 


Fine textured, silk-soled, snug- 
fitting Humming Bird Hose, in 
forty fascinating shades, suit any 
costume or any occasion. Mod- 
erately priced. Sold only in reli- 
able stores—never by “house-to- 
house” canvassers. 


READ “THE STORY OF A PAIR OF SILK STOCKINGS.” Not advertising 


material, but a real text book used in many schools. Free copy on request. 


DAVENPORT HOSIERY MILLS - CHATTANOOGA, TENN 
New York Office: 200 Fifth Avenue 


umming Bird 


PURE SILK HOSIERY 


WEARS LONGER 








pte 

















® 1924 BY D.H.M. 





—s(> 





a. 














SS 





G 707 





ptember 15 . pe 























FRENCH STYLES AND FABRICS IN 
HART SCHAFFNER & MARX 
COATS FOR WOMEN 


The styles have the sparkle, the dash, the warmth of Paris The fabrics 
are silky velour cloths, Jacquard velvets, soft suede finished woolens- 
some delicately patterned with stirring wintry shades in cloisonne 
designs, flowing sea wave effects, brocaded flowers, oriental traceries 
You'll see countless original ideas 
Send for the Style Book It displays a variety of striking coats for 
all occasions—many of them lavishly furred at collar, cuff and hem 


\RT SCHAFFNER & MARX 


New York 
































Garments designed by Printz carry 
with them definite assurance of ex- 
clusiveness, for you will find Printzess 
models at only one store in your city. 


As that store is usually the best, it is 
always easy to locate. 








































































| COATS ° SUITS > DRESSES 


The new Fall Modes designed by Printz can now 

be seen in your city. 

You are assured of courteous attention in the 
NG Garment Departments of all merchants display- 

b: ing these latest style creations. 


Miss Printzess models, too, for the shorter woman 





ASE YA AAR NE at ily Gaia 







AK who wants the same smart style. The Printz 
o> x 
J Biederman Co., New York and Cleveland. 
Printzess Coats - - - - - - $35 to $195 
AJ Printzess Suits - - - - - - $45to$ 85 
{\ ; Printzess Dresses - - - - +» $35to$ 65 





|W xrinizess | 
ED BY 


Agere 


ESIGNED AND TAILOR 






The Printzess Label in 
your coat, suit, or dress 
isa guarantee of quality 
and the identification 
of a smart garment. 








Meee AN 






svovenenennnnnvnnnmnneennv0ureen toners 11/0/0117 





- LE my OO, LO LO LO 


ah ce ae 
an 





LEON LD MO > - LN LE LEE +3 





E®eptember 15 
































Modish Gloves for the Fall Tailleur 


Correctly gloved women will, this 
Fall, wear cape, buckskin, mocha 
or degrain gloves of outseam con- 
struction — loose-fitting, tailored 
models that are unquestionably 
preferred for utmost style, com- 
fort and service. 


These styles, made in one-button 
or clasp, slip-on, strap or shirred 
wrists, called “Manlee Models,” 
are specially in favor for wear with 
tailored suits and frocks. Obtain- 
able in all the newest colors and 
finishes. 


Your favorite shop is now showing appealing 
styles of hand apparel for men and women. 


Glo 


Sponsored by THE GLOVE INDUSTRY, 395 Broadway, New York, N. Y. 


Any Event- 


MARK 


ves 


e. . =e ‘ST ~N< ~ SS Nay’ * a * So eT Se oS Sew Sa SO Ne” SS P CS 


MM 





pe a ge a gk 


/ 


< 




















30 





a 





SEE Seder eT EN 






















(Betty Wales 


announcing 


Cae world that listens with attentive ears to 
the Fashion dictates from Paris will be aston- 
ished and delighted with the pleasurable pro- 
gram announced by Betty Wales. +» Twelve 
numbers, in perfect harmony, as only Betty 
Wales can render them. Each number sounds 
a definite Parisian Style note. All are attuned 
perfectly to the requirements of the school 
girl, the girl in businessand the mature woman 
who loves the melody of youth. e~» Made 
in beautiful wool weaves, including hair line 
stripes, and pitched extremely low in the scale 


of prices. 
, LS . 
/ 


Sizes 14 to 44 


These wonderful dresses, matchless in style 
and value, are now being sold by all Betty 
Wales dealers. If there is no Betty Wales 
dealer in your town write direct to us. 


(Betty Wales Dressmakers- 


Betty Wales Building : Department V - New York City 

















ore Ee a AS SR AN SN SE OPRE LD LE LLCO MOBI MA SOLED BEET ES RRR SA ROT eT . 


PPB LEA LES LLL AISLE NEEL ALOE BOREE., ELE LEP EEE SEER BERL BILLER EEE 























— 


confo 
comp! 
crect, 
You | 
put it 

An 
sit, y 
never 
this a 
ing tl 
ute, n 
muscl 
saging 
by mi 
It is 
self-m 
keeps 
ing, c 
not m 
elsewl 
Mada: 
new | 
heat” 
signed 


New 





MADA 
BRAS: 
The M. 
Reducing 
Siere als 
rubber a 
on new 
of “an 

Mas si 


























i How The Madame X Girdle 
Quickly Reduces 


| Waist and Hips 


d 
4 
u 


September 15 


Based upon a remarkable new principle of “unconscious massage” that 
smooths away the fat with every natural move. A scientific triumph— 
takes off 3 to 10 inches easily, comfortably. Thousands have already 
achieved slim, boyish lines through this amazing girdle 


THE ideal way to reduce at last 
—comfortable, healthful, quick! 
Here is a light, flexible girdle 
that you slip into in a jiffy, that 
you wear as a corset. It patterns 
itself snugly against the figure, 
conforming to your lines, neither binding nor 
compressing. But it holds your figure firm and 
erect, keeps your lines smooth and slim-looking. 
You actually look more slender the moment you 
put it on. 


been known before. There have been girdles that 
pressed away the fat to some other part of the body, 
or torturously melted a pound or so away—but the 
Madame X Girdle actually massages: the fat dway as 
though a pair of magic rubber hands were doing the 
work | 
This new method of fat control does away forever 
with hot, tiring exercises, unsatisfying diets, costly 
and wearisome massage treatments. The Madame X 
Girdle offers for the first time a method of reducing 
that makes you look thin while getting thin, that is 
simple and natural, that is healthful and pleasant. The 
live rubber used is the very same kind prescribed by 
famous athletic coaches and health 
authorities for reducing purposes. 





And you walk, you breathe, you 
sit, you climb stairs, you bend— 
never for a moment conscious of 
this astonishing girdle but know- 
ing that it is at work every min- 
ute, meeting every move of your 
muscles and tissues, gently mas- 
saging, gently kneading—minute 
by minute moulding the fat away! 
It is a wonderful new.-form of 
self-massage, healthful because it 
keeps the pores open and breath- 
ing, comfortable because it does 
not melt away the fat or press it 
elsewhere, quick because the 
Madame X Girdle is made of a 
new kind of live rubber, “dry- 
heat” cured, and specially de- 
signed for reducing purposes. 


in the waist. 


the _ girdle 


New discovery “Uncon- 
scious Massage” 


The Madame X am 39. My 
Reducing Girdle is 
worn over a vest 
so that no rubber 


touches the skin. 


are now 49 





What They Say 


These excerpts are from 
just a few of the thousands 
of letters we have received 
from delighted users. The 
original letters in our files 
may be seen at any time by 
anyone interested. 


“T think the reducing girdle 
is fine. I reduced 7 inches in 
hips and thighs and 5 inches 


(Miss) Ella Corby, 
425 North Main St., 
Norwich, Conn. 


“I have reduced my waist 
to 29 inches from 36. I wear 
all day and 
wouldn’t be without it. 


Mrs. E. G. Danueka, 
3140 California St., 
Berkely, Calif. 


“The Madame X is too 
wonderful for words. 
51 around the waist—now I 
hips were 66 
before using the girdle and 


Mrs. Vida Sheidler, 
146 West Sinonton St., 
Elkhart, Ind. 


Special Features 


The Madame X Girdle is so flexible 
and comfortable, yet it gives won- 
derful support to the back and sides, 
conceals big hips, waist and abdomen 
at ‘once, gives straight smooth lines. 
Thousands of women who do not 
need to reduce wear it for comfort 
only, especially women who are 
active. And women who wear it 
would never go back to the old- 
fashioned corset. 


The Madame X Re- 
ducing Girdle is spe- 
cially designed with a 
hand-turned hem _ that 
prevents splitting or 
tearing. It is fitted with 
garters that are properly 
adjusted for comfort; 
and the back lacing 
makes it possible to ad- 
just the girdle to your 
figure as you become 
daiiy more slender. The 
special open front in- 
sures perfect comfort 
while you sit or work. 
And the girdle is made 
so that it cannot slip up 


I was 














or down. 





But through your 
undergarment the 
live rubber holds the flesh firm with 
a sort of suction, massaging easily 
against it with every little move you 
make. It is this constant “uncon- 
scious massage” that quickly takes 
3 to 10 inches from the waist, hips 
and thighs—sometimes two inches 
or so the very first week. And it is 
the free, live, uncovered rubber that 
produces the amazing “unconscious 
massage.” 


Note in the illustration how the 





MADAME X 
BRASSIERE 
The Madame x dle comes down well over the 
Reducing Bras- thighs and reduces them as well as 
siere also of live the hips—one of the unusual fea- 


rubber and based 

on new principle 

of “uncon-cious 
massage,”? 


tures of the Madame X. 


No reducing method quite like the 
Madame X Reducing Girdle has ever 


On Sale at All Leading Stores Where Corsets Are Sold 


ladame 


Makes You Look Thin 


WESTERN DISTRIBUTORS: I. NEWMAN & SONS INC., CHICAGO 


Insist upon the Madame X Girdle 
Nothing Else Like It 


Do not confuse the Madame X Reducing Girdle with 
imitations that may look fine when new, but are not 
made of live rubber which produces ‘unconscious 
massage”’ and lack resiliency so that they quickly lose 
their shape and usefulness. Remember ,that there is 
no other girdle “just as good’ as the Madame X 
which is the original reducing girdle. It was designea 
by experts of many years experience and is made of 
special rubber. So tremendous has the demand for 
this marvelous girdle become that one of the biggest 
stores in New York has been obliged to open a special 
Madame X Department. 

Try on the Madame X Girdle today. Look for the 
name on the box—and stamped on the girdle! 

Send for free 24 page booklet, ‘“‘The New Health- 
ful Way to Reduce” which explains in detail the new 
discovery that does away with old-fashioned methods of 
reducing. Address Dept. G-1109. 


MADAME X COMPANY, INC. 
410 Fourth Avenue New York City 











Keducing 


. While Getting Thin 


CANADIAN DISTRIBUTORS: DOMINION CORSET COMPANY LTD., QUEBEC. 




















Girdle 





New hand-turned hem 
_ absolutely prevents 
splitting or tearing 


31 
























































VOGUE 


oe) 
to 


WEAR / 
WEAR / 

WEAR / 
Thats what Kayser | 


hosiery does 











ree nce eRe 








sick 








Slipper Heel— slenderizes ankles ; 



































S vecaicoa. itasheih 


















Every new feature— 





Marvel-Stripe— stops laddering- 


ay / / and then, also, those with sandal 
eee so ae feet and low spliced heel. 


$1.50 per pair and up. 











FULL-FASHIONED THREAD SILK HOSIERY 


; 33 
September 15 





Designed by 
LUCILE Staff 
in “DRONGO” 


ashes 





Sep cmt. 


_ She tnportant 
| for Pes 





SY 
= 


Consider well the fabric of your new Coat. 
It is the most important part of dress. It 
should be correct, novel, charming and 
practical withal. 


These new fabrics look beautiful and wear 
well. They are endorsed and preferred by 
important designers and discriminating 
wearers. Your store will show you a col- 
lection greatly varied in pattern and color. 


BE SURE YOU SEE THEM. 








F, A. BOCHMANN & CO., Inc. 
254 Fourth Avenue, New York 








34 VOGUE | 


i aN MEINE » , 


oie eae ee 









Diamond Brand (Visible) Fast 
Color Eyelets have celluloid 
tops which retain their original 
finish indefinitely and actually 
outwear the shoe. Only the gen- 
uine fast color eyelets have the 
Diamonds. 


LOOK FOR THE DIAMOND 
TRADE @® MARK 








To be correct in every detail, Goodyear Welt lace oxfords should be finished with visible eyelets. 
Ask for Shoes with visible eyelets. 


UNITED FAST COLOR EYELET COMPANY 


Manufacturers of 


DIAMOND BRAND (VISIBLE) FAST COLOR EYELETS | 








VE 





ROIS Satan 3 Sk.AK 


AINE R as 


i Ae AS AR 


Pe ee oe 











September 15 


Coo 


wt 


DALBY SILKNIT UNDERWEAR 


Paris couturiers are of one mind with Tennyson. So, ‘‘straight 
and lissome as the hazel wand’’ is the fashionable new 
figure. And here is lovely new underwear to preserve 
that lissome slenderness beneath the fashionable new frock. 









































HADES G1 those dimand distant days when the Duchess wore 
three stiffly starched cambric petticoats under her beruffled 
gown! To-day, she who would be in the mode wears Dalby 
Silknits They're soft, clinging, and delightfully luxurious as 
underwear has never been before—yet they last almost for- 
ever, you will think. That is because they are knitted of the 
purest silk, and by a special process which not only insures 
fineness and perfection of texture, but also great durability. 
Dalby Silknit vests, bloomers and step-ins, in white, black 
and pastel shades at the better stores. Thomas Dalby Company 


Watertown, Mass 


Sold at the following stores : 


ALABAMA Orange - - - - - W. G. Neely Co. 
Seem L. Hammel Dry Goods Co. ace ---- bem ny Corp. 
¢ lorterville - - - Minister's, Inc. 
‘ ARKANGAS Sacramento - - - Hale Bros., Inc. 
Fort Smith - - - Wolf, Pollock Dry Goods Co. C2 ae eee Porter & Irvine 
Little Rock - - - Walter A. Marx Co. San Diego - - - - The Marston Co. 
CALIFORNIA San Francisco - - City of Paris Dry Goods Co. 
Covina - - - -- W. B. Broadwell Co Gantner & Mattern Co. 
Fresno - - - - - Cooper's, Inc. Raphael Weill & Co., Inc. 
Long Beach - - - Buffum’s San Luis Obispo - Charles E. Foxen & Co. 
Los Angeles - - - J. W. Robinson Co Santa Barbara - - H.R. Hitchcock Co. 


Santa Monica - - The Kelly Co. 

Visalia - - - - - Model Dry Goods Co. 
CONNECTICUT 

Hartford - - - - Sage, Allen & Co. 

New Britain - - Davidson & Leventhal 

New Haven - - - A. Loewy 

Waterbury - - - Sugenheimer Bros. 

DELAWARE 


Wilmingtos 


- - Smith-Zollinger Co. 


DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA 
Washington - - - Julius Garfinckel Co. 
Lansburgh & Bro. 


FLORIDA 
Pensacola - - - + Watson, Parker & Reese Co. 
Tampa ----- O. Falk’s Dept. Store 
ILLINOIS 
Aurora ----- S. S. Sencenbaugh Co. 
Champaign - - - Your Shop 
Chicago - - - = Carson, Pirie Scott & Co. 
Evanston - - - - Lord's 
Galesburg - - - - Kellogg, Drake & Co. 
INDIANA 
Elkhart - - - - - E. N. Sykes 
Evansville - - - Fowler, Dick & Walker 
South Bend - - - Robertson Bros. Co. 
KENTUCKY 
‘Ashland - - - - C. H. Parsons Co., Inc. 
Lexington - - - A. M. Caden 
MARYLAND 
Baltimore - - - - Hochschild, Kohn & Co. 
The Hub 
Hutzler Bros. Co. 
MASSACHUSETTS 


Boston - + + + + Conrad's 
Jordan Marsh Co. 
Newcomb Thornton Corser 
Shop 
R. H. Stearns Co. 
R. H. White Co. 


Holyoke - - - - McAuslan-Wakelin Co., Inc. 

Lowell - - - - - Bon Marche Dry Goods Co. 

Malden - - - - - Gordon Shaw 

Needham - - - - Betty Gray Shoppe 

Newburyport - - Bon Marche 

Salem ----- Almy, Bigelow & Washburn, 

Inc. 

Worcester - - - - C. T. Sherer Co, 
MICHIGAN 

Flint - ----- Herbert N. Bush 

Grand Rapids - - Paul Steketee & Sons 

Jackson - - - - - The Alderman Co. 
MINNESOTA 

St. Paul - - - - - The Golden Rule 
NEBRASKA 

Omaha - - - - - Thomas Kilpatrick Co. 
NEW JERSEY 

East Orange - - - R. H Muir, Inc. 

Newark - - - - Hahne & Co. 

Oppenheim, Collins & Co. 

NEW YORK 

Albany - - - - JohnG. Myers Co. 

Waldman Bros. 

Amsterdam - - - Holzheimer & Shaul 

Brooklyn - - - - Oppenheim, Collics & Co. 

Buffalo - - - - - Oppenheim, Collins & Co. 


Gloversville ¢ - - Martin & Naylor Co. 
New York City - Franklin, Simon & Co. 
Hearn's 
Lord & Taylor 
Oppenheim, Collins & Co, 


Schenectady - - - H.S. Barney Co. 

Troy ------ The Gay Co. 

Utica - ----- John Roberts Co. 
NORTH CAROLINA 

Burlington - - - J.D. & L. B. Whitted 

Durham - - - - The Kronheimer Co. 

Greensboro - - - Fraser's Style Shop 


Rocky Mount - - Belk Daughtridge Co. 
Rosenblum & Levy 
Winston-Salem ~- D.G. Craven Co. 


OHIO 
Cleveland - - - - Oppenheim, Collins & Co, 
OKLAHOMA 
Tulsa ------ Hunt Department Store 
PENNSYLVANIA 
Harrisburg - - - Pomeroy’s, Inc. 


Philadelphia - - B. F. Dewees 
Oppenheim, Collins & Co. 
J. B. Sheppard & Sons Co 
Pittsburgh - - - Kaufman Dept. Stores 
Oppenheim, Collins & Co. 
Wilkes-Barre - - Fowler, Dick & Walker 
York ------ Bon Ton 
RHODE ISLAND 
Providence - - - Callender, McAuslin & 
Troup Co. 
Gladding Dry Goods Co. 
The Shepard Stores 
Woonsocket - - - Goodnow, Morse, Brooks Co 
SOUTH CAROLINA 
Charleston - - - Kerrison Dry Goods Co. 
Columbia - - - - J. L. Mimnaugh & Co. 
Greenwood - - - Beaudrot — Shop 
Spartanburg - - - Greenewald’s, Inc. 
TENNESSEE 
Chattanooga - - Schwartz Bros. 
Memphis - - - - J. Goldsmith & Sons 


Nashville - - - - H.J. Grimes Co. 
TEXAS 
San Antonio - = Joske Bros, 
VERMONT 


Brattleboro - - - J. F. Austin 
Goodnow-Pearson-Hunt Ce. 


VIRGINIA 
Petersburg - - - Rucker Dry Goods Co. 
Portsmouth - - Phillips-Adams Co., Inc. 
Richmond - - - Miller & Rhoads 

WEST VIRGINIA 

Charleston - - - Cox Dept. Store Co. 
Wheeling - - - L.S, Good & Co. 

WISCONSIN 


Milwaukee - - - The Herzfeld, Phillipson Co. 


















years of Vogue $7 


id 


Every Two Weeks 
you get a 
new number of 


VOGUE 


Forecast of Autumn 
Fashions and Millinery 
(this is the first number vou receive) 

What Paris is whispering behind its hand, 
and wearing on its pretty head. 
Early Paris Openings Oct. 1 
The first authentic creations; the new 
silhouette. 
Paris Fashions Oct. 15 
The full pageant of the winter mode— 
adaptation, improvisation, miracle! 
New York Winter Fashions Nov. 1 
What New York wears on the Avenue, 
at home, and at the opera. 


Sept. 15 


Vanity Number Nov. 15 
Coiffures, complexions, accessories— 

Vogue in thistledown! 

Christmas Gifts Dec. 1 
What to give to everybody. 

Holiday Number Dec. 15 


Last-minute gifts,the tree,the table,clothes. 


Midwinter Travel 2 Jan. 1 
Southern beaches, winter sports, foreign 
holidays. 


Southern Fashions and Motors Jan. 15 

The wardrobe for the southern season; 
clothes delightful forthe north; motor shows. 
Spring Fabrics and Designs Feb. 1 

The very newest fabrics and working 
models for spring and summer wardrobes. 
Spring Forecast Feb. 15 

Earliest authentic news of spring styles, 
fully illustrated by Paris models. 
Spring Millinery 


The smartest hats from Paris. The 
cleverest hats from New York. 
Spring Shopping Mar. 15 


A review of the mode as shown in America. 
Early Paris Openings and Brides Apr. 1 

A lovely number planned for the more 
formal occasions. 

Paris Fashions Apr. 15 
The latest news from the “Openings.” 
N. Y. Fashions May 1 

The most characteristic things that New 
York creates for its exclusive clientele. 
Smart Fashions May 15 

{‘irst aid to the fashionable woman of not 
unlimited means. 

Summer Fashions June | 

Summer clothes are fascinating. Vogue 
knows. Shows. Buys. 

Summer Travel June 15 

Where to go, where to stop, what to wear. 
Vogue’s Travel Bureau in the background. 
Hot Weather Fashions July 1 

How to be cool, though decorative. 

N. Y. in Summer July 15 

The world’s largest summer resort—its 
hotels, shows, dances and clothes. 
Interior Decoration Aug. 1 

How to provide. a suitable background for 
vourself and your clothes. 

Fashions for Children Aug. 15 

Every year children’s fashions grow 
quainter and sweeter. Vogue shows the best. 
Autumn Fabrics and Designs Sept. 1 

Cinderella’s own number, where brains 
(and Vogue) outwit mere millions 


for $7 
you get all these issues 


twice over 


a special offer 


good for a limited time only 


regular price $5 a year 


48 


Glimpses of Paris 
Strolls down Fifth Avenue 
Scenes from the Shops 


Portfolios of Vogue’s Own Designs 


Reviews of the New Plays 


Leaves from the Hostess’ Diary 


Articles from the Man about Town 
Editorials on the Changing Mode 


48 


The features given above are in every number. 
To the left is a list of the names of the 24 
yearly issues of Vogue, each name a key to 
the individual slant it takes on the mode. 


Look over this list. 


And ask yourself, not 


whether you’d miss them if you didn’t see 
them, but whether the missing wouldn’t be 


quite too much to be borne. . . . 


This Special Offer of TWO YEARS (48 issues) 
of Vogue for $7 is good only for a limited 


period. Sign 


and mail the coupon now. 


You 


will receive the Early Paris Openings Num- 
ber of Vogue at once. 


Act now! 


You Also Get 


the special 
personal services of 


VOGUE 


TRAVEL: Without doubt, Vogue’s 
travel service is the most complete in 
the world. It makes itineraries, gives 
introductions, makes reservations, 
buys tickets, advises on the proper 
clothes and luggage, and maintains 
offices in Paris and London which 
give personal attention to the prob- 
lems of the American abroad. Its 
services are absolutely free. 


SCHOOLS: If you can’t decide to 
what school to send Jack or Jill in 
the winter—or to what camp in the 
summer—Vogue’s School Bureau 
will give personal attention to your 
personal problems. This service is 
absolutely free. 


SHOPPING: The experts of Vogue 
know the markets of the world. 
They choose the finest offerings at 
the most reasonable prices and show 
them in the pages of Vogue. The 
prices will guide you in buying your 
own wardrobe. Most of all, Vogue 
will buy for you if you live out of 
town. Lastly, our offices in Paris and 
London will buy for you in those 
capitals, or will accompany you on 
your own shopping tour. 


INFORMATION: Vogue main- 
tains an information bureau which 
answers thousands of inquiries every 
year. It is the acknowledged court 
of authority for questions on eti- 
quette, entertaining, clothes, beauty, 
etc. There is no fee. 


PATTERNS: Vogue’s designs for 
the seamstress are the standard of 
fine pattern making. They are de- 
signed by experts; and manufactured 
with a view to the greatest ease in 
using them. They are on sale in 
leading stores everywhere, or can be 


bought by mail. Forty cents; sixty- 


five cents; one dollar, 
no charge 
is made for services 


except shopping 


Sign ---tear off --- and mail the coupon 


Vogue, Greenwich, Conn. 


Enc'osed find $7.00, for w'ich send me TWO YEARS (48 issues) of Vogue. 
Enclosed find $5.00 for ONE YEAR (2. issues) of Vogue. 


Fe V. 9-15-24 


® 
(OR) 


Bought singly, at 35 cents a copy, these 48 issues 
would cost you $16.80. Through this special offer 
you get them for $7. A saving of $9.80 or 21c a copy 


| 





VOGUE 


SS===>=|>|S==_ 








ke 
hy 


D £02 


"tea 
ANS 
eaingeeS 








wh 





CS 


BES: 

























JE : September 15 


iH 





The 


SHOPS 


of VOGUE 

















: 
iW & 
in 





MILLINERY 
6 West 57th Street 


4 A step from Fifth Avenue NEW YORK 


The World’s Show Place 
_ of Fashion 





HATS, GOWNS, 
COATS and WRAPS 






Prices Never Excessive 


























When You Start Out 
With a Shopping List 
begin by visiting the distinguished shops 
which advertise in Vogue. Original ideas 
in gifts and decorations, exclusive or spe- 
cialized services, chic clothes for women 
of taste, for a critical and discriminating 
clientele—these and many more things 
you will find advertised in the pages of 
Vogue. You cannot do better than to visit 
the shops whose names appear in these 
pages. 
THE 
SHOPS OF 














cNANA-* 


CIMITED —-| 


ees 
Clothes 








24 EAST 66 


Mew York, 














/| 1IOW.SO™ST. 
NEW YORK 


From Paris 


Smart little Play Frocks 
Afternoon Dresses 
and 
exquisitely: fine 
Infants’ Apparel 


Lesigned, stitched and embroidered 
in Paris by French Needlewomen. 


Everything for Infants and 
Little Boys and Girls 
to 12 years. 
Imported Toys 
Lenci Dolls 
Portrait Dolls 




























pcr °° ce ume + em pune (Coen) e+ ein ses ame + cm am «cee on 085.8 


Custom MADE 


i 
| 
| 
| 
| 
| 
| 
| 
! 
i 
1 
| 
| 
| 
| 
i 


DEL MAN 


1 Shoe Salon. = 558 Madison Ne 


ReAby TO WEAR 


BE ae a a ee 


Ie ae —<- 























antha!lordenz 


(A Fast 55 Ny: 

































ae Wy Oh aT) ©. “te - “wy 
Oar vse 7 On Leones. BIST OES Ug 





cs) GF 
by 











"MAIDS' & NURSES’ ‘UNIFORMS 


Send for Catalog A 
9 a Poi. Sta i 


te 2873 











ty 


SRE FZ IOS es es: AER $3 a 












COLON BAG 


hand woven 
ot 
native fiber 
= in 
| brilliant colorings 
$350 —$500 
also 
MAGUEY 
SPORT BAGS 
hand woven 
as in 
brilliant colored stripes 
$2.50—$1.50—$1.00 




















New York 























4’ HILDA Sport SHOp 


561-5 Ave. s. Entrance on 46nSt 
ity 







































ES SE 


=o =, = 


38 


The SHOPS of VOGUE 


VOGUE 


ys 


















MOURNING 











OSSE 


INCORPORATED 


730 FIFTH AVE 
NEW YORK,NY. 

















CI2C 
AMl00eS 








Sef 


iL 














for 

Fall Weddings 
and 

All Social Events 


Visit our Shop, a veri- 

table flower show. 

Orders solicited for 

delivery to all parts 
of the world. 


Famous for Freshness 
























Miss Stickney 


Designs 
Smart Clothes 


fox fe Jeane ille 
and a “fille e ! 


Ch is desirable for 


out-of-town visitors to 
make an appointment 


NO CATALOGUE 














od AX - 
ailored 
Aristocrats | 
jak | | Dresses 
‘Dresses of in- i\ C d 
ported white tub Monogram style | Coats an 
crépe richly embroid- number 1 
ered in white, or 
black and white. $68 ~) T hree 
STRIKINGLY fir- Piece 
ure 8 scaris, e€X- 
= ag BVA , ; Costumes 
Dress. $25 to $85 aetna itis ™ p . f 
; . es ; : rices from 
Pure wnite two Fall Handkerchief Special 
piece Mohair Suits. $85 
$65 up Sheer linen handkerchiefs, with assorted tape borders, 
= SE handrolled edges, and hand embroidered monograms. 
Men’s: $21.00 a dozen, $10.75 a half dozen; 
Women’s, $15.00 a dozen, $7.75 a half dozen. 6 W 5 
th, ri as us ‘ 
19 fast.49 St Prices include monogramming and delivery charges. 2 EST 
mamma Ne. York: ae cur Yorky—— 
Choice Fall Flowers Oe ons a 
37D daw = 


414 Madison Avenue 
New Yo rk 


ANDIRONS 
for- 


Larde~ 
firep aces 


Originals and 


Poeproductions 


hooklet upon request 




















EOY’S PLAY SUIT— 


Tan gingham blouse, brown serge trousers, 
brown and tan striped heli - 
Sizes 3 to 8 yrs. ........ $10.00 
Extra Blouses: 

Plain blue, blue, laven- 
der, and green striped 
IE Dies csiininc ee ctvesl 
White linen ............ $5.00 
White tub silk .. $6.59 
Blue or brown serge 
1rousers ..............$5.50 










G34 Fifth Avenue 











| OPPOSITE CATHEDRAL 


NEW YORK 














Send for Illustrated Booklet show- 
ing Manuel's newest modes. The 
Measurement Chart provides for a 
perfect fit when you order by mail. 


ye cIOe- 
4 East 53rd St., New York Cit (HZ 17 wWEsT Adc 
“as r ., New Yor ity - 
LONDON PARIS a ts NEW YORK 
— Always Something Na] — 


Manuel’s 

‘‘Moderne”’ Wig 

or Transformation 
makes hairdressing simple and 
swift, and assures a coiffure be- 


comingly arranged for daytime 
and evening. 


Made of naturally curly hair 
exactly matching your own shade. 
Hair Goods Exclusively. 


NEW YORK 
29 East 48" Street 








New Models 


Exclusive Footwear 


CUSTOM MADE 
READY-TO-WEAR 


In all " 
color 
combinations 
Catalogue V. upon request 














is a 
mac 
quic 


lids, 
lau 
— 


“Jd 





september 15 39 


iy The SHOPS of VOGUE y 


tf Ny 
@» For The College Miss-- 


Here is a frock that ex- 
presses the Livingston 
Idea—modes_ fine im 
fashion and fabric—yet 
withal, moderately priced. 














1839 
1924 











The model illustrated is a 
Parisian idea smartly Amer- 
icanized by Skilled Craftsmen 
of the Vanity Boot Shop. 






In charmeen and faille 
silk. Belt of self-tone 
suede. Box pleated 
skirt has wide, plain 
panel in back. 








SS $15 
Black Suede Pat. Trim. ..16 
Brown Suede, Brown Kid 





A jaunty little frock. 
In navy, green, taffee, 
brown or henna with 
vestee of white or tan 
faille. 


Sizes 14-16-18. So 
reasonably priced at 
$39.50. 








For Tue Bripe-Eect 


Fh Po cae arranged by Dean’s, while pre- 
serving all the cherished traditions of 
| our mothers and grandmothers, at the same 
time insures, in every detail, the correct 
wedding customs of to-day. Particular atten- 
tion is directed to Bride’s Cakes, Wedding 
Boxes with Monograms, Place Cards, Favors, 
Bridal Candle Sticks, etc., etc. Successfully 
shipped anywhere, by parcel post or express. 










MAIL ORDERS FILLED 
Send for Illustrated Brochure 


WANIT i 
OT SHOP 


11 WEST 50th ST. 
New York City / New York 
1 & 






Soror 
ond And just one of the 
50 many delightful frocks 
~~ Livingston is now 
showing. 


















Illustrated price-list, “Wedding Requisites,” sent on request 











FULL CATERING SERVICE WITHIN 
REASONABLE DISTANCE OF NEW YORK 











Other 
Dean 


Catering 


Birthday Cakes 



































Cakes and Candies 628 Fifth Avenue New York 
Week-End Boxes : 
Bon Voyage Boxes Established 85 years 
Quinlan Vah-Dah Eye Cream / 
is a nourishing, astringent cream lhe the } 5 ae 
made of herb oils and eggs which — noms 
quickly corrects wrinkled eye- Graceful glides lend a 
eat -e Naheggy A gre mgt newenchantment to a 
ages ee, dark hollows an stunning slipper by Ben | 
— imcedoide’ | FRANK BROTHERS 
tae ae distinguished by crafts | 
wi irections tor . 7 ‘ 
m iven in the N manship alLits own./ts 
Ye ztion, “wficetor booklet the Ardmore pictured here | Fifth Avenue Boot Shop 
eee Pevets Toe. Mail Orders Filled—Send for Style Brochure Between 47th and 48th Streets, New York 











N Fifth G: 2313 BROADWAY - 73 WEST 50th ST. vegent Bu nvp 
665 ' — N.Y. C. | 


: New York | . 



































VOGUE’S BOOK 


aa Fine black pase in 
ETIQUETTE bowed and piped 
with Ciré Satin 


and trimmed with 
Feather-flower ap- 











The reasons for good _— | | Black Satin, Tan Calf or 

manners, and the $13.50 Brown Satin, $15 
les and customs Ask at 

a me £ Favorite Shop Black Calf, Patent Brown Kid, Gold 

which families o ~oF write t0 Leather or White or Silver Cloth, 





breeding and tradi- Satin, $14.50 $16 


tion observe today Ff 
in social intercourse. ( / My e | WASHINGTON. E x H ; B IT citcago 
530 pp. $4. Ua l ry bso Ids opp S H O P S Deng ne 
é r 
Order from H AT S RE CAEN. Ss Arcade Bullling PEPTERURGH 
VOGUE . 53 WEST 406° ST. 


21 W. 44St., New York City New York 
ws 


We have no agencies- Our Shoes are sold in our om Shops only 
















































No. 2057—An unusually smart frock of 
Crepe Satin pleated and embroidered 
in silk and beads, charmingly enhanced 
by a graceful scarf with same theme 


of embroidery. 


Albany, N. Y. 
Athens, Ga. 
Atlanta, Ga. 
Augusta, Ga. 
Austin, Texas 


Baton Rouge, La. 
Battle Creek, 
Mich 


Binghamton, N. Y. 


Birmingham, Ala. 


Bluefield, W. Va. 
Bristol, Tenn. 
Brooklyn, N. Y. 
Buffalo, N. Y. 


Butte, Mont. 
Cape Girardeau, 


Mo. 
Casper, Wyo. 


Charleston, a a. 


Charlotte, 
Chattanooga, 


Ten 
Chipans. Ill. 
Chillicothe, Ohio 
Cincinnati, Ohio 
Cleveland, Ohio 
Col. Springs, Col. 
Columbus, Ga. 
Columbus, Miss. 
Columbus, Ohio 


Dallas, Texas 
Danbury, Conn. 
Danville, Il. 
Danville, Ky. 
Dayton, Ohio 
Denton, Texas 
Denver, Col. 

Des Moines, Iowa 
Detroit, Mich. 
Dixon, Ill. 


Dubuque, Iowa 
Dunkirk, N. Y. 


Waldman Bros. 

Michael Bros. 

Keely Company 

J. Goldbert & Sons 

E. M. Searsborough & 


Sons 
S. 1. Reymond 
L. W. Robinson Co. 
Sisson Bros., Welden 


0. 
Burger-Phillips Co. 
The oy. Mdse. Co. 
The H. P. King Co. 
Fred’k Loeser & Co. 
Adam Meldrum & 

Anderson Co. 
Hennessy’s 


Buckner Ragsdale Clo. 
D. G. Co. 


Lindsay & Co. 
Coyle & Richardson 
G. B. Cabaniss & Co. 


Miller Bros. Co. 
At Your Katy Shop 
sory & nm le 

oo S. Pog 


Taylor Sons os ceuas 
Wilbur cl..&S$ 
J. Kirven oy 

. *G. Beard, Inc. 
Bradford Husch Co. 


Titche +; -—taed Co. 
McLean B 


McClurkan & Co. 
Ther Neusteter Co. 
Harris Emery Co 
Frank & Seder 
A. L. Geisenheimer & 


Co. 
J. F. Stampfer Co. 
T. W. Sidey Estate 


FRANKLIN SIMON ECO. 
in New York 


No. 2056—This 


Street Frock of Le 


Long’s Silk Bengaline is beautifully 
embroidered in silk and gold and the 
tassels lend a smart finishing touch. 
Colors—Black, Navy, Cocoa, Brown, 


Green & Rust. 


Three Princess Pat Dre 


created by artists for Women 


PRESENTED AT THESE 


Elmira, N. Y. 
Erwin, Tenn. 
Evergreen, Ala. 


Fargo 
Florence, Ala. 


Ft. Collins, Col. 
Fort Worth, Texas 
Fulton, Mo. 


Gainesville, Fla. 
Geneva, N. Y. 
oon ‘gnats 
Pe... al N. C. 
Greensburg, Pa. 
Greenville, S. C. 
Greenwood, Miss. 
Griffin, Ga. 


Hannibal, Mo. 
Holdrege, Neb. 
Hornell, N. Y. 
Hot Springs, Ark. 
Houston, Texas 
Huntsville, Ala. 


Ithaca, N. Y. 


Jackson, Miss. 
Johnstown, Pa. 
Jonesboro, Ark. 


Kalamazoo, Mich 
Kansas City, Mo. 
Keokuk, Iowa 
Knoxville, Tenn. 


Larange, Ga. 
Lancaster, Pa. 
La Salle, Ill. 
Lawrence, Mass. 
Lincoln, Neb. 
Los Angeles, Cal. 


Louisville, Ky. 


MM: BD. 
Fayetteville, N. C. 


Sizes 16 to 44. 


S. F. tszard Co. 
Ewald & Co., Inc. 
I. Long & Sons 


A. L. Moody 
Fleishman Bros. Co. 


Tompkins Christian 
Alexander 
Wilson Co. 
Hickey-Kane Co. 
Friedman Spring 
D. G. Co. 
Cabaniss, Inc. 
A. E. Troutman Co. 
Gotaetes Gardner Co. 
Goodman D. G. Co. 
Sirickiand Crouch Co. 


The Famous 
The F. Johnson Co. 
Adam Davidson & Co. 





S. S. Thompson 
Rothschild Bros. 


Downing Locke Co. 
Schwartz Bros. 
J. Grossman 


J. R. Jones Sons & Co. 

Berkson Bros. 

Sullivan & Auwerda 

Anderson Dulin & 
Varnell 

Callaway’s Dept. Store 

pounee’s 

Chas. B. Blakely 

Chas. Weiner & Sons 


Magee 
e Hamburger & Sons, 
Besten & Langen 


No. 2055—Le Long’s 
fashions this 
Coat Frock. 

the sash. Colors—Black, Navy, 
Cocoa, Green & Rust. 


Silk Bengaline 

attractive embroidered 
Long silk fringe finishes 
Brown, 
Sizes 16 to 44. 














who are connoisseurs of style! 


STORES EXCLUSIVELY 


Lynchburg, Va. 


Lyons, N. Y. 


Marion, Va. 
Marion, Ind. 
Mason City, Iowa 
McAlester, Okla. 
McCook, Neb. 
McKeesport, Pa. 
Memphis, Tenn. 
Miami, Fla. 
Minneapolis, 
Minn. 
Monroe, La. 
Montgomery, Ala. 
Mount Vernon, 
Ohio 


Nashville, Tenn. 

New Bedford, 
Mass. 

New Brunswick, 
N. J. 


a’. . 
New Castle, Pa. 
New Haven, Conn. 
New Kensington, 
Pa 


New Orleans, La. 
Newport, R. I. 
New York, N. Y. 


Oakland, Cal. 

Oak Park, Ill. 
Ocala, Fla. 
Ogdensburg, N. Y. 
= City, 


Okla. 
Orlando, Fla. 


Pasadena, Cal 
nee 5 a Pa. 
Pine Bluff, Ark. 
Pittsburgh, Pa. 
Pontiac, Mich. 


* Port Arthur, Texas 


Port Huron, Mich. 





tp . 














NEW YORK 


C. M. Guggenheimer Inc. 
Hartman Style Shop 


Collins Bros. 
Blumenthal & Co. 
anley Bros. Co. 


d 
Burdine & Quarterman 


E. E. Atkinson Co. 
Bella J. Scherck 
Morris-Byars Co. 


The J. S. Ringwalt Co. 
Castner Knott 
Cherry & Co. 


P. J. Young D. G. Co. 
Brown & Hamilton 
Herzog Dress Shop 


Silverman’s 

L. Feibleman & Co. Inc. 
Helen N. McCurdy 
Franklin Simon & Co. 


Taft & Pennoyer Co. 
Warrington Style Shop 
Rheinauer Co. 

Nathan Franks Sons 


Kerr D. G. Co. 
Dickson Ives Co. 


Tooker Jordan Co. 
Strawbridge & Clothier 
Isaac Dreyfus Co, 
Frank & Seder 
Robertson’s Ready To 

Wear Shop 
A. Bluestein 
ae Winkelman 

0. 


Portland, Oreg. 

Poughkeepsie, 
| > Fi 

Pulaski, Va. 


Richmond, Va. 
Riverside, Cal. 
Rochester, N. Y. 
Rockford, Ill. 


Salisbury, Md. 


San Francisco, Cal. 
Santa Barbara, Cal. 


Savannah, 
Scranton, Pa. 
Seattle, Wash. 


Sioux City, Iowa 
Spartanburg, 8S. C. 
Spokane, Wash. 
Springfield, Mass. 
Sterling, Ill. 

St. Louis, Mo. 

St. Paul, Minn. 
Susquehanna, Pa. 
Syracuse, N. Y 


Tampa, Fla. 
Terre Haute, Ind. 
Trenton, 

Troy, N. 

Tulsa, Okla. 


Vicksburg, Miss. 


Washington, D. C. 
Watertown, 8. D. 
Westerly, R. I. 
Wheeling, W. Va. 
Wilkes-Barre, Pa. 
Wilmington, Del. 
Winston Salem, 


Yonkers, N. Y. 
York, Pa. 


Youngstown, Ohio 
Zanesville, Ohio 





Posed by Claire Windsor 


SSES 


Meier & Frank 


Leety Platt & Co. 
M. C. Bane, Inc. 


Kaufmann a -- 

G. one & C 

E. Edwards & Sons 
H. Wathen ¢ Co. 


R. E. Powell & Co. 


O’Connor Moffatt & Co. 


Trenwith’s 

Leopold Adler 
Scranton D. G. Co. 
—so Southwick 


Davidson Bros. 

Aug. W. Smith Co. 
The Crescent 

The Woman’s Shop 
Wyne Deaver D. G. Co. 
T. W. Garland 

Husch Bros. 

Eisman & Hersch 

S. Burdick & Sons 


Maas Bros. 
Siegel’s 
Penrose Parlors 
herer’s 
andever D. G. Co. 


The Style Shop 


Woodward & Lathrop 
Paulis ° G. Co. 

The P. Opie Co. 
Geo. E. Sting Co. 
Fowler Dick & Walker 
Schwarz Bros. Co. 
Anchor Stores Co. 


J. Williamson 
S. Grumbacker & Son 


G. M. McKelvey & Co. 
H. H. Sturtevant Co. 


FREDERICK LOESERCO. 
in Brooklyn 


VOGUE 

















PRINCESS PAT DRESSMAKERS 
501 SEVENTH AVE., COR. 37TH ST., NEW YORK 


































Se et an ae a oo a 


























Sy NEY 


rs 


° 
eo 





























Scr 









=== 


S 





Ss) 











= 


yrs 
= 


At 









ss 














(oJ 





=, 





L—) 








= 










Se \ 
ES 













it * 










SSO 


Rok 







kei 





















ot | 


j= 


C2 
SEY S 


SS 


ress SOS eo 
STS Sees 


SLs 


so. 


rT, 


ye 


rae 
Tes 


= 


Ss 
Sh 


—7 


(SJ 
re 


Sa 
wn 


<= 
RAS 


\ 


<9 0-78 — <= CpY- 
SS res 


pW 
iS 


Sx=—7 
eed 


SSNOSo 


SS 


ope SEN 


ZO™: 
>) == 


Ss 
YS 


eS 


SS 


Sn 


>is 


AGE Se 


(S23 
SSN 
WaiC 
= 





—s)3 


— 
IS 


On 








ey 
aa 


See 


Ms 


ee 
- 


STE 


<>) 


eS Ace! 
Re FAS) 


© She secret 


of personal attractiveness 


Charming natural figure lines count so much that 
there is a real appreciation for something that hugs, 
something that clings to the figure, something that 
makes one look slimmer at once ... . 


= 


\ ar 
Pl 


S 





... » something that makes one’s figure stunning, 
absolutely perfect, in a short while. That won’t slip, 
pinch, perspire or otherwise provoke. As dainty as 
lingerie. . The new Belvadear Camiset, forexample. 


The lovely Camiset is only one of several wonder 
garments in the Gossard Line of Beauty. Were it 
not for the name Gossard you’d never associate 
them with corsets. They’re absolutely in step with 
the times. Anyway, what’s in a name when beauty 
is the prize? There are Belvadear clasp arounds, 
light as you please, and quick lacing Belvadears, too. 
Combinations, brassieres, and dainty uplift ban- 














deaux. Also Gossards that lace in front and leave 
never a trace of corsetry. 


SS 


Nw 


Snug, clinging, slim lines! These wonder garments 
were designed to give them. And do give them. 
If need be, they’ll make your figure more beauti- 
ful. And keep it so. And never give you away. 
They insure charming natural lines. Ask your 
corsetiere to show you 


‘-vhe Gossard Line of Beauty 


THE H.W. GOSSARD CO., New York, Chicago, San Francisco, London, Toronto, Sydney, Buenos Aires 


we ee 


NV Sere 
AEs 


S5 


NS 


rls 


LI -<4 
QS 


























OMFORTABLY cut glove silk underwear that won’t 

shrink; shoulder straps that stay put; broad reinforce- 
ments that protect parts which get hard wear and rubbing; 
finely woven pure silk that gives the long wear you expect — 
you get all these in ‘‘Vanitisilk’”’ (pronounced Vanity -Silk) 
underwear at any high class shop. Drop a card to Vanity 
Fair Silk Mills, Reading, Pa., for the useful booklet, ‘‘How 
to Make Your Silk Underwear Last Longer.” 








Painted by NEYSA MCMEIN 


antty Jair 


- SILK, UNDERWEAR, 




















wo! 
nav 
mat 
in ¢ 
don 
her: 
wot 
EB 
and 
recl 
beg: 
S 
and 
usef 
a hi 
“= 
O 
“P]] 
said 
T 
with 
thou 
Pres 
some 
Sh 
pair 
them 
Ni 
shoes 
- 
She 
That 
happ 
came 
had } 
oT 
plent 
60 
intert 
on 
the cl 
It ° 
was 
mood 
could 
—exc 
She 
vards 
almos 
were 
notice 
her f; 











September 15 





red wont ne, 


é | 


d 


¥ 





"Ts is the story of an Indi- 
anapolis woman, the mother 
of three children. As a young 
woman she was an enthusiastic golfer, 
having won several rather important 
matches. Then she was married, and 
in establishing her new home she aban- 
doned golf—temporarily. She told 
herself that as soon as she had time she 
would take it up again. 

But the children began to come along, 
and instead of getting more time for 
recreation, she had less. Also, her feet 
began to bother her. 

She found the Arch Preserver Shoe, 
and with it, perfect comfort and foot 
usefulness. ‘Then for six years she was 
a happy, normal mother, enjoying life 
—growing further away from golf. 

One day she started down-town to purchase shoes. 
“Pll try to buy them as economically as I can,” she 
said to herself. “The children need so many things.” 

Then she remembered the old trouble she had had 
with her feet. “But, my feet are all right,” she 
thought. “Really, I believe I overestimated these Arch 
Preserver Shoes I’ve been wearing. I’m going to try 
something else, if I can find a bargain.” 

She found the “bargain” easily. She purchased a 
pair of shoes “at just a wonderful price,” and carried 
them home exultantly. 

Nothing was said to her husband about the new 
shoes. 

The first day she wore the new shoes they felt fine. 
She was happier than ever over her “shrewdness.” 
That evening her husband came home and added to her 
happiness. ‘What do you think, little wife, the boss 
came in today and asked if I played golf. I told him I 
had played a long time ago. Ft 

“Then he asked whether you played. I told him a 
plenty about your playing, I told him—” 

“Oh, wouldn’t it be wonderful to play again!” she 
interrupted. 

“He asked you and me to join him and his wife at 
the club tomorrow afternoon for a foursome.” 

It was a bright sunshiny afternoon. The golf course 
was in perfect condition. Her husband was in a fine 
mood, and the boss and his wife were as nice as they 
could be. All in all, it was a perfect afternoon of golf 
—excepting for the fact that she had a miserable time. 

She started out dashingly, driving a full two hundred 
yards from the first tee. The second hole was played 
almost as brilliantly. Then she realized that her feet 
were acting queerly. First a feeling of fatigue, then a 
noticeable discomfort, finally a sharp pain that made 
her fairly hobble over the last few holes, 





Supports where support is needed— 
bends where the foot bends 







Little chapters from the story of how the Arch 
Preserver Shoe changed the ideas of the Nation 


No. 4 


She paid dearly for her “bargain” shoes. 

When they reached home she was in tears. 

“I know you’ll hate me, but I did the silliest thing. 
I thought my feet didn’t need that kind of shoes any 


more. I thought I’d save some money by buying shoes 
at a sale. I had on different shoes today, the first ve 


tried to wear in years.” 

He laughed good humoredly. 
behave yourself from now on. 
joke on you.” 

“It’s not a joke at all. It’s awful that I should make 
such a spectacle of myself. But I’ve learned my lesson; 
I’ve learned it twice. I won’t need a third lesson!” 

A few weeks later they played another game with 
her husband’s employer and his wife. This time, she 
played her sparkling game elear through the eighteen 
holes. The hostess was astonished. “Why, what in the 
world has happened to you? I never saw such a 
difference in any one’s playing.” 

“Well, I must tell you the story,” she replied. Then 
she explained about her Arch Preserver Shoes, with 
their special built-in arch bridge that holds up the deli- 
caté weight-carrying structure of the foot without 
strain or sagging, the flat inner sole that prevents pinch- 
ing or cramping the nerves and blood-vessels of the fore- 
part of the foot, and, finally, the different system of 
fitting that insures the placing of the bridge underneath 
the foot arch in exactly the right position. She became 
enthusiastic as she talked and went into careful detail. 

Her hostess smiled amusedly as she finished. “Do 
you know,” said the older woman, “that’s the very kind 
of shoe I’m wearing.” 

“Well,” replied the younger woman, “don’t ever 
make the mistake I made of thinking you can get along 
without Arch Preserver Shoes. I learned my lesson 
twice; I won’t need to learn it a third time.” 


“Well, I guess you'll 


Pll say that’s a good 


The Selby Shoe Co. 
Copyright, 1924 






41 











Women everywhere, in every walk 
of life, have been learning, and 
re-learning the story of the Arch 
Preserver Shoe. They have welcomed 
this shoe enthusiastically, because it 
has given them advantages they never 
before could get in a single shoe— 
comfort and style combined. 

It was a logical result that the Arch 
Preserver Shoe should “change the 


ideas of the Nation” regarding shoes. 





“KEEPS THE FOOT WELL” 
Look for this Trade-Mark 


It is on the sole and lining of every genuine 
Arch Preserver Shoe. Sold by 2000 dealers. Styles 
for all occasions. All widths, AAAA to E. Made 
for women and misses by only The Selby Shoe 
Co., Portsmouth, Ohio; for men and boys by E. T. 
Wright & Co., Inc., Rockland, Mass. 


THE SELBY SHOE CO. 

199 Seventh St., Portsmouth, Ohio 
Makers of Women’s Fine Shoes for more than 
Forty years 
Send for this interesting booklet— 
“HOW TO KEEP YOUR FEET YOUNG.”’ 








imo. 114 





No. 30361 





The Selby Shoe Co., 199 7th St., Portsmouth, O. 


Please send postpaid your booklet, No. 189, 
“How to Keep Your Feet Young,” and name 


of dealer. 
Name 


Street and No. 


a a State ....... 

















oa 


7 TAROT es Se 





be 
f 
tH 
i 


i 
f 
: 
qa 


VOGUE 
































©Vogue 


This is the cover of the 
Karly Paris Openings 
Number of Vogue 
Dated October Ist 


This number you are now reading is Vogue’s Forecast of Autumn 
Fashions—a foreeast based on a thousand observations by eyes trained 
to judge the mode—but still a forecast only. In the next number, the 
Early Paris Openings, prophecy ceases. The autumn mode js stamped 
“‘Made in Paris.”? Rumours are crystallized into facts. Doubts dispelled. 
The last inhibitions removed from your purse strings. You can complete 


your wardrobe for the season. 


Until the cables are actually decoded, Vogue always braces herself against the bars 
of her V, ready for some awful shock. Anything might happen. The last word in 
hats might suddenly become a legend. Some famous couturier might get tired of 
making slim straight scant dresses and launch just about anything into chic. Each 
season Paris has a surprise up her sleeve. That’s what gives her supremacy. And 
that is why you must be sure to get the Early Paris Openings Number two weeks 


from now. 
Reserve Your Copy at the News Stand Now 


VOGUE 


Condé Nast, Publisher 
Edna Woolman Chase, Editor 


Heyworth Campbell, Art Director 24 issues a year 


35 cents a copy 


Illustration copyright by Vogue 




















TT 





= 
= 
= 
= 
= 


lll 


ui 





MIS 
Music, 
125 E. 
THE. 


Remove 
and Dz 





Cather! 
820 Ri 


5. Mus 
Viola § 


SEM 
Boardin; 
Post Graz 
Music a 
Recreati 








rs 
241-242 | 




















September 15 


AT fad dP a Pl Pl PP 


N 














VOGUE’S SCHOOL & 
CAMP DIRECTORY 









43 


ee 































SCOVILLE 
SCHOOL 


Beautifully situated at 1006 Fifth 
Avenue, New York, facing Central 
Park, and the Museum of Art. 


A Boarding and Day School 
for Older and Younger Girls 


A school with a distinctive atmos- 
phere, combining home and school 
life in a congenial and stimulating 
environment. Complete Academic, 
College-Preparatory and Advanced 
Elective Courses. Unusual advan- 
tages in Music and Dramatic Art. 
For Catalogue, address 

Miss Rosa B. Chisman, Principal. 








‘MUTINADOUUOAUTOO AUT 


ETT TTT TTT TTT LAELIA LLL LLL LLL 


— Gardner School 
FOR GIRLS 


11 East 51st Street 
New York City 
A thorough school with 
delightful home life. Fire- 





proof building. College 
preparatory, academic, 
secretarial and_ elective 
courses. Music. Riding, 


swimming, tennis. 68th 
year. 


Miss Eltinge \ 
Miss Fs met f Principals 


72 FINCH SCH22L 


A Boarding and Day School for Girls, 
emphasizing post-graduate work 


61 East 77th Street, New York City 
THE DEVERELL SCHOOL 


(French school for girls) 
57 EAST 74TH ST., NEW YORK CITY 
Paris branch 


MISS M. HOURIGAN’S SCHOOL 


Degrees from Royal Conservatories of 
Brussels and I.ondon 
Music, French, Arts. + ge - ‘amen study 
Chaperona e. Superv 
125 E. 80th St., N. Y. City. Phone ‘Thinctender 0493 


THE RAYSON SCHOOLFOR GIRLS 


Removed to beautiful residence on the Drive. Home 
and Day Departments. 30th year. October, 1924. 
Clara I. Colbourne, A. B., Principal 
Catherine A. Wilcox, A. B., Associate Principal 
820 Riverside Drive, Cor. 104th St., N. Y. City 


CUDDER SCHOOL BéxaniN2 
BOARDING 
West 72d St., Near Riverside Drive. 

1. High School. 2. Secretarial. 3. Household 
Arts. 4. Social Welfare and Community Service 
5. Music—all branches. Athletics. Address Miss 
Viola Scudder, 244 W. 72d St., N. Y. City ; 


™~ site 
SEMPLE SCHOOL $= 6co0Pr Pek 
Boarding and Day Pupils. College Preparatory. 
Post Graduate, Finishing courses anguages, Art, 
Music and Dramatic Art. Social Life. Outdoor 
Recreation. 

Mrs. T. Darrington Semple, Principal 

241-242 Central Park West. Box V. New York City 


UNKEWAY HALL 
Babylon, New York 


Country Home and Ist and 2nd years of 
High School for Girls. 


Mrs. Anna Elizabeth Rubino. 
































New York School 
of Music and Arts 
150 RIVERSIDE DRIVE 


All Branches of Music 
and the Arts taught 


DORMITORIES IN BUILDING 



















©Children’s Vogue 


GAY SCHOOL 


DAYS 


Yes, really! Why should school be a 
drudgery? Boarding-school days 
are the most fun in the world 


OR most girls of good family, boarding schoo] is 
the first real adventure. Suddenly they find them- 


selves in a world of their own, fitted to their needs and 


pleasures. 
class are begun. 


New friendships with girls of their own 
There are school games and sports; 


school parties, formal and otherwise; visits to near-by 


cities for a theatre, a concert, a glimpse of the great 


world. Careful but not too strict chaperonage is 


provided; regular study hours are adhered to; the quick 
little minds take hold of study with a fresh zest in the 


new surroundings. 


Why not ask us to tell you about girls’ 
schools of good standing, and their 


special advantages? 


Ask us now! 


The Condé Nast School Bureau 


21 West 44th Street 


New York City 


. 




















NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY 


NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY 

















Maksmere 


MRS. MERRILL’S SCHOOL 
FOR GIRLS 


Reopens for the Nineteenth Year 
Tuesday, October 7th, 1924 


Address 
MRS. MERRILL 


ORIENTA POINT 
MAMARONECK,N.Y. 



































The 
Ely School 


For Girls 
Greenwich, Conn. 


In the country. One hour from New 
York. Junior and Upper Schools. 
College Preparatory and Graduate 
Courses. One-year course, intensive 
college preparatory review. Riding 
and seasonable sports. 

















TEASDALE RESIDENCE 
326 West 80th St. Riverside Drive 
_. Tel. Endicott 7858 
For Girl Students and Young Women 
who come to New York to pursue courses of 
study and for a social season. 
French Tutoring 
Chaperonage—Booklet 











ee. Boswell’s Residence 


344-346 West 84th St., 
at Riverside Drive, 
New York. 


4 delightful home for 
girls attending any 
school, college or studio. 
Open all year. Registra- 
tions now for 1924-25. 
Elective chaperonage. 
Ninth Year. Telephone 
Endicott 7653. Catalogue. 














FRENCH HOME SCHOOL 


Planned exclusively for girls pursuing special 
studies in New York. Exceptional opportunities 
for pred. 

S MACINTYRE or MLLE. TALGUEN 
320 Ww Soren St., Riverside Drive, New York City 








Attractive Mew Bork Home 


ENLARGING THIS YEAR 
BELDEN RESIDENCE 
321 West 80th St., New York City 
For Girl Students. Chaperonage if desired 
" For booklet, address 
Miss Belden Telephone Endicott 0016 





ROSE TREE, Port Washington, Long Island. 37 
minutes from Penna. Station. Refined private home 
accessible to city with advantages of country. 
French, music, dancing. Special department in 
connection with nearby private school for children 
from 8 to 12. Home atmosphere; resident trained 
nurse; chaperonage optional. Address Mrs. S. A. 
Bullock. 





EAST SIDE RESIDENCE 


New York City 
For limited number of Girl Students. Studies 
arranged if desired. Chaperonage. Home care. 
Address and information given upon application to 
Mrs. A. M. Banker Johnstown, N. Y 





THE ARTHOLME 
337 W. 88th St., at Riverside Drive, N. Y. C 
A_ delightful home for girls studying ‘in the city. 
Also unusual facilities for music students. Singing 
instructions taken care of at the residence by 
competent singer insuring satisfaction. Telephone 
Schuyler 6098. 





MRS. FARMER’S CHAPERONAGE 
202 Riverside Drive, New York City 

A delightful home for Girl Students. Splendid 
view overlooking Hudson. Sunny bedrooms with 
baths adjoining. Chaperonage elective. Booklet. 
Alice Stone Farmer. Tel. Ritersidz 3487 








CO-EDUCATIONAL—BERMUDA 








THE WINTER SCHOOL 
Hamilton, Bermuda 
Kindergarten and Primary Grades under 
supervision of the Froebel League of New 
York. Mrs. M. B. B. Langzettel, Director. 
November to May. Children may be en- 
rolled for shorter term. Catalogue. Miss 











Irene Tighe, 124 Park Avenue, Yonkers, N.Y. 







































































VUGUE 











NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY 


NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY 


NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY | 


NEW ENGLAND 











Cathedral School of Saint Mary 


Garden City, Long Island, N. Y. 
School for Girls, 22 miles from. New 
York. College preparatory and general 
courses. Catalog on request. Box V. 


MISS MIRIAM A. BYTEL, Principal 


> Glen Eden 


Suturban to New York City 
Fifty Minutes from Fifth Ace. 


Exclusively a boarding school for 
hich school girls or vraduates 
Elective studies (regular or spe- 
cial) for every preference. Magnifi- 
cent buildings and grounds. 
Socialr culture; strong ath- 
letics.” For catalogue with 
many views of this ex- 
quisite school, address: 
Director of Glen Eden. 
Stamford, Conn. 



































SOUTHFIELD POINT HALL 


fer girls. On Long Island Sound. Intermediate, 
ollege Preparatory and General Courses. Music. 
Horseback riding. Outdoor life a_ special feature | 
Catalog. Jessie Callam Gray, B.A., Principal. 
28 Davenport Drive Stamford, Conn. 


App cbhe Ca stle 
Miss Mason’s School 


t<Bt~- for Girls 








Junior School. 








BRIARCLIFF 


A SCHOOL OF LOYAL TRADITIONS WITH MODERN SPIRIT 


College preparation. General Academic, Home Efficiency and Post Graduate courses. 
Music, Art, New York advantages 
New Model Swimming Pool 
Ossip Gabrilowitsch, Artistic Adviser to the Music Department 
"Jai n Sickesz, Director 
Charles W. Hawthorne, N. A., Director of the Art Department 
For Illustrated Circular, apply to 
MRS. EDITH COOPER HARTMAN, B. S., Principal, Briarcliff Manor, New York 




















SCHOOL 


DWIGHT s9e!s 


Recommended by the leading colleges for 
COLLEGE PREPARATION 
SPECIAL FINISHING COURSES 
Athletics, Gymnasium, Tennis, Riding 
Spacious Grounds for Games 


| ALUMNAE CORDIALLY RECOMMEND DWIGHT BECAUSE 


OF THE SPIRIT WHICH IT INCULCATES: 
FRANKNESS, SELF CONTROL, SERVICE 
Write for Illustrated Catalog telling of the life 
of the school. References on request. 
Miss E. S. Cretcuton Principal 
Englewood, New Jersey 








‘Box 731 Tarryiown-on-Hudson, NewYor} 
Tarrytown - on- 


MARYMOUNT aati’ Y 


Pre-Academic, Academic and College Courses lead- 


ing to Degrees. Two-year Finishing Course. Gym- | 
nasium. Swimming Pool, Riding, Music, Art. | 
Paris Branch—Chiateau de la Muette, 


Fer Catalogue apply to Reverend Mother, 








FOREIGN SCHOOLS & TRAVEL 











ANNES 
The Fontaine School Rix&i 
Study and travel. Cultural, Finishing and College 
Prep. courses. Sports. Resident and Day Stu- 
dents. Address Director, Miss Marie oe | 
Fontaine, Care of Women’s City Club, 22 Par 
Ave, New York City; or Villa tiauiaee, 
Cannes, A. M., France. 





L’ER MITAGE 


7 bis rue de !’Ermitage, Versailles, S. et O. 
Offers all advantages of Paris with country life. 
French Studies—Music—Art—Travel. From Aug. 
15th to Sept. 30th refer Mile. Latapie, Guaranty 
Trust Co., 524 Fifth Avenue, New York City 


“LE GUI’’—PARIS 


A finishing school for girls 
Highest educational and social references. French, 
Art, Riding, etc. Large Garden. Bath Rooms. 
Comtesse P. de Broin, Principal 
8 Rue de l’Yvette, !6eme 


Mile. Latapie’s School 
for Girls 











LE LIERRE 
Pare des Princes (Near the Bois de Boulogne) | 
High-class finishing school for girls H 


Complete course in French Art. Sightseeing. 
Excursions. Large garden. Tennis court. Modern 
comfort. Central heating. 


Madame BERNT LIE 
39 Rue du Chateau—9 Av. Victor Hugo 
Tél. 154--BOULOGNE s/Seine 





— 


FOREIGN TRAVEL SCHOOL 
FOR GIRLS 
FEBRUARY TO JUNE 1925 


Harmonizes travel and study. Rome, Flor- 
ence, Paris, London. References required 
Price includes travel, chaperonage, instruc 
tion in language, literature, art and history. 
Write for prospectus to Mr. L. V. Arnold, 
Secretary, Suite 313, 350-G Madison Ave., 
New York City. 








SUMMER CAMPS 


| Sports. 


Kent. Place School for Girls 
MMIT, NEW JERSEY 

An paduped School—Thirtieth Year 
On the Estate of Chancellor Kent in the 
Hills of New Jersey twenty miles from 
New York. 

COLLEGE PREPARATORY 

ACADEMIC 
Music Art Athletics 
Sarah Woodman Paul, Anna S. Woodman 
Principals 














Miss Beard’s School 
<A Country School near New York 
Orange, New Jersey 








“HILLSIDE Boralk, Conn. 

For Girls. 

45 miles from New York. Prepara- 

tion for college entrance examinations 

General Courses. Organized athletics 

MargaretR.Brendlingcr,A.B. (Vassar) | Prins 
Vida Hunt Francis, A. Bs (Smith) 











EASTERN ATLANTIC 











BISHOPTHORPE MANOR 


For Girls. In mountains near New York. 
Graduates enter all certificate colleges without 
exams. H. 8. & Jr. College. Music, Expres- 
sion, Art, Domestic Science, Interior Decorat- 
ing, Secretarial, Social Training. New Gym 

and pool. Outdoor Life. Rate $800. CATALOG. 
Mr. and Mrs. Claude Wyant Bethlehem, Pa. 

















CO-EDUCATIONAL 








THE CHILDREN’S COUNTRY SCHOOL 
Nyack-on-Hudson, N. Y. 

A home environment for a selected group. Thorough 

instruction—kindergarten thro eighth grade. Spe- 

cial attention to health thro right living. 

Summer School. Open all year 

Address, The Secretary 








THE TEELA—WOOKET CAMPS 
Senior and Junior Camps for Girls, under 20. 
Roxbury, Verinont. Famous for fine saddle horses. 
Free riding and thorough instruction in horse- 
manship. 300 acre ‘‘wonderland’’ in_ heart of 
Green Mountains. Booklet. Mr. and Mrs. C. 
Roys, 10 Bowdoin St., Cambridge, 38, Mass. 





ST. me go OF-THE-ROSES 
MOTHER SCHOOL 
Episcopal. —. all year. Children 3 to 12 years. 
One hour from New York. Usual studies. Outdoor 
sports. Camp. Bathing 
“The School that” Develops Initiative.”’ 
Mrs. W. B. Stoddard, Directress, Box V, Noroton, Conn. 





| 


; on college preparatory 





NEW ENGLAND 


Miss Hall’s 


SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 


MISS MIRA H. HALL, Principal 
Pittsfield, Mass. 




















GRAY GABLES 


A tutoring School for Girls, offering a one-year 
intensive course preparing for all college examina- 
tions. 98 per cent of students have successfully 
passed college entrance examinations in last seven 
years. Address MIRIAM TITCOMB, Principal 
Box B. 45 Cedar Street Worcester, Mass. 


N SCHOOL FOR GIRLS N 
Four Year Preparatory Course for Smith College. 
One Year Intensive Course for High School Graduates. 
All ne. For Catalog and Information Address 
MRS. . LUCIA, Secretary, Northampton, Mass. 











LINCOLN SCHOOL 
College Preparatory for Girls. General Courses~ 
Modern fireproof buildings 
All sports. Country life. City advantages 
MISS MIRIAM SEWALL CONVERSE, Principal 
Providence, Rhode Island 


CHOATE SCHOOL 


1600 Beacon Street, Brookline, Mass. 


Home and day school for girls. Special emphasis 
work. 


Augusta Choate, Vassar, A.B.,A.M.. 





Principal 








EASTERN ATLANTIC 








HARCUM SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 
Thorough college preparation; or special 
study. Music, Art. New building, 
large grounds. Athletics, riding. Mrs. 
E. H. Hareum, B. L., Head of School; 
Mrs. L. M. Willis, B. P., Principal, 
Box V, Bryn Mawr, Pa. 








FOR 
GIRLS 


minutes from 
Department. 


OGONTZ SCHOOL 


On the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 
Phila. Est. 1850. Rydal, Junior 
Send for catalog. 





Miss Abby Sutherland, Prin., Ogontz School, 
Montgomery Co., w 

Jenkintown, Pa. Suburb of Philadelphia. School 

for practical training of young women. Junior 

College Departments, Music, Art, Home LEco- 

nomics, Kindergarten, Normal Gymnastics, etc. 

Pipe Organ, gymnasium. Address as above. 































LASELL SEMINARY 


Overlooking beautiful village of Auburndale 
-—ten miles from Boston. 30 acres, 15 build- 
ings. 

A complete course on the care and management 
of the home and family. Unusual training in 
music with concert work. Secretarial, Art, 
Teacher Training and College Preparatory Courses. 


Indoor and outdoor athletics. Gymnasium 
— swimming pool. Horseback riding a 
eature. 


Woodland Park, The Junior School for Girls 


GUY M. WINSLOW, Ph.D., Principal 
CHARLES F. TOWNE, A.M., Assoc. Principal 
126 Woodland Rd., Auburndale, Massachusetts. 














For GIRLS 


6 miles from Boston. 
All studies except En- 
glish elective 
finishing 


Preparatory: 

school. 

Advanced Elective 
Courses for high school 
=. cee Cc eo 

cate. Fully equ 

Piano, Voice, Violin Pipe 
Organ, with notedmen. 

Domestic Science. New 
Gymnasium with swim- 

pool. 

00 ign and 
Home Decoration. Sec- 
retarial Course. 

Exceptional opportuni- 


ties, with a delightful 
Year Book on home life. 
Request 2639 Summit Street 
NEWTON, MASS. 





HOUSE'IN THE PINES 
Norton, Mass., 12 Pine St., 30 miles from Boston 
A School for Girls. College preparatory and 
advanced courses. Music, Art, Household Arts. 
Secretarial courses. Every attention, not only to 
habits of study, but to each girl’s health and hap- 
piness. Miss Gertrude £. Cornish, Principal. 


BRADFORD ACADEMY 
Bradford, Mass. 


Three years’ College Pre- 
122nd year. 





Junior College. 
paratory and Special Courses. 


PINE MANOR 


A school for home efficiency. Two-year course for 
graduates of secondary schools. Higher cultural 
studies with emphasis on subjects pertaining to 
home management. Catalog 

Miss Helen Temple Cooke, Bene Hall, Wellesley, Mass. 


crvmasans lac Multi 


E one vear 
COLLEGE Sch 0 ol 


TUTORING 
PREPARATION GIRLS COURSE 
Cotategus t a Mass. 











THE MISSES ALLEN SCHOOL 


College Preparatory, General and Cultural Courses, 
Athletics Supervised. Each girl’s personality ob- 
served and developed. Telephone West Newton 0131. 
Lucy Ellis Allen, Prin., West Newton, Mass. 


ROGERS HALL 


A SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 
Lowell, Massachusetts 
MISS OLIVE SEWALL PARSONS, Principal 


Kendall hall 


Yor girls. Unquestioned scholastic stan- 
dards. Exceptional physical advantages. 
Mr. and Mrs. Charles P. Kendall, Box 11. 











PRIDES CROSSING 
MASSACHUSETTS 








NEW YORK STATE 








A Country School 
The Mary Lyon School f ocnigetown 
Preparatory for college. Music, Art, Languages, 
Iiome-making Sciences. Outdoor sports. Seven 


Gables—Junior School. Wildcliff—Graduate School. 
Mr. and Mrs. H. M. Crist, Principals, Box 1509, 
Swarthmore, Pennsylvania. 





HIGHLAND HALL 


A school for Girls High in the Mountains 
College Preparatory, General, Post-Graduate Courses 
Autumn and Spring Camp part of School Life 








Ellen C. Keates, A. B., Principal, Holidaysburg, Pa. 





Tre KNOX force 


College Preparatory. Cultural and Vocational Courses. 
LOWER SCHOOL FOR GIRLS IO TO 12 
Mrs. Russell Houghton, Box V, Cooperstown, N. Y. 





A CONVENT SCHOOL 


2 Hrs. from N. Y. C. Graduates enter college 
without exams. Dom. Sci.; Secretarial; Finishing. 
Lower School for young girls. Horseback riding and 
all athletics. (Summer Camp.) Catalog -of 

URSULINE ACADEMY. Box V, Middletown, N.Y. 









\\ 






|| 


Ware 
train 
and 

Soutl 
cours 
colleg 


Belm 

































































ive 


Col 
Under 
Europe: 
cut of 
Miss 1 


TUL 
College 
eral cot 
Art. J 
ming p 
Miss F; 


KE 


§ (Episcoy 
hour fro 
courses, 
Lake. 








LINDE! 
50 minu 
Young 

courses, 
Musie. 

Catalog 
Box 424 


—_— 


College 
vanced 
Arts. 





0 





Chicago, 
Box 326 








N 
BERK 


45th Ye 
Thorough 
business. 
roof play 
Illustrate 


-——— 


MA 


Military. 
ness cour 
to 14, 3é 
Gen. Wm 














The §& 


Forme 


AP 
Attractive 
Cats 

J 
















SQ 










ge 
is. 
nd 





§ (Episcopal) 


September 15 








SOUTHERN—Girls’ 


DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA—Girls’ 


EASTERN ATLANTIC—Boys’ 


EASTERN ATLANTIC—Boys’ 








WARD- BELMONT 


For Girls and Young Women 


Ward-Belmont combines highest academic 
training and advantages of extensive grounds 
and equipment with that much-sought-for 
Southern culture and refinement. Six-year 
course of study embracing two years of 
college. For information address 
WARD-BELMONT 
Belmont Heights, Box 10, Nashville, Tenn. 


WARRENTON COUNTRY SCHOOL 
For Girls 

College preparatory and general course. French, 
the language of the house. The school is planned 

teach girls how to study, to bring them nearer 
nature, and to inculeate habits of order and economy. 
This school offers a fixed rate. Music, Drawing 
and Riding are the only extras. Separate building 
for little girls. 
Mile. Lea M. 


VIRGINIA COLLEGE for Girls and Young 
Women 2 Box V, ROANOKE, VA. 
In Valley of Virginia. Elective, Preparatory, 
Junior College. Music, Art, Expression. Home 
Lconomics, Secretarial, Library. Journalism. 
Mattie P. Harris, Pres. 
Mrs. V.-P. 


Gertrude Harris Boatwright, 
Asheville, N. C. 
4 Resident and Day School for Girls. 
Intermediate and College Preparatory courses. 
OR. and MRS. T. A. COSGROVE, Principals 





2 
Bouligny, Box 18, Warrenton, Va. 














CENTRAL STATES 





The Eastman School 


1305 Seventeenth Street, Washington, D. C. 
Boaraing and Day School for Girls. Courses from 
Primary to College. Special Attention to Ath- 
letics. Dramatic work. Business Course. Cata- 
logue on request. Miss E. J. Brydon, Secretary 


FAIRMONT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 


Washington, D. C. Regular and Special Courses. 

Advanced Courses for High School graduates, 

Music, Art, Expression. Educational advantages of 

National Capital. For catalogue address 
Fairmont School, 

2109 S Street, 


Washington, D. C. 
CHEVY CHASE SCHOOL 


A school for the girl of today and_ tomorrow. 
Courses: Preparatory, two-year advanced for high 
school graduates; special. Unrivalled location at 
the national capital. For catalog, address Chevy 
Chase School, Box V. Frederick Ernest Farrington. 
Ph. D., Headmaster, Washington, D. C. 


The Misses Stone’s School 


For a limited number of young ladies. American 

History, Literature, History of Art and French. 

Secretarial Course. Interior Decoration. Prepara- 

tion for travel. Miss Isabelle Stone, Ph.D. and 

Harriet Stone, 1700 Rhode Island Ave., 
N. W., Washington, D. C. 


IMMACULATA SEMINARY 
A Select Suburban School for Girls 


College Preparatory, special and practical Courses. 
Two years of recognized work for high school gradu- 
ates. Music, Art, Oral Expression, Home Econoinics. 
Physical Education. All Sports. Address: 


The Secretary, 4300 Wisconsin Ave., Washington, D.C. 

















ELMHURST 


College Preparatory and Graduate Courses 
Under the direction of Eastern Teachers 
European training. Horseback riding. All 
cut of Doors. 

Miss Isabel Cressler Miss Caroline Sumner 
Connersville, Indiana 
FOR 


TUDOR HALL SCHOOL i's 


College preparation with certificate privileges. Gen- 
eral courses. Unusual opportunities in Musie and 
Art. Fireproof buildings. Gymnasium. Swim- 
ming pool. Horseback riding. For catalog address 
Miss Fredonia Allen, Indianapolis, Indiana. 


KEMPER HALL 


with 
Sports 








Kenosha 
Wisconsin 
School for girls on North Shore one 
hour from Chicago. College preparatory and general 
courses. Music, Art, Domestic Science. On the 
Lake. Outdoor and indoor sports. 

Address The Secretary. 








LINDENWOOD COLLEGE Founded 1827 
50 minutes from St. Louis. Standard College for 
Young Women fuily accredited. 2 and year 
courses. Home Economics, Business, Oratory, 
Music. 138 Acres. Gymnasium, Swimming Pool. 
Catalog J. L. Roemer, President 
Box 424 Charles, Mo, 


FERRY HALL 


College preparatory, general high school and ad- 
vanced courses. Music, Mxpression and Domestic 
Arts. On shore of Lake Michigan, 28 miles from 
Chicago. Catalog. Miss Eloise R. Tremain, Principal, 
Box 326, Lake Forest, Ill. 


NEW YORK STATE—Boys’ 
BERKELEY-IRVING 4 AY 


“From Primary to College’’ 
45th Year begins Sept. 25th. Small classes. 
Thorough instruction. Prepares for college or for 
business. Swimming pool; gymnasium building; 
‘oof ~playground—all on premises. Outing sa 
Illustrated Catalogue. 311 West 83rd St., N. Y. 


MANLIUS 


Military. Graduates now attending 48 colleges. 
ness course. Riding School. Junior school for boys 10 
to 14, 36 years under present management. Address 
Gen. Wm. Verbeck, Pres. Box 139, Manlius, N. Y. 


The STORM KING Sefool 


formerly The STONE SCHOOL — Established tG7 

A Progressive College Preparatory School 
Attractive Outdoor Life. 50 Miles from New York. 
Catalog and Book of Views on Request. 

ALVAN E. DUERR, Headmaster 
Cornwall-on- Hudson, nm. Ve 


SQUARE HOUSE 


SAINT JAMES, LONG ISLAND 


Fifty miles from New York 


St. 

















SCHOOL 
BOYS 





Saint John’s School 
College Preparatory, 
Busi- 



























North Shore Sound. One-hundred 
acres field and woodland. All year 
normal, happy outdoor life for boys 
under 17 Expert individual teaching. 


Training for Christian Manliness 
J. A. SNELLGROVE, Director 


— Building— 


SQUARE BOYS 














/'NATIONAL PARK SEMINARY 


FOR GIRLS, WASHINGTON, D. C., SUBURBS 
The fundamentals of college training in a_ 2-year 
diploma course. Masia, Dramatics, Home Econom- 
ies. CEM on request 
JAS. E ENT, Ph.D., LL.D., President 
Box oor? FOREST GLEN, MARYLAND 


KING-SMITH STUDIO-SCHOOL 


For young women. Music, languages, dancing, dra- 





matie art; any art, academic or college subject may 
be elected. Tuition according to amount of work 
taken, 

MR. 


& MRS. AUGUST KING-SMITH, Directors 
1751 New Hampshire Ave. Washington, D. C. 
COLONIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 
Beautiful location in National Capital. High 
School, College Preparatory, Collegiate, Domestic 
Science, Secretarial courses, Music, Art and lix- 
pression. Well ordered home and social life. Ath- 
leties. Miss Jessie Truman, Assoc. Prins, 1537 

Fighteenth St., N. W., Washington, D.C. 


CENTRAL STATES 


5t. Mary-of-the-Woods 


College for Women. Standard Collegiate Courses. 
Academy. Complete High School Curriculum 
Music, Art, Expression. All Sports and Athletics. 
For illustrated bulletins address: The Secretary 























Box 150, St. Mary of the Woods, Indiana 


we PRINCETON 
TUTORING SCHOOL 


Thorough and Successful College Preparation. 
Catalog, Illustrated Booklets, References on request. 
John G. Hun, “Edgehill,” Princeton, New Jersey. 





‘N For the all-around edu- 
4 cationof manly boys. Ath- 
letic sports,60-acre campus. 
Prepares for all the best 
colleges. Moderate rates. Forms include two Gram- 
mar and four High School Grades. 59th year. 
ETLAND, Headmaster 
Box 9V, Hightstown, N. J. 


BLAIR - School for Boys 


Founded _ 1848, Imposing buildings, fully 
equipped. Thorough instruction. Lower School for 
younger hoys. ame Write for catalog. 

JOHN C. SHARPE, LL.D., Headmaster 
Box K, Blairstown. N. J. 





Collese Preparatory 





MILITARY 
INSTITUTE 
college or business 


BORDENTOW 


Thorough preparation for 
Efficient faculty. small classes, individual atten- 
tion. Boys taught how to. study. Supervised 
athletics. 40th year. Catalogue. Col. T. D. Landon, 
Principal and Commandant, 


Drawer C-13, Borden- 
town-on-the-Delaware, N, 





FREEHOLD tk SCHOOL 

















for boys 7 to 15. Moditied military training 

inculeates obedience, orderliness, self-reliance. 

The school with personal touch. Catalog. Address 
—— CHAS. M. DUNCAN, 

Box 99, Freehold, N. J. 
SOUTHERN 
STAUNTON Muesa57 

‘ ACADEMY 


One of the most distinguished schools in America, 
preparing for Universities, Government Academies, 





Business. Gymnasium, swimming vee all athletics. 
Complete plant. Charges $650. Col. Thos. 3 
Russell, B.S., Pres., Box V, (Kable Station) 
Staunton, Va. 
FAIRHAVEN 
A Country School for Boys 
Hot Springs, Bath County, Virginia 


English Tutorial Method. 
Faculty composed entirely of 
Yale, Princeton and Oxford men. 
Rensselaer Lee, M. A. (Princeton) Headmaster. 





Ideal for 


Branham & Hughes Military Academy. 
Thirty 


training boys in character and scholarship. 
miles south of Nashville. New buildings. Improved 
ae Endorsed by eminent educators, 31st 
ear. U. 8S. Officer detailed. Member Association of 
Military Colleges and Schools. Read our catalogue. 
Address Box 12, Spring Hill, Tenn. 








NEW ENGLAND—Boys’ 


NEW ENGLAND 








ORCESTER ACADEM 


FOR BOYS OF ABILITY WITH COLLEGE VISION 


250 boys $1,000,000 equipment 


$1000 per year Worcester, Massachusetts 











| Allen- Chalmers 


A Country School for Boys 
Graduates of the School now in Harvard, Dart- 
mouth, Brown, Tufts, Columbia, Cornell 
Military Efficiency. Upper and Lower Schools. 
Interest in studies developed. 
Athletics Graded to the boys’ needs. 


Boston Within 9 miles 
Illustrated Booklet or Catalog on request. 


THOMAS CHALMERS, PD. D., Director. 


West Newton, Massachusetts. 


] wo 
reali and Happiness achieve fine results ir— 


r Young WE 
the Class Room. Large estate. Altitude 1100. 
Earle Everett Sarcka, Box 222, Litchfield, Conn. 
CORNWALL 


RUMSEY HALL CONNECTICUT 


A school for boys under 15 


Vearly Rate $1350 
L. R. Sanford, Prin. Louis H. Shutte, M. A. Headmast@ 


WESTMINSTER SCHOOL 


Simsbury, Conn. 
RAYMOND R. McORMOND, Headmaster 


ROX BURY 


A Special Type of Boarding School 
Sound College Preparation by the Tutorial Method. 


A. V.. SHERIFF, Headmaster, CHESHIRE, Conn. 

















SPECIAL SCHOOLS 














TOME SCHOOL 


One of the most celebrated and 
best-equipped schools for boys in 
America. Enrollment limited to 
225 students. Campus of 190 
acres. Ten modern buildings. 
Separate rooms for each student. 
College Board standards. Sepa- 
rate department for boys below 
high-school age. Nine-hole go!f 
course. Al! athletics. Heavy en- 
dowment makes rate appreciably 
lower than any other school in the 
same Class. Catalog. 


Murray P, Brusu, Pu.D. 


Port Deposit, Mp. 

















CENTRAL STATES 


LAKE FOREST 


Academy _ for 
Endowed. = 2 - 











Non-Military College Prenaratory 
Boys. Near Chicago. All Athletics. 
log: J. W. Richards, Box 150, Lake Forest, 

Academy for 


THORPE bese tinder ts 


Beautiful high bluff location, Lake Michigar shore. 
30 miles from Chicago. Semi-military. Small classes 
Uniforms. Catalog. Address 

Lake Forest, 


MILITARY 


ULVER. ACADEMY 


NORTHWESTERN iar Reatemy 


70 mi. from Chicago. An endowed College Prepara- 











For catalog address The 
Inquiry Bureau, Cul- 
ver, Ind. 





tory School and Junior College. Its distinctive 
advantages and methods interest discriminating 
parents. Send for catalog. 

Col. P. Davidson, Pres., Lake Geneva, Wis. 








SPECIAL SCHOOLS 








The Schuster-Martin School 
Dramatic Art Stagecraft 
Classic Dancing 
Summer Session. Dormitory. Our own theatre 
Helen Schuster-Martin, Director. The Little Play- 

house, Kemper Lane, Cincinnati, O. 





Dignifie 
$5, 900 to $10,000 Incomes for experts. 
t. 1916, Assistance extended to 
Sudeute and graduates. Write for details. 


haaataie Landscape School. 89 H, Newark, N. % 


pitde “compe 1 
by our method. 








THE CAMBRIDGE SCHOOL 


Domestic Architecture and Landscape Architecture 
professional school for women 
Henry Atherton Frost, M. Arch. 
13 Boylston St., Cambridge, Mass. 





Physical Education 


For Women—Accredited 
2-Year Normal Course for Directors of Physical 
Education, Playground Supervisors, Dancing 
Teachers and Swimming Instructors. 
2ist Session Opens September 15, 1924 
New gymnasium, new classrooms and labora- 
tories, new gro owes All modern, up-to-date 
facilities and equipm 
CHICAGO NORM £ Senos OF 
YSICAL EDUGATIO 
5026 Greenwood Ave., Dept. 29, "ehhent 1. 





The Marjorie Webster School 


Of Expression and Physical Education 
2-year Normal course. 1-year Professional course. 
Fall term opens September 22nd. Day & Night 
School. Dormitory. Catalogue. 

1409 V Massachusetts Ave., N. W., Washington, D.C. 


OneoRar 


(incinnati (onservatory Music 


Founded 1867—Campus and Dormitories 
Noted Faculty. Send for brochure to 
BERTHA BAUR, Director. 2615-2695 Highland 

Ave. at Oak St., Cincinnati, Ohio. 





WOMEN! 
BECOME INDEPENDENT 


Improve your own appearance while 
learning to improve that of others 


Become a member of this highly respected profes- 
sion. Marinello graduates lead everywhere—are 
known and sought—earn $3,000 to $20,000 a year. 
Learn scientifically and thoroughly at the largest 
and best-equipped schools of beauty culture in che 
country. 


Marinello teaches Facial and Scalp Treatments, 

Shampooing, Manicuring, Marcel and Water Wav- 
ing, Hairdressing, Permanent Waving and Elec- 
trolysis. 


Day and night classes, advanced and elementary. 
Easy terms. Call or write for our School Catalogue. 


THE MARINELLO SYSTEM 


366 Fifth Avenue 806 Tower Court, 
New York City Chicago, Il. 














46 


VOGUE® ; 








SPECIAL SCHOOLS 


THE 


Bancroft School 
for 


children whose mental development 


has not progressed normally 
(41st year) 














A cultured home for the sons and 
daughters of gentlemen, in which they 
may receive training adapted to meet 
their individual needs; competent med- 
ical and hygienic care, protection from 
harmful contacts, desirable companion- 
ship and real affection. 


E. A. FARRINGTON, M.D. 
JENZIA COULSON COOLEY 
Address Box 145 Haddonfield, N. J. 


DEVEREUX SCH@LS 


for Children whose Progres has been Retarded 
Three separate schools for Boys and Girls of all 
ages requiring Scientific Observation and Special 
instruction. Male faculty for older boys. Tutoring 
Camp in summer. 
HELENA T. DEVEREUX, Director, Box V 
BERWYN, PA. 


1880 SEGUIN SCHOOL 1924 


For Backward and Mentally Deficient Children 
Limited to 25 pupils, girls, young women and 
boys under 12. No epileptics nor insane, ‘Ten 
teachers, five governesses. Large grounds. 


Mrs. E. M. Seguin, Box 10, Orange, N. J. 


EXCEPTIONAL CHILDREN 


can be successfully developed by individual training 




















YS GIRLS LITTLE FOLKS 
Three separate schools. 230 acres. Booklet. Miss 
Woods’ School, Box 169, Langhorne, Pa. 


Mollie Woods Hare, Principal 





FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE SCHOOL FOR 


BACKWARD CHILDREN 


Katonah, N. Y.—42 Miles from N. Y. 
Summer School and Camp On the School Grounds. 
In Beautiful Westchester Hills. 
Rudolph 8. Fried, Principal. 


SOUND VIEW SCHOOL 


FOR BACKWARD CHILDREN 
Summer School in Maine 
Individual Instruction 
70 Prospect St., Port Chester, New York 
Tel. Port Chester 1556M 








Schermerhorn Home School 


A school for children of slight retardation. Special 
emphasis on physical development and correction 
of speech defect. 

Miss Sue J. a --— 
Colonial Place, R. F. D. Richmond, Va. 


£ FREER SCHOOL 


For girls of retarded development. Limited enroll- 
ment permits intimate care. 9 miles from Boston. 
MISS CORA E. MORSE, Principal 
3! Park Cirele Arlington Heights, Mass. 








STANDISH MANOR SCHOOL 


A special school for backward girls. Individual in- 
struction. Experienced teachers, Uappy home life. 
Mealthful location. Qut-door and water sports. 30 
acre estate. 
Alice M. Myers, Principal 
Hazel G. Cullingford, Ass’t Vrincipal 
HALIFAX, MASS. 








© Children’s 
Vogue 


useful member of society. 


21 West 44th Street 








BACKWARD CHILDREN 


HROUGH ‘ome accident of illness, or other unusual circum- 

stances, children occasionally fall behind their fellows in 
school. They are sensitive about it, and the backwardness increases. 
The child’s whole life may be warped by it unless taken in time. 


There are charming homes where children of this type are given 
individual instruction by specially trained teachers. Children who 
are deficient fundamentally are taught printing, dressmaking, bas- 
ketry, weaving, and other handicrafts not too taxing. Some schools 
take care of one type of mind, some another. 
separated from girls. The child is always made to feel that he is a 


Ask us to recommend the school you 
need. We wisit them personally and 
can speak from first-hand knowledge 


The Condé Nast School Bureau 


Boys are always 


New York City 























SPECIAL SCHOOLS 


SPECIAL SCHOOLS 











ARN ET T 
Individual Training 
PLATFORM 
Special Emphasis on 
Speaking voice and Diction 
Studio, 152 West 57th Street, New York 
Telephone Circle 1350 


Lit. 
STAGE 








Edith Coburn Noyes School 


Oral Engli_-h Drama 
Character Education 
Analysis and Interpretation of Literature, 

Voice, Diction. 


Costume and scenic Design, Lighting, Play 
Production, Modern Art Technique, Fully 





Equipped Little Theatre. 

Personal Culture, Individual Development 
and Balance, Psychology, Pedagogy, French 
(Yersin Method). Seventeenth year opens 
September 29. 


Edith Coburn Noyes, Principal 
Symphony Chambers, Boston 

















THE BINGHAMTON TRAINING SCHOOL 

An ideal private home-school for nervous, back- 
ward and mental defectives. No age limit. Phys- 
ieal Culture. Manual training and all branches. 
Open year around. Terms $75 per month. 

MR. and MRS. AUGUST A. BOLDT, Supt. 

New York, Binghamton, 114 Fairview Ave. 


Tea Room Mana¢erts in Big Demand 


Hundreds of new tea rooms, cafeterias, lunch rooms, 
‘motor inns, now opening every week are crying for 





trained managers. Shortage acute. We receive 
daily calls for managers, assistant managers, 
hostesses, buyers, etc.—men and 


table directors, 
women. EARN $5,000 THIS YEAR. You can 
qualify in a few chest weeks with the Lewis System 
of Spare-Time Training—and we put you in touch 
with big opportunities. ie J today for FREE 
BOOK ‘‘Pouring Tea for 

is INSTITUTE 


rofi 
E TEA ROOM 
Dept. D-5650 Washington, D. C. 


MAKE MONEY RUNNING A TEA-ROOM 
We train you to organize and manage a TEA- 


ROOM, MOTORINN, 

TE eae) OM CAFETERIA, BITE- 
Ps 4 

TRAINING Correspondence 

Courses. Training 


Wonderful 
personally gow ~ Helen a —— Originator 








Resident and 





of Tea-Room Train Boo 
TEA-ROOM TRAINING ORGANIZATION 
33 W. 42nd St., New York 












MASTER INSTITUTE 
OF UNITED ARTS 
US EE OPERA Clone 


AR RA Ar oness 


HITE! 
BA SLLET—DRAMA—LECTU 
“To Open the Door to Beauty”’ 


Send for Catalogue Vv 
310 Riverside Drive, New York City 














Che NEW YORK SCHQOL 


oO 
INTERIOR: DECORATI oN? 
441 MADISON AVE-NEW YORK 


SHERRILL Wurton, Director 
PRACTICAL TRAINING. COURSE 
Fall Term Starts October 1st 
A four months course in_ period 
styles, color harmony, selection and 
use of furniture, fabrics, etc. Also 
professional and design courses. 

Send for Catalogue 43. 














N. Y. SCHOOL OF FINE & APPLIED ART 
Frank —_ Parsons, 


Pres.—-Begins Sept. 5th 
York—Paris—London—F lorence 

Interior "heditoutune and Decoration; Costume, 

Stage and Poster Design; Teachers’ Training 


Saturday Courses, etc. Circulars. 
Address Sec., 2239 Broadway, N. Y. 





SCHOOL of DESIGN 
and LIBERAL. ART. 

212 West 59th St.,N. Y. C. Phone - eghad 
Interior Decoration: Costume Illustraticn 


\ Lectures and demonstrations by Professionals. 
Period styles, color fabrics, costume, furni- 
_ Four months intensive training courses. 
Tr no’ 





THE SEELEY SCHOOL OF 
INTERIOR DECORATION 
Intensive practical course, and advanced course, 
with lectures and workshop training daily. 
Morning or evening session beginning October first. 


748 Madison Avenue, N. Y. C. 





Intensive Course in 


DRESS DESIGNING 


teers OF FRENCH _ 
nch Institute in the U. 
599 Finn Ave. (at 48th St.), ae "York 











Bathsheba Askcwith 
RUSSIAN ACTRESS 
Announces the opening of her New Season 
Stage, Screen, Pantomime and Dancing. Oppor- 
tunities for professional engagements with the 
Askowith Players are available to our students. 
Originator of the THREE GRACES. 
A method for the developing of Personality, 
Poise and Charm of Conversation. 

Studio V 162 West 48th St. 
New York City Bryant 1469 


Beauty, 








SPECIAL SCHOOLS 














Traphagen School of Fashion 


Co-operating with the Trade 
The first and only art 
school in America which 
bridges the gulf between 
the amateur and the pro- 
fessional. Init thesschool 
and business house are 
combined. 

All phases from elementary 
to complete mastery of cos- 
tume designing and illus- |} 
trating are taught in short- 
est time compatible with 
thoroughness. Specializing 
has materially added to the 
strength of this School. 
Write now for announcement V. Address 


ETHEL TRAPHAGEN || 
Rodin Studios 
200 West 57th St. 

















New York | 











Give Yourself the Once-Over 


Are you sure your appearance always gives pleasure? 

It isn’t merely being in style. 

It isn’t how much you spend for clothes. 

There are basic Art Principles that answer your ever 
question if you only knew them. 


“Charm and Artistry in Dress” 


Our new course for women explains lines, masses, and 
colors in dress, relates Art Principles to raiment, give 
diagram to show just how, and lets you into Art secret 
by which you may dress more smartly at less expense. 

99 pages entirely different from “fashion” notes. 

300 illustrated diagrams prove every statement. 

The whole set of zo lessons sent at once for $5.00. 





THE CHICAGO ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS 
81 East Madison Street Chicago, Ill. 


The NewSchoolof Design, Inc. 


Douglas John Connah, President. 15th year. 
School of Drawing and Painting 

School of Illustration 

School of Costume 

School of Interior Decoration 

School of Applicd Design and Normal Training 
Intensive two year diploma course. Instruction hy 
Specialists. Immediate reservation advised. Classes 
begin September 2nd. Booklet on request. 

248 Boylston St., 1680 Broadway 
Boston, Mass. New York, N 











YALE SCHOOL OF THE FINE ARTS 
Yale University, New Haven, Conn. 
Four year courses in Architecture— 
Interior Decoration— Painting—Sculpture 
Illustrated Catalogue. 

















2——ALVIENE=—"= 
UNIVERSITY SCHOOL 30th YEAR 

FP DRAMA—OPERA—VOICE 
MUSIC—DANCE ART=—SCREEN 
Eminent faculty of professional 
teachers and _ stage directors 
including Rose Coghlan, late 
with Belasco; Roy Cochran, late 
with Ethel and John Barrymore, 
and Claude M. Alviene, who has 
ag taught Mary Pickford, Laurette 
J.J. Shubert Taylor, Mary Nash, Florence 
Nash, Eleanor Pulaeer, Alice Joyce, and others. 
Write for booklet to Secretary, Extension 10, stat- 
ing study desired, 43 West 72nd St., N. v.€; 


DIRECTORS 


Martin Harvey 


co 





American Academy of DramaticArt 
The leading institutionfor Dramatic and Express- 
ional Training in America. For information 


apply to 
SECRETARY, 251U Carnegie Hall, New York, N.Y. 





BOSTON SCHOOL OF INTERIOR DECORATION 
Correspondence Courses 
Course A—Professional Training Courses. 
Course B—Domestic Course—How to Plan Your 
Own House. 
Enrollment limited—Write for Prospectus 
Address P. O. Bcx 143, Boston (Copley Station), Mass. 


METROPOLITAN ART SCHOOL 
58 West 57th Street, New York City 


“The Art of Color’’ by Michel Jacobs now on sale. 
Classes in Life—Portrait—Poster—Costume design 
—Interior decoration. 

Morning, Afternoon, Evening and Sunday 


NATIONAL SCHOOL OF FINE 


AND APPLIED ART 
Felix Mahony, Pres. 
Interior Decoration. Costume, Commercial Poster & 
Textile Design. Illustration and Life, etc. Catalog. 
Connecticut Ave. and M St., Washington, D. C. 











INTENSIVE COURSES IN 
MILLINERY 
COSTUME DESIGN 
DRESSMAKING 


Pratt INSTITUTE (Box C) BROOKLYN, N, Y. 


DESIGNING and MILLINERY 


Dressmaking and Pattern Cutting taught for whole- 
sale, retail or home use. Day and Evening courses 
Call or write for particulars. McDowell Dress- 








No Branches. 


making and Millinery School. Established 1876. 
58 West 40th St., New York 
















ST. LOUIS SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS 
Courses in Drawing, Painting, Modeling, Com- 
mercial Art, —e games a Crafts, ete. 


Address E. H. RPEL, Director, Room 12 
WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY, St. Louis. H. 381 





N. Y. PROFESSIONAL SCHOOL OF INTERIOR 
DECORATION 


H. Francis Winter, Director 

Actual Professional Training, Laboratories, Studios, 

Workshops, Visitations, Supplemented with place- 
nent training. 

Regular Courses or Extension Training 

Quarterly Class Send for booklet. 


ses nue 
School Building 28 East 75th Street, N. Y. C zz, 














Oistinctive Millinery is the Mark of 
a Well Dressed Woman 


Learn to create your own exclusive styles in 
thoroughly practical and well-equipped schoo 
under the personal direction of an expert. 

Completion of course permits fulfilling respon 
sible, lucrative positions. Day and Evening Classes, 
Booklet upon request. 


ADELAIDE MILLER STUDIC 
20 WEST FORTY-NINTH STREET 
NEW YORK CITY (Just off Fifth Avenue) 








AS 

Wi} Costume Design 
Millinery Design 
Fashion Illustration 


Fall registration now going 





















on. Largest, most famous —Ys; Wie 
school. Graduates holding Snail jj Tho 
highest-salaried positions in : secre 
the field. Individual in- , di The 
struction under direction of Tild 
Emil Alvin Hartman. Limited if | oF lig 
enrollment—so call or write h , i: 
for information early. f . =, 
{ x) ates 
FASHION ence sn execu 
4 Fast 53rdSt. 1/22. Broad { Iie 
NowYorkCity Philadelphia Pal (i / Hus 
- 3s «105 \ 
T 





September 15 




















SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS 








DENISHAWN 


Ruth St. Denis and Ted Shawn 
School of Dancing and its Related Arts 


Fall Courses Open Oct. 6th 


Beginning, Intermediate and Advanced Classes 





Denishawn recognizes and endeavors to use 

everything vital and beautiful that has ever FIVE BRANCHES 
been contributed to the art of the dance by NEW YORK 
any peoples of any age. LOS ANGELES 


Short Courses Always Open 





Illustrated Catalog Upon Request 
327 West 28th St. Katuarane Epson, Director New York 








‘SEROVA —MOORE-GAYNOR— 3 
SCHOOL OF DANCING 
a KIND HEARTS 


Gertrude C. Moore, Late Director of 


children's 
i ‘our: 
Baby Work ro Denishawn School of Dancing. 
Text-books ND 


Imperis] Method Winter Course, October Ist to May 8th. 
Training ou toes 30 weeks, 3 hours a day—d days a week 
Normal Courses —private lessons—-$400. 


June Ist. 
Write for BookletV Address the Director 


3867 West 8th Si., Los Angeles, Cal. 


For every social situation, Vogue’s Book of 
Etiquette offers a convenient reference to the 
oa RR a IE SAM sophisticated, a very present help to the humble, 
pap ehprd fess and a discreet little sermon on good manners 


47 West 72nd Street New nts ‘ TAGE DANCIW iat gay an Site dlong youth. 
: oe CHALIF om oy WALTER BANER It is no dry tome of prunes and prisms. It is 


Russian School Se Formerly Dancing Master for . F " - ° 
of DANCING Ves. ‘Ziegfeld Follies, John Cort, written in charming vein. Intensely practical, 
Art jz: Chas. Dillingham, Lee & J. ; - 
IN = J. Shubert, Geo. M. Cohan, but not too serious about it. Eagerly helpful to 
Dancing | US others. Teacher of Marilynn . x 

ae. Tamnenks | Twine. those who want assistance, but slyly humourous 


FOO Ean a 5 energy Florence Walton and hundreds 
. 0 others. 00K ie! ree, 4 ~ “ 
Cotaiog Ane, Peniows. 900 7th Ave., NY. Circle 8290 when it deals with pretensions. It approaches 
163-165 W. 57th St., N.Y. etiquette from a brand new viewpoint: not as 

a code of rigid and damning laws, but as an 


iecmaemnaniammmeretes sles: ade. C - Z EILL expression of the consideration and taste of 
DANCING For Stage or Classic—National—Folk—Rhythmic—Ball Room well bred people. 


Social Affairs **To Miss O’Neill I owe my success.’’ 
Mrs. Vernon Castle 


Pri Lessons or Classes : 4 . 
"Sgial Advanced in scton for feashers 46 Madison Ave., N. Y. Phone Rhinelander 6770 And yet, until you have read Vogue’s Book of 
Sakae ceo wer teaee * Etiquette, how will you be certain that your 


NED WAYBURN ADELAIDE & HUGHES manner confirms the goodness of your feelings? 


Studios of Stage Dancing, Inc. Studio of Dance 
1841 Broadway Entrance on : k “Class and private instruction in all styles of i oF 5 
“60th Street New Yor dancing. Complete training in stage dancing. Fall How will your fair intent master a delicate 
a 9 SSS 1 er eoneenene & — a — sa rc will start October 1st. ‘ P ) H il] f f k be d b 
b yrite for Bookle oy 
; 45 West 57th St. Plaza 7535 situation! ow wi your use O OrKS abide y 


Perry-Mansfield Camp the kindness of your heart? 
Steamboat Springs, Colo. KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL 


Normal and Professional Courses 

s Outdoor Classic Dancing, Cos- of SECRETARIAL AND EXECUTIVE 
s* tuming, Design, Stage Setting. ny $ 

Modeling, Dramatics. Training for Educated Women 4, 


Recreation Camp 
Horseback riding, Swimming, Boston New York Providence 


Tennis. 
klet. - 
vai "Gee an ™ B A | z AR D Register Now For 


SCHOOL satan st yor VOGUES 
OLD COLONY SCHOOL BOOK. OF ETIQUETTE 


Secretarial and Business Training 
For Young Women Graduates of 
Private School, High School or College 
One Year Course prepares for Executive Positions or 
Management of Personal Property 

RESIDENT AND DAY STUDENTS VOGUE 
TELORENCE, B, LAMOREAUX, A. Bot” 
MRS. MARGARET FOWLER 19 West 447TH StrReET, New Yor« 
315-317 Beacon Street, Boston, Massachusetts 





M. Veronine Vestoff Mile. Sonia Serova 





















































at all book stores 











Vel fs tl ea 


‘1 


Rd 


MISS CONKLIN’ 


SECRETARIAL SCHOOL 
Professional Training 


Please send me one copy 
of Vogue’s Book of Etiquette. 


[@frited States. : I inclose $4. 
Secretarial. School ; 


527 Fifth Avenue, New York City 
Secretarial & Business training: Ask for Catalog V: 
Irving Edgar Chase, Director, Vanderbilt 2474 


TheE' RSK INE. scHoat 


Academie and Practical Courses for Young Women 
of College Age 


Residence Houses. For Booklet, address 
E. E. McC.LintTock, 129 Beacon St., BOSTON 





Thorough professional training for 
secretaryships and executive positions, 
The School occupies the Studios o. th 

Tilden Building; classrooms jean 
upon aroof garden have abundance 
ot light and fresh air. 

The Bureau of Placement is recog- 
nized feature of the School. ‘Come: 
ates are sought for responsible and 
executive positions. 

Applications received for fall Courses, 
Illustrated booklet. . ‘i 

105 Wesé 40th Street, New York 


Telephone Pennsylvania 3758 


q 





bs) bey ea eel ed yea 























Fa it ft | 














> mamma fie eta MA ev fase 





48 


THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 





VOGUE s 
















VERY year, a handful of travelers have the 
experience supreme. But only a handful. 
They are the company which ships one day 

on a Canadian Pacific Empress. 

When they return, they are new people. Happy 
in health. Glowing with adventure. Laden with 
treasures from far-off bazars. Expanded in per- 
sonality to the breadth of the earth. 

For, they’ve voyaged to the Gateway Ports of 
the World. What magic in the phrase! What 
magic in the experience! Sailing along, as if in a 
floating country club. Comes a star on the map. 
A Gateway Port. Into the harbor, and off for ex- 
ploration...Shopping in the bazars. Mingling in 
the streets. Out to some tombs, to some deserted 
town which reconstructs a thousand years of his- 
tory... hen, on again, over the seven seas, to the 
next Gateway Port, the next romantic experience. 


ANADIAN PACIFIC CRUISES 


“Batavia, Gateway to Java...Isle of mystery. An- 
cient temples on plains, in jungles, on peaks. 
What ancients built so grandly? How? Why?... 
Java, isle of paradise. Lovely verdure and water- 
falls. Rubber plantations. Cities like parks, shops 


You. have the experience supreme? 





where batik-work is done. Bazars offering carven 
teakwood. Graceful dancing girls. Java, home of 
the Buitenzorg Botanical Gardens, where orchids 
grow 1000 blossoms at atime, and strange plants 
riot in beauty. Java, the isle with a spell. 


Algiers, Egypt, Holy Land, India, Ceylon, China. 

Canadian Pacific has arranged these ports into 
several voyages. The ship is Canadian Pacific— an 
Empress liner. The service is Canadian Pacific— 
luxurious living. The guidance is Canadian Pacific 
—‘it spans the world.” 

Where these gateway ports are, what they lead 
to, how the cruises are arranged—all is told in fas- 
cinating literature. Write, phone, call offices listed 
below. Personal service if desired. 


CRUISE EXTRAORDINARY 
ROUND -THE-WORLD 


from New York, January 14th, 130 days, including 53 far shore trips, 
with overland trips to Jerusalem and Cairo, to Peking. Returning 
via Hawaii, Vancouver, San Francisco, Panama. “Empress of France.” 
(Chosen for two voyages by Lord Renfrew—Prince of Wales.) 


MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE 
from New York, February 9th, 62 days. “Empress of Scotland.” (Her 


fourth cruise in these waters.) 


ATLANTA, 49 N. Forsyth St.- BosTon, 405 Boylston St.- BUFFALO, 160 Pearl St.- Cu1caGo, 71E. Jackson Blvd. - CINCINNATI, 201 Dixie Term. Bldg. - CLEVELAND, 1040 Prospect Ave. 


DETROIT, 1239 Griswold St. - DULUTH, Soo Line Depot - 


Kansas City, 601 Ry. Exch. Bldg. - Los ANGELES ,605 So. Spring St. - St. Louis, 420 Locust St. + MINNEAPOLIS, 611 2nd Ave., So. 


New York, 342 Madison Ave. - PHILADELPHIA, Locust St. at 15th - PITTSBURGH , 340 6th Ave. - PORTLAND, ORE., §5-3rd St.» SAN FRANCISCO, 675 Market St. - SEATTLE, 608 2nd Ave. 


TACOMA, 1113 Pacific Ave - WASHINGTON, D.C , 1419 N. Y. Ave. - IN CANADA:— MonTREAL, 141 St. James St. - St. JoHN, N. B., 40 King St. - WINNIPEG, 364 Main - 


ToRONTO, 


1 King St., E. » VANCouvER, Canadian Pacific R R Sta.—Oficesand Agents Everywhere, 























HO 


Times Sat 








THE 
Inthe heart 
Under the. 











September 15 

















Indian 





ing of the hounds. 


| at these autumn spas. 


2, rue Edouard VII, Paris 





in the land of 
the blue sky 


HITE SULPHUR, Hot Springs, Pinehurst— 

old names to conjure with. Once sacred to the 
gentlemen and ladies of the Carolinas and Old Vir- 
ginia, now they are loved by all who inherit the dis- 
creet tastes of the Age of Innocence—or who prefer 
the livelier ones of today. Golf, tennis, dancing; 
“the cure”; the glories of horseflesh, and the follow- 


Nowhere in America will you find heartier sports- 
manship, or a more continental flavour of life, than 


Why not, when the first penetrating chill creeps 
under the door—step aboard a Pullman and wake 
up in the southland? There you will find the Little 
| Season at its height, autumn a favoured guest, and the 
| Blue Ridge at its bluest to please you. 


Ask the Travel Man for information. 
reservations, buy your ticket, perform any service, free of 
charge. After whispered consultation with Vogue, he can 
even tell you just what clothes you ought to wear. 


THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 
21 West 44th Street, New York City 
Aldwych House, Aldwych, W. C. 2, London, England 


Summer 


He will make 









































































































































Hotels of Distinction 
NEW YORK 
ANDBOSTON 
Ww 
LS 
—==— a; $y 
ATLANTIC CITY NEW ENGLAND 
% — 
THE RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL q1) 
pene —— pe 3. t Hotel 
"Callens TO Meteor. HOTEL VENDOME 
oston 
Commonweattx Ave. at Dartmouth Sr. 
NEW YORK ELIGHTFULLY SITUATEDIN THE 
= BACK BAY DISTRICT. QUICKLY 
ACCESSIBLE TO THEATRES, SHOPS 
To have stayed at AND POINTS OF INTEREST + + 
HOTEL ASTOR CH.GREENLEAF CO, Props. 
is to have lived in New York 
Times Square—Broadway, 44th & 45th St. 
pC 
PHILADELPHIA BOSTON = 
Hotels where the serviceandatmos- = 
on sommaraa phere is like a well-ordered home. = 
Phitadsighia The BRUNSWICK The LENOX = 
teckeen BAS eng = fn ath at On either side of Copley Square = 
Under the direction of DAVID B. PROVAN | = 














centile 

































Illustrations Copyright by Children’s Vogue 





Do You Subscribe To 
CHILDREN’S VOGUE? 


A Condé Nast publication .. . 
edited for the mothers of delight- 
ful children . . . who, we hope, will 
grow up to be readers of Vogue or 
Vanity Fair. 


VERY MOTHER needs Children’s Vogue, 

in order to dress her children with smart sim- 
plicity. It sets the fashionable standard of little 
girls’ clothes up to the age of fourteen, and little 
boys’ clothes up to the age of twelve. It will show 
you how to make your little girl charming and 
feminine, though not conscious of her clothes— 
and your little boy picturesque, without his know- 
ing it. 
Paces of incomparable patterns bring the best 
children’s fashions to your own sewing room. 


But Critpren’s VocueE isn’t all clothes. Chil- 
dren’s books are discussed, their parties are 
planned, their rooms are furnished, their toys, 
food, music, and training are taken up practically — 
though not zoo seriously. In short, it covers the 
interests of the youngsters just as Vogue covers the 
interests of the generation that has already arrived. 


If you buy Children’s Vogue on 
the news stands it costs you thirty- 
five cents a copy, or $4.20 during 
the course of two years. ... Why 
not subscribe to our special offer of 
two years for $3. . . and save $1.20 
on the transaction . . . plus lots of 
trouble? 





Published 6 times a year 35 cents a copy $2. a year 
CHILDREN’s VoGUE, Mrs. 
Greenwich, Connecticut PIN 2s nose cab sapcoladcdstas  posecsestavend -neoameutpiasiaatg+ ax: 
Mr. 
Please send me Children’s 
Vogue, beginning with the yO OEE nd te ORE EP min on ne A Tea 


next issue. I prefer (check 


alternative). 


(1 year $2 (]2 years $3 


You may dispose of the whole affair at once by enclosing your remittance . . 


it saves time and prevents inconvenient errors 
V. 9-15-24 














































































50 


SeroOrTrrren. 


AN D 








Sawtcn 





























Antiques 





EXCEPTIONAL ANTIQUE FURNITURE 
and individual reproductions. Rare old fabrics, 
tapestries. Our location permits modest prices. 
The Decorators Sales Corp., 244 E. 52nd St., N.Y.C. 


A classified list of business concerns which we 
recommend to the patronage of our readers 


Shoppers’ & Buyers’ Guide, VOGUE, 19 West Forty-fourth Street, New York. 


Advert’sirg rates given upon request 











Famous old pieces from French & Spanish genera- 
tions. We have an entreé into oldest, most au- 
thentic sources Southern heirlooms. Photos & ue- 
scriptions. Vasseo, 12 So. Catherine St., Mobile, Ala. 








Arts and Crafts 


CANADIAN Handwoven HOMESPUNS, _Blan- 
kets, Spreads, vege oro for work among French 
Canadian Peasantr Handi- 
craft Guild, 598 St. Catharine St., W. Montreal. 


CANADIAN HOMESPUNS, from looms of French 
habitants. Samples, state colors. Murray Bay 
Blankets, tufted bedspreads, table covers, etc. 
Canadian Homespuns, 347 Craig West, Montreal. 

















Art-Needlework 


Exclusive Italian Linens. Reticello Cutwork cop- 
ied from classic, antique designs adapted to modern 
uses. Dinner, Lunch, Tea, Bridge Tray Sets. All’Arte 
del Lino, 177 Macdougal St. nr. Washn. Sq., N.Y. 


RUSSIAN Nobility Art Embroidery—Ladies’ & 
Children’s dresses. New Fall Models. Paris Impor- 
tations. Russian Refugee Workshop 
104 West 57th Street, N. Y. Circle 10163. 


Handwork Shop-ALNWICK BEDSPREADS, House- 
hoid Linens, Imported Needlework, Ladies’ Dresses 
& Blouses, Children’s Clothes. Stop in when motor- 
ing. On State Rd., 62 Market St., Poughkeepsie, N.Y. 











ing seasons. 
ions of autumn. 


ience. 


perplexities. 





IN EVERY SEASON 


You have noticed how each of these distinctive shops 
dresses its little announcement window with the chang- 
This season they are reflecting the fash- 


If you follow the news of the shops listed here for help 
in your shopping you will be amazed at the variety of 
suggestions for odd and unusual accessories, unique 
favors for bridge and dinner parties, or beautiful bits of 
lace or embroidery for your favourite frock! 


Use this service that Vogue maintains for your conyen- 
Its primary purpose is to be of help to you and 
to the advertiser. It can solve many of your shopping 








PETIT POINT CHAIR COVERS. 
Authentic reproductions of famous tapestries hand- 
made under the personal supervision of experts from 
the Viennese Kunsthistorisches Museum. A_ wide 
selection insures. harmony with any scheme of decora- 
tion. Also wail tapestries. Inquiries invited from 

dealers and decorators 
Weinman & Oelbaum, 28 East 10th Street, N.Y.C. 








Auction Bridge 











Beauty Culture—Cont. 


Candies & Delicacies 





EYEBROWS & LASHES permanently attractive. 
Darkened with Coloura! Adds winsome expression. 
Will not wash off. $1.20 ppd. Treatinent 50c. at 
Spiro’s. 26 West 38th St., & 34 W. 46th St., N. Y. 


Serve Ming Cha Tea—Iced. More than a tea 

a tea-wine! Large, beautiful pkg. $1. Delicious 
Rice Wafers $1. Luscious Golden Limes $1.25. (All 
three $3.) Elizabeth Lee, 2 West 28th Ss. Z. 





SUPERFLUOUS HAIR _ permanently aiid by 
the painless method originated by Dr. Roebling 

Jeyser, a licensed physician. This is the 14th year 
of its successful use. No electric needle or chemical 





Lillian Sherman Rice, 231 W. 96th St., N. Y.] used. Booklet sent in plain sealed envelope upon 
Author ‘‘Auction Bridge in a Nutshell.’’ Private & | request. Dr. Roebling Geyser. 

Classes. Game taught in 6 lessons. Also by mail. 107 East 35th St., New York City 
inferences. Concentration a specialty. 1464 River. 2001 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
YOUR OWN NAME on Bridge Scores. 250] LUCILLE SAVOY TOILETRIES OF QUALITY 
officially ruled sheets, 6x9 in. Your name on each | Blended Shades of Exquisite Poudre beautifying 
sheet. Postpaid anywhere, $2. Agents wanted. | complexions, $1.50 i postpaid. Astor Theatre 


Beach Company, 904 Sycamore, Cincinnati, O. 


Bldg. (Times Sq.), N. Y. Chickering 6130. 





Children’s Things 


TOT’S TOGGERIE, 634—5th Ave, N. Y. Tel. 
Circle 9708-9709. Outfitters to Children of all 








ages. Coats and Hats Made to Order a Specialt 
Charming Styles and Superior Workmanship. 4 
NANA, LTD. 
24 East 66th Street, New York 
Infants’ and Children’s Dresses 


made to individual order. 











LIDA FISHER GILDER—140 West 57th Street. 
Auction Bridge (Whitehead System). Mah Jong. 


Dorothy Sedley’s Preparatione—No-w rik creme. 
Feeds & invigorates skin. Quickly removes lines 


SMALLCLOTHES, GENESEO, N. Y. 


Picturesque little suits ‘and frocks for well-dressed” 





Private and class lessons for advanced students. | of age. Ends sallow complexions. Price $3.50. | children. Beautifully mad f the best 
Beginners tutored. Tel. Circle 3053. Hotel Majestic, West 72nd St., N. Y: at moderate prices. Tilustrated dooutintion med 
SHEPARD’S STUDIO, INC., 20 W. 54th St., N.Y.| STUDY Scientific Facial Treatment. Marcelling, THE CHILDREN’S SHOP, 


College of Auction Bridge. Expert personal in- 
struction for individuals or classes, beginners or 
advanced players. Special course by mail. 


Shingle Bobbing & all branches of beauty work. 
Brush-Up & Full Day Course. New Classes forming. 
Mme. Hudson School Beauty Culture, Auburn, N.Y. 











Babies Things 


Three in One-KIRIA CREME. Astringent, Bleach 

& Tissue Builder. Kironglia og the nails $1.50. 

Rubis (liquid) for the lips $1.0 

Elizabeth Walker, 43 W. sath St., New York 
INVENTION. 





HAND MADE baby garments by French needle- 

work artists. Fine materials. Dainty, exquisite. 

Domestic prices. Infants to 3 years. On approval. 
Conway’s, 1200 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans. 


Magic Face Lifter. ACTRESS 
Restores youthful contour without stretching skin. 
Matches hair, no wire, no spring, soft & pliable. 
Sadie MacDonald, 1482 Broadway, Room 609, N. Y. 





VIRGINIA’S AIR OF REFINEMENT retlected 
in handmade children’s wear to 3 years. Layettes 
and French Bonnets specialty. No catalog. On 
approval. Ideal Baby & Gift Shop, Roanoke, Va. 


SUPERFLUOUS ape igang | destroyed. 
Painless electric needle or New Ray Method. Phy- 
sician’s references. Written guarantee. Florence 
Woodley, 507—5th Ave., N. Y. Tel. Vand. 2340 





HOMESPUN BABY BLANKETS—the ideal gift 
woven by hand from the softest wool—Blue, pink, 
or buff. Can be washed—30x40—$5.00. 36x50—$7.5u. 
Means Weave Shop, Lowell, Mass. 





MME. JULIAN’S HAIR DESTROYER perma- 
nently eradicates all superfluous hair (with roots). 
No electricity or poison. Stood test 50 years. 
Mme. Julian 14 West 47th Street, N. Y. 


20 East 46th Street, New York. 
Tel. Murray Hill 0779. Boys’ suits to 4. years. 
Girls’ frocks to 14 years—From original sketches. 
FLORENCE et FELICITE—693 Madison Ave., N. Y 
Rhinelander 7036; late with Mossé. . Individual 
& smart Dresses & Coats up to 14 yrs. Boys’ suits 
& coats up to 6 yrs. Infants’ Wear. 


LITTLE GIRLS’ DRESSES & PARTY FROCKS, 
Distinctive, individual designs, modish materials. 
Appointment by ’phone. Florence Brett 
403 West End Ave., N. Y., Tel. Endicott 9622. 


YOUTHFUL FASHIONS, 4 West 50th St., N. 
You’ll be prouder than ever of the children’ attired 
in our distinctive, unusual dresses. Made to 
measure from models. Misses sizes also. 
PINKY WINKY. The little doll that rolls her 
eyes. Dressed in organdie, twenty inches tall. 
Walks, says Mama. Postpaid $3.75 

Madame Georgene 309—5Sth Ave., N. Y. 




















Beads and Beaded Bags 


BEADS and accessories—all kinds for bags, dresses, 
neckleces, antique bag patterns, etc. Bead Bags 
repaired. Send stamp for catalog & prices. 

Joe Michel, 37 West 39th St., N. Y¥. City. " 
Exclusive Models Made-te-Order in silks, tapes- 
tries, brocades; recoverings a specialty. Send for 
Catalog and prices. Schuyler 1518. Wm. Nibur, 
2432 B’way, N. Y. Branch, 667 Madison Avenue 


REPAIRING OF SILK AND BEADED BAGS. 











Frames for Beaded Bags. Silk bags to order. 
Catalogue upon request. A. IL. orkman, 
1 West 34th Street, N. Y. C. 








Beauty Culture 


FERROL’S REDUCING LOTION, unexcelled for 
reducing Bust, Hips, Waistline, etc. dorless, 
easily applied; unfailing results. $3.00 per bottle, 
3 for $8.00. Ferrol, 200 West 72nd St., N. Y. 
MME. MAYS treatments for permanently removing 
wrinkles, scars, freckles, tightening muscles, given 
only at my one address, 50 W. ms e . F,. 
Bryant 9426. Booklet. Physicians’ endorsement. 
MARINELLO SHOP 
A Beauty Aid for every need. 
Marinello Experts in Attendance. 
Under direct supervision ef Marinello Co. 
MARINELLO 











Eastern Expert Dept. 
366 Fifth Ave., Suite 603 
Chicago, Ti. New Yor’ 


Ab-scent—Ideal liquid, colorless, deodorant. Rem- 
edies excessive perspiration. Destroys odors harm- 
lessly. Cannet irritate. All stores or direct by 
_ mail 50c. Madame Berthe, 562—5th Ave., N. Y. 
SAGGING FACES LIFTED PERFECTLY. 
Wrinkles smoothed out, contour restored at once. 
Device worn concealed by hair. Book V_ free. 
The Faceaid Studios, 1482 Broadway, New York. 


Western Expert Dept. 
804 Tower Court Bidg. 








Superfluous Hair Gone in 1st treatment. Licensed 
Physician & Dermatologist specializes in Permanent 
removal of undesirable hairs from face, neck, limbs, 
etc. No chemicals, no needles used. Harmless 
unique treatment. Most extensive practice in 
America. Corres. invited. Free Bkit. ‘“K’’ in plain 
sealed envelope. Free confidential consultation. M. 
J. Rush, M.D., at Dermic Institute, 347 5th Ave., N.Y. 


PERMANENT REMOVAL of Superfluous HAIR 
After 25 years of painstaking 
research by a famous “ae 

at Cornell, Fordham and Polyclinic 
HE TRICHO INSTITUTE 
244 West 74th Street, New York 
presents a 6 Treatment 
Method backed by a 
life-long guarantee. 
Three physicians and nurses in attendance 
Consultation Free 
or booklet on request. 








Have clear healthy skin. YOUTH-AMI 
Liquid Skin Peel removes blemished skin harm- 
lessly, painlessly. ‘ookle free. Youth-Ami 
Laboratories, Dept. VS, 30 East 20th St., N. Y. 
WRINKLES? Baume Re d’ion restores by nature’s 
method youth’s radiant firmness. Constituent oils 
revitalize skin without pueesites it. Leona Libbé, 
1367 East 16th St., B’klyn, N. Y., Dewey 10199 


Bed Quilts 


BEAUTIFUL PATCHWORK QUILTS $9.85 Can- 
dlewick Spreads $5.65. Pure Wool blanket cloth 
White or Colors $2.25 yd. Write for orem 














CHILDREN’S VOGUE is a smart new magazine 
for mothers about children. It enables children to 
be most economically dressed in the smartest French 
and American modes. Games, songs, suggestions 
for parties, children’s book reviews, doll cut-outs, 
and all sorts of things. $3.00 for Twelve issues. 
Dept. A. Children’s Vogue, 19 West 44th Street, 
New York City 





SMART FROCKS FOR TINY TOTS 
made to individual order from $12.50 up. Samples 
and designs submitted. Mail orders a_ specialty. 

Jessica Smith, 37 West 48th St., N. Y. 





ADELE MAXIMILIAN, 267 W. Itith St., N. Y. 
Children’s Newest Modes—Moderately Priced. Girls 








& Misses—Boys to 4. (Sketches). Dresses of soft, 
hand woven wool, in stripes, all colors. 
Chintzes 





The Chintz Shop, 431 Madison Ave., N.Y.C. Every- 
thing in Chintz, Linen, Cretonne. 4914 Maryl’d 
Av., St. Louis, Mo. 6 Elm St., Morristown, N. 

2521 Salem Av., Cincin., O.,114 So. 20th St., Phila. 








Christmas Cards 


QUAINT gh Artistic Christmas Cards. 
d one dollar for $3.00 va'ue. 

ge eards for hand-coloring. 

Box 2, 1316 Euclid St., Washington, 





D. C. 








Elizabeth Finlay, 932 Hinman Ave., 








Bon Voyage Baskets 


Something Thrilling in blue paper and yellow 
string. That’s what people say about gifts from 
the Alice H. Marks Shon. Our steamer vanity & 








convalescent bskts. are unique. 4 W. 50th St., N.Y. 





Cleaning & Dyeing 





KNICKERBOCKER Cleaning & Dyeing % 
High class cleaners and dyers. Main Office, 402 E. 
Rist St., N. Y. C. Branch offices in N. Y. City, also 


White Plains, New Rochelle, Newport & Paris. 





Cleaning & Dyeing—Cont. 





LEWANDOS—Cleaners—Dyers 
Largest in America 
Established in 1829 

10 West 48th Street, New York 
LEWANDOS—Cleaners—Dyers 
284 Boylston Street, Boston 

1901 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia 
Shops in all large Eastern Cities 








Corsets and Brassiéres 





MME. S. SCHWARTZ—Now 36 W. 57th St., 
N. Y., formerly 11 East 47th Street. 
Custom made and all novelties in Corsets for the 
Woman of Fashion. 


GOSSARD CORSET SHOP (Retail) Headquarters 
for Gossard Corsets for all figures. Youthful lines 
assured when properly fitted by our Gossard-trained 
Corsetiéres, Remarkable values $3.50 up. Madame 





X Rubber Reducing Girdles; Elastic, non-lacing 
Clasp-Arounds; Combinations; Brassiéres, etc. 
Olmstead Corset Shop, Madison Ave., 


179 
at 34th Street, N. Y¥Y. Tel. Ashland 6642. 


GOSSARD Corset Fitting Parlor, 601 Mad. Ave., 
N. Y., at 57th St. Fitted by Gossard Corsetiére at 
shop or residence. Corsets to order. Mail orders by 
measurement solicited. Plaza 4949. DeRohan, Prop. 
LOUISE GREENWOOD—CORSET EXPERT 
French, Domestic & Elastic Corsets Copied. Made to 
order. Kemodeled, copied & cleaned. Mail corset 
for estimate. 500-5th Ave., N. Y. Longacre 8173. 














Damages on Clothing Made Invisible 





MOTH-HOLES, Tears, Burns on garments mado 
invisible by re-weaving. Shine on clothing perma- 
nently removed. Guarantee Damage Weaving Co., 
146-5th Ave., bet. 19th & 20th Sts., N. Y. 








Dancing 


HELENE L. SWENEY, N. Y. City 

Expert in Modern Dances, teaching gentlemen to 

lead; ladies to follow; correcting all faults. Special 
Normal Course. Diplomas. Regent 8193. 


ETUDE de DANSE 
Tango—modern—ballroom dances 
Private or class lessons. 

26 West 47th St. N. 

SHELTON DEWEY 
Modern dance expert and authority 
Private or class lessons. By appointment. 
267 Madison Ave., N. Y., Tel. Murray Hill 5397. 





9 E. 59th St., 





Bryant 4562 7. 











Dramatic Art 


THEODORA IRVINE. Director of Irvine Players. 

Teacher of Alice Brady. Approved by Edith W. — 

Matthison. A course in acting. Oct. to May 31. 
Studio, 31 Riverside Drive, N. Y. 











Employment Agencies 


on er tale INC., 624 ee AVE. 
C. (59th St.) Plaza 902: 
A e...§ ‘fasetiation supplying a pr 
clientele with superior domestic help. 











Entertainment 





PUNCH & JUDY SHOW, Magic Tricks, Games and 
everything for children’ s parties. Delightful show 
well-known entertainer. 


by 
Chas. Winters, 1433 Lex. Ave., N. Y. Lenox 6672 








Fancy Dress and Costumes 





“PRIZE WINNING COSTUMES” 
Modern—Fantastic—Period 
For Rent or Sale-—To Order or From Stock. Bayer- 
Schumacher, 67-69 W. 46th St., N. Y., Bryant 1834. 


Flesh Reduction 


& CORRECT THE FIGURE 
without diet or medicine. We possess every device, 
Electrical & Mechanical, for successful treatment. 
Dr. Savage Institute, 253 Madison Ave. Van. 8593. 


SUPERFLUOUS FLESH REDUCED by modern 
scientific method, without payment until reduction 
if desired. Dr. R. Newman, Licensed Physician, 
286 Fifth Ave. (near 30th St.) New York City. 


A BOOKLET BY DR. DENSMORE 
on treatment for 
reduction of Corpulency 
will be mailed without 
charge a Tequest to 


Dep 
Garfield Tea Co. 
313 41st Street Brooklyn, N. Y. 


WONDERFUL NEW TREATMENT | restores 
beauty, youthful figure, vigor and health. Colon 
irrigation. Results guaranteed. Finlandia Health 
Studio, 17 East 45th St., N. Y. Tel. Mur. Hill 3068. 


MIRACLE RE-DU-CER 
method of reducing. No diet—no 
Endorsed Li physicians. Worn 
corset. Made of pure rubber 
Bust Reducer—$5.00. Hip Reducer—$10.00. By 
mail anywhere in U. S. A. Check or money order. 
Classic Form Co., 

489 Fifth Ave., N. Y. C. 
REDUCE THE NEW WAY! All that puffiness 
gone after a few applications—Then watch / your- 
self go down. A liquid not a grease. Infallible. 
$1.00. Marie Louise, 182 West 72nd St., N. Y. C. 











REDUCE WEIGHT 














The proven 
exercise—no drugs. 
with or without a 





Se 


Exper 
styles 
Sumn 
Hirsh 


wil 
made 
selecté 
reques 





MME. 
misfit 





Mme. | 


ONE 

offered 
tunity 
is not 
an ex 
woman. 
Condé 











MME. 
ash vé 
& stree 





Gor 





HE | 


and ev. 





al 
34 Lex 





6 Ea 








‘THE 
temodel 
Refitted 








Y RE 
f New 
hat see 
omer, 











PREMA 
Ine appl 
ihe hair 
2.00. . 











HY H 
Henna, 
ot rub ¢ 
‘ostpaid 

GRAY 
necto S 
pxture, 
necto § 
F YOU 
hestnut, 
eginnin: 
rancis E 


















ANUEI 
brmation 
1 kinds 
. Manu 
0 RES 
ear a 7 


West 








E 


ALDEY 
rt advic 





FAMOI 
rrespon¢ 
‘ientific 
Ww being 
hile eas 

practi: 
tes of 
Pmand f 
ional wo; 
P00 per 
le Cour: 
d ambi 
Ace for f 
Pfore it 











September 15 














Flesh Reduction—Cont. 


Hats 





ROLL-OFF REDUCING CREAM really reduces; 

3.00 Ib. Refine your skin with my Astringent Skin 

Lotion. $1.1@; Cleansing cream 60c Post-paid. 
Mme. Lillie, Inc. 47 West 42nd St., N. Y. C. 


REMODELER OF HATS “A Hat of Yesterday”’ 
—redesigned into a ‘‘last word’’ creation. Smart new 
Hats to order. Mail Orders a specialty. Prices 
reasonable. Lrene Franks, 37 W. 48th St., N. Y. 





“BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM METHOD 
Ring Roller—Bergonie Chair—Electric Light 
Baths. Dr. Joseph R. Ross. Physio-Therapist, 
°00 Madison Ave., cor. 41st St., N. Y. Van. 6290. 








Furs 





Expert Fur Remodeling & Repairing. Latest 
styles. Also special attention to out-of-town orders. 
Summer prices during September. Est. 1886. 

Hirshfeld Fur Co., Inc. 71 West 46th St., N. Y. C. 


WINTER FURS at SUMMER PRICES 
Due to the late season we are continuing our 
cummer prices through September this__ year. 
Est. 1870. E. E. Baldwin—36 E. 10th St., N.Y.C. 





ELIZABETH SCHOEN 
Hats for the discriminating woman 
at moderate prices. 
16 East 8th St., N. Y. C. (opp. Hotel Brevoort) 


Linens 





Filet roseleaf lace 29c yd. Irish pico 13 yds $1. 
Hand-made Decorative linens froni everywhere. 
Madiera Linen Shop, 77 W. 38 St., N. Y. 
Florence et Félicité, 693 Mad. Ave., N. Y. Rhine- 
lander 7036—late with Mossé. Linens for all pur- 
poses. Bathtowels, mats & washcloths. Ladies’ & 
Gentlemen’s hdkfs. Monograms, sketches submitted. 





Sept. Clearance bargain sheet ready, also cat. V. 


Shoes and Custom Shoes—Cont. 





SHORT VAMP SHOES (Trade Mark) 
stock or to order. First French Boot Shop 
in America. Established 1887. 

Williaw Bernstein, 6 West 37th St., N. Y. Booklet. 
SHORT AND MEDIUM VAMP SHOES 
French and American Models. Round or Pointed 
Toes. Best for High Insteps. Catalog ‘“Y¥’’ 
J. Glassberg, 225 West 42nd Street, New York. 


from 











Violette Hat Shop. 4 East 36th St., N. Y. 
In addition to a complete stock of hats for every 
— we specialize in hats to order in brief 
time. 








Lingerie & Laces 





Hemstitching, Plaiting, Buttons 


REAL LACES—Large assortments of real filet, 
Irish, Cluny, Venice and hand-embroidered nets. 
Mail orders promptly executed. Send for samples. 
The 34th St. Shop. 58 E. 34th St., N. Y. C 





Buttons Covered, Hemstitching, Plaiting. Hem- 
stitching; plain, picot edge, zigzag, curves. Buttons; 
customer's own material. Plaiting all _ styles. 
Mail order catalog. Sadleir, 17 W. 34th St., N. ¥ 


BRIDAL SETS—TROUSSEAUX. Lingerie of best 

quality and style, hand-made, with real Valen- 

ciennes and other fine laces. Moderately priced. 
M. Collart 23 E. 54th St., N. Y. 








Furniture & Furnishings 





“WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART QUILTS 
made of fine satins, silks and sateens, filled with 
selected lamb’s wool. Illustrated Booklet V on 
yequest. Wilkinson Sisters, Ligonier, Indiana. 








Gowns Bought 


CHILDREN’S VOGUE is a smart new magazine 
for mothers about children. It enables children to 
be most economically dressed in smartest 
French and American modes. ... . Also it gives 
mothers carefully selected material to keep their 
children happy. Games, songs, suggestions for 
parties, children’s book reviews, doll cut-outs, and 
all sorts of things that answer the question, 
*“‘Mother, what shall I do now?’’ Send your name, 
address, and $3.00 for twelve issues. 

Dept. A, Children’s Vogue, 19 West 44th Street. 

New York City. 








Maternity Apparel 


Shopping Commissions 





MISS EDITH*V. STOVEL, member of the Asso- 
ciated Purchasing Agents of New York, will shop 
for or with you in leading shops. No eharge. 
98 Morningside Ave., N. Y., Tel. Morningside 7622. 


MRS. SARAH BOOTH DARLING 
Purehasing Agent. Accompanying out-of-town 
patrons. No charge. References. Chaperoning. 

Tel. Endicott 4193 155 W. 78th St., N. Y. 
MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopper, 
will , shop with you send anything to you. 

Send for Magazine 
Services free. 366 Fifth Avenue, New York. 











BERTHE MAY’S MATERNITY CORSETS, 
Belts and Brassiéres. Exclusive and invisible en- 
largement feature. Dress as usual. Write for booklet 
No. 14, Berthe May, 10 E. h St., New York. 


MRS. GEORGETTE DUNBAR EVANS will keep 
you in touch with N. Y.’s advanced modes. Will 
shop for or with you gratis. Chaperoning. Booklet. 
Hotel San Remo, Central Park West, Endicott 6700 





Berthe May’s Maternity Dresses, Layettes 
Exclusive models at reasonable prices. 
Write for Season's portfolio No. 14. 
Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., New York 


“BEAUTIFUL THINGS | SEE’’—Write for Free 
Fashion. Letter with list of bargains. Shops 

for or with you saving time and money. 
Irene Stephens. 144 East 37th Street, New York. 


en. 
iree 





MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant 670, will buy your 
misfit or slightly used street and evening dresses. 
suits, wraps, etc. Highest cash value. Satisfactory 
service to patrons at a distance. 69 W. 45th St., N. Y. 


Hosiery 





Memorials 


BLANCHE ADLER—Formerly of the South, will 
accompany out-of-town patrons. Services gratis. 
Personal attention given mail orders. References re- 
quired, Now at 10 E. 43d St., N. Y. Tel. Van. 2360. 





WE PAY CASH 
For Wearing Apparel & Jewelry 
Full value. Highest prices guaranteed ‘ 
Mme. Furman, 101 W. 47th St., N. Y. Bryant 1376 


ONE REFINED WOMAN in each locality is 
offered by the Condé Nast Publications an oppor- 
tunity to make money in an agreeable way. This 
is not the usual magazine agency proposition, but 
an exceptional opportunity for the right sort of 
woman. If interested, write Mr. John Ramsey, 





To acquaiat you with Frutchey Silk Stockings, all 
silk chiffons, 3 pairs $5—banana, French nude, 
new gray, fawn, black. Perfect satisfaction guar- 
anteed. Frutchey Silk Shop, 574 Fifth Av., N.Y.C. 


MEMORIALS FOR EVERY PURPOSE. In 
granite. marble, bronze and glass. Individual con- 
sideration. Sketches upon request. State require- 
ments. The Davis Memorial Co., Syracuse, N. Y 


INDIVIDUAL SHOPPING SERVICE—no charge. 
We will buy for you and for your home. References 
equired. Murray Hill 4266 





req 
Mrs. Gordon Abbott, Inc., 52 Vanderbilt Ave., N.Y. 








Hosiery Repaired 





We Specialize in REPAIRING French Sheer hose. 
Runs & Pull Threads repaired on all makes of 


Miscellaneous 


Silks 





Manufacturer of HAND MADE Children’s dresses 
needs several reliable ladies to take orders. Splendid 
opportunity for ladies with good social connections. 


FRUTCHEY SILK SHOP, 574 Fifth Ave., N. Y. 
Mr. Frutchey (for 30 years a style authority) 
gladly sends samples of silks, personally selected for 




















Yondé Ni lications. ; ‘ 3 . 
ena Greenwich, Conn. Alay Ry givice, % West ith Bt, x "y. Box 156, Davenport, Iowa. any purpose. Here your patronage is appreciated. 
MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant 670, pays highest 
as’ fi isfit or slightly used evening “ ; " 
ee furs,’ diamonds, Jewelry, silverware. Interior Decorators & Decorations Monograms and Woven Names Seidel Etiquette 

69 West 45th Street, New Yo 

5 CASH’S WOVEN NAMES for marking clothing, Charm, Poise & Personality—Overcome self-con- 





Gowns & Blouses Made to Order 


WHOLESALE ONLY. French Glass, copies of 

early American styles, in plates, salad bowls, com- 

potes, etc. Hall House, Charles Hall, Ine., 
3 East 40th Street, New York 





HE MISSES CURRAN will make you street 
nd evening gowns and blouses for all occasions 


Make your own window drapes. A leading New 
York decorator (formerly with John Wanamaker) 
tells how. Send 50c today for complete instructio 





P § do remodeling at reasonable prices. n 
Ee as (29th St.), N. Y. Mad. Sq. 8188] book. Shelton Shop, 148 E. 50 St., N. Y. C. 

E. & S. MEARES CURTAIN CRAFT—I9 W. 50th St., N. Y. C. 
fake street, afternoon and evening gowns for the | Ready-made Draperies, to Fit any Window. 
mart gentlewoman of discrimination. $65.00 up. | Custom finish —- Superior Materials — Attractive 
24 West S8ist St., N. Y. C. Schuyler 1995] Prices. Interior Decorations. Gifts. Furniture. 





GERDA JOHANSON 
Dresses to a distinguished clientele. 
Announcing a_new_ address. 
East 54th St., N. Y¥. C. Tel. Plaza 6744 


26 








Jewelry and Precious Stones 





Gowns Remodeled 


FRANK C. HUTCHINSON BUYS DIAMONDS, 
precious stones and individual pieces of jewelry or 
jewelry estates lu be settied, bxpert appraising. 
344 Madison Ave., N. Y. C., opp. Hotel Biltmore. 





‘THE MENDING SHOP.” Gowns Tailored, Suits 
temodeled up-to-date. Shop Biouses and Gowns 
tefitted. Miss H. Redding Coughlin, 17 E. 48th 
st., N. Y. No Branches. Phone 5062 Mur. Hill 


Y RE-BUILDING OF GOWNS !S THE TALK 
f New York, because I make creations out of gowns 
hat seem hopeless. Trices reasonable. Atalanta 
omer, Ltd., 37 W. 48th St., N. Y.. Bry. 1 











Hair Coloring 


RANDOLPH J. TRABERT CO., Formerly with 
Black, Starr & Frost, Jewel Brokers & Authorized 
Appraisers. Jewels purchased from estates & private 
parties. Guaranty Trust Bldg., Rm. 506, 522-5th Av. 
ESTATES AND RESPONSIBLE PERSONS wish- 
ing to dispose of jewels can do so privately and 
to the best advantage at 542-5th Avenue 
Rooms 50-51. 5th Floor, Bechet & Barclay. 





household & hotel linen, etc. Write for styles and 
prices. J. J. Cash, Inc., 622 Chestnut St., 7 
Norwalk, Conn. England, France, Australia, Canada 


sciousness—Personality analyzed, correct social pro- 
cedure authoritatively taught personally & by mail. 





“INDELLO” Transfers (just ironed on). Per- 
manently mark your clothing & linens quickly. 
100 of your name or your initials--$1.00. Per- 
manent Marking Co., Chestnut Hill, Phila., Pa. 





Mlle. Louise, Alamac Hotel, 71st St., Bway, N.Y. 





Specialty Shops 





Mourning Apparel 





MULLEN — (9 E. 49th St., N. Y. 

Mourning and Stunning Black Hats, 

Veils, Gowns, Blouses and Bags. 
No catalog 





FALL AND WINTER DRESSES. 
Models for children. Hats, Novelties, Shades, Doll 
Houses and Furniture. Special blend Cigarettes. 
Commission Shop, 8 East 47th St., N. Y. C. 


FITZPATRICK—175 Lexington Ave., N. Y. €. 
Advance fall importations 
Sample gowns and: frocks at savings of fifty percent 
over retail prices. 








Patterns 





PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE from _illustra- 
tions, description of model. Fit guaranteed. Special 
attention to mail orders. Mrs. W. 3S. Weisz, 
111 Lexington Avenue, at 28th Street, New York. 





Tea Rooms 





THE DIXIE KITCHEN 
Delectable Southern dinners with smothered chicken 
and waffles. Cafeteria plan at its best. Con- 
venientiy situated at 9 and 11 East 44th St., N. Y. 





DO YOU LIKE TO SEW? Vogue’s_ smart 
dressmaking course tells how. In booklet form. 
profuse with diagrams, postpaid 25c. ‘‘Vogue Lessons 
for Home Dressmaking,’’ 19 West 44th St., N.Y.C. 








Toilet Preparations 





THE WOMAN JEWELER—Specializes in fine 
gems, settings and repairs. Express your personal- 
ity in your jewelry. Purchases made abroad. 

Olga Tritt, Heckscher Bldg., 730-5th Ave., N. Y. 





PREMATURELY GREY HAIR RESTORED with 
ne application of André’s Oriental Coloring. Gives 
Ihe hair a soft, glossy, youthful appearance. Price 
2.00. André, 16 Kast 37th Street, New York. 


HY HAVE GREY OR FADED HAIR? B. Paul’s 
Henna. Composed pulverized Henna; Herbs. Will 
ot rub off. 14 shades. Harmless-Shop applications 
‘ostpaid $1.60. B. Paul, 21 W. 39th St., N. Y. 
GRAY HAIR BANISHED IN 15 MINUTES 
necto Salons, 33-35 West 46th Street, New York. 
pxture. Particulars Mailed. Daily Demonstration. 
necto Salons, 33-35 West 46th Street, New York. 
F YOUR HAIR is Blonde, Golden Blonde, or 
hestnut, uneven in color and dull, with gray 
ginning to show, write for ovr Booklet. 
rancis Hairdressing Corp. Dept. V, 4 W. 49thSt.,N.Y. 











WE BUY DIAMONDS, single pieces of jewelry and 
jewelry estates. Expert appraising. Est. 1885. 
W. L. Collin, 347-5th Ave., at 34th St., New York 
Room 1061 Telephone Ashland 6274 


HAROLD J. HENRY and ASSOCIATES 
offer a three-fold service 
to executors, trustees and individuals :— 
purchase, appraisal or sale of 

Diamonds, Precious Stones & Jewelry Estates 
Ul. J. Henry D.P. Brokaw H. A. Friese H. A. Meyers 
15 Maiden Lane, New York City 
Forty Years of Jewelry Experience 


HIGHEST PRICES PAID for diamonds, watches, 
pearls, jewelry, ete. Checks sent for your approval. 
Merchandise held 8 days. Bank _ references. 
Detroit Gold Refiners, Detroit. 














Hair Goods 


BENNETT BROS., buy and sell Diamonds, Semi- 
precious Stones, Pearls, Old Fashioned Jewelry. 
Estates appraised and settled. 

175 Broadway, N. Y. (2nd floor), at Maiden Lane. 





ANUEL—The originator of the Modern Trans- 
brmation and Sight-Proof Parting. Specialist in 
1 kinds of hair goods. Booklet on request. 

. Manuel, 29 East 48th St., N. Y. Mur. Hill 5737 





Jewelry and Silverware Bought 





0 REST YOUR HAIR, and for added charm 


CASH FOR JEWELRY, Diamonds, Gems, Gold, 























ear a Transformation with the life-like parting, | Silver, new or broken. Prices now exceptionally 
as developed by Louis Parme. high. Established 40 years. Mme. Naftal. i 
8 West 57th St., N. Y. Phone Circle 4956. | 69 West 45th St., New York. ‘Tel. Bryant 670 
Diamonds, Pawn Tickets, Jewelry 
H . d iy ] T t t Bought, —— paid Pn cag 
Appraising ree. onfidential. 
elie “up sisal Forgotston, 201 W. 49th St., Suite 301, N. Y. 
ASH PAID IMMEDIATELY 
ALDEYER & BETTS—Scalp Specialists. Ex-| For pearls, diamonds, jewelry, silver, personal 
Prt advice and scientific treatment of oe and scalp] property. Entire estates bought—sold—appraised. 


Fifth Avenue, N. Y. C. 
43 Rue Godot de Mauroy, Paris 


FAMOUS HAIR TREATMENT TAUGHT BY 
trespondence. The world-famous Frances Fox 
‘ientific Treatment for the scalp and hair is 
w being taught by correspondence. The course, 
lile easily acquired, is exact in every detail 
practiced in the famous Frances Fox Insti- 
tes of New York, London, and Paris. The 
Pmand for this high-class, independent, profes- 
onal work is unlimited and minimum profits of 
00 per month are the average from the start. 
he Course is open to young ladies of refinement 
d ambition at a total cost of $25. Write at 
nce for full particulars reserving desired territory 
Pfore it is allotted. 

Frances Fox Institute 























Confidential. King, 831—-6th Ave., cor. 47 St., N. Y. C. 


VOGUE’S BOOK OF ETIQUETTE represents 
the letter and spirit of good manners as approved 
by people of breeding and tradition. Postpaid $4 
Vogue, 19 West 44th Street, N. Y. 





Permanent Hair Wave 


Poudre Magique, Tomnel et fils. 

hygienic toilette powder. A deodorant, as well as 

a dusting powder. Prevents all odor of perspiration. 
P. O. 171, Cold Spring Harbor, N. Y. 


A two in one 








ROBERT—Permanent Hair Waving like a Marcel. 
Jeune Garcon Hair Cut, Hair Tinting, Hair Goods. 
Manicuring, etc., 675 Fitth Avenue. 
at 53rd Street, Plaza 1533-0684. 


Traveling 





CALL AT SCHAEFFER’S if you want expert 
personal attention for a permanent wave. 
Positively no friz or kink. 

J. Schaeffer Inc., 590-592-5th Av., N.Y. Bryant 7615 


New York City GUIDE & CHAPERONE Service. 
Visit smart dining places, shops, Greenwich Village, 
Ocean Liners, Historical Buildings, Theatres, et«. 
Miss Miner, 223 Riverside Dr., N.Y. Tel River 2269 








NESTLE’S 
World’s famous permanent waving expert for 
safety and comfort. Originators of the renowned 
Lanoil Process which requires almost no heat. 
Actually improves the hair texture and in 
beauty of result duplicates natural waviness. 
Booklet or appointment. 2 to 14 East 49th 
Street, New York. Phone Vanderbilt 7660-7661. 


Unusual Gifts 


BERTHA TANZER, Box 2, Station F, Brooklyn, 
N.Y. My handy-sized catalog V of unique gifts 
and prizes is a time saver, it comes for a two 
cent stamp. 








MY SPECIALTY PERMANENT LARGE WAVE 
At last, white hair waved without making it yellow. 
Bobbed hair all in ringlets. J. Halloh, 

36 East 48th St., N. Y Vanderbilt 5241. 


ARTISTIC GIFTS & NOVELTIES personally 
selected by me from individual craftsmen in Europe. 
Catalog for trade only. 

Rena Rosenthal, 520 Madison Av. (nr. 53d St.) N.Y. 





MARIO & FREDERICK, INC. 

Permanent Wave Specialists. Personal attention. 
The result being the duplicate of a large natural 
wave. 17 East 48th St., N. Y. Vanderbilt 6897. 


FRENCH NOVELTY DOLLS. Also Artistic, soft, 
hand-painted fabrics, suitable for scarfs, dresses, 
ete. European gifts. Booth 121 Hotel Commodore 
Exhibit. Lisa des Renaudes, 51 W. 52 St., N. Y. 





PAUL — Permanent Marcel. Personal Service. 
Boyish Bob to Your Type 

Hair Tinting Transformations 
586 Fifth Ave., N. Y. Phone Bryant 9964 


SOMETHING CHARMING AND USEFUL. Prac- 
tical & novel gifts appropriate for the professional 
man or discriminating woman. Send for catalog. 

U.S. Victor Fountain Pen Co., 109 Lafayette St., N. Y. 





LOUISE BERTHELON 7 years with Nestle’s 
Permanent waving properly understood and 
artistically done at reasonable prices. 

48 East 49th Street, N. Y Murray Hill 2768. 








Wedding Stationery 





Prints & Frames 


100 WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS $13.50 or 
invitations hand-engraved. 2 sets of envelopes. 
100 Calling Cards, $2.75. Write for samples. 

V. Ott Engraving Co., 1030 Chestnut St., Phila.,Pa. 





KENNEDY & CO., 693 Fifth Ave., New York 
Fine Sporting and Naval Prints, 
Rare Old and Modern Etchings. 
Americana suitable for Colonial Homes. 


Engraved Wedding Invitations & Announcements. 
Everett Waddey Co. has for generations insured 
highest quality at reasonable prices. del. Book 
Wedding Etiquette Free. 5S. 11 St., Richmond, Va. 











Ladies’ Tailors 


Shoes and Custom Shoes 





J. TUZZOLI, 27 West 46th St., N. Y., makes a 
suit for $65 which cannot be duplicated under $125. 
Quality & material faultless in make & fit. 
New models now ready. Furs remodeled. 
WE WISH TO ANNOUNCE our removal to 29 W. 
48th St., N. Y. where we are now showing our new 
Fall designs in suits & dresses. Exclusive fabrics 





SHOECRAFT SHOP ‘“‘fits the narrow heel’’ in 
sizes 1-10 AAAA to E, French and English models 
in street and evening footwear. Send for Catalog 
S. Fit Guaranteed. 714-5th Ave., New York. 


JACK’S SHOE SHOP (Creators) 
151 West 45th St., N. Y., Opp. Lyceum Theatre. 





Dp 
A shoe ensemble of beautiful creations appealing 











353 Fifth Ave., New York City 





& styles. Coppola, Vincent & Co. 


to women of distinctive tastes 


SUPERIOR ENGRAVING CO. Wedding Invita- 
tions and Announcements. Wholesale Prices. 
Guaranteed hand engraved. Highest Quality. 
Write for samples. 610 E. Main St., Richmond, Va. 
INVITATIONS AND ANNOUNCEMENTS 
Engraved in the very latest styles. Write for 
samples and prices. Prompt Service. 

Virginia Stationery Co., Dept. V., Richmond, Va. 


JUST OFF FIFTH AVENUE, S. & M. Manasse, 
Inc., at 6 West 29th St., New York, engrave wed- 
ding invitations and announcements. Last minute 











styles. 25 Years’ experience. Satisfaction assured. 
































SECO 
Borie} 





FATES ARC Ret eo 
MA SA 4S . 
Ns had) Or 4 


gene REN SORE TS et 











= 


py 


Py Syn 


Te 


yey? 
pitt 
J * 


bib! 
: “a 








oie 








eens tee ae 


... never so 
Ma pice ..: . 





















































September 15 





ND now Vogue concentrates! It 
concentrates on that matter of 
greatest fashion importance—the 

Early Paris Openings, for there is the key- 
note to the entire winter situation. Unlike 
the more elaborate openings that come 
later, the early openings are limited to 
fewer collections and are the first authentic 
gesture to show the path of winter fashion. 
To these openings goes Vogue with all 
speed, flitting from one collection to another 
to be sure to have the cream of the collec- 
tions to disperse through its pages. 

As to what this Paris news actually will 
be—, there, as one says, is the question, 
and Vogue itself doesn’t know until it has 
been to see. But at the time of writing, 
the descent on the openings is imminent, 
and soon the wires across the seas will be 
weighted with the importance of their 
fashion messages. 

In addition to news of the openings, 
Vogue is planning a lingerie article with 
two pages of much ado about almost noth- 
ing and a few words of wisdom regarding 
the fewness and fineness of one’s under- 
garments. The question of the coiffure 
will be discussed at length or in brief, 
according to the state of one’s tresses. This 





Y caus is published on the first and fifteenth of every 
month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., Greenwich, 
‘onn. 


Executive and Publishing Offices, Greenwich, Conn. 
Editorial Office—19 West 44th Street, New York, N. Y. 
Cable address: Vonork 
London: Aldwych House, 
Aldwych, London, W. C. 2, England 
Cable Address: Volon 
Paris: 2 rue Edouard VII., Paris, France 
Cable Address: Vopar 


Condé Nast, President; Francis L. had ming Vice-President ; 
W. E. Beck erle, Treasurer; M. E. Moore, Secretary; Edna 
Woolman Chase, Editor; Heyworth Campbell, Art Director; 
Philippe Ortiz, ‘European Director. 


Manuscripts must be accompanied .* postage for their 
return if unavailable. Vogue ibility for 
unsolicited contributions except to seed” them courteous 
attention and ordinary care. Vogue does not accept or pay 
duty on drawings submitted by foreign artists, unless the 
drawings are sent at the order of Vogue or by arrangement 
with its New York office. 











Contents for September 15,1924 


A FORECAST OF 
AUTUMN FASHIONS 


AND MILLINERY 
Cover Design by HARRIET MESEROLE 


Vogue’s-Eye View of the Mode. . . 55 
Mrs. Guy Fairfax Cary . Frontis piece 
The HighwaytoChic. . .. ... . 5-65 
Frenchwomen Appear as Italian 

Comedy Figures. . (is es CO-GF 
A Forecast of the Winter Mode er ae 
The Parisienne Discards for Chic. . . 72-73 
Southampton—The Place to Play. . . 74-75 
Society Snap-Shots. . . . ics Co 76 
Russian Recipes for the Hostess ease 77 
Mrs. Herbert Claiborne Pell, junior. . 78 
Editorial: Heads, Fronts, and the 

Altogether . . 8 eee ee 79 
Prominent Figures i in Polo anes sagt ene 
Seen on the Stage. . . . 82-83 
The New York Fashion in Hats ‘and 

Costumes. . 84-93 
The Importance of Being Beautiful - .« 94-95 
The Tunic Casts Its Shadow . - 96-97 
A Guide to Chic ie the Business 

Woman . . eet : 98-99 
Seen in the Shops mick ‘ - 100-101 
Vogue Designs for the Seamstress : . 102-104, 

112-118 

On Her Dressing-Table. . . . . « 106 
Society . . ; 108 
Chintz and Linen from the Shops . sec 132 
Marriage & la Mediaeval Mode . . . 136-138 
The Wonderland of Italy. . . . « 140-142 
New Designs in Printed Materials. Rite 146 
Answers to Correspondents . . - « 148-150 
Considering the Cheque. . . . . . 156-158 
What They. Read... .. .-. . . . 160-164 
The Way Round Paris... . . . 168-170 
The Jitney Players . . . ay 172 


Title Vogue registered in the U. s. Patent Office 
Copyright, 1924, by the Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 


VOL. NO. 64 NO. 6 WHOLE NO. 1247 





article is illustrated with both sketches and 
photographs and gives advice as to where 
one should draw the line at the bob and 
concerning the subtle use of the transfor- 
mation for those who wish to outgrow 
their shorn state. 

The New York shoe situation will be 
thoroughly analyzed and found to bring 
refreshing news of simplicity, with a se- 
rious thought for the comfort of the foot. 
Vogue selects three types of shoes as rep- 
resentative of the standard best in the 
new footwear, and then discriminates 
among the novelties. 

In the same number, a folio of New 
York hats gives unexpected side-lights and 
back views of the millinery mode, and the 
shoppers’ sections concern themselves with 
tunic-blouses and the modern jewellery 
which, though it is false to tradition, is 
very fair to look upon. 

But the serious business of concentration 
is upon the openings, and those for whom 
the smart winter wardrobe holds any inter- 
est—meaning all femininity between six- 
teen and an admitted sixty—had best mark 
September 25 with a red star on the calen- 
dar, the day when the October 1 issue of 
Vogue appears upon the news-stands. 





Subscriptions for the United States, Panama Canal Zone, 
Porto Rico, Hawaii, Canada, and the Philippines, $5 a year 
in advance. Single copies, 35 cents. For other countries, 
subscription prices will be furnished on request. Remit by 
cheque, draft, or postal or express money order. Other re- 
mittances at sender’s risk. Address all correspondence to 
Vogue. Greenwich, Conn. 


Change of Address.—The address of subscribers can be 
changed as often as desired. In ordering a change, please 
give both the new address and the name and address exactly 
as it appeared on the wrapper of the last copy received. 
Four weeks’ notice is required for changing an address or 
for a new subscription. 


Application for entry as second-class matter at the Post 
Office at Greenwich, Conn., pending. Printed in the U. S. A. 
hy the Condé Nast Press. 





























































MASCULINE 3 in its mastery over difficult travel, but feminine 
in the many fitments that contribute to motor car complete- 
ness, the Reo Four-Door Brougham sharply appeals to the driving, 
instincts of man and woman. 7 


















Brute power and stamina below the frame, and a racefully 
modeled body above, jive pride of ownership a dual significance. 


A finely balanced chassis, interior roominess and superb uphol- 
sterin?, are now supplemented by genuine balloon tires to provide 
the fullest measure of ridin}, comfort for the short trip or the 
long, tour. 


Mechanical correctness is represented by the high-powered Reo 

6-cylinder engine, double-framed cradling, of vital units, 13-plate 

clutch, dual foot control, oversized brakes and gently resilient 

springs. € Completeness is represented by balloon tires, special 
steel disc wheels, Motometer, electric clock, cigar liphter, mohair ’ 
plush upholstery, automatic windshield wiper, trunk and suitcase, 

bumpers, step plates, etc. 


The price, complete, is $2235 at Lansing, plus tax. 


2 Ge ‘ta 





REO MOTOR CAR COMPANY :: LANSING, MICHIGAN 








September 15 































“Who steals my purse,” to-day, 
steals a beautiful brocade or em- 
broidered envelope; for the en- 
velope purse is the only truly 
smart purse, whether for morning 
or for evening 
Rain or shine, the smart Pari- 
sienne carries her short, stubby 
umbrella, in brown or black silk 
to harmonize with her daytime 
ensemble, shown on page 72 
The newest foible in jewellery 1s 
Cartier’s bracelet of gold or silver 
wire, coiled tightly as a spring 
(page 73), to accompany and 
eventually supplant the vogue of 
slave bracelets 










OGUE can not repeat too often the message conveyed once 

again by the sketches on pages 72 and 73: that the road to 
smartness is a simple one and that the woman of to-day must 
avoid the detours and side paths that confused our grandmothers. 
Their manners were excessively formal; their garments stood 
alone, disclaiming any relationship to the body beneath. Clothes 
made the woman; to-day, the woman makes the clothes. Elimina- 
tion has become a fine art. 


OMEN no longer plume themselves on immense flower- or 

feather-trimmed bonnets, but wear tiny cut felts for almost 
every occasion, especially the square-crowned, narrow-brimmed 
Reboux model called “Florentin,” with a feather fantaisie as an 
occasional concession to the formality of afternoon. 


HESE are pulled on over the abbreviated coiffure that has 

proved so rough on the rats of yesterday. Padding the 
pompadour or the figure is a thing of the past, for favourable 
comment on the lack of hair at the back of one’s neck has re- 
placed admiration of the lordly mass over one’s forehead, as 
surely as salads have supplanted French pastry and bonbons, 
with their heritage of dangerous curves ahead. 


RMOURED corsets bow to modern elasticity; gone are the 

wealth of beruffled petticoats, the black stockings, and the 
high shoes. Lingerie to-day is little more than skin deep. A 
brassiére (if. needed), a lightly boned corset or two-in-one gar- 
ment of taffeta (if needed), a combination, and a silk slip (if the 
dress requires it, in view of the fact that discreet transparency is 
now considered piquant) are all that lie behind the simplicity 
of the costume. Low shoes and sheer beige stockings are worn 
the year round, sometimes over invisible leggings of light wool as 
a concession to blizzards and possible pneumonia. 


CCESSORIES, also, combine comfort with chic. The envel- 

ope purse, invariably tucked under the arm to give that 
huddled effect favoured for the street, serves the double purpose 
of carryall and fastening for the slim wrap-around coat. The 
tight kid gloves that formerly cramped the hands have knutkled 
under to the loose, almost déformé pull-ons of chamois or 
antelope, worn even with light crépe afternoon frocks. 


T is the jewellery, however, that gives the 1924 uniform its chief 

glamour. Imitation jewels are now flaunted where they were 
once worn furtively and with intent to deceive. Strings and 
strings of pearls, with false and genuine mingled indiscrimi- 
nately, are worn alike for outdoor activities and for evening—a 
phenomenon that would formerly have been considered the height 
of bad taste. More than one type of artificial jeweilery at a time 
is not smart, however, but, while a rage lasts, each ring and brace- 
let becomes as much a part of the smart woman, whatever her 
attire, as her bob or her manicure. ‘Then, inexplicably, the 
fashion will change overnight, as all amusing and inexpensive 
fads will do. Yesterday, it was the slave bracelet; to-day, the 
Cartier bracelet of coiled gold or silver wire; to-morrow—qui 
sait? It will be something else. In this one particular, the Age of 
Elimination reflects the Age of Furbelows. ss 
THE EDITOR 

















VOGUE 











i eee 





























Kazanjian 


MRS. GUY FAIRFAX CARY 


Mrs. Cary, formerly Miss Cynthia B. Roche, 
is the daughter of Mrs. Burke Roche and 
sister of Lord Fermoy and Francis Burke 
Roche, Esq. Before her marriage, she was 
the wife of the late Arthur Scott Burden 


Mr. and Mrs. Cary were married in New- 
port about two years ago, and she is again 
spending the summer there, at her mother’s 
house, “Elms Court.” The photograph above, 
taken recently, shows her with her small son 





September 15 





tn 
MN 








VW 
O 
G 


©E 





MARTHE COLLOT MODEL 
IMPORTED BY BENDEL 


Marthe Collot’s characteris- 
tic movement is one of 
height sloping back from the 
forehead, in hats soft and 
shapeless in the hand, as is 
this model of black velvet 
and two tones of nasturtiunt 
colour 





6 | ET me make the hats of a 
nation, and I care not who 
makes the gowns” is the at- 

titude of many milliners, who, as 

a rule, are a fairly contented lot. 

A milliner can always be creating; 

an idea for a new hat comes upon 

her suddenly out of the air of Paris 
or her own inner consciousness. 

Quick !—a round of felt, a yard of 

ribbon, a corner of velvet—abraca- 

dabra!—a new hat is evolved, and, 
if it is one of those lucky hits which occur every once in 
so often, it will see itself repeated over and over, imitated, 
adapted, until it finds itself a part of millinery history, solemnly 
installed in a costume book as “typical of the epoch 19—.” Many 
will say that this is exactly what happens to gowns. So it does, 
but doesn’t every one sense the difference? There is such a 
long way to go between the inception of the gown and its reali- 
zation on the mannequin, so many slips ’twixt the cut and the 
hip. One can’t twist up a gown, stick in three pins, and, presto, 
have a creation ready to wear. A gown involves the services 
of cutters, fitters, embroiderers; it is solemn; it is serious; worst 
of all, it is expensive. It is all the difference between 
The Ring and the Book and a Chinese quatrain. That is 





why a really imaginative milliner 
enjoys life so thoroughly; for 
what, in. this wide world, can 
compare with the solid satisfaction 
of creation? 

To get down to cases, I recently 
made the rounds of the Paris mil- 
liners to study their first winter 
models and to record their ideas 
for next season. ‘What do you 
believe in?” I asked them. ‘Are 
you making any large hats at all?” 
And, one and all, they answered, “‘Yes, we have no large 
hats,” some of them wistfully, some of them defiantly. 
In all of these sketches, which represent the newest tendencies of 
the Paris creators, one will find but two large hats, from Georgette 
and from Lucie Hamar, among a wilderness of small ones, and 
this correctly represents the proportion. It was Georgette who 
begged me to draw the big one, shown on page 64, with one of 
her inimitable bows perched on one side of its crown. “For,” 
she protested, “there must certainly be some occasions next 
winter when the large hat will be obligatory.” Personally, I do 
not feel at all sure that there will. Women have the idea that 
large hats make them look too imposing, and no one wants to be 
imposing nowadays; perish the thought! It is true that, during 



















RI 10. 





Za lhe Geld Standard of Valves "Sy 
3 ne f 
} if 
t ASCULINE in its mastery over difficult travel, but feminine j 
o in the many fitments that contribute to motor car complete- ? 
A ness, the Reo Four-Door Brougham sharply appeals to the drivin}, } 
4 instincts of man and woman. 
| a 
vy 
x Brute power and stamina below the frame, and a racefully 
ty modeled body above, sive pride of ownership a dual significance. 
=~ A finely balanced chassis, interior roominess and superb uphol- 
RS sterin?, are now supplemented by genuine balloon tires to provide 
L the fullest measure of ridin, comfort for the short trip or the 
4. long, tour. 
y Mechanical correctness is represented by the high-powered Reo 
mvt 6-cylinder engine, double-framed cradling, of vital units, 13-plate 
I clutch, dual foot control, oversized brakes and ently resilient 
x springs. Completeness is represented by balloon tires, special 
AI steel disc wheels, Motometer, electric clock, cigar lhter, mohair 
i plush upholstery, automatic windshield wiper, trunk and suitcase, 
a bumpers, step plates, etc. 
x The price, complete, is $2235 at Lansing, plus tax. 





REO MOTOR CAR COMPANY LANSING, MICHIGAN 






















* A 
ket Lo 


+ 


> oes 


3 


>< =>, 


= 


“out } 


eS 


SF 


Pa a 


$+ 











September P ie: 


“Who steals my purse,” to-day, 
steals a beautiful brocade or em- 
broidered envelope; for the en- 
velope purse is the only truly 
smart purse, whether for morning 
or for evening 
Rain or shine, the smart Pari- 
sienne carries her short, stubby 
umbrella, in brown or black silk 
to harmonize with her daytime 
ensemble, shown on page 72 
The newest foible in jewellery 1s 
Cartier’s bracelet of gold or silver 
wire, coiled tightly as a spring 
(page 73), to accompany and 
eventually supplant the vogue of 
slave bracelets 





wt = 








penny can not repeat too often the message conveyed once 
again by the sketches on pages 72 and 73: that the road to 
smartness is a simple one and that the woman of to-day must 
avoid the detours and side paths that confused our grandmothers 
Their manners were excessively formal; their garments stood 
alone, disclaiming any relationship to the body beneath. Clothes 
made the woman; to-day, the woman makes the clothes. Elimina- 
tion has become a fine art. 


OMEN no longer plume themselves on immense flower- or 

feather-trimmed bonnets, but wear tiny cut felts for almost 
every occasion, especially the square-crowned, narrow-brimmed 
Reboux model called *Florentin,” with a feather fantaisie as an 
occasional concession to the formality of afternoon. 


HESE are pulled on over the abbreviated coiffure that has 

proved so rough on the rats of yesterday. Padding the 
pompadour or the figure is a thing of the past, for favourable 
comment on the lack of hair at the back of one’s neck has re 
placed admiration of the lordly mass over one’s forehead, as 
surely as salads have supplanted French pastry and bonbons, 
with their heritage of dangerous curves ahead 


Ferree corsets bow to modern elasticity; gone are the 
wealth of beruffled petticoats, the black stockings, and the 
high shoes. Lingerie to-day is little more than skin deep. A 
brassiere (if needed), a lightly boned corset or two-in-one gar- 
ment of taffeta (if needed), a combination, and a silk slip (if the 
dress requires it, in view of the fact that discreet transparency is 
now considered piquant) are all that lie behind the simplicity 
of the costume. Low shoes and sheer beige stockings are worn 
the year round, sometimes over invisible leggings of light wool as 
a concession to blizzards and possible pneumonia. 


CCESSORIES, also, combine comfort with chic. The envel- 

ope purse, invariably tucked under the arm to give that 
huddled effect favoured for the street, serves the double purpose 
of carryall and fastening for the slim wrap-around coat. The 
tight kid gloves that formerly cramped the hands have knuckled 
under to the loose, almost déformé pull-ons of chamois or 
antelope, worn even with light crépe afternoon frocks. 


T is the jewellery, however, that gives the 1924 uniform its chief 

glamour. Imitation jewels are now flaunted where they were 
once worn furtively and with intent to deceive. Strings and 
strings of pearls, with false and genuine mingled indiscrimi- 
nately, are worn alike for outdoor activities and for evening—a 
phenomenon that would formerly have been considered the height 
of bad taste. More than one type of artificial jeweiléry at a time 
is not smart, however, but, while a rage lasts, each ring and brace- 
let becomes as much a part of the smart woman, whatever her 
attire, as her bob or her manicure. Then, inexplicably, the 
fashion will change overnight, as all amusing and inexpensivi 
fads will do. Yesterday, it was the slave bracelet; to-day, the 
Cartier bracelet of coiled gold or silver wire; to-morrow—qui 
sait? It will be something else. In this one particular, the Age of 
Elimination reflects the Age of Furbelows. 

THE EDITOR 


VOGUE 


8 eee neem 




















MRS. GUY FAIRFAX CARY 


Mrs. Cary, formerly Miss Cynthia B. Roche, Mr. and Mrs. Cary were married in New- 
: is the daughter of Mrs. Burke Roche and port about two years ago, and she is again 
sister of Lord Fermoy and Francis Burke spending the summer there, at her mother’s 
Roche, Esq Before her marriage, she was house, “Elms Court.” The photograph above, 
the wife of the late Arthur Scott Burden taken recently, shows her with her small son 

















September 15 


+ 


JK 


re NE NE 9 A I GTN I 8 TEEPE CETTE 2S 





MLODEI 
BENDEI 


MARTHE COLLOT 
I\MIPORTED BY 


Marthe Collot’s characteris- 
tic movement is one of 
height sloping back from the 
forehead, in hats soft anda 
shapeless in the hand, as is 
this model of black vel: 

and two tones of nasturtiun 

colour 


] 


\ 


‘a 
. ~\ 
-_—— YSN 
/ \ ata 
, ~ 
{ ) Y | { (> 
{ ” j | 
} * ( y ' 
_ \ ‘ = A = » . « Xx 
- \ - ~~ en Fst 
{ c Lc 
\ 2 


ET me make the hats of a 






why a really imaginative milliner 


nation, and I care not who CLY/ ~te rsnf [2 yr) enjoys life so thoroughly; for 
makes the gowns” is the at- SAM) Wt of | rh ieee what, in this wide world, can 
titude of many milliners, who, as ( 7 S/N 0 Ona YY pricy ) compare with the solid satisfaction 
a rule, are a fairly contented lot. a NUT IJ et E OMIM of creation ? 
A milliner can always be creating; Py IP . Wei Yay ks (C Aor To get down to cases, I recently 
an idea for a new hat comes upon jas hh 7 agg “ss made the rounds of the Paris mil 


liners to study their first winter 


her suddenly out of the air of Paris 
models and to record their ideas 


or her own inner consciousness. 


next season. 


Quick !—a round of felt, a yard of for 


ribbon, a corner of velvet—abraca- 

dabra!—a new hat is evolved, and, 

if it is one of those lucky hits which occur every once in 
so often, it will see itself repeated over and over, imitated, 
adapted, until it finds itself a part of millinery history, solemnly 
installed in a costume book as “‘typical of the epoch 19—.”’ Many 
will say that this is exactly what happens to gowns. So it does, 
but doesn’t every one sense the difference? There is such a 
long way to go between the inception of the gown and its reali- 
zation on the mannequin, so many slips “twixt the cut and the 
hip. One can’t twist up a gown, stick in three pins, and, presto, 
have a creation ready to wear. A gown involves the services 
of cutters, fitters, embroiderers; it is solemn; it is serious; worst 
of all, it is expensive. It is all the difference between 
The Ring and the Book and a Chinese quatrain. That is 


“What do you 


believe in?” I asked them. ‘Are 


aS; you making any large hats at all?” 


And, one and all, they answered, “Yes, we have no large 

hats,” some of them wistfully, some of them defiantly. 
In all of these sketches, which represent the newest tendencies of 
the Paris creators, one will find but two large hats, from Georgette 
and from Lucie Hamar, among a wilderness of small ones, and 
this correctly represents the proportion. It was Georgette who 
begged me to draw the big one, shown on page 64, with one of 
her inimitable bows perched on one side of its crown. ‘For,’ 
she protested, “there must certainly be some occasions next 
winter when the large hat will be obligatory.” Personally, I do 
not feel at all sure that there will. Women have the idea that 
large hats make them look too imposing, and no one wants to be 
imposing nowadays; perish the thought! It is true that, during 











VOGUI 


MARTHE COLLO1 MODEL 
IMPORTED BENDEI 
Empire modes exercise their dominion over this tower- 


ing turban of black velvet and Empire green velvet 


ribbon 


The ornament in the front consists of a green 


bird’s head and a tantaisie of glvcerinized ostrich feather 


the Grande Semaine in Paris, when the sun glared out of a 
brassy sky for an entire week, some women yielded to the tempta- 
tion of wide brims, carefully neutralizing the effect by having 


them almost transparent, lest any one should pin the reproach of 


practicality upon them. By far the greater number, however, stuc k 
to their little, tight, almost brimless Bangkoks and felts, stuck 
to them literally as well as figuratively, and scorned even the 
relief of the old-fashioned parasol. They say that it is the per- 
sistence of afternoon dancing that is responsible, but I don't 


think so: I think it is the persistence of the boyish ideal, the hat- 
pin effect, which is so appropriately completed by a little knob 
on top—so chic, so piquant an effect and so wise the women! 

The adjective, “round,” seems destined to leave the winter 
mode, if we can trust the indications of so many high crowns in 
the first collections. As my little vendeuse at Reboux’s said, “We 
are pushing the crowns up higher and higher every day.” At 
the moment of writing, there is no smarter hat than the Reboux 
felt—either in black or in a colour matching or contrasting with 




















ee 


ee 











; 
itive. 








\e 


a Me 


MARTHE REGNIER MODEI 


IMPORTED 


BY BENDEL 


Marthe Régnier is featuring ribbon and ostrich trim- 


mings. 


This model, which interprets the high crown 


in an amusing way by cutting off the top and posing 
it at the back, is of black felt and wide satin ribbon 


the costume. A hat of this type was worn in Deauville by Mrs. 
Reginald Vanderbilt, and it is occasionally seen even with 
evening dress. The fashion of having the same frock in several 
different materials has spread to hats, for Mrs. Vanderbilt wore 
this shape in black, horizon-blue, and in grey. The feathers at 
the side are of the varietv called ‘“‘crosse.”” They are extremely 
important in the winter mode at all the French milliners, but, for 
America, there are fantaisies in ostrich or goose to take their 
place. Lewis is particularly interested in aigrettes of all sorts, 


which he uses in a dozen different ways, all most effectively 

This brings us logically to trimmings, feather 
resembling aigrettes first, then ribbon, particularly velvet ribbons 
These are the law and the prophets; 
ostrich, and a little metal. Georgette, in particular, often com- 
bines felt with fur. Materials are hatter’s plush (here called 
panne velvet), satin, grosgrain, and felt. Black is so far in 
advance that the colours are nowhere in comparison to it; never- 

(Continued on page 62) 


fantaisies 


and after them come fur. 





VOGUE 


Steichen, Paris 


ALEX 


Porel appeared at the races in this smart hat of steel- 
with its feather fancy in two tones of grey. The sma 
still beloved by the Parisienne, and, when she adds 


a L » - , 
r fancies, she proclaims it suited for every hour 


, 
including the more formal occasions of afternoon 


THE FELT HAT DONS A FEATHER FANCY AFTERNOON 














September 15 





MARTHE REGNIER 


The mode is tied up in a bor 
again in this hat of cut felt in 
tortoise-shell brown. The brim 
goes straight up from the face to 
the approved height of fashion 
and finishes in a brown velvet 
bow to match, directly at the tot 


MOLYNEUX 


(Right) A study in silver-grev 
is this ensemble suit which 
Molyneux has designed for Lady 
Dudley. The frock is of crépe 
mongol, made in the new tunic 
fashion and embroidered in thr 
same silver tone. The coat, which 
descends almost to the hem of the 
dress, has a collar and deep band 
of chinchilla in tones to harmonize. 





The hat is of grey felt trimmed 
with grey satin ribbon i 
| 








THE SMARTEST FUR MATCHES ITS FABRIC THIS SEASON 








VOGUE 














c —_————__—_—_--——- a 
—, 
i | 
} 
{ 
{ 
\ 
a 
! } 
| } 
| | | 
| | | 
i } 
| \ | 
| 
/ | 
| . 
} 7 >>. 
| 3 > 
| he } i 
} os » = - 
j i 
| 
} 5 / 
te ‘ / 
| | o +9 (/ | 
| | 18 eg 
| | we ( ~~ 
Se ane. ; 
eH OY J 
= fe Ly 
| Pi 5 ~ 1 

















Yor 
& 
} 
ms 
©) 





arco 





























| 
| 
' ' 
| } 
} 
Se ee IO EE 
| 
| 











AGNES 


The specialty of Agnés for this winter will be hats in sex 


tones of the same 


fectly soft 


coloured 
crown—which 


velvet. This 


arranges on the 


model has a per 


one head—in a 


lovely shade of mauve velvet, a soft brim in a darker shade, 


verging on purple, and a paradise feather at the side 
niddle tones of imauze. 


le in two 


Agnés also makes this hat in shad 


of green and of orange 


theless, there is an effort to introduce colour in millinery, particu- 
larly the orange tones, the flame colours, some greens, and some 
An important note is the combination of three or four 
Agnes repeats in velvet her idea of 
shaded felt hats of this summer; Marthe Collot uses two shades 
sometimes, 


mauves. 
shades of the same colour. 


of orange velvet ribbon combined with black, or, 


three reds or three browns, in the same hat, with striking success 
As to shapes, in addition to the increasing height of crowns 
the continued influence of the Empire and the 


I must mention 


Directoire periods, indicating that interest in this revival is 
not over. Height, of course, is also characteristic of the millinery 
of these periods, especially of men’s millinery; this is significant, 
for it is the masculine fashions of those days which are attracting 
the most attention. To many of us, “Empire” means only the 
raised waist-line, and we are quite astonished to hear that it can 
stand for anything else. Vogue has talked before about the subtle 
influence of that period of change on our own quicksilver time. 
(Continued on page 166) 























September De 



























































MARIA GUY 


This house is making three types of small hats for the winter season— 

all of which are shown in this sketch. (Left) A chic model of hatter’s 

plush, trimmed with grosgrain ribbon and tiny birds’ heads, has the square 

crown that is the success of the season. (Centre) An interesting version 

of the tricorne of black or grey hatter’s plush and grosgrain also has the 

square crown. (Right) The third, of heavy satin and grosgrain, introduces 
the off-the-face movement 


THE ACME of SMARTNESS LIES ix the MINIMUM of BRIM 





MARTHIEI 


Ri gh [) 7 his 


} pr i 
nery / 
gner 

, 7 

/ Ci ‘lai ‘, 

line This 

irt tuckee 

top and a 


; 


1-in crown at th 


ind oT bl 


T¢ 


r 


bi 


re ribbon 


} 


nating bun 


h 


i 


ta 


<i" 





) 


REGNIER 


chic black felt 
what height 


Yc }] 
aspired All 


making some 


} 


tten on masculine 


y 7 . 
modet has the 


$ 


lea 


] 


ribbon 


MODELS ON THESE TWO 
PAGES IMPORTED BY 
SIMON 


FRAN KLIN 


THE LARGE HAT PLAYS a SMALL, due PICTURESQUE ROLE 


in a fasci 
of loops line 


























VOGUE 


GEORGETTE 
(Left) Paris  milliners 
have tried to introduce 
the large hat for winter, 
but, so far, few have been 
seen. However, Georgette, 
never happier than when 
tying a bow, has madé 
this picturesque model in 
blond felt and posed high 
on it a huge bow of panne 
velvet in the same _ soft 

colouring 


























September 15 


LANVIN 
(Right) Even the famil- 
iar cloche has risen in 
the world and, with a 
higher crown, an abrupi 
turn-up at one side, and 
a cockade trimming, pre- 
sents itself to the season, 
in golden brown felt. 
This trimming is a pin- 
wheel effect of pleated 
silver lamé braid and tails 

of ermine 


HATTER’S 








Yip 


“Uti, 


Viz 


Ly 


hil 


hitb 





PLUSH 


TAKES 


IT'S 











PLACE 





BESIDE 


65 


EVELYNE VARON 
(Left) The feeling of the sea- 


son for soft, unrigid hats 


exemplified in this smart little 
unblocked model of  hatter’s 
plush, which is extremely nex 

The smart turn-up at the side 
is cut into three square tabs 
and buttoned to the crown by 
crystal buttons through real 
buttonholes. The chic of these 
buttons is further emphasizec 

by their black centres 


FELT 





VOGUE 








Wl. Rehbinder, Paris 


“La Casa d’Arlecchin” féte, given in Paris by Madame Fauchier 

Magnan, is another proof—as were the “Soirées de Paris” of Comte 

Etienne de Beaumont—that the French capital knows well how to 

amuse itself. At this gala carnival, the ingenious hostess and her sister 

appeared in picturesque costumes of old Italian comedy. Madame 

Magnan made a ravishing Columbine, and Madame Lebel was dashing 
and graceful in the raiment of Harlequin 


FRENCHWOMEN APPEAR AS ITALIAN COMEDY FIGURES 











AT 


Wi. 


mber 


Rehbinder, 


THE 


ES 


Paris 





FETE WHERE 


With her bright costume and her engaging 
air, Madame Manoeuvrier might seem to 
be the very niistress who ruled the inn in 
Goldoni’s play. This eighteenth-century 
Venetian costume is made of golden yellow 
moire sprinkled with rose coloured flowers 
and draped with a sheer black lace mantilla 





PARIS 


Princesse Achille Murat is as lovely as a 
painting by Longhi, the Hogarth of 
eighteenth-century Venice, in her costunic of 
yellow ottoman trimmed with pink roses. 
The web-like black lace which she wears 
caught to the tip of her tricorn so becoming- 
ly is as typical of old Venice as it is of Spain 


AND OLD 


VENICE 








MEET 


VOGUE ; 





Seamer ~~ 





a sa 


t 















































MODELS FROM BERGDORF GOODMAN 


The circular cut of the skirt in Two circular jabot panels in front 
; 1 ; 


The wide cuffs that ar » sma) 

this season appear in seal on thi this black cuir de laine coat-dress are interesting features of a smar 

delightful coat which Worth is an important feature of the black woollen coat. The panels 

makes of soft black woollen mode. It is so subtly done that are untrimmed, but baby fox 1 

material. The collar and trim- ihe straight silhouette of the sea- used for the wide cuffs, collar. 
ing cre also of seal son 1s preserved and l:em band 


STRAIGHT SILHOUETTES HAVE CIRCULAR TENDENCIES 








RT me 











September 15 





A chariiing enseinible for warm 
winter days consists of a beige 
crépe marocain frock with the 
new circular note in its flounce 
and a straight velvet coat to 
match exactly, cut like a man’s j 
overcoat and yet light enough 
to slip easily under the sable 
wrap in colder weather 


- ST a | 


—_ ss 


COT 


— A —— 





N general, the silhouette remains short, straight, and slim, but 

there is a distinct tendency to get away from the tube effect by 
introducing fulness in the skirts by means of pleats, tiers, or cir- 
cular and bias effects. These are always placed at the sides or 
in front, for the plain flat back is universal. For the time being, 
this circular fulness is flattened down, and the slim straight 
line continues apparently unbroken. The cut is never intricate. 
Tunics, one of the dominant notes of the season, often have 
godets at both sides, as in the sketch on page 70, with the signifi- 
cant fulness emphasized by the tight fourreau beneath. They 
usually end two or three inches above the bottom of the skirt. 





WON Of MO VV LATER / 


leoley en fy 1, habric, and (oleur 


e  avemeean NA “ne 
YP 


Phe beltless silhouette is retained, but Chanel, always a cham- 
pion of the string belt placed at the top of the hips, is continuing 
its use. The high waist-line is slightly in evidence, indi- 
cated, however, more by the placing of trimmings than by 
actual cut. 

Sleeves for the daytime are long and tight-fitting, often ex- 
tending over the hands, and, in the evening are not seen. 

Skirt lengths are decidedly short, averaging, according to the 
type of the wearer, about twelve inches from the floor. 

Scarfs have been retained, but they are used more as an integral 
part of the dress than as a separate accessory. 





7 VOGUE 


THE ALL-IMPORTANT TUNIC THE ENSEMBLE COSTUME 
The ensemble costume is the supremely smart 


UNICS are fea‘cred by many houses for : ar 
one for all-day wear and has replaced the mannis] 


both day and evining. They may retain the ul e mal 
straight sheath lines established this sum- tailleur. I here are some tunic or tube crépe frocks 
ner or introduce the i fulne in the with crépe coats lined with woollen fabrics; 


] 


front or at the sides. In the evening, tunics are there are elaborate embroidered or patterned 


bodices with plain coats and skirts; or crépe de 
Chine bodices trimmed with applied designs of 
the wool composing the rest of the costume. I) 
every case, the coat just covers the tunic, whether 
the latter just clears the hem of the skirt, as is 
generally the case, or ends ten inches above it. 

Ihe ensemble idea is even carried into the 
evening mode, for the smartest dance frocks 
have wraps, in coat or cape effect, to ac- 


chly beaded or, more often, covered with 
paillettes in the daytime, they lurk beneath 
nost every ensemble. An interesting note is 
the introduction of rather short tunics, ending ten 
inches above the skirt length and covered by a 
coat of the same length. 

The jumper, an abbreviated version of the 
tunic for morning or sports wear, is developed 


in wool materials, with small collars and leather 
company them 


For the morning and for country wear, the 
tailored garconne frock of mannish wool fabric, 
kasha, or plaid materials is still good. There is, 


ts. following the favoured garconne idea. 
Chanel, who made a great deal of the jumper 





last season, is still developing it. For afternoon, 


there are velvet jumpers worn with circular 
skirts. Circular ruffles or bias trimmings are however, a tendency to get away from this boyish 
introduced on the skirts of crépe de Chine or type and to replace it with the more feminine 


sophisticated dress. Sometimes, it is made in 
jumper style, sometimes plain, with tiny collars, 
leather belts, and buttons for trimming. 


chiffon frocks to give the effect of a tun 
| interesting versions of the tunic-blouse 


1 pages 88, 91, and 92 of this issue. 





A satin tunic-blouse cut like a é < 
long waistcoat achieves the > > 
circular effect, which is the L 

newest note at present, at the 

sides by means of godets ex- , +N 


) ~*," . se 
: 4 


tending below the h ( E ey x 
uD | 





CAPES AND COATS Ay iad | 


There is a definite indication of the return of j j 
capes for every type of occasion. ‘Tailor-made, a‘ / 
circular capes for country wear accompany sports ‘ i 

jackets; narrow capes, circular, straight, or a few ‘ 7 e 
with slight fulness on the shoulders, will be the 
new note in street costumes. Sometimes, these are 
fur lined. The most striking of the new capes 
are straight, three-quarters length, and of leopard 
er tiger tissue, to be worn over brown frocks of 


crépe or heavier material. On afternoon or 
evening dresses, straight or circular shoulder 
capes are used. These are sometimes so narrow 


that they give the effect of the long panels swing- 
ing from the shoulder of afternoon or evening 
frocks. 

Separate coats that are long and narrow, hang- 
ing straight, are important. This type of coat is 
quite generally trimmed with a deep fur hem and 
collar. Some long coats have godets placed at the 
sides, keeping the front and back flat. The mor 
tailored coat which fastens with four buttons in 
front is qu:te popular. This is often of serge, rep, 
or a fancy woollen material. Separate coats are 





three-quarters or seven-eighths length, or entirely 
cover the frock over which they are worn | 
: Short jackets, always good for the country and { 
for the tailored suit in town, appear in con- { 
4 j junction with the new vogue for capes, which are y, 2/i 
j never very warm, —_— 














September 15 





a > 


s 


i 
: 
; 





THE MODE FOR EVENING 


Evening frocks are usually straight and plain, 
hanging from the shoulder in tunic or chemise 
effect, or retain, by means of the circular move- 
ment. the fluttering effects seen in the chiffon 
frocks of last summer. They are invariably s!eeve- 
less. The most prevalent décolletage is high in 
the front and somewhat lower in the back, often 
ina pointed V effect. 

A new note is the mixture of several different 
kinds of lace in one frock. Silver and gold metal 
lace in different shades are combined with strik- 
ing effect, as are coloured thin laces ranging 
through the red and purple tones. 

The straight sheath-gown is lavishly em- 
broidered or covered with gold or silver disks in 
different sizes, so artfully put on that they seem 
a part of some new rich fabric. Brilliant jewelled 
decorations are a striking note. Bead fringe is 
a favoured method of giving width at the feet, 
as is shown in the sketch at the right. Loose 
tab effects at the bottom of straight frocks are 
also used for the same purpose. Lamé is much 
used, sometimes with two shades in the same 
frock. Velvet retains its popularity in the 
mode, and in light colours, makes richly jewelled 
tunics with wraps to match—for the ensemble 
idea definitely extends into the evening. Black 
velvet is still a favourite and is usually made 
absolutely plain, often with a white flower trim- 
ming to carry out the vogue for black and white. 














FUR TRIMMINGS 


Fur is much seen as trimming, especially to 
emphasize the slightly circular trend of coats 
and frocks and to edge swinging panels. For 
this, the short-haired pelts are most favoured 
Leopard and tiger have been found extremely 
effective to harmonize with the black or brown 
colourings of street costumes. Mink retains 
its place in the mode. A novelty is the use of 
hare, treated to resemble fox and dyed to har- 
monize with the costume. All of these furs are 
used either in several small rows or in a broad 
band at the bottom of tunic or chemise frocks. 


AFTERNOON FROCKS 


The most striking formal afternoon frocks 
are those made of sheer materials, with 
gathered or pleated apron, straight or circular 
capes, and floating panels. Two shades of the 
same colour are often used for these, with 
flounces at the bottom of the tunics. Flounces, 
incidentally, are still very good. The perfectly 
straight, simple frock of black or brown vel- 
vet retains its hold on the mode. The after- 
noon models do not, nowadays, differ very 
noticeably from morning attire, for the cos- 
tume that is worn before noon very often has 
to be chosen with the prospect of shopping, 
lunching, and, perhaps, a matinée. 
































FABRICS 


Scotch plaids appear everywhere in thi 
country and alone or in combination wit 
plain material in town. Plain or figured kasl 
cloth is first in importance for tailored day 
time costumes, with cashmeres, men’s woolle1 
fabrics in checks or plaids, ribbed woollens 
and reps next in order. Ribbed silks, otto- 
mans, velvets, crépes, georgette crépes, and 
satins rule for the afternoon. In the evening 
lace is rivalling chiffon for the fluttering ty; 
of frock; velvet or lamé is used for sheatl 
gowns, satin or lamé for draped ones, crép 
or velvet for the heavily beaded or bugled 
frocks hanging straight from the shouldet 
Some panne velvet is seen, but is not ¢91 
spicuous. 


COLOURS 


For colours, black, the range of browns, and 
the brick and rust shades predominate for th: 
daytime. There are a very few navy-blues 
some bottle-greens, a very few fabrics—usu- 
ally velvets—showing graded shades of the 
same colour. In the evening, reds, violet, and 
purples are the newest notes with, perhaps 
most emphasis on the purples. The lam 
fabrics and jewelled embroideries give a 
shimmering jewel-like effect to the evening 
mode. 










VOGUE 





































7%) QO , AS 
: 7 Oe 4A a ( Li 4 YNQUNebs Ciuninak 2h) 
CEES €* Cf oe 
“ALAA O00) ( INQ ompaaou l A 
ee tale /) //O ff OP 
Ob UNA CAN Y UN 
yn —™ ys, fit ott 
Lu uy ( Mthen (tube OW) 
OV) YT f) 
Of Phe Yadded Yast 


HE PARISIENNE 
FOR. CHIC 














il 
; 


} 
j 





% | 


‘AVERY? 





ONSIDER the day when th 
costume au fait included 
petticoats that stuck out 
feathers that stuck up, and unre- 
lenting stays that forced the figure 
into that astounding shape, th: 
hour-glass! Then, consider the chic 
Parisienne as she promenades in the 
Bois in her one-piece kasha frock 
and straight-line kasha coat—a 
perfection of slim smartness, a 
smartness of unaffected simplicity 
and vivid accessories. There is no 
echo of the laced shoes and black 
stockings of yesterday in the pumps 
and sheer pale stockings of to-day. 
The frilled and obvious petticoat 
has been reduced to the least pos- 
sible denominator and is ofttimes 
eliminated altogether. The atrocity 
of whalebone becomes merely a bras- 
siére or a pliable corset. And where 
is the crowning glory of woman, 
that mass of hair that took thirty 
minutes and forty-two hairpins to 
achieve? It is shorn to a crown of 
chic and supports a dashing dimin- 
utive hat of felt that can have no 
possible relation to the beflowered 
Even the “parapliie” of fashion and feathered affair of yesteryear. The scarf of crépe marocain, 
is abbreviated, the more so the with fecds at the end, is chic 
better, and these stubby um- with a freck to match, and 
brellas are seen everywhere in : Reboux has designed two new 
Paris, in rain and shine alike. kasha scarfs, for autumn frocks, 
Gloves of heavy antelope or in plaids and stripes with a 
suéde accompany most frocks kasha lining in solid colour 


ny’ 











(Left) The large envelop: 
purse is an important item 
for the costume ensemble 
and is usually carried unde: 
the arm. These may be in 
vivid red or green, to bring 

contrasting dash of col- 
our, or they may be in 
black or beige 


















15 

































September 
4 
Ler 
Ff 7 
ie 
Miss de Wolfe's small chapeau 
would put any flowered hat of 
other days to shame with its 
chic and charm. It is of ante- 
lope fur with a diamond pin 
and « brief veil- 
¥ \SA 
ey Ss 
NLv 
The ring with a large diamand or a 
large pearl is the ring favoured by 
the smart Parisienn: 
7, fm 
tj te, yy, y= L 
Aj hy / / . J 
‘ = j j fi f* 
ee } } M/S fit; f 
y§y 
lina id 
One of the most important jewellery 
innovations of the season is this new 
bracelet invented by Cartier. It is of 
gold or silver wire, coiled closely like 
a Spring. Miss Elsie de Wolfe 
combined one slave bracelet with 
several of the new ones 
, 
= a fl fe ! 
= ei Ee 
(Right) Here is the Parisienne’s . 
solution of the corset problem, a | { 
combination girdle and brassiére + +> . ’ 
of rose taffeta from Julie Morand, ij 
which can scarcely be recognized ail P , 
as belonging to the same family as 
the tortuous affairs of the de- My ++ 8 ++ 
parted wasp-waisted cra + 4 7a 
toe 
Loe a 
+> So be a 
ss coe a sy 
} i ; 
so ee 
| 1 
‘i Lat + 
ass 

















(Left) The rule of three 
has a clever application in @ ny 
this new scarf composed 


of three single scarfs twisted 
around the neck one. ; / 
The hat is by Reboux 


as 


Pearls and carrings are shown 
as they should be worn in the 
afternoon to accompany a sii 
ple frock and a ‘“Florentin” 
hat of cut felt with a feather 
a concession to 


as 


“fantaisie” 
French formality 








chemise may constitut 


+ (Left) A 


Ee ae 3 eis j : 
the single piece of lingerie for thé 


Parisienne’s outfit. This chemise 

a has the circular, slenderizing cut, 

; \ with deep armholes and back. It 

is of fuchsia crépe de Chine with 

purple binding and little flowers 
encrusted on the front 














The National Golf Course on Shinnecock Hills is one o} 
Everything about it is excellent, even to the food served at the Club House 
sketch shows the sensible clothes worn by the women—clothes that are 


SOUTHAMPTON 


ees 


2m open paneer = a mmm i 2 





because they are appropriate 


—-THE 


of the finest in the 


PLACE 


VOGUE 









world 
This 


smart 


10 PLAY 


This Resort, on the Shores of Long Island, Is a Spot Where 


The Fashionable World Finds Freedom, Rest, and Amusement 


NOUTHAMPTON, the most attractive sum- 
mer colony of its particular kind, is similar 
in many respects to hundreds of seaside 

resorts in America. The life is simple and repre- 
sentative of the kind enjoyed all over the United 
States, and, because of this, the type of summer 
clothes worn there is of almost universal inter- 
est. First, it is quite obvious that there is 
a far greater attempt at convenience and 
suitability than at smartness. The chic 
woman in New York, or Newport, is infin- 
itely careful of all details of her costume 
and, more than that, will constantly discard 
a frock or a hat simply because she feels 
that it is no longer in the height of the mode 
At Southampton, however, comfort and 
practicality are considered, as well as chic. 

In the daytime, in Southampton, the 
clothes come definitely under the head of 
sports or semi-sports costumes. The whole 
place has an atmosphere of simplicity, and, 
while it is obvious that the people aim at 
having the best of everything and succeed 
in acquiring an outstanding excellence in 
all that they do, it is a simple, strenuous, 
wholesome summer life that is represented. 

There is much bobbed hair. Many of the 
young girls simply wear handkerchiefs to 
bind their hair. The hats, both large and 
small, are ribbon trimmed in the majority 
of cases. There are few, if any, gloves 
those that are seen are usually of the 
washable variety. There are no mesh veils 
—only a few heavy ones to avoid sunburn 

but there is an absolute flock of Japan- 
ese glazed paper sunshades. 

One notices a great deal of white, perhaps 
because the sun is so strong that it would, 
unquestionably, fade clothes in pastel shades; 
but the white is dotted, both in small and 
large areas, by quantities of the most vivid 
colours. Next to white, yellow seems to be 
the highest favourite; all shades of deep 
rose follow in popularity. One notices many 


worn: 


sweaters and a great many knitted white silk coats, 
some with designs in gay colours—an effect at 
once dazzling and appropriate to the time and place. 

The most popular frock, while it is not new, 
proves its good points by the fact that, appar- 
ently, it is going to withstand time—our time, 
at least. This is the little dress that consists of 


S 
LQG MACtid_AagAiAiAXOGOikilw_ Bq Ww iTi_ TEA As Ww 





RRARRWVWNVC.wW DD 


“International Newsreel” 


a blouse and skirt, the skirt either pleated or 
plain and hemstitched, the slip-on blouse with 
either long or short sleeves. These frocks are 
usually made of crépe de Chine. Mrs. Yuille 
Sturgis wore, at Southampton, a very pretty 
costume of this type, of canary coloured crépe 
de Chine: the skirt was made in tiny box pleats, 
and the overblouse, closed in front by button; 
at a collarless neck-line, had excessively short 
sleeves. It was beltless—the little blouse 
hanging straight and hugging the _ hips. 
With this, she wore a large hat of rough 
brown straw with a band about it of 
brilliant foulard in such colours as vivid 
yellow and red. Mrs. Julian Gerard wore, 
the same day, a similar frock, also of yellow 
crépe with a skirt in wide pleats, It had 
long sleeves and a turned-down collar, held 
together in front by one black and one white 
pearl. Otherwise, it was devoid of trim- 
ming. With this, she wore a yellow felt hat 
trimmed with a wreath of flowers, and she 
carried one of the paper parasols. Mrs. 
James L. Breese, junior, is another woman 
who is fond of this type of dress. One of her 
many is made with long sleeves and a plain 
skirt trimmed only with hemstitching. It 
is of crépe in deep peach colour, a shade 
that is exquisite with her beautiful red 
hair. This little frock has, as may be seen, 
definitely found a place this summer. Miss 
Eleanor Lawrence is another who wears 
a crépe dress of this kind in white, with a 
large white hat, as shown in the sketch at 
the upper left on page 75. 
(Continued on page 154) 


(Left) Mrs. Eugene Thayer and 
Mr. A. Ronald Tree were photo- 
graphed as they walked along the 
beach under the Southampton sun 
—which makes the wearing of 
white dazzling, but practical 


blll COMME: 

















September 


On the walk from 
the beach, the artist 
sketched a smart 
trio: Mrs. Goodhue 
Lavingston, junior, 
in a knitted dress; 
Miss Eleanor Law- 
rence, in a_ white 
crépe de Chine frock 
and white horse- 
hair hat; and Mrs. 
J. Couper Lord in 
a white and gaily 
coloured costume 


(Right) On these 
sands, colours vie 
with white for popue 
larity. In the centre, 
seated, is Miss 
Rosalie Pillot in a 
crépe de Chine dress 
and a very large hat 
—two smart notes. 
Princess Rospigliosi 
stands behind her, 
in a white silk knit- 
ted sports frock 


15 














International 





Mrs James L. Breese, junior, is 
seen here in the garden of Mr. and 
Mrs. Breese’s beautiful place at 
Southampton. The flowers in this 


garden, as in all seaside gardens, 


seem to be more colourful because 
of the rich soil or the salt air 


tang (°e 






it 
(ue = 
7 Vly 
Ja, k 
So - SEX 
~~ x 
Ve, ‘ 
a fd ' 
Pg a) 
\wis EE ¢ 
we i" 
iad & &* 
kA ~ 
Ww + od 5 
re 
a “ Yor 
e ap ‘ al 
au e 
“tw 
~ or 
baked 
wa od 
me ™ i 
ww 
wy 


I valh> 


Mrs. August Bel 
mont, junior, an 
her daughter, Mi 
Alice Beliont, a 
recorded by the ar 
ist’s pencil whil 
standing by thi 
motor. The mot 





»? 


plays an important 


part in the life of 


Southam pton—it 
used as constantly 
and effectively as the 


fabled iagic carpet 








VOGUE 






THE COSTUMES OF 


UML be 





SOCIETY REFLECT 







DL hgedddddadaaaiaidddu 







THE BRILLIANCE OF 





THE NEWPORT SEASON 


Mrs. George F. Baker, junior, who 
visited Newport in August just be- 
fore she sailed Jor Europe, and Mrs. 
William Fitshugh Whitehouse both 
sponsor the vogue of white top-coats. 
Mrs. Whitehouse is one of the most 
popular women at Newport 


Mrs. Vincent Astor wears a brightly 
fluwered frock as she walks on the 
beach with Mr. William Rhinelander 
Stewart, junior. Mr. and Mrs. Astor 
epened their place at Newport and 
haz ulded greatly to the gaietyv of 


lite Suililer season 








OL Yt WOOO DO 


MMOLE: 


Mrs. R. Livingston Beeckman, the 
wife of ex-Governor Beeckman, and 
Mrs. William Goadby Loew, two of 
the most popular hostesses of the 
famous watecring-place, take a sun- 


shaded stroll 


MOLL PLD 


(Righ*) Mrs. George Bolling Lee 
and her daughter, Mary Walker 
Lee, make a charming study in 
white. Mrs. Lee is the wife of 
the proninent New York surgeon 


GLOOI MOLLY 


LETS, 


Me 


(Left Mrs. Roderick Tower, 
who, with Mr. Tower, spent the 
summer at Newport, was Miss 
Flora P. Whitney. She is the 
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Harry 
eee Payne Whi ney 









SRR 


‘International N seni - 
1 ewsreel Four Photographs by Alexander A. Brown 




















Septem per £5 


An unusual table 
lecoration is a pic- 
turesque antique 
pewter ship flank- 
ed by two heavy 
silver candlesticks. 
Ruby glassware 
gives arich colour 
candlesticks 
Black, Starr 
and Frost 


note; 
fron 


flarvey White 


RUSS 





[TAN RECIPES FOR THE 


Laurel leaves and 
white feather lilies 
form a decoratiz 
strip between t 
narrow linen run 
ners laid length- 
wise under the 
service pla tes 
glass, flat silver, 
and ship fro 
Ovington 


hi 


HOS TESS 


A Cook Book tor the Gourmet Makes the Reader Hunger for a Taste of Dishes 


With a Foreign Flavour, Invented in Some Faraway, Aristocratic Kitchen 


EADING The Borzoi Cook Book, written 
by Princess Alexandre Gagarine, is !ike 
reading memoirs of the past or the history 

of a submerged continent where once civilization 
flourished. Her recipes, all of them Russian, 
belong to the days when food was cheap and 
plentiful, as it was, no doubt, at the time when 
the house of Madame Dragomirov, wife of the 
Governor-General of Kiev, was famous for its 
table. We are informed that it was at the request 
of her friends that she compiled a collection of 
recipes and that she pub!ished it with great 
success in Russia. It must have been in pre-War 
Russia, when rich people had money and spent 
it leisurely. For it is a little frightening even 
to think of a soup, for six people, for which thirty 
cucumbers and a pint and a quarter of cream are 
required; or of a “soup purée of game” for which 
are wanted three pounds of beef and three grouse 
or partridges, among other ingredients. How 
pathetically different are these ideals from those 
of the thrifty French bourgeoise or of the Italian 
housekeeper; how remote, aloof in their magni- 
ficence, from those of the homely Englishwoman, 
like the one who complained the other day in a 
paper that the modern girl “can’t even cook a 
decent kipper!” I suppose it is, once more, a 
case of “autres pays, autres macurs.” 
A CUISINE OF LUXURY 

But reading The Borzoi Cook Book is also like 
a peep, on the day visitors are allowed, into 
the houses of the great; like coming into a 
palatial kitchen full of lovely smells. Russia was 
always a country of bonne cuisine, and, in the 
same way that the Russian ballet was based on 
French and Italian traditions, Russian cooking 


By X. MARCEL BOULESTIN 


derived its inspiration from the classical French 
fount and produced dishes more elaborate, more 
sumptuous, and sometimes with that touch of 
barbarity which always appeals to jaded and 
highly civilized palates. In fact, Russian cooking 
is the nearest approach in our modern times to 
what Roman cooking, at the time of Trimaliso 
or Apicus Coelius, must have been. 

“Faites un roux” is the beginning of practically 
every French sauce; this process is in this 
Russian work called “flour butter” and is exactly 
the same. And we find the same way of browning 
onions or challots, of frying meat before stewing: 
in fact, the basis of these recipes duplicates th 
cooking of the centre of France, done with the 
best butter only, with occasional use of the garlic 
dear to the south, and the addition of enormous 
quantities of cream, either fresh or sour. 

Judging from these recipes and from what 
one has heard about Russian I-fe, the food there 
must be quite wonderful. I understand that the 
raw materials are of the best qualify, cream and 
butter are of incomparable excellence, beef as 
good as the best “English fed.” game plentiful. 
while the fruit of southern Russia is of incredib! 
beauty and flavour. The meals are long and 
elaborate, beginning with hundreds of elaborate 
zakouski (hors dcuvres), continuing with one 


For dishes exotic or every-day, serv- 
ing follows a conservative pattern. 
Four dollars (postage prepaid) 
spent on Vogue’s Book of Etiquette 
will save the hostess many a bad 
half hour 


of these remarkable soups, with which are always 
served various attractive piroshki (meat patties 
in puff paste), after which one is ready to begin 
eating in earnest. 

M. Claude Anet, who knows a great deal about 
Russia and almost as much about food, relates 
how, when once travelling in Russia, “in those 
days when refreshment rooms in stations offered 
you every kind of delicious dishes—it sounds now 
like a fairy-tale,” he arrived at a station called 
Sisran, some thousand milesfrom Moscow, “There 
was, in the Russian fashion, an hour and a half 
to wait; I ordered a filet de bauf aux cham- 
pignons. I waited a quirter of an hour, thirty- 
five minutes; at last, tired of waiting, I called 
the waiter. ‘In a miinute, barine, ina minute’.... 
I could not understand why it took so long to 
carve a slice of beef from the joint. At last. hi 
brought me a whole fillet of beef, tender, delicious, 
which had been roasted specially for me, and 
mushrooms swimming in a cream sauce—a fillet 
better than anything I have ever had in the most 
famous Paris restaurant. That is what the 
cooking was in Russia in a station buffet, mi'e; 
:way from anywhere.” 

EXOTIC RUSSIAN DISHES 

That fillet of beef with the mushrooms in 
cream sauce is, no doubt, in Princess Gagarine’s 
book; if not precisely this one, there are others 
equally good, and there are marvellous soups, 
and curious ways of “doing” fish, and amusin« 
jams, and all sorts of (for us) exotic dishes. It 
would be useless to pretend that this book is the 
ideal one for general use, but some of the dishes 
should be tried by those who really care for 


(Continued on page 162) 





78 VOGUE 


RR ne cn I } 
cone nnn ee a ne ean 











ciesdiidienetieanenitinemnnaeniaae a ae 


AT A SASS Sasa 
RRR 











Steicnen 


MRS. HERBERT CLAIBORNE PELL, JUNIOR 


Mrs. Pell is the wife of Mr. Herbert Claiborne 

Pell, junior, who is actively and successfully 

interested in politics. During the winter months, 

Mr. and Mrs. Pell live in their New York 

house; at present, they are spending the summer 
in Newport 














mere ateus 

















September 15 


HEADS, FRONTS, 


AND THE ALTOGETHER 


Every Woman Should Ask Herself Whether What She Looks Like 


Goes with What She Has on and Whether All the Items Agree; 


So Only Will She Present a Well-Dressed Whole to the World 


F humans were standard in the matter of head, face, and 

figure, how much easier dressing would be! Proportion in the 

average skeleton-bones, inclusive of the skull, and in the con- 
tour of the average face would make the subject of apparel and 
ornamentation as simple as A.B.C. But Nature, unfortunately, 
has not given to most of us the lovely looks of fashion-plate ladies. 
Those exquisitely attenuated, gracefully reedy shapes which de- 
light our sophisticated eyes in the pages of the best magazines 
have not many of their like among us mortals. The little heads, 
the delicate, disdainful features, the slender necks, are lacking in 
the rank and file of their admirers, and, even when smallish tops 
and passible lineaments are ours, we probably have not height, 
nor the sort of limbs that go with height. One has only to 
look at a sketched figure wearing a certain gown and hat, and the 
snap-shot of a figure wearing the duplicate, to be convinced that 
humanity as it is often suffers by contrast with humanity as it is 
depicted by the artist. 


UT since, after all, it is humanity that wears the clothes 

(looking more like itself and less like fashion-plates than 
it altogether fancies), then the first thing for it to do is to recog- 
nize its limitations and make the most of its good points. Its 
limitations may be many and its good points few, but it is aston- 
ishing what can be done with a little clever care. If a woman has 
the wit to determine her type and adopt its attributes, she needs 
advice from no one. if she has no wit, she may be incapable of 
benefitting by any advice offered. But, somewhere between these 
two extremes, there are regiments of women all eager for hints 
and anxious to make use of them, and if any goose declares she 
doesn’t know what is meant by determining type, she is referred 
to that pleasant game of describing people by the characteristics 
they share with certain animals, vegetables, and minerals. 


O for example, let us take Susannah; not divinely tall, in 

fact, rather square-shouldered, full-bosomed, and thick-set, 
with sandy hair, kind, hazel eyes, and a complexion like an 
autumn peach. What animal is she like? A fine Alderney heifer; 
heautiful and imperturable. What flower? A double stock or 
a soft, pink peony. What vegetable? A Jerusalem artichoke. 
What fruit? The best kind of juicy apple. What mineral? Gold. 
What jewel? A roval amethyst. Now, if by this time the company 
has not taken in Susannah’s general make-up, and can not see 
that the extreme of current fashion is not for her in its entirety, 
that a slip-on dress of the width of an umbrella-case and a hat 
about the size of a peanut are not the garments in which to attire 
her wholesome, rural picturesqueness, there will be little use in 
continuing to expound any theories of dress to that audience. One 
must have some imagination to work upon. 


RANTED a mere modicum of this, a pinch of humour, and 

the least scrap of common sense, and everything is possible. 
Susannah will grasp at once that she must lean towards an am- 
pler cut of clothes, towards the more generous shapes in hats, 
towards lines that tend to elongate without too much defining the 
figure; that a happy, rather mature serenity looks out of her 
large eyes and must be taken into account; that she may consider 
colouring and expression her strong points and fear no shade 
that is appropriate to her surroundings and her occupations, 
while she exercises the greatest caution about the sort of model 
she adopts. Clothes which suggest healthy activities abroad and 
the household goddess at home are for Susannah. Not that she 
must defy fashion—perish the thought! But she must consider 
the general aspect of it only, and so modify its details that they 
will become her particular personality. 


ADGE, on the contrary, with a mischievous, ugly little 

face, and a slim, active figure, may make herself the last 
word in smartness. She has a pair of sparkling eyes, nicely ringed 
round with eyelashes as bold and black as those painted upon a 
doll, and she must dress principally for her eyes. Being small 
and slight, clothes of even an extravagant -fancifulness do not 
look out of place upon her; about colours, she fust_be wary, be- 
cause her underlying tint is olive and her hait’ russet when it 
should have been black, but she may buy the most exaggerated 
models and remind us pleasantly of the Princess Metternich who 
called herself a “petit singe d la mode.” If Madge had shot up 
unduly and carried at the end of her long body-a quite babyish 
countenance with china-blue eyes and an absurd pug nose, like 
her cousin Alison, she would have a much harder time of it. Ali- 
son truly does not know how to select the sort of hats that go with 
her head and with the garments that suit the rest of her; a child’s 
face on a grenadier’s frame really is a proposition. We advise 
Alison to consider the trappings of her body as of the first im- 
portance, for the “ensemble” is the view the world gets of her; her 
infantine features are incidents to be considered only in connec- 
tion with her whole. 


O look at herself from a distance and take in a general im- 

pression of her own outline and appearance is something 
every woman ought to do, and, if she uses the eyesight heaven gave 
her and does not see just what she thinks she would like to see, it 
will not make her vain. It will teach her to refrain from putting 
horizontal bands round a tub-like shape and crowning the same 
with a button; or from accenting with vertical lines a figure like 
a blade of grass, and capping it with a thimble; or from extin- 
guishing a short, chubby person with an umbrella-round of 
millinery—at least, goodness knows it should! 





VOGUE 


PROMINENT AMERICAN AND BRITISH FIGURES IN THE 


(Right) Mr. Devereux Mil- 
burn, the captain, as well as 
gene ral of the American 
defenders of the famous Inter- 
national Challenge Cup, is oni 
of the greatest polo players in 
the world and the modest 
Posse ssor o} the keenest pola 


brains 














jtographs hy 


Three “ 
Iwin Levick 


pl 
Kx 











Oaul Thompson 


Mr. Louis E. Stoddard, Chai 
man of the U.S. Polo Associa- 
tion, is himself an excellent 
player, but with characteristic 
self-sacrifice retired from in- 
ternational competition this 
year to make room for younger 
blood. He learned his polowith 
Mr. Harry Payne Whitne 


Mr. J. Watson Webb is one of 
the very few left-handers whe 


have made a success of polo 
1 cool and heady sportsman, 
his deadly accuracy with the 
mallet always wins him de- 
served respect, even from the 
most redoubtable opposiiion 


Mr.Thomas Hitchcock, junior, 
was the “infant prodigy’ of 
polo and has developed with 
manhood into an astonishingly 
spectacular and courageous 
player. He is second only to 
Mr. Milburn as chief defender 
of American hopes 


QQ 























September 





INTERNATIONAL POLO MATCHES AT WESTBURY, LONG’ ISLAND 



















UCH exceptional polo has_ been 

carded at the Meadow Brook Club 

for the month of September, that it 
is small wonder it has attracted so prom- 
inent a figure as the Prince of Wales, as 
well as leaders of American society and 
thousands of enthusiastic followers of 
this blue-blooded sport. 

Into one month, the polo powers of 
\merica have crowded a series with the 
best four from Great Britain for pos- 
session of the famous International Chal- 
lenge Cup (won last in 1921 by the 
\mericans, but since 1886 won four 


Central News 


H. R. H. the Prince of 
Wales, Baron Renfrew, is 
so interested in polo that 
he arranged to bring six 
of his own polo ponies to 
the matches at the Mea- 
dow Brook Club, to en- 
able him to participate in 
some of the informa! 
matches 


Pictorial Press 


Major V. N. Lockett, 
long a leader of British 
and Continental polo, 
seldom seems a bril- 





times by the United States and fou 
times by Great Britain), a tourname 
for the popular Monte Waterbury Cuj 
and another for the Open Championship 
of the United States 

The best polo players of the Englisl 
speaking world are to be seen on th 
historic fields of the Meadow Broo 
Club at Westbury, Long Island. This 
means that the finest competitors of tl 
sport are there, with so few exceptions 
that a child could count them on the fi 
gers of one hand. 

PETER VISCHE! 


Mr. Luis L. Lacey 
a British-born player 
from the Argentine 
a beautiful playe 
watch, an accom 





liant player, but is al- 
vays to be depended 
upon as a last line of 
defense. The Ameri- 
can forwards will have 


/ 


to pass him to win 


(Right) Lieutenant- 
Colonel T.P.Melvill is 
a promising member of 
the English challeng- 
ing four of 1924, who 
are now playing at 
Westbury, Long Is- 
land. The photograph 
shows him in action 
at the Meadow Brook 
Club at Westbury 





International Newsreel 





plished horseman, « 
smart stroker, a dare 

devil with a swinging 
malict who looks like 


y 


a wild-riding Cossack 








FRR EN BIO BE, 





Pe i MM RIE nl 








Nickolas Muray 


~ VOR three seasons, the New York 
stage has been reading the chauvinists an 
excellent lesson in the advantages of seventy- 

five per cent. Americanism over the Simon-pure 
variety. To our hospitable shores have flocked 
many of the greatest theatre-folk of Europe— 
Stanislavsky and Katchaloff, Reinhardt and 
Korff, Balieff and Charlot, Féraudy and Sorel, 
and, above all, Duse. We might very well have 
cheered these people and blessed them for their 
art, even if it had driven our own from the boards 
As a matter of fact, it did nothing of the kind. 
So far as anybody can guess, its effect was just 
the opposite. It stimulated the American stage 
instead of stultifying it. The same thing has 
always happened when a great troupe of actors 
have visited another land. The English comedi- 
ans of the early seventeenth century, visiting Ger- 
many, set the dukes and princes to founding court 
theatres. The Italian comedians captured Paris, 
ind then Moliére came. -Charles Kean’s reani- 
mations of Shakspere stirred the German stage. 
The Meiningen players of that tiny dukedom, 
visiting Russia, spurred on Stanislavsky. The 
curious thing about the European invasion of 
Broadway has been that native drama, new play- 
a fresh impulse towards dramatic crea- 
set in during these same years when 
have stimulated American 


two or 


wrights, 
tion have 
Continental 
players. 

The new season may show a slight falling off 
in the unfavourable balance of trade. There may 
not be so many histrionic visitors. But that is 
by no means certain, and already a bumper crop 
of native plays seems assured. Dramas by Ameri- 
cans are never the staple of the earliest man- 
agerial announcements. Plans for foreign 
visitors and projects for American stars are the 
usual thing. The good plays of winter time turn 
up hardly at all heralded. Indeed. the best work 
seems frequently to come from unknowns whom 
no manager wou!d waste his breath over 


actors 








J 





4 


KENNETH /MACGOWAN 


This season, however, there are already inter- 
esting promises of new American plays, and I 
shall list some of these before I write of foreign 
visitors. First of all, one must mention three 
plays by Eugene O'Neill, with a fourth in some- 
what hazy prospect. One comes from the Theatre 
Guild. According to present plans, the Guild 
will open its new and ambitiously designed theatre 
with “The Fountain,” a picturesque, philosophic 
drama of Poncede Leon written inrhythmed prose. 
Two others will come from the group associated 
with the Provincetown Playhouse: “Desire under 
the Elms” and “The Great God Brown.” Upon 
a fourth play, dealing with Marco Polo, O’Neill 
is now at work. 

Owen Davis promises two new pieces through 
the agency of Sam H. Harris—when and if the 
quarrel with the Equity is settled. These plays 
are “The Haunted House” and “Lazybones.” The 
playwriting firm of Kaufman and Connelly will 
be active both in partnership and in separate 


ventures. Kaufman has joined Edna Ferber in 


VOGUE 


(Left) For the first time, 
Alfred Lunt and Lynn 
Fontanne—in other words, 
Mr. and Mrs. Lunt—will 
appear on the stage to- 
gether. These talented young 
players will star as the 
actor and his wife in “The 
Guardsman,” a new play 
by Ferenc Molnar, to open 
in October, under the aus- 
pices of the Theatre Guild 


a dramatization of her story, “Old Man Minnick.” 
Kaufman and Connelly, together with Louis 
Gensler, have turned out a new musical comedy, 
“Where Am I?” to rival their “Helen of Troy, 
N. Y.’; the same Queenie Smith who figured in 
the latter piece will appear in the new one, and 
she will have Jack Donahue, the excellent comic 
dancer, to aid her. After some seasons’ lapse, 
another comedy comes from Frank Craven, author 
of “The First Year.” It is “Fool’s Hill.” Still 
nother of our very adept writers, George Kelly, 
has new work to show: “The Experiment.” The 
Theatre Guild has “They Knew What They 
Wanted,” by Sidney Howard, “Processional,” by 
John Howard Lawson, “King Lear,” with Ru- 
dolph Schildkraut, “The Guardsman,” and a 
Shaw play, “Cesar and Cleopatra.” 

New men from other literary fields come for- 
ward in John Farrar and Stephen Vincent Benet, 
iuthors of “Nerves” and of “The Awful Mrs. 
Eaton,” an historical romance of Andrew Jack- 
times; in Stark Young, author of ‘The 
Saint” and “The Colonnade”; in Edmund Wilson, 
author of “The Crime in the Whistler Room”: 
ind in J. V. A. Weaver, author of “Love ’Em and 
Leave "Em.” Maxwell Anderson and Laurence 
Stallings, out of journalism, bring Arthur Hop- 
kins a play of the Marines, “What Price Glory ?” 
Among other American plays crowding forward 
in the early months of the season are “The Green 
Beetle,” a melodrama by John Willard, author of 
“The Cat and the Canary”; “Sunshine,” by Wil- 
liam Dugan, a sequel to “Rain,” in which we 
shall meet Sadie Thompson’s daughter; “Pigs,” 
a play by Ann Morrison and Patterson McNutt; 
1 dramatization by Miss Morrison and John 
Peter Toohey of the latter’s stories about Wesley 
“Foam,” a play by Benjamin Glazer, in 
which Pauline Lord will appear; “In His Arms,” 
1 comedy for Margaret Lawrence, written by 
iuthor of “Meet the Wife”; and 


Lynn Starling 
(Continued on page 120) 


son’s 


Jones; 




















~ 


ptember 15 





‘Cheeni tI 
Edward Thayer Monroe 


(Right) The new 
Operetta, “Rose- 
Marie,” has as its 
star Mary Ellis, a 
very gifted young 
fimerican who was 
with the Metro- 
politan last year 
and from whom 
the musical world 
is expecting great 
things 








LE LOOLBE LOE ARIE ALE RE PYG 


Nickolas Muray 





(Right) Genevieve 
“Little Old New 
is co-starring with 


Shaw and Walter 
in a new musical 


Tobin, 


vhose piquant charm 


7” 


Vork” 
will not soon be forgotten 
Oscar 


Catlett 


con 


by Jerome Kern 


(Left) Billie Burke, more 
charming than ever with 
her bobbed hair, is appear- 
ing in a Ziegfeld produc- 
tion called “Annabelle,” a 
comedy with music adapted 
by Clare Kummer from 
her play, “Good Gracious 
Annabelle” 


] 


Cay 








Alfred Cher 





Vv 








84 VOGUE 


THE JABOT FROCK 1S PERFECTED BY CALLOT 


























MODELS ON THESE TWO 
PAGES FROM BRUCK WEISS 


Although all the couturiers 
in Paris are emphasizing th 
jabot to some extent, Callot 
is giving it especial skill 
and attention. The latest 
version follows the black 
and white mode in black 
satin and white crépe de 
Chine, joined down the 
front and on the sleeves by 


gold galloon ribbon, which 
7 


also makes thre ol 


s 







































































September 15 


CALLOT ENTERS 


Fanciful tracery in_ rose, 
violet, and gold thread 
lends additional charm to 
a stmple cream velvet Callot 
gown with a panel back 
caught in at the waist-line 
and lined with green satin. 
Gold embroidery predom- 
inates on the bodice and 
voke, which is of mousse- 
line de soie exactly match- 
ing the cream velvet 


THE EVENING WITH VELVET 


TREAD 
























































86 











(Right) Velvet and felt are used 
together with great success in this 
delightful hat, the shape of which 
is very unusual. It is excellent for 
street wear—as are the other hats 
shown on these two pages—, and 
its mellow cinnamon-blond tone 
harmonizes well with many furs 
(a smart point, this season) and 
with the red-browns of the mode 














VO 


(Left) Truly, the autumn mode is 
well-red and sophisticated in its 
simplicity. This felt sailor hat— 
with chic, severe lines and a bow of 
garnet satin and velvet ribbon—s 
a deep garnet-red. The use of two 
kinds of ribbon in the same hat is 
typical of smart millinery—favoured 
especially by Reboux, who can tie a 
bow as few other designers can 


MODELS ON THESE TWO 
PAGES IMPORTED BY THURN 





GUE 




















September isd 








The height of fashion is maintained, this 
year, by building up the crowns and softly 
flaring brims of the beret type of hat— 
brims that invariably fall into tricorne shape 
at the sides. This charmingly smart velvet 
model is in the deep, rich purple favoured 
by a season that glories in the warm end of 
the colour scale 


CJHREE 


HEAD-NOTES 
from : EBOUX 












VOGUE 






























































THE TUNIC IS OVER \ND L\BONVI AL! OLHER MODES 


























INERY MODE 


\ 





Z. 
= 


HAT FROM BRUCK WEISS 


COLOUR 


KS 











RPL 

















September 15 





PU 














8h VOGUE 


(Left) Truly, the autumn mode is 
well-red and sophisticated in its 
simplicity. This felt sailor hat— 
with chic, severe lines and a bow of 
garnet satin and velvet ribbon—is 
a deep garnet-red. The use of two 
kinds of ribbon in the same hat is 
typical of smart millinery—favoured 
especially by Reboux, who can tie a 
bow as few other designers can 


MODELS ON THESE TWO 
PAGES IMPORTED BY THURN 




















(Right) Velvet and felt are used 
together with great success in this 
delightful hat, the shape of which 
is very unusual. It is excellent for 
street wear—as are the other hats 
shown on these two pages—, and 
its mellow cinnamon-blond tone 
harmonizes well with many furs 
(a smart point, this season) and 
with the red-browns of the mode 









September 15 








The height of fashion is maintained, this 
year, by building up the crowns and softly 
flaring brims of the beret type of hat— 
brims that invariably fall into tricorne shape 
at the sides. This charmingly smart velvet 
model is in the deep, rich purple favoured 
by a season that glories in the warm end of 
the colour scale 


CTHREE 


HEAD*NCTES 


prom. RBOU 











VOGUE 





























ee © OSS Oe OH OPC AS SOC HEE EEE Ce 


> 
‘ 
‘ 
‘ 
e 
. 
‘ 
. 
‘ 
J 
‘ 
‘ 
7 
’ 
* 
' 
' 
9 
. 
. 
® 
‘ 
e 
/ 








oases RNS 


sare eae BR streaeeSS wa 




















FROM BRUCK WEISS 


Few really smart suits go out uncccompanied 
by a long tunic-blouse this season. This blouse 
is of white georgette crépe with interesting 
points bound with bias bands of the crépe 
itself. With the black satin that makes the 
coat and skirt, it is a striking example of the 
enduring chic of black and white 


THE TUNIC IS OVER AND 


Black satin, in so heavy a quality that it can be 

worn in all but extremely cold weather, makes 

this Patou model which illustrates many points 

of the winter mode—the smartest length for 

coats, the straight silhouette, and the use of 

vegetable satin, shiny on the right side and dull 
on the wrong, used here as a binding 


ABOVE ALL OTHER MODES 


September 15 89 












































HAT FROM BRUCK WEISS 


The new mode in millinery has a deep purple tinge, to say 

nothing of the Parma violet, mauve, and pansy-purple shades 

that are seen in the smartest autumn hats. This one, from 

Maria Guy, is of pansy-purple velvet with a turned-up brim 

and bow, on the left side, of satin to match. The combination 
of velvet and satin is extremely good this season 


PURPLES COLOUR THE AUTUMN MILLINERY MODE 




















The new evening wraps wear their chic on their sleeves 

(for evening coats are really coats, not wraps, this 

season) and in the gleam of gold or silver metal. The 

wrap of gold lamé in the sketch above has incrustations 

of cretonne outlined with gold, crystal, and silver beads. 

Sable-brown velvet lines the coat and matches the sable 
collar and cuffs; from Bonwit Teller 


ALL THAT GLITTERS 


THE EVENING MODE SPONSORS 











September 15- 
































(Left) The wrap at the left in the 
sketch takes its inspiration from 
silver stars on a midnight sky and 
uses shimmering bugles in two tones 
of silver against its black chiffon 
velvet, on the sleeves and deep 
border, and soft platinum fox for its 
collar and cuffs. This model also 
follows the straight lines of a coat 


(Left) Brocade for evening wraps 
is one of the firmest decrees of 
Paris and is even more of the mode 
if combined with gold. The wrap 
at the right in the sketch makes 
brilliant use of vari-coloured lamé 
brocade, faced and banded with 
gold, and crinkled lamé sleeves 
fastened with cuffs of mink-dyed 
rock sable. The collar is of sable; 
from Bonwit Teller 





91 














(Right) White has a charming 
way of retaining first place in the 
evening mode of the new season, 
and one of its loveliest versions is 
the tunic gown of white crépe roma 
at the left in the sketch, with the 
shimmer of three kinds of beads 
(crystal, silver, and china) the sole 
trimming of its exquisite simplicity 


(Right) Shades of rose and red pre- 
dominate in the fashion rainbow 
for evening, and the frock second in 
the sketch ,is of flame coloured 
crépe, trailing graceful scarf panels 
from the shoulders and hanging a 
straight panel from the back. Fine 
self-coloured embroidery ornaments 
the front, leaving the back plain 


(Right) Another score for the rose 
shades is the gown at the right in 
the sketch. It is of rose-pink crépe 
and has other fascinations beside 
its colour, for a clever hand has cut 
three deep Vs, at the sides and back, 
and edged them with rose coloured 
beads. Bead embroidery and fringe 
border the graceful skirt; these 
three models and the wrap at the left 
above are from Saks-Fifth Avenue 


























<p 


wane 


"yl 
‘e 
| 
ce 

et 























The three-piece suit of grey kasha 
vella at the left in the sketch has 
the clever idea of making its coat 
a grey squirrel jacket, banding its 
skirt with squirrel, and adopting 
that most popular blouse fabric— 
lamé, this time in a combination 
of silver and red; from Bonwit 
Teller 


The ensemble suit in the centre 
of the sketch above is especially 
interesting and suited to the ma- 
tron. It is of fur fabric, imitating 
broadtail, and has a becoming col- 
lar of skunk. The very smart long 
tunic blouse is of silver moiré; 
from Saks-Fifth Avenue 


Black and grey are fashion shades 
of the season, and their combina- 
tion is especially chic. The en- 
semble suit at the right in the 
sketch has a black kasha coat, 
stopping a few inches above its 
grey kasha frock, and is trimmed 
with skunk; from Saks-Fifth 
Avenue 


(Left) A smart suit may be told 
by its silver lamé tunic this sea- 
son, for the mode has placed these 
blouses first in fashion. This 
black kasha suit, collared with 
skunk, has a particularly new 
blouse with buttons and pockets; 
from Saks-Fifth Avenue 


FUR TAKES NEW WAYS THE TUNIC BLOUSE DESCENDS 


ON WINTER WRAPS , TO GREATER LENGTH 


ee eee 





wi 


a. ae 


PORE RS Gx 





September 15 




















FL LlowK/f- 








The blending of colour in fur and 
fabric is a distinct note of the 
winter mode, and this coat of 
grey juina cloth uses harmonizing 
grey squirrel with a lavish hand. 
The fur is applied tunic fashion, and 
up the back; from Bonwit Teller 


This silk coat believes that no 
space should be wasted, this sea- 
son; where it is not covered with 
embroidery, it is banded with 
fur. Baby fox, in brown and tan, 
is used for the wide border, col- 
lar and cuffs; from Wanamaker 





One of the smart new winter coat 
fabrics is cotelé phoenix, a winter- 
weight bengaline, which is used to 
fashion this distinguished black 
coat with its plain lines and buckle 
fastening. The cuffs and collar 
are of squirrel; from Wanamaker 


93 

















A formal coat for afternoon has 
the ever-charming use of fur on 
velvet, black velvet, in this case, 
with chinchilla rat luxuriously 
bordering the front, lining the 
cuffs, and banding the circular 
fulness in back;from Wanamaker 





‘ 
‘ 
* 


f 

ti 

.s 
ei 
% 
9 





94 


IMPORTANCE 
iv 


LY 


Beauty of tresses is no longer measured 
by the inch; and almost forgotten, like croquet, 
is that once-famous pastime of sitting on the 
hair. But the necessity for beautiful hair, what- 
ever its length, has not changed. It is still the 
most fitting frame that a lovely face can have. 
It becometh a queen far better than her crown. 

Primarily, beautiful hair means healthy hair— 
hair smooth, abundant, and shining. It must be 
free from dandruff, and the scalp must be loose 
and neither too dry nor too oily. Hair that is 
not healthy is suffering to some degree from the 
lack of three things, those same three things so 
vital to the beautiful skin—cleanliness, nourish- 
ment, and exercise. If these are all properly 
present, the hair can not help being beautiful. 


UCH water has rolled under the bridge 
M since the Seven Sutherland Sisters. 


THE SHAMPOO 


At the foundation of the first requisite, clean- 
liness, is the shampoo. However, for the best 
results, the proper treatment the night before the 
shampoo is very important. The hair then 
should be given proper exercise and nourishment 
in order to be stimulated into making the most 
of the shampoo. The head should be rubbed all 
over with hot oil. A rotary motion with the tips 
of the fingers is used in applying it. The thumb 
is used to steady the hand on the head, so that 
the scalp moves with the fingers instead of being 
just a passive agent to massage. A loose scalp 
is essential to circulation, and circulation is the 
foundation on which the life of the hair depends. 

Of great importance is manipulation up the 
back of the head, as this is the seat of the nerves 
of the head. The amount of oil rubbed into the 
scalp varies according to its condition. Both the 
oily and the dry scalp require more hot oil than 
the normal one, because the oil nourishes the 
roots so that these faulty conditions are corrected. 
Thin hair and a sensitive scalp should not be too 
vigorously treated, and, though brushing is 
advocated after this treatment, thin, fine hair 
should be brushed very sparingly. Only care over 
a period of time will give such hair strength. 

The average hair should be brushed system- 
atically the night before the shampoo. The 
brush should have bristles of medium stiffness 
placed not too closely together. An excellent 
brush of the best Australian bristles is imported 
from England by a good New York hair special- 
ist. Another prominent specialist recommends 
a long, narrow brush with irregular bristles 
ranging from one and a half to one half inches 
long, which will penetrate the thickest hair. 
The brush with fairly short bristles set rather 
far apart in flexible rubber also has much to 
recommend it. The greater part of the strokes 
should reach the scalp. To achieve this, the 
hair should be parted and brushed in sections, 
using both a downward and an upward and 
outward movement. The hair is thus freed from 
dust and the scalp loosened. 






} 
| 





Many women have found that no matter how 
frequently the hair is washed, it becomes exces- 
sively oily immediately afterwards. This is 
because the glands have become relaxed and 
overflow, sending the oil down the outside of 
the hair, where it can not nourish it, instead of 
through it. With dry hair, the glands are not 
relaxed enough. Neither condition can be rem- 
edied by frequent shampoos. A specialist who 
has devoted years to care of the scalp prescribes, 
for oily hair, a lotion with slightly astringent 
qualities which gradually regulates the glands 
until the oil flow becomes normal. It also cleanses 
the hair, thereby avoiding the relaxing effects of 
frequent washing. 

Her tonic for dry hair not only provides 
nourishment for, but stimulates a scalp lacking 
natural oils. It is absorbed in the scalp quickly, 
leaving. the hair itself dry. She strongly advises 
against washing the hair oftener than once a 
month. Tonics, brushing, and nightly massage 
will keep the scalp healthy and the hair clean, 
All tonics contain a very small percentage of 
alcohol. This is better than alcohol cleaning 
lotions, which are likely to destroy the hair, and 
powders which clog the pores, since these are 
difficult to brucli out thoroughly. 

A third tonic, compounded to strengthen, 
cleanse, and stimulate the scalp, is very good 
after illness of any kind. It is also good for 
people who use their brains a great deal or are 
under nervous strain, causing the blood to rush 
away from the scalp surface. Falling hair 





-———— tiie 


Note—This is the ninth of a series 

of articles on beauty to appear in 

consecutive issues of Vogue. The 

next article, a discussion of how to 

dress the hair, will appear in 
October 1 Vogue 








VOGUE 


bEING 
DEAUTIFUL 


naturally results. The tonic is actually a hair 
grower and stimulates the colour cells, retarding 
grey hair. A more detailed discussion of the 
work of this specialist in restoring the scalp to 
a healthy condition will be found on page 106. 

The shampoo should be given with hot water 
and plenty of soap—castile or any other mild, 
pure soap. Only when soap is used generously 
is the hair easy to rinse. This rinsing, after the 
scalp has been loosened and stimulated, much 
as it was the night before, should be with hot 
water. Then the entire process is repeated, as 
the second washing is what brings beauty to the 
hair. The last rinsing, in cool water, should 
leave the hair quite harsh to the touch. If it 
feels slippery, it has not been properly cleansed. 
Rinsing in very cold water is not advised by 
specialists, as they say it stiffens the hair and 
tends to straighten wavy locks. 

In addition to this simple shampoo, there is a 
special tar shampoo that is strengthening and 
beneficial. Some types of hair respond to it 
more easily than to the more ordinary soap 
shampoo. Also, for an excessively dry scalp and 
hair, it will be found effective. Such a shampoo 
may be had in soap forms for those who prefer 
that td the liquid. 

Strange though it may seem, it is possible to 
shampoo the hair without rinsing. This is obvi- 
ously a boon when travelling, or if the water is 
extremely alkaline, or if one has not access to a 
hairdresser and is not experienced enough to 
rinse the hair thoroughly after the usual shampoo. 
But the non-rinsing process can not be done with 
soapsuds. A special preparation should be used, 
now conveniently obtainable in liquid form. 
When diluted with warm water and rubbed into 
the scalp, this lathers freely and loosens all dirt 
and accumulations. When the process has been 
repeated until the foam is perfectly white, the 
hair is clean. Then, the foam is simply wiped 
off, the volatile action of the preparation taking 
the place of rinsing. The hair dries quickly and 
is beautifully light and fluffy. 


DRY, DRY AGAIN 


After tne water has been wiped from the ends 
of the hair, the scalp should be dried with gentle 
massage to rouse the circulation, for, when the 
surface of the head is warm and glowing, the 
drying process is. faster and more healthful. A 
hand drier can be used if desired. Sunlight is 
beneficial, though the direct glare of a hot sun 
is to be avoided. Again, in the drying process, 
one can not too often stress the fact that delicate 
ond fine hair which is thin or falling out must 
be treated very gently and patiently. The brush- 
ing, which should follow the shampoo when the 
hair is perfectly dry and which brings out the 
natural gloss of the hair, may be too severe 
for fragile hair and consequently do more harm 
than good. The hair should never be brushed 
while it is wet. 

(Continued on page 130) 





September 15 95 


(Right) Although — short 

cuts are in order for the 

coiffure, beautiful hair still 

remains the perfect frame 
for a lovely face 


(Lejt) Beauty draws us by 

a single hair only if it has 

the shining smoothness and 

the silky abundance of per- 
fect health 











What the daily dozen is to the 
muscles of the body, nightly 
brushing is to the muscles of the 
hair, whether it be long or short 


Oily to bed should be the slogan 
the night before washing the hair, 
for treatment with hot oil greatly 
augments the value of the shampoo 


Warm light and a gentle massage 

to arouse the circulation are most 

beneficial for drying the hair after 
the shampoo 


(Left) In every woman’s 

house is her castile, which 

furnishes rich lather for 
the shampoo 








Ae WCPO URN — 
ee i ect DS See 


fiate 


ae ce 





Rec: ae 


r) 


pelts aes 


¢-. reve 
























(Above, left) The black velvet 
gown has a triumphant trio of 
fashion points—the tunic, with its 
clever godets of ermine; the im- 
portant black and white combina- 
tion; and the straight, slender 
silhouette, held to the figure by 
fine tucks at the low waist-line 









(Above, right) The fur-edged 
tunic has its own place in the 
mode this season and is shown 
to loveliest advantage in this 
frock of hyacinth blue georgette 
crépe with its harmonizing band 
of chinchilla fur and a long scarf 
to be twisted about the throat 


(Left) It is a wise tunic that selects gold 

as its fabric, for metal laces head the new 

evening mode. This tunic, with its godets 

and metal lace girdle, is made over a slip 
of black crépe satin 


MODELS FROM BERGDORF GOODMAN 


THE TUNIC CASTS 


OVER EVERY PHASE 


OF 





THE AUTUMN MODE 


ITS SHADOW 





September 15 




















MODELS FROM 
GEORGE BERNARD 


(Above, left) The ladies of the 
enthusiastic greeting in the 
sketch above must be twin sis- 
ters, for they wear the same 
ensemble suit. The blouse is 
of vari-coloured printed velvet, 
edged with skunk 


(Above, right) The coat of the 
ensemble suit is of black vel- 
vet, banded with skunk, and it 
ends to show about five inches 
of the bright colour of the 
tunic blouse. Its smart but- 
tons are of cut steel 


(Left) A black kasha frock 

pretends to be a suit with its 

false jacket front and its 

blouse effect of metal brocade. 

The seal collar and narrow 

seal cuffs are faced with 
metal brocade 


(Right) Gay striped taffeta, 

with a pleated flounce at the 

bottom, fashions the underslip 

for the black rep dress which 

has narrow bands of mole and 

a belt that ties unexpectedly 
at the front 




















i Pye 


5 
ary 


+= Daal “tae et nad tare 





































(Left) Flat crépe 
in dull grey or a 
dark colour illus- 
trates that prim 
saying, “neat but 
not gaudy,” for 
this smartly dressed 
business woman at 


her desk 














(Left) The secretary 
of twenty years ago, 
though more respect- 
able looking than the 
short-sleeved flapper, 
would strike her em- 
ployer dumb with 
awe to-day 


A GUIDE 


BUSINESS 


EAR VOGUE: 
It would be interesting if, among your 


articles upon chic, you would include one 


upon the appropriate dressing of the business 


woman. As there are more and more women 
in business every minute, whose ages are as 
varied as their occupations, this will be a diffi- 
cult task. Yet I hope that some general phil- 
osophy will occur to you upon the subject of their 
clothing, and that you will give it voice. 
Your sincere admirer 
M. de R. W. 


Any philosophy which deals with the dress of 
women whose ages and occupations differ, and 
whose tastes and ideas of what is fitting differ 
even more, must be general and is certainly dif- 
ficult to formulate. Vogue has touched upon 
the subject in articles and editorials, but will 
gladly take it up again if necessary. 



















TO CHIC 2eR tat 


WOMAN 


The fagon of office dressing is generally bad. 
It need not be, but it is. Perhaps the limited 
time of most workers is some excuse. They buy 
hastily the ordinary kinds of gowns shown in 
the shops, and these are neither designed nor 
intended for shop or office wear. Generally 
speaking, the models displayed are arranged for 
a life of leisure, of sport, of entertainment, in 
fact, for a life at home. This is not true of all 
of them, of course, but of a great many. Lan- 
vin, for instance, and all the derivatives of her 
period dresses, must be backgrounded by luxury. 
Premet, on the contrary, with her gargonne crea- 
tions, straight, simple, belted, collared, and cuffed 
little frocks, with demure long sleeves and con- 
venient pockets, might have invented them for 
smart office environment, as well as every other 
environment, for they have an all-but-universal 
suitability, as well as their own good looks. 
Unsuitable working garments do, however, seem 

















i i, Bice 


— 





September 15° 


to prevail. They are numerous, they are 
often pretty, they are apt to be cheap. 
It is much easier to buy one of them, than 
to search for, alter, combine, or have made, 
dresses in better, more individual taste. 
If individual taste were strong, probably 
the more appropriate clothes would be 
discovered or somehow created. ° They 
certainly exist. But the temptation to 
see herself looking like a lady at a garden- 
party, instead of at a counter or a type- 
writing table, is stronger in the ordinary 
girl’s heart, and the ordinary girl does not 
resist it to any noticeable extent. 


CLOTHES THAT ARE APPROPRIATE 


We must stoutly protest, even in defi- 
ance of her feelings, that the sport, garden- 
party, or reception dress is out of place in 
shop or office. Short sleeves do not look 
well for such wear, ever. Elbow-length is 
permissible, though long sleeves are better, 
but the really short sleeve is bad form in 
any office or shop—some people think in 
town at all for daytime wear—, and the 
sleeveless street gown is unspeakably vul- 
gar. Very short, tight, bright dresses are 
unsuitable; so are fringes that catch and 
floating tags of trimming. The sort of 
occupation pursued by the worker makes 
a difference, and the official who has to 
meet outside people in outside places may 
be more elaborately attired than the writer 
at her desk, though never, of course, con- 
spicuously. Surroundings, too, make a dif- 
ference. A woman decorator in a place 
of business furnished like a charming 
room might be a little less simple than a 
woman lawyer in a law office. Indeed, 
any woman who is working downtown 
among men may be said to be best dressed 
when dressed in the very plainest of smart 
ways. Any man will confirm this. 

The trouble with the young office 
women of the present age, especially the 
workaday juniors, is that they will adorn 
themselves with an eye on the social side 



































(Left) This model would be just 


Fortunately, sombre tones, like 
black, dark blue, or brown, are 
at present the most chic. The 
coat might be of wool velours, the 
hat of felt, the stockings of heavy 
silk, to defy cold weather 


(Right) Here is a type of coat to 


99 


of life, and for the sake of mid-day or 
evening engagements are very apt to be 
ill turned out for their employment. We 
grant that to be ideally clothed for both 
is not easy, yet it is easier to-day than ever 
it was. The old-fashioned, stiff-collared 
and starched “shirtwaist,’ the severely 
plain serge skirt, once worn by almost 
every female in the world of affairs, were 
impossible for evening elegance. But the 
current one-piece frock, shaped in various 
collarless ways at the neck and with count- 
less sorts of trimmings and accessories to 
give it distinction, meets almost all re- 
quirements of modern informal dining 
and theatre going. The plainest black 
crépe de Chine gown with the addition of 
a fresh scarf, gloves, flower at the waist, 
and hat perhaps left off entirely, will turn 
the well-dressed worker into a pleasure- 
seeker quite well enough apparelled for 
ordinary occasions. Black is always in 
good taste, day or night, in thick or thin 
fabrics, and, if made after simple, dis- 
tinguished models, lasts its owner a long 
time and is always a good standby. 


THE CHIC OF SIMPLICITY 


Too much stress can not be laid on the 
vogue for simplicity in dress, and for 
smartness in extras. Fashion marks itself 
by its severity of outline. Of course, as to 
colour, people must please themselves. 
There are dark blues and brown for winter, 
and, in summer, black and white, grey, and 
all the fawn, coffee, biscuit, and beige 
shades, which are excellent. In very hot 
weather, brighter colours in plain and 
flowered materials, if properly made, may 
not be out of place. Black, however, serves 
the double purpose of toil and amusement 
more adequately, on the whole, than any- 
thing else, because it challenges less at- 
tention if it is a little too good for daylight 
wear or a little too plain to be ideal for 
the electric hours. 

(Continued on page 134) 





as good in a quiet plaid as in this 

plain dark wool. It is happily 

destitute of all tags and fringes 
to catch and tear 


be worn over the crépe de Chine 

dress, always so serviceable for 

work and play. The new corded 
wool is good for this 


Editor’s Note—Vogue has received so many 
letters from its readers asking advice on how 
to overcome imperfections or to make them 
inconspicuous that it has decided to publish 
some of the problems, with suggestions on how 
to treat various difficulties for different types. 








If your type is not described, write to Vogue 














100 




















For walks when winds are sharp, for 
skating and sports, as well as for general 
daytime wear, a smart jacket of nutria 
trimmed with clipped leopard cat is 
very chic. This model may also be 
had in Hudson seal with leopard cat, 
American broadtail with nutria, and 
leopard cat with nutria; $150.50 











Bae acta eee eee ee 








Sr sere 


i a I sa ee acs lly BE 8 ge 











Fern ermaanes sa agi 





- 
SAAS AAA AN WAAQQW'7* LE 





This soft coat of silver muskrat is 
vastly becoming, with its deep collar 
and cuffs of dyed squirrel; it shows 
how cleverly the furriers, this season, 
are working skins, and it is excellent 
value ; $175.50. The square-crowned felt 
hat is a smart model of the season; 
grey, black, green, or brown; $15.50 


(Left) The rich, warm célour of a 

fox scarf is extremely flattering to the 

wearer and is favoured by a mode that 

emphasizes red-browns. This one is 

red fox dyed a dark amber shade and 

is a skin of an exceptionally fine 
quality ; $35 


— 


—— 


a IS ate GS 





September 15 


101 








_SEAN OLIVER 

















For football games and motoring, 
nothing can equal the utility of the 
popular and comfortable racoon coat. 
This mocel is 42 inches in length and 


SS 
SSS 


A coat that is formal enough for teas 


has a shawl or shirred collar; $225.50. 
The square-crowned felt hat that is so 
very smart at present may be had in 


WAN 


and matinées, yet not too formal for 
street wear, is of Hudson seal with col- 
lar and puffed cuffs of Japanese weasel, 


or of dyed squirrel; $245.50. The 
beige, green, black, or brown; $13.25 


hat of black satin and velvet has a be- 
coming tilt of the small brim in front, 
fastened witha rhinestone ornament ; $18 


Note—Readers unable to find these or sim 
ilar models in local shops may purchase 
through Vogue Shopping Service, 19 West 
44th Street, by sending money order, certi- 
fied cheque, or cheque on a New York bank. 
In ordering hats, the head size should be 
mentioned. Hats are not returnable. A 
slight fee to cover the expense of this 
service is included in the prices quoted 


(Left) Clipped leopard cat is one of 
the smart furs of the coming season. 
This three-quarters-length coat has 
skunk collar and cuffs; $195.50. The 
square-crowned felt hat with a feather 
brush on one side displays the essence 
of chic; beige, grey, or green; $17 


ee = nee S 





Harvey White 


oe oho . 


Be Oe 


op) 
















~ 


ee Re =. 


ea ee 








= 









“ 


AT A AS ae Se -nseeeestageesrtaeee tes sree nes 


a Ress ss see 











VOGUE @S« 

















WSS 


7 Y) 

ANAT pansy 
Y 

“Y 


j 


SSsssa 





VOGUE 
DESIGNS 











NN 5 Ny 





Coat No. 7847 


Here is a coat that combines 
great chic and exceptional 
utility. It has set-in sleeves 
darted in back and is made 
without underarm seams from 
one width of 54-inch, double- 
faced material; sizes, 34 to 42 


Coat No. 7846 


(Right) For more formalwear, 
this coat, which may be seven- 
eighths or full length, is very 
smart, Its striking features 
are a cascade jabot and double 
standing collar. The straight 
sleeves are set in; sizes, 34 to40 





for the 


SEAMSTRESS 


Note—Sketches showing back views 
of these models will be found on 


page 110 

























Frock No. 7851 


Drurylaine is used in this tunic 
frock with an unusual arrange- 
ment of inverted pleats set on 
in a pointed outline. The 
separate scarf is embroidered 
in motif No. 605 in a simple 
satin stitch; sizes, 34 to 40 


Frock No. 7850 
(Left) For shopping or office 
wear, this smart one-piece 
frock of chiffonette cloth is 
very practical. Its slash at the 
right for freedom in walking 
and its trimming bands are 
interesting; sizes, 34 to 44 


- 





Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 


Greenwich, Connecticut 


















| 
| 














September 15 


Who are the worlcls 


most famous soup chets? 


Beyond all contradiction 

Through merit and through worth— 
A truth that passes fiction— 

Our soups go round the earth! 



























The public has answered. Year after year the demand 
for Campbell’s Soups has so increased that today the great 
Campbell’s kitchens stand unique, alone. 

Chefs who devote their whole lives to blending fine soups. 
Kitchens no home could hope to possess. Ingredients that 
are literally the best money can buy. | 


So now soup means something so much better that thou- 
sands of people who seldom ate soup before, do not let a 
day go by without enjoying Campbell's! 

Campbell’s Tomato! See if it does not taste as good as 
its reputation! The blend of all that is delicious in the 
tomato, rich butter and tempting seasoning. Wonderful, 
too, when you cream it. 


21 kinds 12 cents a can 


103 













































‘I> 


SS 


: 
- oma 


Seen 
Ikan 


% 


S yr 


©) 


% 2 


Frock No. 7848 
(Right) This little one-piece 
frock derives its chief charm 
from the full-length cascade 
jabot. It has tiny pleats on the 
shoulders that give desirable 
fulness and straight set-in 

sleeves; 34 to 42 


TWO NEGLIGEES THAT ADD CHIC TO 


COMFORT AND TWO MORNING FROCKS 


OF BOTH SMARTNESS AND UTILITY 


Négligée No. 7852 
(Left) There is something 
delightfully chic about this 
tailored négligée of printed 
cinderella crépe with a 
notched collar and straight set- 

in sleeves; 34 to 44 


Négligée No. 7853 
(Right) A becoming cape that 
knots in front takes the place 
of sleeves on this one-piece 
négligée; 34 to 44. The quaint 
cap, included in the pattern, 

adds great charm 


Note—Sketches show- 
ing back views of 
these models will be 
found on page 110 

















Frock No. 7849 
(Left) This smart two-piece 
frock consists of an overblouse 
slashed at the sides to simulate 
a tight-fitting belt and a 
wrapped skirt with double in- 
verted pleats placed at the side- 

front; 34 to 40 





Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 
Greenwich, Connecticut 

















UE September 15 





oe) 
| 
| 


ae 



























































ma wr oe A OC 


One quality which women deeply admire in the Cadillac is its 
unrivalled capacity for remaining young. QO] By that we mean 
the astonishing Cadillac ability to remain mechanically fit, 
| smooth and quiet in operation, and consistently handsome 
and fashionable long after other cars must be replaced. Q| In- 
cidentally, it is this enduring excellence which stamps the new 
V-63 as the truly economical car and makes it the wise 
investment for people of moderate as well as unlimited means. 

















Exprimant la personnalité qu'il adore. 


Expressing the personality he adores 


fe Ncvimes que Mei 


(love only me) 


Le tatac tind 
Mul de Hoel 


| (Chutmas Eve) 
| by the creators of 


Wectse 1foU 


(black narccssus) 


Cl 


10 ftue de ha Grix 








= i 


a 


CARON Corp. 


389 Fifth Avenue New York 














Linens 


By simple twists of the wrist and the use of this new 


reducer, chin, arms, and ankles may be restored to slim 
lines; a full description is given on page 110; $5.25 


ON HER DRESSING-TABLE 


and resorts are practically de- 

serted, the smart world returns 
to town, bodies lithe and alert from 
exercise, skins tanned, hair—that is 
the problem! For, while the muscles 
of the body are being developed in the 
sunlight outdoors, the hair is likely 


G sa se is over, the beaches 


to suffer sadly. It may be bleached. 


and dried out by sun and winds, oily 
from too much washing after salt- 
water bathing, or tired, as any scalp 
will become after a protracted period 
of neglect. In any case, it should be 
diagnosed by a specialist and treated, 
just as a skin roughened by sunburn 
and marred by freckles must also be 
treated. And, now that the mode is 
to wear the hair without ornament, 
for evening as well as for daytime, the 
preservation of its natural beauty is 
more important than ever. 


SO-CALLED DANDRUIF 


Dandruff is the most misunderstood 
of any ill to which hair is heir. It is 
really a germ, and, fortunately, very 
rare. But the condition that appears 
to be dandruff is most often not a 
disease, but has its foundation in a 
slight abnormality. A dry, under- 
nourished scalp naturally scales off, 
but requires very little more treatment 
than chapped hands. A very oily scalp 
naturally attracts dust, which forms a 
superficial crust. Both conditions are 
merely symptoms of a scalp which is 
not functioning normally. 

A prominent specialist, who has 
devoted years to the care of the scalp, 
finds that most such troubles have 
their basis in a dry, oily, or tired scalp. 
For each, she has a tonic which is 
not only an aid in remedying the con- 
dition, but also acts as a cleanser and 
hair grower. Once the scalp is taken 
care of, dandruff and falling or fad- 
ing hair will take care of themselves. 
In her salon, the tonic selected is 


first rubbed into the scalp with absor- 
bent cotton; then, expert fingers begin 
a manipulation of the scalp to stimu- 
late circulation, starting at the base 
of the neck and working upward 
When the scalp is warm and tingling, 
the hair is brushed thoroughly with en 
upward and outward motion. The 
daily care at home which supplements 
the weekly visit to this establishment 
is described in detail in the article 
beginning on page 94 and will restore 
the hair to its healthy condition in a 
short time. The tonic for oily hair and 
that for dry hair may be had at $2.25 
a bottle. This specialist believes that the 
hair should be washed not oftener than 
once a month. In the intervals be- 
tween shampoos, the hair and scalp 
naturally need cleansing. Daily brush- 
ing is important, but not sufficient in 
itself without the supplementary use 
of a cleanser. The sensible and con- 
venient method js to use a liquid that 
will cleanse, stimulate, and nourish in 
one operation. Each of the tonics 
made by this specialist fills these re- 
quirements. This is far better than 
the use of alcohol, which is destructive 
to the hair, or to powders that clog 
the pores if not well brushed out. 


POMADES FOR THE SCALP 


If the hair is not strong and healthy, 
a scalp pomade is advised in conjunc- 
tion with the tonic. There is a neutral, 
odourless pomade for light hair, and 
a dark one with the scent of pines for 
brunettes. Each is priced at $1.50. 
These are not greasy salves, but easily 
absorbed preparations that may be 
applied to the scalp at night and not 
be perceptible in the morning. If the 
hair is falling or seems to be lifeless 
and dull, these pomades are especially 
recommended. They also hasten the 
disappearance of the annoying scales 
or particles of dust that give the 

(Continued on page 110) 





A delightfully thin double com- 


pact in a silver-finished tooled 
case is equipped with powder, 





rouge, puffs, and mirror; $2.75 





tim 


ove 
ref 
ties 





wmf ™ WM Ce er ODS oO She 


September 15 


107 


ight things these two creams 
can do for your skin 


THEY CAN 


Correct otliness 

Clear clogged pores 
Remove rough patches 
Soften a dry skin 
Prevent fine lines 

Give a soft clear finish 
Hold the powder 


Protect against weather 


EXEES. LL of these miserable trou- 
( bles which beset the skin 
( A may be directly due to two 
( very common sins of omis- 

sion—lack of thorough 
cleansing and neglect of the proper 
finish. 

If your skin is very oily or the pores 
are clogged (these two usually go to- 
gether), a deep, purifying cleansing will 
do wonders for you. 

Then, when the skin begins to 
breathe again, you will find that normal 
circulation will naturally curb the 
overactive oil glands. 


Pond’s Cold Cream is the perfect 
preparation for this kind of cleansing. 
Pure, light, and soft, it spreads easily 
on the face and melts down into the 
skin, carrying away all impurities and 
leaving it immaculate. 

Every night, with the finger-tips or 
a piece of moistened cotton, apply 
Pond’s Cold Cream liberally. Leave it 
on a minute. Then remove it with a soft cloth. 
Dirt and excess oil, the powder and rouge used 
during the day, are taken off your skin and out 
of its pores. Smooth the cream on a second 
time and wipe it off once more. Now finish with 
a dash of cold water or a piece of ice rubbed 
over your face. Your skin looks so clean — so 
refreshed, and feels so re/ieved of all the impuri- 
ties that have been choking it. 


You need not have fine lines and 
wrinkles in your face 


A very dry skin has a tendency to form fine 
lines and roughnesses. For this type of skin 
Pond’s Cold Cream should be used for the 
morning as well as the evening cleansing, and 
a little left on for the night, especially where 


caring for the skin. 


Vanishing Cream. 





Exquisite women everywhere follow this method of 
Every night a rejuvenating 
cleansing with Pond’s Cold Cream. Always before 
powdering, as a delicate protective finish, Pond’s 
They keep the skin fresh, soft, 


and exquisitely protected from the weather. 





EVERY SKIN NEEDS POND’S TWO 
CREAMS—THEY CLEANSE AND 
SOFTEN—FINISH AND PROTECT 


wrinkles first appear — around the 
nose, the eyes, the corners of the mouth. 


Every skin can be improved by the pro- 
tecting finish one uses. Just before powder- 
ing, smooth on Pond’s Vanishing Cream, 
just enough for the skin to absorb. It gives 
your face a clear, bright beauty, a smooth, 
fine texture, a fresh, glowing tone. It 
protects your complexion, too, from the 
drying, reddening effects of wind, sun and 
cold. And now with what a difference your 
powder goes on — so smoothly, so evenly, 
and stays three times as long as ever before. 


The way to a faultless skin! 


Every night, after exposure—in the 
morning, too, for very dry skins — the 
Pond’s cleansing. Then before powdering, 
as a delicate finish and a safe and sure 
protection, Pond’s Vanishing Cream. 

Begin this simple and delightful method 
yourself today and see how charmingly 
your skin responds. And you'll find it 
stays youthful and fresh for years on end! 
Pond’s Extract Company. 


x 


MRS. CORDELIA BIDDLE DUKE 
MRS. O. H. P. BELMONT 

MRS. MARSHALL FIELD, Sr. 
MRS. JULIA HOYT 

MRS. GLORIA GOULD BISHOP 
MRS, CONDE NAST 

THE VICOMTESSE DE FRISE 


THE PRINCESSE MATCHABELLI 
THE DUCHESSE DE RICHELIEU 


are among the women of distinguished tastc 
and high position who have expressed their 
approval of the Pond’s method of caring for 
the skin, and of Pond’s Two Creams. 


MAIL THIS COUPON WITH 1oc TODAY 








‘Tue Ponp’s Extract Company, Dept. J 
137 Hudson Street, New York 


Ten cents (10c) is enclosed for your special introduc- 
tory tubes of the two creams every normal skin needs. 

















> “> 





CP OR CREED CF Cn GHED CD CP 2 


ges aes 
" - ——— 
Rant Rina eververecascnoorerennet or 











O C 


VOGUE 


E T Y 














Births 





NEW YORK 

Léon.—On July 10, to Mr. and Mrs. Maur- 
ice Léon, a son. 

Wagstaff.—On July 4, to Mr. and Mrs. 
Samuel J. Wagstaff, a daughter. 
CHICAGO 

Street.—On June 20, to Mr. and Mrs. 
Edward P. Street, a son. 
PHILADELPHIA 

Conger.—On July 8, to Mr. and Mrs, 
John de Peyster Conger, a daughter. 

Okie.—On July 9, to Mr. and Mrs. Francis 
Brognard Okie, a daughter. 

White.—On June 25, to Mr. and Mrs. 
George R. White, a son. 
SAN FRANCISCO 

McGaw.—On June 28, to Mr. and Mrs. 
Baldwin McGaw, a son. 

Smith.—In July, to Mr. and Mrs. Warren 
Smith, a son and a daughter, twins. 








Deaths 





NEW YORK 

Adams.—On June 30, William Crittenden 
Adams, husband of Grace F. James Adams. 

Corning.—On July 2, at Chatelguyon, 
France, Christopher R. Corning. 

Stevens.—On July 1, Clara Sherwood 
Stevens, wife of Joseph Sampson Stevens. 
BOSTON 

Lovett.—On July 2, in Liverpool, England, 
Dr. Robert Williamson Lovett, husband of 
Elizabeth M. Storey Lovett. 

PHILADELPHIA 

Spencer.—On July 16, in Newport, John 
Thompson Spencer, husband of Rebecca B. 
W. Wallace Spencer. 

SAN FRANCISCO 

Grant.—On July 1, in New York, Lillian 
Burns Grant, wife of Jesse R. Wilkins Grant. 
WASHINGTON 

Adee.—On July 4, Alvey A. Adee, Second 
Assistant Secretary of State. 

Coolidge.—On July 7, Calvin Coolidge, 
junior, son of President and Mrs. Calvin 
Coolidge. 

Kelton.—On June 26, Colonel Robert H. 
C. Kelton, husband of Edith Russell Wills 
Kelton. 








Engagements 
NEW york Bees 

Astor-Obolensky.—Miss Alice Astor, 
daughter of Lady Kibblesdale, to Prince Serge 
Platonovitch Obolensky Neledinsky Meletsky, 
of Russia. 

Choate-Harding.—Miss Marion Choate, 
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph H. Choate, 
to Mr. Charles B. Harding, son of Mr. and 
Mrs. J. Horace Harding. 

Dixon-Du Bois.—Miss M. Louise Dixon, 
daughter of Mrs. Courtlandt P. Dixon, to Mr. 
Arthur M. Du Bois, son of the late Dr. and 
Mrs. Robert Ogden Du Bois. 

Hoyt-Lindsay.—Miss Elizabeth S. Hoyt, 
daughter of the late Colgate Hoyt, to the 
Honorable Ronald Charles Lindsay, son of the 
late Earl of Crawford and Balcarres. 

Lyon-Delafield.—Miss Mary Pierce Lyon, 
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Burr Lyon, 
to Mr. Maturin L. Delafield, second, son of 
Mr. and Mrs. Edward C. Delafield. 

Rice-Fiske.—Miss Helen L. Rice, daugh- 
ter of Mrs. William Lowe Rice, to Mr. Haley 
Fiske, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Haley 
Fiske. 

Wendell-Galloway.—Miss Philippa Wen- 
dell, daughter of Mrs. Jacob Wendell, to 
Randolph Algernon Ronald Stewart, Earl of 
Galloway. 

, Williams-Talmadge.—Miss Sally W. 
Lg daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Richard 

. Williams, junior, to Mr. Prentice Talmadge, 

son of Mrs. Edward T. H. Talmadge. 


BOSTON 

Cabot-Walker.—Miss Sylvia Cabot, 
daughter of Mr. Philip Cabot, to Dr. Arthur 
M. Walker, son of Mr. and Mrs. James 
Ransom Walker, of Chicago. 

Harding-Moffat.—Miss Marion Harding, 
daughter of Mrs. Louis B. Harding, to Mr. 
Fraser Muir Moffat, junior, son of Mr. and 
Mrs. Fraser Muir Moffat, of Short Hills, New 
Jersey. ; 
CLEVELAND 

McLauchlan-Sterrett.—Miss Eloise Mc- 
Lauchlan, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Jay C. 
McLauchlan, to Mr. Walter E. Sterrett, son of 
Mr.and Mrs. Joseph E. Sterrett, of New York. 


PHILADELPHIA 

Fritz-Tenbroeck.—Miss Henrietta Mac 
Veigh Fritz, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph 
L. Fritz, to Mr. Philip Delano Tenbroeck, 
son of Mr. and Mrs. Philip Tenbroeck. 


Engagements—Continued 





PROVIDENCE 
Wallace-Vogels.— Miss Irene A. Wallac 
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Frederic A. Wallace 
to Mr. David S. Vogels, son of Mrs. Edward 
Page Vogels, of Philadelphia. 
SAN FRANCISCO 
Perkins-Stever.—Miss Helen Perkins, 
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William F. Perkins, 
to Mr. Carl Stever, son of Mrs. Mathilde 
Stever. 
WASHINGTON 
Canby-Le Roy.—Miss Irene F. Canby, 
daughter of Colonel and Mrs. James Canby, 
id Mr. E. Rene Le Roy, of San Francisco and 
aris. 








Weddings 





NEW YORK 

Bernhard-Lehman.—On July 2, Mr. 
Richard Bernhard, son of Mr. and Mrs. A. 
Bernhard, and Miss Dorothy Lehman, 
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Lehman, 

Burden-White.—On July 28, Mr. W. 
Douglas Burden, son of Mr. and Mrs. James 
A. Burden, and Miss Katherine White, 
daughter of Mr. Ernest Ingersoll White. 

Little-Wilson.—In July, Colonel Louis 
McCarty Little and Mrs. Elsie Cobb Wilson. 

Loeser-Ralli.—On July 10, Mr. Thomas 
Smith Loeser and Miss Elaine P. Ralli, 
daughter of Mrs. Pandia C. Ralli. 

Fowler-Williams.—On August 9, Mr. 
Charles W. Fowler and Miss Cornelia Wil- 
liams, daughter of Dr. and Mrs. Edward N. 
Williams, junior, of Woodstock, Vermont. 
BOSTON 

Hamilton-Bemis.—On June 28, Mr 
Edward Pierce Hamilton and Miss Leonora 
Bemis. 

Parsons-Hopkins.—On June 21, Mr. 
Ernst M. Parsons, son of Mrs. Marcia E. 
Parsons, and Miss Louise Hopkins. 

Turner-Codman.—On July 14, Mr. 
Oliver Turner, son of Mrs. William D. Turner, 
and Mrs. Lydia E. Codman. 

CHICAGO 

Adams-Mordock.—On June 28, Mr. 
James Douglass Adams, son of Mr. and Mrs. 
Douglass Adams, and Miss Katharine Mor- 
dock, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles T. 
Mordock. 

Beckman-Fitzgerald.—On June 16, Mr. 
Edgar W. Beckman and Miss Laura M. 
Fitzgerald, daughter of Mr. John E. Fitz- 
gerald. 

Field-Field.—On July 10, Mr. Stanley 
Field and Mrs. Sara B. Field. 

CINCINNATI 

Peckham-Best.—On June 25, Mr. Henry 
Arnold Peckham, son of Mrs. Henry A. Peck- 
ham, of Washington, and Miss Eleanor Camp- 
bell Best, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Rawlins 
D. Best. 

CLEVELAND 

Rudd-Wagar.—On May 6, Mr. Frank 
Henry Rudd, son of the late William Cullen 
Rudd, and Miss Marie L. G. Wagar, daughter 
of Mrs. Charles Price Wagar. 

PHILADELPHIA 

Laird-Cassatt.—On June 26, Dr. Joseph 
Packard Laird, of Newcastle, Delaware, and 
Mrs. Edward Buchanan Cassatt. 

Morton-Stevens.—On June 28, Mr. 
Kenneth H. Morton, son of Dr. and Mrs. 
Samuel W. Morton, and Mrs. Alice Clark 
Stevens, daughter of Mrs. Clara Weems Clark. 

Souder-Ogden.—On June 28, Mr. S 
Ashton Souder, junior, and Miss Katharine 
Zimmermann Ogden, daughter of Mr. and 
Mrs. George Dickie Ogden. 

LOS ANGELES 

Williamson-Chandler.—On June 20, 
Mr. Frederick Williamson, son of Mr. and 
Mrs. A. W. Williamson, and Miss Ruth 
Chandler, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Harry 
Chandler. 

PORTLAND, OREGON 

Malarky-Boschke.—In June, Mr. Her- 
bert Malarky and Miss Elizabeth Boschke, 
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George \V. Bosclike. 
ST. LOUIS 

Parker-de Assern.—On June 28, in New 
York, Mr. King L. Parker, son of Mr. and 
Mrs. Herbert Lawrence Parker, and Miss 
Marie Josephine de Assern, daughter of Baron 
and Baroness Joseph de Assern. 

SAN FRANCISCO 

Elkins-Tevis.—On June 24, Mr. Felton 
Elkins, son of Mr. William L. Elkins, o 
Philadelphia, and Mrs. Lansing Kellogg 
Tevis. 

Hardin-Smith.—On July 11, Mr. Joho 
Stuart Hardin, of Baltimore, and Miss Betty 
Smith, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry C. 
Smith, at Merion, Pennsylvania. 
WASHINGTON 

Shaw-Hagner.—On June 24, Mr. Joh 
Francis Shaw and Miss Carolyn Hagnel, 
daughter of Commander and Mrs, I. Thomas 
Hagner. 














LCC 
Ce 
ard 


ns, 
ins, 
Ide 


Mr 
ora 


Mr. 
Irs, 
lor- 


Mr. 
M. 
itz- 


ley 


nry 
ck- 
mp- 
lins 


unk 
len 
iter 


ph 
and 


Mr. 
Irs. 
ark 
ark. 


rine 
and 


26, 
and 
uth 
irry 


ler- 
ike, 
ike. 


New 
and 
Liss 
iron 


lton 


logs 


ohn 
etty 
My id 


ohn 
ner, 
mas 




















September 15 109 
Se Me Me Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Me Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Slo Mo Mo Mo Mo Slo Mo Slo Slo Mo So So Slo Mo Slo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mo Mt bo 
a! p 
i, SJ 
RY Ye 
5 

\\ 

‘ 

A 

4 

4 

al 

A 

% 

RY . 





2 HER trousseau is ready—pretty frocks—lovely, 
% . dainty things befitting the great event. And 
Os then she turns to mother, seeking advice on the prac- 
s tical, necessary items for housekeeping. Future 
3! happiness is in her home; no one knows this better 
s than mother. 

s The linen chest must be filled—how many sheets, 
si how many pillow-cases will I need, she asks. And 
, indeed mother’s advice is valuable. For experience 
“4 has proved the need of an ample supply which will 
Ds be lasting as well as beautiful; and mother, being 
s above all a thrifty housekeeper, guides her. 

‘ Wamsutta Percale, mother says, is taking the place 
N 

4 [gees — 





How many sheets will I need? 


of fine linen. Its closely woven texture means 
unusual strength, great beauty and long years of 
constant service. As this wonderful fabric is washed 
it becomes even fresher and whiter, exquisite to 
touch, so inviting to deep refreshing sleep. 


But the cost? A dozen Wamsutta Percale Sheets 
and Pillow-Cases, lovelier even than fine linen, cost 
very much less—and only a trifle more than ordinary 
cotton. Because of their durability, they are a real 
economy. Here, indeed, is a starting supply which 
can be added to as the household grows. 


WAMSUTTA MILLS, New Bedford, Mass., Founded 1846 
RIDLEY WATTS & CO., 44 Leonard St., N. Y., Selling Agents 





Ry The weakest point of an Wamsutta hemstitching 
%j ordinary sheet is where the stops at the Tape Selvedge. 
Ry hemstitching ends. It tears Thus the Tape Selvedge re- 
% quickly because it is not re- inforces and prevents tearing 
s inforce at che vital point. 

Ki 

i 

s Ni Winamansa Pesca 

% Tape Selvedge 

a 

“1 NOTE TO YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS 

AS ° . . 

% Let the famous Millard ec test direct _ known brands of sheets, running each through 

s buying of sheets and pillow-cases. Prof. E.B. asteam laundry 160 times, the equivalent of 

, Millard, of the Massachusetts Institute of six years’ home use. At the end of the test, 

a Technology, scientifically tested 24 well. | Wamsutta Percale was stronger than any other. 








| WAMSUTTA PERCALE [| 





i 7]\ Se 7\ 








s 











ee er a a a ee 2 ev eee 





; 

i] 
: : 
‘ Sheets and Pillow Cases «~~ ©The Finest of Cottons : 
S| | Wamsusta Mills al make W AMSUTTA NAINSOOK, LUSTERSHEER, LINGERIE, WAMSUTTA UNDERWEAR CLOTH, and WAMSUTTA OXFORD | |i 














——v 





YO eon wo eo: rv) wv) rv} rv) Me, rw} Ivy rv) rv} 2. OO OO OO ON) OE) OE) OO) OE) OE) OE) Se oo Sr 
LU AP AP AS AS AP AS AS AS Al WS AS AWS AS AS AS AS AS AP AS Ae AP AP AS AS AS Ae Ae AP AP Ae AS AP AP AWE AS AS AS AS AP GP GP BP AS AS AWS WS Gv Gow 






























a poudre wholly 


Parisienne 















PARK & TILFORD 
NEW YORK PARIS 
DISTRIBUTORS IN AMERICA 


ON SALE IN THE BETTER SHOPS °* - 


| 




















VOGUE 


ran THE 


( Wy 


J 


7846 








7850 


7852 7853 


Autumn frocks are trimly 


mode! with the cape. 





ot 8 1.G N.S 
SEAMSTRESS 


A ¢ 


7851 7847 





Although the front of the mode is very simple, as may be 
seen from the sketches of these models on page 102, the 
back of the mode carries simplicity still further 


C 


——— 


— 





7848 7849 


straight of line, but négligées 


may be either tailored or more softly feminine, as is the 
Front views are shown on page 104 





appearance of dandruff, previously 
described in this article. 

This treatment, contrary to popular 
belief, is even more necessary for 
bobbed than for long hair, for the mode 
of cutting the hair close at the back 
of the neck demands all the energy of 
the scalp and often results in falling 
hair at the top. Bobbed-headed people 
also tend to neglect the nightly brush- 
ing and to shampoo the hair so fre- 
quently that it becomes excessively 
oily from over-stimulation. 


KEEPING THE BOB IN LINE 
Another drawback, not to the health 

of bobbed hair, but to its appearance, 

is the too-common affliction of dark 





hair growing low on the neck. A cer- 
tain establishment removes this hair 
with a special depilatory with ex- 
tremely satisfactory results. 

The aim is to follow the natural 
hair-line, including the fashionable 





point in the centre, but to take off the 
jagged points that extend downward 
back of the ears. This is done with 
applications of a hot wax depilatory, at 
intervals of a month or six weeks, which 
leaves the neck beautifully smooth and 
clean for several weeks and discourages 
the growth of new hair—neither of 
which clippers do. The disadvantages 
are the facts that this treatment leaves 
a rather hard line to the bob and that 
the neck is likely to be slightly red- 
dened for twenty-four hours after the 
first treatment. No water blisters or 
roughness follow, however. In some 
cases, half a dozen treatments will 
destroy the hair altogether; at worst, 
it is noticeably diminished in quantity 
and in texture. So far, it is the most 
practical method of eliminating what 
for some women is a positive disfigure- 
ment or an obstacle that has prevented 


ON HER DRESSING-TABLE 


(Continued from page 106) 


them from adopting the smart bob 
A NEW REDUCER 


The question of reducing 


LN AE 


ones 


weight to the proper amount of pound 
and the lines of the body to the ref 


quirements of grace arouses as muc! 
if not more, interest than ever. B} 
far the greater number of women, 3 
least at some period in their lives 
must do something to ward off increas- 
ing flesh, which, they realize, is 1 


intolerable detriment to the so impor 


tant silhouette. 


Last year, a reducing pin was inf 


troduced and has had great and well 
deserved success as a device for rr: 
gional and general reduction of thi 
body. But still the need was felt for 
something that would give 
attention to the chin, the arms, an 
the ankles. The answer has come it 


a small reducer, a “junior” of the larg 


pin, that may be used easily with on 
hand. It is excellent for the doubl 
chin, the disfigurement that womei 
fear most with the advance of age. |! 
is soothing to a tired throat and ¢ 
that place in the back of the net! 
that is often the centre of fatigue 
Faithfully used, it will make the files! 
of a flabby upper arm firm, or it wil 
reduce swollen and puffy ankles. 4s 
may be seen from the sketch at 1 
top of page 106, this device has ! 
corrugated roller revolving around ! 
pin. This roller and the handle 
of wood enamelled in lavender. T) 
price is $5.25. 


Note—Vogue Shopping Service, ! 
West 44th Street, will be glad to ma 
purchases upon receipt of a cheque {" 
the amount involved, or it will furnis! 
upon request, the addresses of 
places mentioned. A very small {t 
is included in the prices quoted. 





special 




























U 


wil 
cov 
hea 
duc 
crea 
to | 
con: 
whe 
asW 
prac 
witl 


T 
in t 
Thr 
plan: 
be. 
melo 
will 
Story 
little 
that 


In 
terest 
for. 


The | 
that 

Bu 
inst 
almos 
Planis 

























TE 








September 15 














111 
































Will your child love or hate practice? 


NLESS one thing happens, the little be- 
ginner in music will never like practice— 
will never be a real musician. Unless she dis- 
covers music for herself she will never put her 
heart into her practicing. Before she can pro 
duce music she must love music and want to 
bob.B create it. To love it she must know it— and 
to know it she must hear music, good music, 
_—® constantly. When she learns what music is, 
‘nfl when she grows to listen with her heart as well 
"te as with her ears — then she will understand that 
fll practice is only a step toward creating music 
‘Mi with her own hands. 


Think what a difference an Ampico can make 
in the whole musical life of your little girl. 
Through the Ampico, the world’s greatest 
pianists can tell her how beautiful real music may 
be. Rachmaninoff will play for her — austere 
melodies of snowbound waste lands. Ornstein 
will charm the strings into telling her a joyous 
story of sunny lands and laughing children. The 
little girl who hates to practice will discover 
that music means something ! 


In a few days practice will seem new and in- 
teresting. She will know what practicing is 
for. She will be learning to make music! 


What is the Ampico? 


si The Ampico is first of all a fine piano—one 
a that any artist would like to play. 





But the Ampico is much more than a fine 
, instrument. Concealed within the piano is an 
sifimm 2lmost magical device that brings the great 
(of Pianists of the world to play for you whenever 


THE AMPICO COMPANY : 437 FIFTH AVENUE ° 


and whatever you like. So, in an Ampico, you 
have the piano, plus the artist —the combination 
that must be effected before music can result. 


The music of all the world is yours to com- 
mand, through the Ampico. Sonatas, hymns, 
ballads, dance music—you can have any com- 
position you know or want to know. Modern 
concert music is included in the Ampico library 
almost before the critics have decided what they 
think of it. The latest dance tunes are recorded 
for the Ampico even before Yale juniors have 
learned to whistle the choruses. Then there 
are the musical treasures of generations —an 
inexhaustible store of melody. 


The Ampico is found exclusively in fine pianos. 
It can be had only with pianos bearing these 
names of enviable fame— names which, for gen- 
erations, have stood for instruments of quality: 


Knabe Chickering 
Fischer Haines Bros. 
Marshall & Wendell Franklin 


In Canada the Willis also 





























Note that the Knabe and the Chickering are 
two of the four great pianos in general use on 
the American concert stage. 


A few of the famous artists 
the Ampico brings to you 
Erno Dohnanyi * Leopold Godowsky ° Phillip 
Gordon * Mischa Levitzki * Josef Lhévinne 
Alfred Mirovitch * Benno Moiseiwitsch * Leo 
Ornstein * Mieczyslaw Miunz ° Sergei Rach- 
maninoff * Moriz Rosenthal’ Henry Souvairie* and 
Playing Popular Music: Adam Carroll * J. Milton 
Delcamp * Edgar Fairchild * Henry Lange * Vin- 


_ cent Lopez * Ralph Reichenthal * Harry Shipman. 


Exchange your piano for an Ampico 


Your present piano will entitle you to an allow- 
ance in buying an Ampico. The dealer will also 
be glad to arrange convenient terms of monthly 
payments, Foot-power models, $795. Electric 
models: uprights, $985 to $1800; grands, $1975 
to $5000. With freight added. 


Where wiil you first hear the Ampico? 


Perhaps you will hear the Ampico for the first 
time in your neighbor’s home—or at your club 
—or, just as freely, at the store of the dealer 
nearest you. Wherever you hear it—the 
Ampico will mystify and delight you. 


If you are not near a store where the Ampico 
is sold, or if you want to know more about the 
Ampico before hearing it, write to the address 
below. You will receive a booklet descriptive of 
the Ampico and information as to where you 
may hear it. 


NEW YORK 





VOGUE 


112 





SEVERITY AND SKILFUL SOFTENING 
OF LINES MINGLE IN YOUTHFUL COAT 

















McCutcheon's 


Write Today for 
New Fall and Winter 
Catalog! 

















Coat No. 7817 Coat No.7818 Frock No.7820 
The triple-ca ped coat with « The ensemble, a favourite of fash- 
collar suggesting Robespierre is ion, is here composed of a seven- 
a delightful mode that the au- eighths satin coat and a tunic- 
tumn has revived; 16 to 20 frock of crépe hermana; 16 to 20 | 


Shop on Fifth Avenue by Mail a 


Wauerever YOU LIVE, you can enjoy shop- 

ping at the Linen Store. For McCutcheon’s 

new and enlarged Fall and Winter Catalog 

is so profusely illustrated that you can make 

your selections as easily as if you visited 
‘ the store in person. ; 

You’ll find in this shopping guide, pages 

and pages of McCutcheon’s famous Linens. 

In addition, there are choice assortments of 

Sports Apparel, Lingerie, Handkerchiefs, 

: Children’s and Infants’ Dresses, Blouses, 

; Hosiery, Corsets and scores of other ne- 

| cessities. The prices are uniformly moderate. 





‘ Write today for this 32-page catalog, and 

shop on’ Fifth Avenue in your own home. s 
H Your orders will receive prompt and careful Fe 
attention. 


Fill in and 
mail coupon rae 








Coat No. 7816 Coat No. 7819 = ‘Skirt No. 7663 
Smartly straight and sint- A chic and youthful suit 
ple in line is this coat of is this patou crépe box-coat 
one width of 54-inch worn over a_ one-piece 

material; 16 to 20 wrapped skirt; 16 to 20 























Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, 
or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 























Greenwich, Connecticut ua 


UE 


——. 





September 15 


113 





- 














on" 











(WY 


~ 
Oy) 


HAUGHTY YOUNG LADY (to her dog): DOESN’T IT BEAT ALL, GIN-GIN, HOW CARELESS MEN CAN BE 
ABOUT SOME THINGS? 


[Listerine used as a mouth wash quickly overcomes Halitosis (unpleasant breath)]| 
















































iN 























Our productions of clothing, 
furnishings, footwear and 
headwear are accepted by 
the best known families of 
the United States as the stand- 
ard of dress for their boys. 


We specialize in complete out- 
fits for boys attending “prep” 


schools and select city schools. 


An exhibition of our autumn and winter 
importations and exclusive productions 
will be held in your city in the near 
future. We shall be pleased to send you, 
at your request, a card of admission to 
this exhibition. 





DE PINNA 


5th Avenue at 50th Street 
NEW YORK 














VOGUE 





SLIM LINES PURSUE THE TUNIC-BLOUSE AND 


SEPARATE COAT INTO THE AUTUMN MODE 





Coat No. 7808 


Fashion has put the stamp of 
chic on the seven-eighths-length 
coat. Here, it has a straight, con- 
vertible collar; sizes, 34 to 44 





Blouse No. 7838 


Crépe faille provides the material 
charm of a tunic-blouse with 
two straight flounces and long 
or short sleeves; 34 to 40 


Blouse No. 7839 


The small collar and tucked 
centre front are the very smart 
notes of a tunic-blouse; long or 
short sleeves; sizes, 34 to 40 


Coat No. 7806 Skirt No. 7651 


The three-quarters, double- 
breasted coat reflects the mode 
in a suit having a wrapped skirt ; 
coat, 34 to 44; skirt, 24 to 32 

































Importers and Outfitters 
Va 

















Patterns may be obtained from any shop Selling Vogue patterns, 
or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 
Greenwich, Connecticut 








Se 


fila 














September 15 115 


adie 
gh 




















he 
t . 
\ sf 
4 z : H ps } 
2) New Buick Model 
the Sreates t motor-car values 
Open Models Closed Models 
Standard Sixes Standard Sixes 
5-pass. Double Service Sedan $1475 
2-pass. Roadster - « « $1150 5-pass. —- owe) 6) 3° $6GS 
“| irc. ah tel 4-pass.Coupe - - - - 1565 
Speen Touring an75 2-pass. Double Service Coupe 1375 
Master Sixes Master Sixes 
S-pass.Sedan - + + «+ $2225 
2-pass. Route °- « «+ $1365 7-pass. Sedan OS Ta 
S-pass. Touring - - - - 1395 5-pass. Brougham Sedan - 2350 
7-pass. Touring - - - - 1625 2-pass.Country Club Special 2075 
4-pass.Coupe - - - - 2125 
3-pass. Sport Roadster - - 1750 7-pass. Limousine - - - 2525 
4-pass. Sport Touring - - 1800 Town Car - -+- «© « « 2925 
Enclosed Open Models 
(With Heaters) 
Standard Sixes Master Sixes 
2-pass. Roadster- - - + $1400 
2-pass. Roadster - « « $1190 5-pass. Touring - - - - 1475 
5-pass. Touring - - - - 1250 7-pass. Touring - - - - 1700 
All Prices f. o. b. Buick Factories. Government Tax to be added. - 
BUICK MOTOR COMPANY, FLINT, MICHIGAN 
Division of Genexal Motors Corporation 
Pioneer Builders of Branches in All Principal 
" Valve-in-Head Motor Cars Cities—Dealers Everywhere es 4 
y oN Canadian Factories: MCLAUGHLIN-BUICK, Oshawa, Ont. y ; 
‘lle: WHEN BETTER AUTOMOBILES ARE HUrLT, BUICE WILL BUILD THEM. of 

















VOGUE 5 


str 





aa deaienie OF THE TAILORED TYPE IS A 





SMART NOTE OF THE NEW SEASON 


eo 


~ 


"ah i-ag 




















ie 

Fy 

i= 

p i: was 

Hi rf | 

i Miss | 
Georgina 


Ogilvie Nightgown No. 7842 | 
(Left) This French voile | 
nightgown has a contrasi- 
ing shirt-bosom vestee and 
cuffs joined by hemstitch- 
ing, a convertible collar, 
and set-in sleeves; sizes, 
34 to 42 


1 Has it become toc oily through excessive 
shampooing? | 
Use “Tonic for Oily Hair’, an astringent which | 


gradually regulates the glands. It cleanses the scalp 
of oily dandruff, too. 8 oz. $2.00. | 





2 Has it become too dry from exposure to sun 
and wind? 





Use “Tonic for Dry Hair’, nourishing and stimulat- 
ing. It makes the hair glossy and also cleanses the 
scalp of dry dandruff. 8 0z. $2.00. 


3 Is it showing symptoms of excessive fall— 
premature grayness? 
Use “Special Remedy”. This tonic stops the fall, en- 
courages the growth, stimulates the color cells and _ jf | 
overcomes. dandruff. 8 oz. $2.00. | 








4 Have you dandruff? 
Use the Tonic suited to your type of scalp as indicated 
above and the Pomade. $1.25 a jar. 


In any abnormal scalp condition consult a 
specialist— 













Do not experiment. You may do more 
harm than good. For twenty years 
the Ogilvie Sisters have been au- 
thorities on the care of the hair. 
They have perfected a tonic for 
every type, for no one tonic will over- 
come all abnormalities of the scalp any 
more than one medicine will cure all 
ailments of the body. 





| 
- \ 
Ogilvie Sisters will be glad to advise you without charge as to the | 
particular treatment your hair needs. | 
Write for diagnosis blank, and for the interesting booklet, “Beauti- 
ful Hair by Common Sense Methods’—free. 
Preparations at Leading New York Stores and also at 
| 


Joseph Horne Co., Pittsburch 

Wm. Filene’s Sons Co.. Boston 
Gimbel Brothers, Philadelphia 

The D. M. Read wo., nuwiand Dry 


Frederick Loeser, Brooklyn 
Hahne’s, Newark 
Halle Bros., Cleveland 
Frederick & Nelson, Seattle 
Bon Marche, Seattle . Goods Co., Bridgeport 
Adam, Meldrum & Anderson, Buffalo Reid & Hughes, Norwich, Conn. 
City of Paris, San Francisco 
Treatments, by Ogilvie Sisters methods, are given in the 
City of Paris Salon 








. > ‘ | 
i ula | 
| Page | 
Hair, Scalp and Henna Specialists 
505 Fifth Avenue (Dept. 17), New York City 








308 Boylston St. 1106 Connecticut Avenue 
Boston, Mass. Washington, D. C. ay 
ED hier AE Le 


} H 
t 23 Rue de la Paix 
a | 4) Paris 





Pyjamas No. 7841 
The jacket of a two-piece 
pyjama suit has a yoke formed 
by an extension of the back, 
and long or short sleeves; sizes, 
34 to 42 





Chemise No. 7840 


Slashes below a camisole top 

give fulness in a_ step-in 

chemise of silk or cotton, with 

or without applied lace; sizes, 
34 to 42 





Patterns may be obtained from any shop Selling Vogue patterns, 
or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 
Greenwich, Connecticut 











E September 15 : 119 











JEWELS ADORN BEAUTY BUT PEARLS EXALT IT! 
ZN) 
UN beautiful in her own right, a woman becomes more 
we OWEVER beaut ght, 
Ox, 


beautiful in pearls, as instantly and as inevitably as the effect of 
the richest room, or the simplest, is transfigured by the magic 
beauty of flowers! 





Pearls do more than adorn beauty. 
THEY EXALT IT! 
And that is equally true whether they be Orientals or Téclas. 


9 
Técla Pearl Necklaces with C COL. Técla Pearls can be procured 


Diamond Clasps I Iifth/henue- New Gok in America only from Técla, 
a $100 to $350 10 Rue de la Paix Paris 398 Fifth Avenue, New York 
7 Old Bond Street, London 






















Be ad 








and:-as-nature 


Bpaints --- WIth 


7 autumn: colors 


i —then the Meadowbrook 
artists look about them and 
find inspiration for a dozen 
subtle reds and browns. 











et 
YASS 











Sur 











* For this is the secret of the 
lilting colors that so distinguish 
these Meadowbrook Sports 
Hats, from California: They 
are borrowed from nature— 
“born of California sunshine.” 


What wonder, then, that 
the Meadowbrook is recog- 
nized as le dernier cri in sports 
millinery by women who re- 
alize that to be correctly hat- 
ted is to be well dressed! 


Ask to see the new Fall 
Meadowbrooks in a pleasing 
assortment of materials, modes 
and colors. ‘ 





























At those stores where you 
would expect to find the best. 






Simon Mituinery Co. 
Meadowbrook Building, 989 Market St. 
San Francisco 
EASTERN SALES OFFICE 
Louis Strauss &% Son 
15 West 38th Street, New York City 







California 
SPORTS : HATS 
Town and Country 









VOGUE 





















Bloomers No. 7845 
(Right) Bloomers for gen- 
eral or sports wear are 
made of pussy-willow silk 
with elastic at the waist 
and knees; 25, 27, or 20 

inches side length 












































Nightgown No. 7844 
The shirt-bosom vest is an 
interesting note in a_ silk 
nightgown with kimono sleeves 
and trimmings of contrasting 
colour; 34 to 42 


PRACTICAL AND CHARMING UNDERWEAR THAT 
CAN EASILY BE MADE BY THE SEAMSTRESS 








































Nightgown No. 7843 
Madras or flannelette makes 
a practical slip-on nightgown 
with a yoke extension of the 
back and long or short sleeves; 
sizes, 34 to 42 
























Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, 
or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 
Greenwich, Connecticut 









nw 
4 


September 15 119 


‘Beauty’ s Secret Solved 
in Luxor’s Latest Powder 











Luxor’s leadership in creating beauty 
aids has compelled the pursuit through 
long and devious paths, year after year, 
of that secret of the centuries —a perfect 
combined beauty powder. 

For your delighted approval, Luxor 
now presents in Encharma Cold Cream 
Complexion Powder the complete fulfill- 
ment of the skin’s two greatest needs: 


cold cream—gently cleansing and refresh- . 


ing ; with perfected powder—light, trans- 
parent and exceptionally clinging. 


“Richer,” “softer,” “finer,” “more ad- 
” «<deli- 
eli 


herent than any powder ever used, 


whol 





LUXOR Limited 


ciously fragrant,” “stays on so Jong!’ — 
these are but a few of the appreciative, 
enthusiastic comments from the growing 
host of firm friends, who, having tried 
Encharma, will use no other. It is the 
one powder with the gift of that velvety- 
cool charm of appearance. 

To you, too, Encharma can bring its . 
alluring aid to loveliness. Test its luxury 
today! You can secure it in flesh, white, 
or rachel—in its daintily colorful oval © 
box. With it, just inside the lid, comes 
a fluffy, deep-piled oval puff. Sold 


everywhere. 


Yor arma. 
& old Cream 
flexion 


owder 





3 Ruxo¥ rs | 


Rouge Parfait 


Cold Cream 
; = Vanishing Cream 
In this charming ip Poaiads 
Talcum 
oval box Toilet Water 
with puff enclosed Bath Salts 


pens Rouge Parfait—the most widely 
used in America—and exquisite, cling- 
ing Luxor Complexion Powder find 
perfect setting and easy accessibility 
in this, the onlv gold-plated, thin 
duo compact selling for $1.50 today 






Luxor 
Duo Compact 


rfumers 


PARIS a, NEW YORK 


. Oo tii, 2:8 Ot sit 8 





OF ENDURING CGHRARM 








120 








SEEN ON 


“The Fall-Guy,” by two comedians, 
James Gleason and George Abbott. 

The importations do not look quite 
as imposing as when Morris Gest held 
Max Reinhardt and “The Miracle” be- 
yond the three-mile limit; but they are 
notable, nevertheless. The most enter- 
taining at this distance is the inter- 
national revue which André Charlot 
and Arch Selwyn are compounding 
under the title of “Rue de la Paix.’ The 
eminence of this musical show is due 
to the presence in it of a young woman 
whose dramatic genius in character 
songs has swept Europe as swiftly as 
did Yvette Guilbert’s a quarter of a cen- 
tury ago. She is Raquel Meller, the 
Spaniard. With her in “Rue de la 
Paix” will come another entertainer 
of outstanding quality, the great clown 
Grock; in his field, he is unexcelled, 
unless by the three Fratellini of Paris. 
If Reinhardt fails to return this season 
under the management of Morris Gest, 
the most interesting items, next to the 
coming of Meller, may be certain im- 
portations from England. The Phoenix 
Society of London has for some sea- 
sons been giving occasional perform- 
ances of classic English plays, particu- 
larly Restoration comedies. The start- 
ling success of Nigel Playfair’s revival 
of Congreve’s “The Way of the World” 
at the Lyric Theatre, Hammersmith, 
where “Abraham Lincoln” and “The 
Beggar’s Opera” were seen, has doubt- 
less moved Walter Wanger to bring 
over the Phoenix repertory. It in- 
cludes “The Country Wife,” by Wy- 
cherley, “Love for Love,” by Congreve, 
“Amphitryon,” by Dryden, and a play 
by Ford. 

Since Playfair promises to present 
Congreve’s “The Way of the World” 
over here, and the Cherry Lane Theatre 
announces the same play, and the 
Provincetown Playhouse “Love for 
Love,” there should be more than 
enough of Congreve for any taste. ~ 

Distinguished in their own way are 
the two French players who will in- 
vade New York. Madame Simone, 
who was here briefly last season, will 
return in a longer repertory and under 
the management of Anne Nichols, 
author and producer of “Abie’s Irish 
Rose.” Besides standbys like “Madame 
Sans-Géne” and “La Dame aux Came- 
lias,” Madame Simone will appear in 
“L’Aiglon,” “La Parisienne,” by Henry 
Becque, “Amoureuse,” by Porto-Riche, 
“Hedda Gabler,” “Phédre,” “La Cou- 
turiére de Luneville,” and “Les Butins 
de la Finette.” Rather more arresting 
as a promise is the word from James 
K. Hackett that he has invited Fermin 
Gémier to New York. Gémier is the dis- 
tinguished actor and director, whose 
stage reforms, lying along the lines of 
Reinhardt, won him the directorship 
of the state-endowed Odéon. 

Among European plays already listed 
for this season are “The Two Adven- 
turers,” by Sacha Guitry, in which 
Delysia will appear; Werfel’s “The 
Goat Song,” long promised by the 
Theatre Guild together with Molnar’s 
“The Guardsman”; “Grounds for 
Divorce,”.a new play by Ernst Vajda, 
in which Ina Claire will appear under 
Gi'bert Miller's direction; and a 
comedy by Frederick Lonsdale, in the 
title of which, “Most of Us Are,” he 
seems to answer his own “Aren’t We 
All?” 

For this season, the Neighborhood 
Playhouse, the little East Side theatre 
of the Misses Lewisohn, Agnes Mor- 
gan, and Helen Arthur, which has 
long done distinguished work through 
the development of neighbourhood talent 
in the dance, and through the impor- 
tation of English and Continental plays, 
announces -six productions for its’ sub- 


VOGUE 


ce STAGE 


(Continued from page 82) 


scribers including James Joyce’s “Ex- 
iles,” “The Little Clay Cart,” a Hindu 
classic “admitting of a modern treat- 
ment, robustly humorous in characteri- 
zation and decorative in composition” ; 
“Sooner or Later,” a lyric piece of 
music, a new American play, a familiar 
dramatic version of Walt Whitman’s 
“Salut au Monde,” and an informal 
revue, this time for subscribers only, 
such as the present “Grand Street 
Follies” which has scored so sharp a 
success this summer. The Provincc- 
town group, of which I must admit, 
embarrassedly, to be the director, will 
add to their activities the Greenwich 
Village Theatre and maintain in both 
houses a sing:e repertory company ap- 
pearing in the plays by O'Neill, Ed- 
mund Wilson, Stark Young, and Con- 
greve already mentioned, and in Ros- 
tand’s final play, “The Last Niglit of 
Don Juan,” Copeau’s dramatization 
of “The Brothers Karamazoff,” Walter 
Hasenclever’s “Beyond,” “Much Ado 
about Nothing,” and a Gilbert and 
Sullivan revival done in the spirit 
of the ’70’s. 

Announcements are as yet lacking 
or incomplete from many of the other 
new producing groups, but it is cer- 
tain that the Equity Players will con- 
tinue, following their success with “Ex- 
pressing Willie”; that Robert Milton 
will at last have a theatre of his own 
in the Vanderbilt and begin production 
with a play called “The Exiles” (not 
Joyce’s) ; that the Independent Thea- 
tre, Inc., producer of “The Shame 
Woman,” will employ Edward Good- 
man, director of the Washington Square 
Players, to stage its plays; and that 
Henry Stillman and the Kausers have 
ambitious plans for the Players at the 
Lenox Hill Theatre. 

At the moment of writing, the plans 
of Arthur Hopkins are not yet an- 
nounced, but, besides “What Price 
Glory” and a play by Arnold Bennett, 
and another by Michael Arlen, he is 
to make an ambitious revival of 
“Othello” with William Farnum, the 
screen star, as the Moor. What of 
John Barrymore? Will he play Iago? 
Hopkins could nowhere find a better 
one. Robert Edmond Jones will de- 
sign the settings for this “Othello.” 

It is highly probable, rumours say, 
that, if Charles Dillingham’s produc- 
tion of Leo Fall’s operetta, ‘““Madame 
Pompadour” is not a success, a Hop- 
kins production will succeed it in the 
new theatre which Martin Beck, the 
vaudeville magnate, has laid out upon 
Forty-fifth street, along distinctly fresh 
lines. 

Before plunging further into the 
musical field, I should record that 
David Belasco is seeking new starring 
material in Helen Menken and Julia 
Anderson, and that he is said to have 
a drama of black and white miscegena- 
tion for Lenore Ulric, “Lulu Belle,” by 
Edward Sheldon and another; that 
Walter Hampden, with the obstinate 
success of “Cyrano” out of the way, 
will proceed to his repertory of Shaks- 
pere, “A New Way to Pay Old Debts,” 
and his play founded on Browning's 
“The Ring and the Book”; that Mar- 
garet Anglin contemplates a repertory 
season along popular lines; and that 
Horace Liveright, the publisher, is em- 
barking in theatricals partnered with 
Frank Mandel and Lawrence Schwab, 
beginning with a play by Edwin Justus 
Mayer, author of “A Preface to Life.” 

Many’ are the jolly things that the 
Ziegfelds and the Berlins have in store 
for us. Billie Burke is to return to 
musical comedy under her husband’s 
auspices in a piece by Clare Kummer. 
Ziegfeld is also to present Leon Errol 

(Continued on page 134) 











September 15 








INTRODUCING 


GERA FABRICS 


for FALL 


Products of the Gera Mills are shown on the following 
four pages in a Series of Advanced Fall 
Fashions in such materials as 


MOKINE REPLERA 
MOLERA 


‘Fhe following pages particularly illustrate 
the perfect suitability of these Gera Fabrics 
for interpreting the approaching mode. 
This series will be continued in both Har- 
per’s Bazar and Vogue through October 
and November with new models. cw For: 
twenty-five years the Gera Mills have made 
only the very finest fabrics, in every variety, 
demanded by well-dressed women 





GERA MILLS 


FOUNDED 1900 
257 Fourth Avenue - New York City 


Presented with the co-operation of these charming members of New York Society who graciously consented to pose, 

in the interest of charity, for the sketches shown: Miss Janet Brower, Miss Harriet Camac, Mrs. Van Henry Cartmell, 

Miss Constance Delanoy, Mrs. Alvin Devereux, Miss Helen Gould, Miss Adeline Hatch, Mrs. Frederic Humphreys, 
Mrs. S. Theodore Hodgman, Jr., Mrs. Putnam Morrison, Miss Catherine Okie, Mrs, Fenton Taylor 


All sketches by Miss E. M. A. Steinmetz. 


Introduced with the co-operation of these four New York shops: 
Bonwit, Teller & Co. Stein & Blaine Henri Bendel Franklin Simon & Co. 




















“ia 
| 














fice 






































4 YY. yy 














STUDY OF MISS CONSTANCE DELANOY 


Miss Delanoy is wearing a new model by BONWIT TELLER 
& CO. especially designed for GERA MILLS “MOKINE.” 


“ Mokine,” «u distinctly new, Duvetyn-like fabric, exquisitely soft and 
fine, is used in Russian green for this wrap. It is a slim straight wrap 
that achieves the effect of a smart coat-frock because it is so simple and 
has none of the clumsiness of a top-cout. The huge collar is of beaver. 


GERA MILLS PORTFOLIO OF ADVANCED FASHIONS 





E 





eptember 15 























| 
Ym 








ye Mb 


af een 











STUDY OF MISS HELEN GOULD 


GERA MILLS PORTFOLIO OF ADVANCED FASHIONS 


‘like fabric. The new smart length, which is neither “three-quarters” nor 


Miss Gould is wearing a new creation by STEIN & BLAINE 
especially designed fon GERA MILLS “MOKINE.” 


The full draped sumptuous folds of this luxurious, buttonless wrap-around 
coat are softly supple in gracious “Mokine,” a new, exquisite, Duvetyn- 


“full,” is accented by effectively arranged pelts of fine deep chapchilla. 





ioe) 











LET PARE AER CRE: 


oe 
































STUDY OF MISS HARRIET CAMAC 


Miss Camac is wearing a new model by HENRI BENDEL 
especially designed for GERA MILLS “MOLERA.” 


The costume complete has now become the almost standard costume for the smart 
woman. This “ensemble” of cocoa colored “Molera” has a three-quarter length 
coat banded with kolinsky. The frock is of matching fabric ‘‘Molera,” a new 
soft fabric that has a moleskin surface that is as soft and as fine as cashmere. 


GERA MILLS PORTFOLIO OF ADVANCED FASHIONS 








JE 





September 15 

















said: 

















so soemernaget 
































STUDY OF MISS CATHERINE OKIE 


Miss Okie is wearing a new model by FRANKLIN SIMON 
& CO. especially designed for GERA MILLS “ REPLERA.” 


Another phase of the costume complete is the coat-frock with matching accessories. The unusually 
simple and smart coat-frock sketched above is of “‘Replera,” a new fabric that 1s neither rep nor 
bengaline, but has much of the charm of both. It is used in bark color with smcll decorative 
patches of leopard fur. The brown felt hat and sable furs are in perfect harmony «ith the freck. 





GERA MILLS PORTFOLIO OF ADVANCED FASHIONS 











| 


Are you the lucky 


one in five? 


Not if your gums bleed easily 
Check Pyorrhea with Forhan’s 








Pyorrhea, destroyer of teeth and health, plays 
no favorites. 


Dental records show that four persons out of 
every five past 40, and thousands younger, 
too, are Pyorrhea’s victims. — 


Heed Nature's warning — tender, bleeding 
gums—before it is too late. 


Better still, stop Pyorrhea before it strikes 
by regular visits to your dentist and by brush- 
ing your teeth twice daily with Forhan’s For 
the Gums. 


Forhan’s For the Gums, if used in time and 
used consistently, will help prevent Pyorrhea 
or check its course; keep the gums firm, the 
teeth white, the mouth healthy. 


There is only one tooth paste of proved efficacy 
in the treatment of Pyorrhea. It is the one that 
many thousands have found beneficial for years. 
For your own sake, make sure that you get it. 
Ask for, and insist upon, Forhan’s For the 
Gums. At all druggists, 35c and 6oc in tubes 


orhaty 


FOR THE GUMS 


More than a tooth paste— 
it checks Pyorrhea 


/V 
edit. 


Formula of 


RJ-Forhan DDS 


Forhan@ : 
oo Nwlek oD 





























ONE WEEK 


VOGUE 


IN CAIRO 





E visited Cairo 
in the summer, 
much to the 


wonder of the natives, 
white and brown, who 
probably had never seen 
two women without 
male escort invade 
Egypt at that season of 
the year, when nothing 
was going on in Cairo 
or anywhere else in that 
part of the world. But 
we could not possibly 
go in_ winter, and, 
rather than not see 
Egypt at all, we risked 
it in summer. 

In Athens, we bade 
our fellow travellers and 
the Corcovado good- 
bye, took what was re- 
commended to us as the 
best Turkish boat to 
Africa (may we never 
see the worst!), and 
arrived there, quivering 
with excitement at the 
thought of all we were 
going to see. 


ty 


Each palm-tree in 
the land of Cairo 1s 
: : a unit of beauty, de- 
We were not disap- serving a 


ends it. Jugglers ap- 
proach and men with 
trick monkeys. It is 
truly a passing show. 
What must it be in 
winter with all the 
strangers in the city? 
All night and every 
night, there are deafen- 
ing noises in the street 
The first night, we 
thought a mob of howl- 
ing dervishes were out- 
side the hotel, and, th 
second night, we were 
sure men were being 
murdered in the street. 
We never found out 
what the uproar was 
about; but the men cer- 
tainly knew how to 
howl, and, the later the 
hour, the louder grew 
the howling. And that 
reminds me of the howi- 
ing we heard one day in 
broad daylight. We 
were walking along on 
one of the busy streets 
when the most  out- 





mirrored landish sounds fell upon 


pointed. In fact, we reflection our ears. They came 


had indications of what 
was coming before we 
left the Osmanieh. The steerage was 
filled with pilgrims to Mecca, who were 
taken off the boat in the harbour of 
Alexandria and conducted to a sort 
of Egyptian Castle Garden to be dis- 
infected. It was a never-to-be-forgot- 
ten sight: turbaned men; women, 
veiled and unveiled; children of all 
ages; colours in all shades; dirt 
in every degree; representatives of 
Turkey, Armenia, Syria, and other 
Eastern provinces. The dirtiest of 
them all was a “tourist,” a man travel- 
ling just for pleasure, one of the officers 
told us. All he had on was a shirt 
and a skirt, both indescribably dirty. 
And their baggage! Small bundles, 
big bundles, medium-sized bundles, 
none of them clean, baskets of all de- 
scriptions, Persian rugs, teapots, bird- 
cages—everything was thrown pell- 
mell from the boat into the tender. 
For two women, the most interesting 
spot in Cairo after dinner is certainly 
Shepherd’s Terrace, for taking a walk 
in the evening without an escort is 
taboo. Vendors in an endless proces- 
sion come along trying to sell wares of 
all kinds— baskets, canes, statuettes, 
foreign stamps, countless articles of 
use or of no use. They are not allowed 
to come up to the terrace, but stay 
below on the sidewalk, and the buying 
and selling are done through the fence. 
The vendors can all say a few words 
in English, and they all smile and look 
pleasant, even if you do not buy. 
Their last word is ““To-morrow ?”, and 
you reply, “Yes, to-morrow,” and that 





Peterffy 


from a funeral proces- 
sion. First came a 
handful of men whom we took to be 
the mourners, all of them looking 
dirty and begrimed as if they had just 
left their work; following them, the 
coffin carried by four men; then, a 
mob of old, ugly, dishevelled women. 
These were paid to do the howling, and 
they did it with a vengeance. I was 
getting my kodak ready to take the 
picture of this unusual scene, but 
Toppus, our dragoman, turned pale 
and absolutely forbade me to photo- 
graph the funeral. 
“Bad luck for the rest of your life,” 
he said. 
The museum was of intense interest 


“to us, and the body of the great 


Rameses II. was one of the many 
astonishing things contained in it. He 
still possesses one or two teeth and has 
a remaining wisp of hair. A fascinat- 
ing collection of old jewellery next 
caught our attention; and, in another 
part of the building, among other 
things, dice, wigs, thread, vases, hatch- 
ets, bags, magic wands, and _ baskets 
interested us because of their likeness 
to modern articles. Many of these 
things were excavated in the Nile 
Valley and had been used. there, two, 
three, or four thousand years ago. 

The Shari Kamel is Cairo’s Main 
Street. First-class shops, hotels, and 
restaurants line both sides of the 
thoroughfare; and, while State Street 
in Chicago is wider and Fifth Avenue 
in New York is longer, still the Shari 
Kamel has an attraction of its own 

(Continued on page 152) 


Ye 


The world-old enchantment of Egypt pervades the village of 

Margh, near Cairo, where the camel tread is as stately, the 

gleam of the mosque as brilliant, the garment of the native as 
picturesque as in the days of the Pharaohs 








September 15 

















Bodies which carry the emblem—Body by Fisher—are generally 
recognized as marking the highest development of artistic, 
structural and service standards. As a consequence, it is also 
conceded that a car not equipped with a Fisher Body cannot truly 
be said to give the utmost in beauty, comfort, long life and value. 


FISHER BODY CORPORATION, DETROIT 
CLEVELAND WALKERVILLE, ONT. ST. LOUIS 


























Your Skin Lightened Several Shades:++ And as Soft and 
Lovely as a Baby’s++This New Way or Money Refunded 


Left on the skin 5 minutes and then washed off. A skin cathar- 
tic that affects the pores like a laxative does the bowels. It 
instantly makes them discharge their poisonous accumulations. 
And you see the results right then. For when the oil goes, 
greasiness, blackheads, imperfections go, too. 

In a few minutes you appear like anew woman. Youthful fresh- 


For over twenty years my business has been to assist women 
to become younger and more beautiful. . . Many of the women 
ot New York, London and the Continent, attribute their 
vouthful looks—the freshness of skin to my methods. Meth- 
ods formerly used only in my private practice but now offered 
to all women at a price that is extremely modest. 


Beauty To-Day 
1 know this is an amazing statement. I 
know you will be skeptical. But, re- 
member, I guarantee it in writing. Thus you 
are safe in trying it. In case of failure, 
the treatment costs you nothing. 


Purges the Pores 
I am safe in my guarantee because my 
method is based on scientific acceptance 
—upon facts. 
I know why your skin is muddy. Why it 
has no color, no radiance. And I know 
how to correct it, for it is a simple prob- 
lem. Your pores are clogged with a dead 
oil. Are not performing their natural 
eliminatory functions. 
This oil becomes solidified: in the pores 
and germ infected. Bacteria, by the mil- 
lions, feed in it. You must remove it— 
must remove it now, and combat the 
germ life that remains. 
My treatment does this. Itiscalled Fayre, 
and is applied like a cold cream. 











NO MONEY 
IF I FAIL! 


These Four Effects 


Guaranteed in Writing 


lewsTo clear a muddy, greasy 
complexion. 


2evsTo lighten adarkskin four 
to seven shades and to leave it 
with a soft, natural radiance. 


3cen0Toremoveblackheads, fine 
lines and freckles. 


4cevoWith continued use— 3 
times a week—to literally make 
Gver any woman whose com- 
plexion is not good. 













by 


Dr. Paal Roxly 


ness isback again. And your own mirror 
will tell you so. If not, the treatment 
cests you nothing. I’ve proved my case 
thousands of times. Now I seek the op- 
portunity of proving it to you. 


Make the Test 


Get a jar of Fayre at any downtown 
department store or at any druggist, any- 
where. It comes in 2 sizes, $1.00 and 
$2.00 with a written guarantee. Try it. 
Then note results; not in one month or 
one week, but in one day. 

If your dealer cannot supply you, use the 
coupon below and obtain a supply by 
mail, postpaid. It will be a revelation. 
I guarantee to clear your complexion. To 
give you skin beauty. If I fail, the treat- 
ment costs you nothing. 

I make the guarantee because I know no 
reasonable person would believe it possi- 
ble to accomplish this result in so short 
atime. So, to avoid doubt or delay, I 
offer a written warrant.Thus you assume 
no risk making the test. 


No Delay—No Waiting 
Beauty can be yours too—r 
To-day! 







VOGUE 


@ ko Shis Jost 


—See What Happens When You 
Purge the Dead Oil From Your 
Skin Thats Making it Dark, 
Muddy and Lifeless 


PRR RET omy 


¥ 



















Everybody t 


WOMAN once had to choose between plain 
white undermuslins and beautiful, tinted silks 
—between sending her clothes to the laundress or 
laundering them at home with infinite care. 
But—until Lingette was created—she could not 
have doth beautiful underthings and freedom from 
laundry worries. Silk was exquisite—but the effects 
of warm, cleansing suds, of hot irons, had to be 
worried about— guarded against. Muslin was 
durable but not exquisite! 
And then Lingette was perfected — with the 
beauty of silk and the sturdiness of cotton — 


FRED BUTTERFIELD & CO., Inc. 
361 Broadway, N. Y. C. 


inks its silk 


Lingette that meets the test of modern laundry 
methods and comes back with its shimmering 
loveliness unimpaired ! 

Yet, even better than its beauty, Lingette offers 
long wear. In garments where friction is greatest 
—as bloomers, for instance—you will be really 
amazed at the wear-resistance Lingette affords. 

But you must make sure that what you buy 
és Lingette! 

Won't you protect yourself and see that the 
word Lingette zs on the selvage, or that the 
Lingette label zs in the garment? 


LINGETTE IS A BUTTERFIELD 
QUALITY FABRIC 


Bloomer, Chemise, Shirt, Lining, Pajama, Quilt, Creeper. 
Look for them before you buy. 


There are other Lingette labels which read: Slip, Vest, 
Gown, Camisole, Brassiere, Garment, 








“SELL AND REPENT™ 
REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. 































AAO 


Tre 





First Frock 






LINE of white serge for 

slenderness; gold and black 
braid for emphasis; white serge 
pockets and gold metal buttons 
for sheer audacity! Thus Pau 
Tones gave interest to this cheer- 
ful frock, in all-wool green Jersey. 
What a challenge to a somber day! 
Designed from Vogue Pattern 
No. 7681, in sizes 14 to 22 and 
34 to 42. 


Tue Seconp Frocr 


GSRENELY in the mood of rus- 
set leaves is this tan self-plaid 
crepe, all-wool, with piquant col- 
lar of cream flannel. Altogether 
charming, too, the large ocean 
pearl buttons at the neck, and 
the assertive cuffs. Four pockets 
are four marks of thoughtfulness. 
Designed from Vogue -Pattern 
No. 7508, in sizes 14 to 22 and 
34 to 42. 



































True Tuirpo 
AUL JONES provided a 


cream Jersey scarf, hand em- 
& broidered, and made it a part of 
: this ingenuous frock by a clever 
a device of buttons. The cloth is all- 
= wool Jersey—shade Canna, in 
: this instance—but may also be 
had in green, meadow green, or 
Sevres blue. Designed from Vceue 
Pattern No. 7546, in sizes 14 to 
22 and 34 to 42. 


Frock 





Tue Fourtu Frock 


OUTH, demure and un- 

spoiled, is in the simple lines 
of this green flannel frock. The 
flaring collar is piped with white 
flannel, and the many-buttoned 
cuffs likewise. At the throat, the 
buttons are ocean pearl. Also may 
be had in tan, gold, grey, tan- 
gerine, powder blue, medium blue, 
copen, and navy. Designed from 
Vogue Pattern No. 7647, in sizes 
14 to 22 and 34 to 42. 


PAUL JONES 
Vogue Pattern Models 
$19.50 10 $39.59 





- 
: 
3 
N 
, 
s 
¥ 


é 
i 


PAUL JONES FROCKS “xo winter 


made from Vogue's Exclusive Pattern Designs a ie 


OU will be glad to know—you who welcomed __ the services of an exclusive dressmaker. The 
so enthusiastically and patronized so gener- = same exquisiteness and design, the same niceties 
ously the new Paut Jones Tub Frocks last Spring of finish . .. For the fashionable woman, 
—that this famous tailleur has decided to continue whether her means be moderate or other- 
the use of Vogue’s exclusive pattern designs, and _ wise, the opportunity is indeed deserving of 
has made from them these delightful Pau, Jones _— attention. 
Frocks for Fall and Winter. Paut Jones Frocks for Fall and Winter are 


Now, for the first time, you have the oppor- sold in the better shops everywhere. If your 


tunity to select garments, ready-made, which favorite shop does not have them, write us and 


formerly could have been obtained only through _— we will gladly tell you where they can be bought. 


MORRIS & COMPANY, INcORPORATED, BALTIMORE, MARYLAND 





The McCallum de luxe style book 
illustrates the styles we make. Send 
to McCallum Hosiery Company, 
Northampton, Massachusetts. 


The shop that sells McCallum 
Silk Hosiery is offering sincerely 
lhe best style and the best quality 
there ts in silk stockings. 












bee = eh im J X 
~~ an) 


— se NN Rep « 
Be asain OD ara’ 





- 
HE ( 





PE RTE it FCB RR Rb Se 






























omen & 
. me se | 
: > RG a 
: = orm gi 
c : al 
O 2 
() 5 
= oO 
© Oo 
7, a Be 
YY ~ 
to Se > 
eat oO . 
Tink Si SAV, wT BPE EE ERS EOE GSN SRE SB a nD Bee see a = : : = 








September 15 


§ 
‘ 


{ 2 
4 


PARAS 3 
ty <- : : 


WA 


L 
) 










3 


3, GOLOG 
%, , 





2537 











The World’s Most Exclusive Parfumeur 


NLY fastidious women, women who have been accustomed all their lives 
to the superlative—women who can afford to be exclusive —only such 
fortunate women as these are numbered among the users of Lubin perfumes. 


For since the days of the Empress Josephine, when they first won the accept- ~ 
ance of the Continental aristocracy, Parfums Lubin have retained their charm “7S 














by retaining their exclusiveness. 


For Parfums Lubin are acknowledged the 
finest made in all France. The firm of Lubin 
is one of the rare French houses which manu- 


factures in France only. 


So quite naturally these are the most ex- 
pensive perfumes in the world. For today 
that is the only way they can be kept from 


NEW YORK CITY 
B. Altman & Co. 
John Wanamaker 
Franklin Simon & Co. 
Lord & Taylor, Inc. 
Saks & Co., Inc. 
Stern Bros. 
Gimbel Brothers 
P. M. Everts 
Munsch, Protzman Co. 
John E. Thomas 


BROOKLYN, N. Y. 
Abraham & Straus, Inc. 


CHICAGO, ILL. 

Marshall Field & Co. 

J. F. Carnegie, Drake 
Hotel Pharmacy and 
Blackstone Hotel 
Pharmacy 

Atlantic Hotel Pharmacy 

Davis Dry Goods Co. 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 
Bonwit Teller & Co 
The House of Wenger 

BOSTON, MASS. 

Cc. Crawford Hollidge 

R. H. Stearns Company 

Melvin & Badger 

E. T. Slattery Company 


CLEVELAND, OHIO 
The Halle Bros. Co, 
ST. LOUIS, MO. 
The Famous—Barr Co. 
Stix Baer & Fuller Dry 
Goods Co. 
Jefferson Hotel Drug 
Store Co. 
LOS ANGELES, CALIF. 
J. W. Robinson Co. 
KANSAS CITY, MO. 
Emery-Bird-Thayer Dry 
Goods Co. 
Fred Harvey’s Union Sta- 
tion Drug Store 
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF. 
H. Liebes & Co. 


ALLENTOWN, PA.—H. Leh &Co. 


ASBURY PARK, N. J. 
Steinbach Co. 
ATLANTA, GA. 
Franklin & Cox, Inc. 
BEVERLY HILLS, CALIF. 
Beverly Hills Pharmacy 
BINGHAMTON, N. Y. 


Hills, McLean & Haskins,Ine, 


BIRMINGHAM, ALA. 


Augusta Friedman Shop,Inc. 


BLOOMINGTON, ILL. 

Edw. C. Biasi 
CHARLESTON, W. VA. 

Scott Bros. 
CHATTANOOGA, TENN. 

D. B. Loveman Co. 
CINCINNATI, O. 

The Lawton Co. 
COLUMBIA, S. C. 

Bon Marché 
COLUMBUS, OHIO 

The Morehouse-Martens Co, 
DAVENPORT, IA. 

Carl E. Schlegel Drug 

Stores 

DAYTON, OHIO 

The Rike-Kumler Co. 
DES MOINES, IA. 

Harris-Emery Co. 
FORT SMITH, ARK. 

Boston Store Dry Gds, Co. 
FORT WAYNE, IND. 

Wolf & Dessauer Co. 
FORT WORTH, TEX. 

Schermerhorn Co. 
HARTFORD, CONN. 

Albert Steiger, Inc. 
HOT SPRINGS. ARK. 

Colonial Drug Store 
HUNTINGTON, W. VA. 

Fountain Drug Co. 
JACKSONVILLE, FLA. 

Cohen Brothers 
JOHNSTOWN, PA. 

Purity Drug Co. 

Shaffer-Davis Co. 
JOPLIN, MO. 


‘ arfumeut Distllateup’ 
Sowell a 


iE et DAN ig 
of OE ene NBS) 





becoming common. Everyone would /ike ie =a ie Aw e< 
to have these scents—only a fortunate few re) [3 JNW > : AG 2 
may have them. Only in the most exclusive ; ey : 
shops in America will they be found. A few ; OIE: 


of those specially selected are listed below. 
Or madame may write to us and we will refer 
her to one who sells LUBIN. 


129 











SR ee a ree > 
Ht} if Tele jie 
PO V ORES 4 


*, 


















a ra : 
SAAVil see 
* fous itt ae 
Zc 





KNOXVILLE, TENN. 

S. H. George and Sons 
LITTLE ROCK, ARK. 

Bruce Ellis 
MACON, GA.—Person’s, Inc. 
MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 

L. S. Donaldson Co. 
MUSKOGEE, OKLA. 

Durnil Dry Goods Co, 
NEWARK, N. J. 

Anchor Drug Co. 

NEW ORLEANS, LA. 

D. H. Holmes Co., Ltd. 
OAKLAND, CALIF. 

H. C. Capwell Co. 
OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLA. 

Kerr Dry Goods Co. 

Roach, the Druggist 
OMAHA, NEB. 

Burgess Nash Company 
PASADENA, CALIF. 
Crown Drug Co. 
PINE BLUFF, ARK. 
Donathan’s Drug Store 
PORTLAND, ME. 
Porteous Mitchell & 
Braun Co. 
RICHMOND, VA. 
Miller & Rhoades, Inc. 
ROCK ISLAND, ILL. 

Carl E. Schlegel Drug Stores 
SACRAMENTO, CALIF. 

Weinstock, Lubin & Co.,Inc. 
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 

Auerbach Company 
SAN ANTONIO,TEX.—Wolff & MarxCo. 
SAN BERNARDINO, CALIF. 

Central Drug Store 
SAN DIEGO, CALIF. 

The Marston Co. 

SANTA ANA, CALIF. 

White Cross Drug Co. 

SANTA BARBARA, CALIF.—Diehls 
SAVANNAH, GA. 

Solomons Company 
SPRINGFIELD, ILL.—A. L. Crawford 
TERRE HAUTE, IND. : 

Root Dry Goods Co. 

TOLEDO, OHIO 

La Salle and Koch Company 
TOPEKA, KAN.—The Crosby Bros. Co. 
WICHITA, KAN.—Tilford Drug Co. 
CORSICANA, TEXAS 

Penland Drug Company, Incorporated 


THE CHANDON COMPANY, 509 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTORS FOR THE UNITED STATES 








Be aw 


hs an rlas 72 0c 
xn lm ire ae 





fr 


130 





Tre-Jur’s 
Treasure chest of compacts 
designed to fill every need! 


© Which will be Yours ? 


THE “TRIPLE” 
A compact that combines powder, rouge 
and lip-stick in one delightful little case. 
Atatouch—the famous “‘sliding drawer” 
reveals lip-stick—and rouge. Price, $1.25. 


“THE PURSE-SIZE TWIN” 
Powder and Rouge ingeniously presented 
in a little case that seuggles comfortably into 
the smallest purse. Priced at $1. 


THE “THINEST”’ 
A compact of handy circumference with 
no more depth than a seaside vamp. Yet it 
yields an ample supply of powder and 
contains a full-sized puff. Price, $1. 


THE “PETITE SINGLE” 


A generous compact and refill. The case 
isof gun-metaland inconspicuously beau- 
tiful. With extra refill, the Petite costs $1. 


Att Tre-Jur Compacts contain a quality of pow- 
der and cosmetic that will delight the most deli- 
cate skin. They are scented with Joli-Memoire— 
a perfume that is singularly alluring! 
Sold everywhere in your own shade of powder and rouge. Or 
by mail from us on receipt of price. Refills always available. 


THE HOUSE OF TRE-JUR, 19 WEST 18th ST., NEW YORK 


r2E-JU 


ee ee 






















THE 


VOGUE 


IMPORTANCE OF BEAUTY 


(Continued from page 94) 


After the shampoo, the hair is clean. 
In addition, it has been nourished and 
stimulated by the work of the night 
before. Nightly care will greatly aid 
in keeping it in a healthy condition. 
This consists principally of manipula- 
tion for five minutes before bedtime. 
This massage should be done with the 
tips of the fingers or, even better, 
with the palms of the hands, moving 
the scalp up and down and backwards 
and forwards. Do not rub the scalp, 
for that tends to break off the hair. 
The head should be held forward over 
the lap, as that position induces in- 
creased circulation. If the fingers are 
put in hot water before being applied 
to the scalp and then put in cold water 
and applied again, the slight shock 
given the scalp by the extremes in 
temperature is stimulating to the cir- 
culation. 

Such manipulation should then be 
followed by brushing, unless the hair 
is thin and falling out. The normal 
scalp, properly cleansed, nourished, 
massaged the night before the shampoo, 
and massaged nightly, will remain in 
a healthy condition. But, in addition, 
the dry and irritated scalp, a dandruff 
condition, and dry or oily hair, should 
be treated with a special corrective 
tonic or salves two or three times a 
week for the best results. 


CORRECTING OILINESS 


Some hair is more prone to oiliness 
than others. Such hair, while appar- 
ently in good condition otherwise, is 
inclined to become stringy and slick 
looking instead of fluffy and light. 
The tonic previously mentioned or a 
salve rubbed very sparingly into the 
scalp with the finger-tips (directions 
come with the jar), will correct this 
tendency, and the quality of the hair 
will be greatly improved. It will also 
prevent the evils that are often visited 
upon the hair that is inclined to be 
excessively oily. A very excellent bal- 
sam ointment is the recent offering of a 
well-known New York specialist for 
this very condition. She recommends 
that the scalp be briskly rubbed every 
day and the ointment applied two or 
three times a week. Improvement will 
be very quickly noted, and, if the hair 
has been falling out, any such tend- 
ency will be checked. The oily scalp 
was discussed in detail on page 74 of 
August 1 Vogue. 


DRY SCALPS 


Sometimes, and this is a more serious 
condition, the scalp is dry, but the 
hair is oily and falling out. When 
these conditions exist one must take 
care to use a tonic that will make the 
hair drier and not at the same time 
make the scalp drier. A specialist who 
for years has had a private and exclu- 


sive clientele and given her tonics only > 


to it, has recently put such a lotion on 
the market. The secret of its success 
lies in the fact that it is free from 
alcohol and consequently dries the hair 
without irritating the scalp. 

If the hair seems constitutionally too 
dry, but otherwise in good condition, a 
hair and scalp cerate will be found 
most satisfactory. It is rubbed well 
into the scalp two or three times a 
week. Such a cerate is a preventive 
measure against dandruff, irritation of 


the scalp, and falling hair, all of which 
may easily result from a dry condition 
that is allowed to persist. This treat- 
ment was discussed in detail on page 
72 of July 15 Vogue. 

If there is excessive dandruff and 
irritation of the scalp, two very excel- 
lent preparations may be had to correct 
these conditions. One is a lotion, the 
other a salve. They are both highly 
efficient and give immediate temporary 
relief. The lotion is perhaps better for 


-use where the hair is inclined to be 


oily and the salve if the hair is dry. 
Either should be used two or three 
times a week. 


DELICATE HAIR 


When the hair is thin, fine, and what 
is generally known as weak, it is apt 
to be the victim of many hair evils. 
Such hair is like a delicate child. It 
must be protected and strengthened. 
It must be cleansed, but not too vigour- 
ously or too often. It must be care. 
fully brushed with a soft brush, never 
vigorously. Any of the above tonics 
or salves that it needs should be rubbed 
down the hair and on the ends, as 
well as into the scalp. They will 
nourish the roots if they are only 
rubbed in at the scalp, but they will 
take quicker effect if they are given to 
the hair length, as well. 

Delicate hair should have plenty of 
sunlight and air. Strong sunlight, hovw- 
ever, should be avoided,-for it acts as 
a bleach. Tight hats are to be avoided 
as interfering with the circulation of 
the scalp and therefore augmenting 
dandruff. In general, hats should be 
worn as little as possible. At night, 
thin, fine hair should be left. loose un- 
less it is very long. If it tangles easily 
it should be braided in two braids at 
the sides. Such braiding leaves the 
back of the head bare and open to the 
air and is highly beneficial to that ver 
vital part of the scalp which is usually 
covered up. 


A REMEDY TOR BALDNESS 


The growth of hair can be stimv- 
lated, and even an increase in the 
number of hairs on the head can be 
accomplished, by a new preparation 
that was first perfected for the benefit 
of bald-headed men. Hair has actuall; 
been brought back to life on such 
heads by its use. It makes its appear- 
ance in the form of a delicate fuzz 
over the formerly bare surface. Users 
of this preparation are most enthv- 
siastic over its properties. Also, the 
simple, homely vaseline will often 
cause hair to grow where no hair gre\ 
before. 

When the hair has become broken 
or split at the ends, such ends should 
be siriged or trimmed, preferably by a 
hairdresser. When the hair is too thick, 
it should be thinned out by a profes 
sional, as he will thin it naturally, and 
there will be no perceptible cut patches 
to be coped with. All the hair should 
be trimmed twice a year if it grows 
fast, and perhaps every eight montls 
when the growth is slow. Such cuttin’ 
is as beneficial as pruning is to a tree 


Note—U pon receipt of a self-addressti 

stamped envelope, Vogue will be gla 

to give the names and prices of prep- 

arations and advice on _ individu 
problems 











Lich 
tion 
eat- 
age 


and 
cel- 
rect 
the 
zhily 
rary 
for 
. be 
dry, 
hree 


yhat 
apt 
vils, 
It 
ned, 
urs 
are- 
ever 
nics 
bed 
, as 
will 
only 
will 
n to 


y of 
ow- 
S as 
ided 
1 of 
ting 
l be 


ight, 


sily 
S at 
th 
the 
very 
tally 


imu- 


the 
» be 
tion 
nefit 
rally 
suc 
year 
fuzz 


Tsers ie 
thu- 
the & 


often 
Tell 


oken 
ould 
by a 
hick 
ofes- 

and 
ches 
ould 
rows 


mnths 


ttin’ 
tree 


see 


brep- 
dual 


September 15 




















CWhiting 


“THE T WRITING PAPER 
TH E” 


FINES 
AT CAN BE MAD 


~Cook- Fine S tationery 



































Something new in Stationery 


The new Hand Loom Handy Pack 
is the latest Whiting Cook inno- 
vation. This ingenious package 
holds the envelopes in the cover 
until the last one is used and keeps 
the envelopes and paper conve- 
niently separated. It is in fact a six- 


ty sheet box of paper and a box of 
soenvelopes in one handy package. 

Ideal for your own use and a 
back-to-school gift which en- 
courages writing home. If your 
stationer does not have it write 
direct to us and mention his name, 


Whiting anel Cook ine. 


HOLYOKE, MASS. 
























LARARAM ER A | 

















Sh tl Fal Fah tah ah ak dake Gah: ok) Fake dah dof 











that creates 





the ultimate charm 


: if 


rere 
+ 
‘Bobbed Hair Net * 







‘Bobbed Hair 
Beauty 


& 
oe ee 
-e 








$ 


= FJashionette # 


ee 
THE HAIR NET DISTINCTIVE et 
Designed by Expert Coiffeurs 


At all the “Best Shops Z 


Fashioned for Enduring Wear 


Glovial : PS Quality 
Sam sta gs NewYork 


, 
, 
“ 


ee ee ee 




















SS QMQG "™""__.®*="BmFqHdFdHAHHAW WWW MXAGG 


A white linen tea-cloth and 4 
napkins have rose, green, gold, 
or blue hemstitching and em- 
broidery. Cloth, 36 inches 
square; napkins, 14 inches 
square; $8.75 


Note—'T hese articles may 

be purchased through 

Vogue Shopping Service, 

19 West 44th Street. The 

prices include a very small 
service fee 


Ja UK MW"... 


a 


’ r) 


French cretonne with a 

latticed ribbon and flower 

design on a yellow, tan, 

rose, blue, green, or black 

ground is ideal for curtains 

or pillows; 31 inches wide; 
$1.50 a yard 


CHINTZ AND LINEN 


FROM THE SHOPS 


Wha 








CMM MOL OMOD 


Bo 


ee 


Harvey White 





——_ WOQAQAG 


A rose, cream, or blue linen 
tea-cloth, 36 inches square, and 
4 napkins are embroidered in 
contrasting colours; $5.50 


Harlequin cretonne comes in 
blues, greens, yellows, rose, 
orange, and black and white; 
36 inches wide; $1.75 a yard. 
Shaped border to harmonize; 
18 inches wide; $1.20 a yard 





A gay multicoloured cretonne has a yellow, blue, rose, green, 


tan, or bleck background; 


36 inches wide; $1 a yard 





WMT 










wD 






ory Ee EX FT 


> 
> a 


Si MTS Xk OHA 'G 


Ve 











FR 99 FS NTD© 


fe 






gy Fé 


y Bat 


A 


OS 
Ba: 


x 









’ as? 











a 


) 2 






‘Cage 


) ae . 






», Os 


~) 





ee) 
5 


VA 





<y 




















September 15 


‘s 


6) < c 


cm 


» 


Dyes 


D 


¢ 


y 


(c 


SO 


LO 




























































































































































































Cool and smooth with graceful finger tips—these hands can be yours 


If you want shapely beautiful hands 


you cannot neglect the cuticle ~ 


Rend may be ever so careful of 
your hands—wear gloves for your 
housework and gardening, never skip 
your favorite cream or lotion. 


Yet with all this care they simply 
will not look groomed and shapely 
unless you know how to care for 
your cuticle! 


The cuticle is the most delicate 
and the most conspicuous part of the 
hand. When you just carelessly let 
it alone how soon it sticks to the 
nail, and is pulled out into an ugly 
white sheath that cracks and splits 
at the slightest thing. 


The cuticle grows just as fast as 
the nail, the old skin dying as the new 
grows. It is just as necessary to get 
rid of this dead skin and keep the new 
in a soft unbroken rim as to get rid 

of the nail it- 






Canada, 





> Introductory Set—Only 12c 


Fill out this coupon and mail it with 12¢ in 
coin or stamps for the Introductory Set con- 
taining trial sizes of Cutex Cuticle Remover, 
Powder Polish, Liquid Polish, Cuticle Cream 
(Comfort), emery board and orange stick. 


self as it grows out beyond the finger 
tips. This is the reason pushing back 
the cuticle is unsatisfactory, for when 
the old dead skin is left the rim is 
bound to look thick and rough. 


But you cannot safely cut it away, for 
this little rim of skin is so delicate, only 
one-twelfth of an inch above the nail root, 
that the slightest snip of the scissors into 
the new skin makes a little wound. 


HERE is one quick way to remove 

the dead skin which does not damage 
the nail or interfere with the natural growth 
ofthe new skin. This is with Cutex Cuticle 
Remover—an antiseptic liquid that loosens 
the superfluous cuticle and keeps it from 
pulling up too far over the nail. 

It is applied around the base of the nail 
after washing the hands, and shaping the 
nail tip with a Cutex emery board. The 
finger tips are rinsed and then carefully 


MAIL 


THES €CeouUrer- Witn -.2¢ 


wiped. The super- 
fluous cuticle wipes 
away leaving a fresh 
rim of soft skin all 
around the nail. It is 
also the very best 
bleach for the nails 
themselves, removing 
stains and leaving the 
tips snow-white. 





If you have never before tried the Cutex 
manicure you will be delighted with the 
way it transforms the appearance of the 
whole hand. You have a sense of good 
grooming that frees you from self-conscious 
awkwardness in using your hands. 

* * 


Wiirn Curex Cuticre Remover you will want the 
complete Cutex manicure. Cutex sets can be had at 
all drug and department stores in the United States 
and Canada and chemist shops in England for 60c, 
$1.00, $1.50 and $3.00, Each contains two or 
more of the Cutex polishes: Cake or Paste Polish; 
a splendid Powder Polish that gives the loveliest 
shell-like lustre, or Cutex Liquid Polish. 















NortHaM Warren, Dept. Vg 
114 West 17th St., New York 


I enclose 12c in stamps or coin for new Introductory Set con 
enough Cutex for six manicures. 








City 


Name 
Address Northam Warren, 114 West 17th 
St., New York, or if you live in Canada, on 
Dept. Vg, 200 Mountain St., Montreal, (or P. O. box) 




















TODAY 


taining 


















































SRM BO et 


amet 
































ee 


Haviland China 


Illustration directly above shows the design 
in slightly reduced size 


FORMAL garland design in azure, russet and 

forest green further evidences the Haviland 
genius in decorating china. It is only one of many 
charming open stock patterns to be found where 


Haviland China is sold. 


Haviland China (50. Inc. 


11 East 36th Street, New York 








Since 1837 


our china has enjoyed an enviable 
reputation. In purchasing be sure to 
notice carefully the Trade Marks. 


aovilang “Gland, 
Cc. 
France “i 


Unless these Trade Marks appear on 
each piece, you will not be getting the 


Genuine 


Haviland China 


Manufactured at Limoges, France 














Haviland China may be seen in a wide variety of beautiful 
patterns at all first class China or Department Stores. Write 
for name of nearest dealer if you have difficulty locating one. 





















A GUD t 





VOGUTL 


io Y 24 C 


(Continued from page 99) 


A very real difficulty to the business 
woman is that of settling her dress 
to suit unsettled weather. If she starts 
out overdressed for sunshine and the 
day ends in snow (or quite the other 
way), she may find herself uncom- 
fortably clothed All the more then 
should she remember to keep the main 
part of her attire moderately plain. 
Two dresses, which do not call too 
much attention to themselves, good of 
their kind, but of dark coloured ma- 
terial, with different hats, scarfs, belts, 
handkerchiefs, and accessories, are the 
solution of this problem. And _ the 
exhibition of some common-sense in 
shoes and stockings, which may easily 
be chic without being silly, keeps an en- 
semble appropriate to most emergencies. 

A good wardrobe for the business 
girl or woman is a coat and skirt with 
two blouses, one matching the lining 
or trimming of the coat, and the other, 
darker, matching the cloth of the cos- 
tume. It should include a small plain 
hat to go with this. A flower for the 
buttonhole makes a pleasant note of 
colour. A crépe de Chine dres3 which 
may be worn with a scarf or piece of 
fur, with a light-weight cape or crépe 
coat in moderate weather, and with a 
long kasha coat in winter, is an excel- 
lent dependence, and a hat of a slightly 
more elaborate sort may be worn with 
this, since crépe de Chine is seldom 
used for the tailor-made type of dress. 
Great variety is to be found in the 
extras which show the care of taste 
and the charm of originality. Jewel- 
lery to-day lends itself to delightful 
combinations. A simple dress, smart 
enough for the smartest luncheon and 
stout enough not to melt in a shower, 


SEEN ON 


becomes a “toilette” if amber earrings 
and necklace, for example, beige scarf, 
gloves, and stockings, and a hat with 
amber pins are added. And, while the 
wearing of a great deal of jewellery 
is bad taste in an office or shop, the 
careful selection of necklaces, earrings, 
hat-pins, and brooches, in their lovely 
jades, corals, and lapis blues, or of the 
new steel pearls or gold beads, make, 
when in harmony with scarf or trim- 
ming, quite enough ornamentation for 
good taste in business dress. 

To sum up further the dos and don’ts 
for the business girl or woman, she 
should not, even in summer, wear the 
kind of thin dress that shows untidy 
underclothes, crumpled by the heat. She 
should be sure to wear a slip (a double- 
fronted one for choice), such as she 
can get at any department shop, and 
not show even pretty legs plainly when 
the light strikes through her skirts. 
She should not forget that bad weather 
is not unusual and that satin slippers 
with high heels are inappropriate for 
street wear at any time, but unspeak- 
ably idiotic in mud and slush. Low- 
heeled, reasonably thick slippers and 
Oxford ties, or their equivalent, with 
india-rubber added to soles and heels 
(this costs $2.50) are practical and 
sensible for those who do not like to 
wear over-shoes. Of course, for full 
winter, every woman should have ga- 
loshes. Nothingisso bad for the health, 
or so unbecoming to the looks, as the 
effects of wet feet; besides, a woman 
in foolish slippers on a bad day looks 
vulgar. Smart women have smart boots 
for stormy weather, and do not disdain 
heavy stockings when the season calls 
for warmth of clothing. 


THE STAGE 


(Continued from page 120) 


in a broad American revue by P. J. 
McF voy, author: of “The Potters.” 
Debate continues as to the production 
of a “Music Box Revue” this season, 
and Hassard Short announces his own 
“Ritz Revue” at another theatre. There 
will be a “Passing Show,” of course, 
from the Shuberts and a new “Artists 
and Models.” Edward Laurillard will 
bring over another British piece to 
rival “Charlot’s Revue,” and perhaps 
Jack Buchanan will be seen here in 


his present London success, “Toni.” 
Among the other musical joys in pros- 
pect are the two Duncan sisters in 
“Topsy and Eva,” a new “Vanities” 
from Earl Carroll, Fritzie Scheff in 
“The Song Bird,” a new musical 
comedy by Edgar Selwyn, Howard 
Dietz, and Jerome Kern. “The Belle 
of Quakertown”, a musical comedy 
with more than the usual plot, with 
Eddie Buzzell and Helen Ford, and a 
vehicle for Gallagher and Shean. 





“Look before you leap,” may well be whispered to those 
who are choosing their early winter wardrobes. But, often, 
the objection is, “How can one look, if one <3 iioi ©: Paris 
or New York where the newest things appear first?” The 
answer is to be found in the Early Paris Oper ‘igs t:umbc7 

of Vogue, dated October 1, in which «:7'l be set forth a 

wealth of information from Paris 
and detailed accounts of the displa-: of the designers. 
This issue of Vogue will be on the s:cws-stands on Sep- 

tember 25 





..'ci.28, photographs, 


























TL. September 15 








ings 
arf, 
vith 
the 
lery 
the 
ngs, 
vely 


ake, 
im- 


for 





n’ts 
she 
the 
tidy 
She 
ble- 
she 
and 
hen 
rts. 
her 
ers 
for 
ak- 
yW- 
and 
rith 
pels 
und 

to 
full 
oa- 
Ith, 
the 
aan 
oks 
ots 
ain 
ills 


RR ease aN IN 








"i t > 
E j Sesrsestowag eae ii ‘és sisi ‘ ies sak oeeiacaeani ict 2 siesta Bits iseisiss 
i y 


. “Greasure Solid Silver 
: % Beauty that Endures 


HE increasing vogue of “Treasure” Solid Silver in dining 
rooms, on console tables, in halls, on library tables,— 
a wherever good taste expresses itself elegantly — cannot 
| be attributed to honest worth alone. The growing recognition 

ae a : cA few of the other 

of solid silver’s place as an emblem of graceful living is notable. patterns made in 

But the chief reason for ‘‘Treasure” Solid Silver’s great popularity ee ore 
is the supreme artistry and museum-like authenticity with which 
enduring period designs have been moulded into silver beauty. 


STERLING SILVER 925/1000 FINE 


The William and Mary Style is one of the latest designs. Its 
beauty finds its origin far back in the days of our forefathers, 
in the closing years of the seventeenth century. Its authentic 
source assures its correctness and permanent good taste. 





‘Brochure on ‘Request 


ROGERS, LUNT & BOWLEN CO. 
OG 298 FEDERAL STREET OG 
~$2.. Silversmiths ie Creators of “Distinctive Tableware ™” ig" 
: — GREENFIELD \_ MASSACHUSETTS PELE 
The William and Mary Style Chateau Thierry, Cortland 


Ll 











2 eT Reamer 





Racial 


WO i 


ET ET ae iN pA ne ba, 


1 Se RIM O. 


Pet epee ean 3 lahnmcesaRey aty-meesamea ato 


136 

















1001 —A beautiful frock in- 

deed, is this man-tailored 
woman’s dress of Charm-Bloom! 
Lapel and cuffs smartly faced with 
Striking contrasting crepe, and tie 
to match; trimmed with exquisite 
vari-colored braid. Worn open as 
shown or tied neatly at neck. Belt 
on side; and distinctive novel 
button cuff. Navy, Brown, Brick- 
Dust and Cocoa. 34-46. A special 
value. This is* an exceptionally 


smart model at $25 00 










1301 —The beauty of this gar- 


ment will appeal to the most 


discriminating purchaser. A strictly 
tailored straightline woman’s dress 
of Charm-Bloom, fascinating in its 
superb design. Beautiful, effective 
contrasting embroidery on collar, 


sleeves and front, with novelty 
effect sash of contrasting colored 
crepe drawn through front and 
charmingly draped at each side. 


Pufied sleeve of contrasting crepe to match sash. 


Navy, Brick-Dust, Brown and Cocoa. Sizes 34-46, 


more than the actual price $35.00 









A mark of Distinction 





‘Mifadye Claridge 


THE Inocke FOR MADAME 





In the colors of the season: 


You’d expect to pay much 





This label in 
your dress is 
the hallmark 
of Quality 






Richly styled by master designers, these smart tailor- 
made models will please the most critical woman. 
Prices, too, are decidedly moderate making the modes 


doubly attractive. 


Inspect these spendid frocks at the Shop near- 
est to you showing ‘‘Miladye Claridge” dresses. 
Should none be convenient, mail your order direct 
and we will see that you are supplied. 

Also write for our just-issued, authoritative booklet 
heralding the advance styles, and entitled “Modern 
Modes for Madam.” It is most interesting and will be 


forwarded gratis on request. 


Makers of DRESSES 
2264228 °H).37th.St 


New York 























RUMMY) 


<-+ ++ + +444 +e 
MU 





s 
NY 
N 
y 
Ny 
N 
SN 
= 
$s 


4+ ot He H+ +H t+ + 


weg [FA 








VOGUE 


+ ++ ++ die 





—tHVlLlh /473 


t+ + <<< +++ e+ 


Courtesy of E. Weyhe 


MARRIAGE a @ 


HAT modern woman, at one 
time or another, does not 
mourn the days of old when 


knights were bold—only too bold alto- 
gether, if she only knew it—? She 
drives out with her husband for a 
week-end in the country, perhaps, and 
sits dreaming, longing to change the 
beige cord cushions of her limousine 
for a pillion behind a visored knight 
and to replace her caracal coat by a 
cape lined with minever. 

Mental pictures of jousts and tour- 
neys stir our fancies, and tales of com- 
bats fought in defence of the honour 


- of fair ladies arouse heroic dreams. 


But the worm was not absent from 
the Rose of Chivalry when it bloomed 
at its best, and that fact is more than 
hinted in the pages of mediaeval 
manuscripts. Chivalry, indeed, decreed 
a display of exaggerated respect 
towards noblewomen in public, but this 
show of outward honour was pur- 
chased only by a strict adherence to the 
code of behaviour prescribed by men. 
Few women dared to deviate from the 
narrow path of parental or marital 
control, for women and children were 
property in those good old days and 
were bartered by their guardians as 
stocks and bonds are sold on the Stock 
Exchange to-day. 

In the book of the Sieur de la Tour 
Landry, prepared to teach his mother- 
less daughters mediaeval etiquette, 
pointed by parables about as subtle as 
a steel riveter, one reads of a lady who 
dared to scold her husband in public. 
Badinage of a somewhat obscene char- 
acter was bandied about until the hus- 
band, goaded to desperation, knocked 
down his wife, kicked her in the visage, 
and left her for the rest of her life a 
repulsive object with a “croked nose ;” 
the husband, we are given to under- 
stand, receiving the sympathetic sup- 
port of the bystanders. 


FEUDAL FACTS 


But even good behaviour did not 
necessarily ensure the felicity of a 
mediaeval woman’s fate; she was a 
source of income too satisfactory to be 
sacrificed for her own caprice. 'Theo- 
retically, the knight was the defender of 
widows and orphans, but, actually, he 
traded them and their properties in as 
cold-blooded a manner as a modern 
broker, and there were bargains to be 
had in women and children—plus their 
property—, as there are bargains to be 
found in an auction room of to-day. 
The wardship of a rich and beautiful 
girl or of a small heir to a large 
property was a gilt-edged security of 
the most profitable type. 


MEDIAEVAL MODE 


As this evil traffic was brought about 
by the feudal system, a brief outline of 
the plan will serve to show how such a 
state of affairs came to exist without 
any direct economic intent. 

The king or a noble who had more 
land than he needed granted other 
knights certain properties, with the 
agreement that the holder of the fief 
should pay him in a loyalty and in 
dues of various sorts for the land 
turned over to him. The obligations 
passed with the property from heir to 
heir, and, in case the holder died leav- 
ing only minor heirs, the overlord 
automatically became the guardian. 
The right of arranging the remarriage 
of the widow, the management of the 
property, and the matrimonial disposi- 
tion of the orphans became the rightful 
concern of the owner, because he was 
justified in knowing that the next 
holder of the fief would properly meet 
the obligations resting upon it. 


THE ROYAL TIP 


Consequently, when the wardship 
with its closely allied marriage rights 
came into the hands of the king or a 
noble, he was quite at liberty to sell it if 
he chose or to keep it and profit from 
the administration of the land and the 
marriage contract of the heirs. No 
sentimertal delicacy prevented a 
sovereign from exercising these privi- 
leges, either, and wardships consti- 
tuted a popular form of regal tip from 
grateful king to serviceable subject. At 
times, when necessity pressed an extrav- 
agant monarch like Edward III., he 
made a regular business of selling 
wardships to such of his wealthy sub- 
jects as dabbled in the stocks of the 
day, and, in the fourteenth century, 2 
prominent noble, the third Thomas, 
Lord of Berkeley, increased the already 
notable business reputation of his 
family by driving a thriving trade in 
widows and orphans. He bought their 
marriage and wardship rights from 
nobles in financial stress and resold 
the privilege of managing the estate or 
arranging profitable matches. ‘This 
business, be it understood, was not a 
mere corollary to his other affairs, but 
a speculation as sound as the times 
permitted. Thus, in 1330, Thomas 
carried on his business at the one-time 
nunnery at Berkeley, in Gloucestet- 
shire, where he combined the life of 
man of affairs with that of gentleman 
farmer, while the ladies of his family 
kept careful watch over the famous 
dairies which produced the cheese 
known as “double Gloucester,” for 
which the region is still noted. 

(Continued on page 138) 


S 


somecetmoneneeennrenee enero 


B 


\—~s 


it 
yf 


CO Oe emt BORD hee eh OD SS OD 


rr DP 


ae we NT wh UL VTrlUhhUCrCrOlUCUrhrClhUMOlUCUCrrhlUC OO lUmLhwrhlUlUmSULULUC UCU LhOlLUL]!hlUh DU 


wo re weer we ee 


wee o 


al 


— 





September 15 




















Pure 
Thread Silk 
Hosiery for 


*1,00 


Ipswich Hosiery is made for 

Men, Women, and Children 

in styles that range in price 
from 25c to $1.85 





ut 


PSWICH 


IPSWICH MILLS, Ipswich, Mass. 


Lawrence €& Co. 
Sole Selling Agents 


Boston, New York, Chicago, St. Louis, Philadelphia 
San Francisco, London, Eng. 





THE 
REESES 




























It’s hard to believe 
they cost only 
a dollar 


T doesn’t really seem possible that 
stockings as lovely as these can be 
made for a dollar a pair. 


You must see them for yourself. 
Ask for the newest dollar value in 
Ipswich De Luxe hosiery. They're 
made of pure thread silk—in all colors 
—without a particle of fibre or arti- 
ficial silk. Fine lisle gives extra elas- 
ticity to the garter-tops and reinforces 
the heels and toes. 

Their lasting beauty of fit, finish 
and style will give you a new idea of 
the value of an otherwise insignificant 


dollar bill. 


Remember to ask for the new PURE SILK 
Ipswich De Luxe hosiery, At department 
stores and good hosiery shops everywhere, 


| Luxe 


OSIERY 


P PSWICH MILLS, Ipswich, Mass. 
| Please send me a pair of your De Luxe pure silk stockings. 


Color . Iam enclosing a dollar. 




















eat a 


Coe Ee ot 





A LEE INIT aS hn et 


= 


. o> = ld a Se 
FT RRND PS RA RIES 58 ml ty 











138 


Bleach tan 
before it fades to sallowness 


OW res-less the seasons are! We spend weeks anticipating them and 
assembling pretty clothes for them—and the minute they are here, 

we skip on, in anticipation, to the next one. : 
We have hardly got warmed for summer, when we begin to think longing 
thoughts of fall. In the midst of August frolicking, we look forward to the 
formal elegance of winter entertainments. And the minute we begin to do 


Ml that we loathe the tan of our skin and the freckles of our nose and arms! 





Bleach tan before it fades to sallowness. In town, in the new swagger 
frocks of Autumn, the remnants of summer sunburn are as the wilted nose- 
gays of a last night’s dance. For the sake of your skin, begin at once to 
correct the harm that sunburn does. Nourish the skin with delicate oils 
to replace the natural emollients 
which have been parched by 
dust and sun. Stimulate the 
tissues, tone them, firm them, 
to counteract the relaxing effects 
of heat and summertime neglect. 
Elizabeth Arden, with her usual 
thoroughness and skill has de- 
veloped several Treatments and 
Preparations to whiten tke skin, 
to bleach ciscolorations and to 
I:cal roughness and dryness at 
the same time. 

On yor: first early trips to 
town, come.» Llizabeth Arden’s 
Salon for a trectment to refresh 
and purify the skin. The famous 
Apres l’Eté Treatment which 
Miss Arden introduced last sea- 
son, is remembered by many 
enthusiasts, who telephone for 
appointments immediately upon 
y atm arrival. If you cannot come 


To Tone and Soften the Skin 


Venetian Cleansing Cream. Miclts into 
the pores, dissolves and dislodges ali 
impurities. Supplies the natural oils 
dried by exposure. Keeps the skin smooth 
and supple. Use night and morning and 
after exposure. » $2, $3. 

Venetian Ardena Skin Tonic. Gentle 
bleach and astringent. Firms, tones and 
whitens the skin. Use with and after 
Cleansing Cream to keep the skin 

and fine textured. 85c, b, $3.75. 
Venetian Orange Skin Food. Best dee 
tissue builder. nourishes the skin, fil 
out lines and hollows. Excellent after 
sunburn to correct a parched condition 
and erase wrinkles. $1, $1.75, $2.76. 


To Whiten the Skin 


Venetian Anti-Brown Spot Ointmen?:. 
A creamy ointment, to be smoothed on 
the face in a mask. Rejuvenates the 
tissues, stimulates circulation, tones 
refines the skin. But essentially it is a 
bleaching treatment; erases tan and sal- 
fowness, moth tches, liver spots and 
other discolorations. Jar, enough for 12 : 
home treatments, $6. EF; you cannot come to Eliza- 
Venetian Creme de France and Lille beth Arden’s Salon for ex- 
Lotion. A new combination that is ex- pert care of your skin, write de- 
cellent to give a soft, smooth, natural scribing its characteristics and 
bloom to the skin. It removes harsh, dry faults, and Elizabeth 
skin conditions and beautifies exceedingly. Ty hb Jaden 
Creme de France, in tubes, $1.25. Lille will send you her personal advice 
Lotion—Special Rachael shade, $1.50, $2.50. Sor its treatment with her booklet, 
“*The Quest of the — 


Venetian Waterproof Cream. A finish- me ; 
ing cream that water will not affect, a outlining the care of the skin. 
ae _ ae = TE mg Elizabeth Arden has just pro- 
roughness and chapping. Makes the hands duced her famous Exercises fer 
soft and white for Mah-Jong. Gives the Health and Beauty in the form 
face, neck and arms a superb finish for of records. If you wish to 
a. $3. ia normalize your weight, correct 
enetian Poudre usion. An ex- pressi nsti- 
See, Geeetey mounted a = pon Re ‘cominas and che 
sage at naga wag 7 Be ge et day faults, write for booklet describ- 


or evening use. Three lovely tints: A 
Sion, Rachael and White. $3. ing these records and their won- 
dirful benefits. 


Postage paid on Mail Orders exceeding $10 


ELIZABETH ARDEN 


673-B FIFTH AVENUE. NEW YORK 


London, 25 Old Bond Street Paris, 2 rue de la Paix 
Soe, 192 Boylston Street Detroit, 318 Book Building 
San Francisco, 233 Grant Ave. Washington, 1147 Connecticut Ave. 


Arden Venetian Preparations are also on sale at 
more than 600 smart shops in the United States 


to the Salon, you can achieve 
most gratifying results by using 
at home these Preparations fcr 
whitening and toning the skin. 




















VOGUE 


MARRIAGE 42 & MEDIAEVAL MODE 


(Continued from page 136) 


Occasionally, the canny Thomas 
erred in judgment, as when he pur- 
chased from the king for one hundred 
marks (about six hundred and seventy 
pounds) the wardship of the son and 
heir of John de la Ware. But the titie 
proved defective, and John de la Ware 
returned alive and well—probably 
from a foreign war or crusade—and, 
presumably, considerably irritated at 
hearing the news of his premature 
decease. 

A few years earlier in Edward’s 
reign, a similar incident had occurred. 
The Lord of Berkeley married his 
sister Isabel to Robert Lord Clifford, 
junior. Shortly afterwards, the elder 
Clifford died, and Berkeley, believing 
the son to be under age, purchased the 
marriage from the king for five hun- 
dred pounds. Further examination, 
however, revealed the fact that the 
groom was of full age; and four years 
of arduous effort passed before the 
money could be extracted from the 
royal exchequer; governments were 
not so different in those days, after all. 


THE BITTER BIT 


Before the four years were over, 
Berkeley doubtless regretted the gener- 
ous manner in which he had conducted 
the marriage. It had been celebrated 
in great style, the little bride appearing 
in a gown of cloth of “bruni scarletti” 
and a cape elaborately trimmed with 
fur and lined with miniver. In her 
outfit was a handsome saddle imported 
from London at the princely cost of 
five pounds. 

The marriage apparel of a tiny groom 
of the period is described as being of 
“scarlett and sattin” with a silver 
girdle, while his knights wore fine 
cloth of ray trimmed with miniver, 
and the esquires wore cloaks of less 
costly cloth bordered with coarser fur. 

The custom of marrying off children 
at a very tender age was practised 
sometimes under the wardship system; 
sometimes in an effort to avoid a pos- 
sible wardship. The result, however, 
was much the same for children who 
were married at five or seven or eight 
years. As a rule, arrangements were 
made for their separate maintenance 
until they had reached the age of 
maturity—eleven years for the little 
bride and fourteen for the groom. 
There are, however, cases on record 
where the young husband was a father 
before reaching the age of fourteen. 
In the Berkeley family alone, between 
1288 and 1500, five marriages are on 
record in which ten of the contracting 
parties averaged less than eleven years. 

The famous fifteenth-century Paston 
letters illustrate further, in the life of 
Stephen Scrope, the evils of the ward- 
ship system. One Sir John Fastolf, a 
wealthy nobleman, married a widow 
with one son, Stephen Scrope, then ten 
or twelve years of age. Automatically, 
the property to which Scrope was heir 
fell under the control of his stepfather, 
who disgracefully mismanaged it and 
finally sold it to Chief-Justice Gas- 
coigne for five hundred marks. Gas- 
coigne held the wardship for three 
years, intending to marry Scrope to one 
of his daughters, but the members of 


Scrope’s family, who had remained in- 
different to the ill-treatment of the 
helpless little boy, rebelled at the thought 
of a match so degrading to the family 
honour, and their sentiment forced Fas- 
‘tolf to buy back the wardship. “He 
bought and sold me as a beast, against 
all right and law,” writes Scrope, who 
claimed that, through his sufferings at 
the time of his minority, he had be- 
come permanently disfigured. 

The miseries of his own childhood, 
followed by a disadvantageous marriage 
and virtual financial ruin, did not pre- 
vent Scrope at a later period from dis- 
posing of his own little girl as follows: 
“.. . for very need,” he writes, “I was 
fain to sell a little daughter I have 
for much less than I should have done 
by possibility.” His own experience 
had hardened him, and any sympathetic 
memory of his own bitter life, which 
he may have retained, failed to halt 
him in the business of disposing of his 
own child in a mercenary manner to 
some convenient knight. As far as the 
emotional aspect of the matter went, 
it might, apparently, as well have been 
a little horse or a little farm which he 
was selling, and his main distress was 
occasioned by being compelled by his 
unfortunate circumstances to make so 
bad a bargain. His actions speak more 
loudly against him than his own words 
speak for him when he complains bit- 
terly of being “forced to the same evil 
bargaining in flesh and blood.” 

Once again in the life of Scrope, we 
see a matrimonial tragedy which was 
rehearsed, but, fortunately, never en- 
acted. At the age of almost fifty, dis- 
figured as he was, Scrope asked the 
hand of the twenty-year-old Elizabeth 
Paston. The offer was seriously con- 
sidered by her relatives, one of whom 
wrote that Elizabeth was “. . . . never 
so willing to none as she is to him, if 
it so be that his land stand clear.” 
Mercenary, indeed, that seems in a 
girl of twenty, until we discover that 
she had been shut up in her room for 
weeks, forbidden communication even 
with the servants, beaten incessantly, 
and quoted—doubtless—erroneously. 
Fortunately, her relatives concluded 
that they could make a more advan- 
tageous match for her elsewhere and 
so spared her the humiliation of that 
marriage. 


IN DICKENS’S TIME 


These are but a few examples of an 
aspect of feudal life of which we often 
lose sight in the glamour of its more 
poetic side. And it is an aspect which 
did not give way before the Renais- 
sance or become obsolete with nine- 
teenth-century enlightenment, for we 
find a modification of the system in 
the Court of Chancery which Charles 
Dickens so determinedly combated in 
Bleak House. 

Traces of the system, of course, sur- 
vive here and there, but, in America, 
its venom is so well hidden under the 
very obvious advantages of modern 
life that wise woman confines her 
romantic aspirations to the futile wish 
that the feudal system of public polite- 
ness might be established in the sub- 
way, at least. Cc. W.L 





Now that one knows the dark history of marriage 4 la 

mediaeval mode, one will appreciate the camaraderie of 

marriage a la modernity as told in Vogue’s Book of Eti- 
quette ($4, postage prepaid) 








oT 





ss 


September 15 








139 








= 


Garters button on. 
Launders as easily 


as your lingerie. 


Maun 


next to the | 


Kin 





iT 


y | : XQ 


“What shall I wear with it?”? 


Anything—OR the Bromley 
Panty-Brassiere which buttons 
onto the Snuggleband at front, 
back and sides. The Panty- 
Brassiere: differs from other 
glove silk combination under- 
garments by its amazing fit. 
It takes the place of a vest and 
does the work of a brassiere 
and step-in. Sold by waist 
measure; sizes 28 to 40. White 
or pink, $12. Try on a Panty- 
Brassiere at the same time you 
try on a Snuggleband 





“NO HOOKS ~NO EYES~NO EBLASTIC~NO BONE 


PB) OFT flattering Liberty satin, a girdle of loveli- 


ness that accomplishes everything the woman of 
today asks of a corset without any of the usual 
clumsy and inconvenient aids. 


The Snuggleband is so light that no woman will 
ever hasten to take it off at the end of the day. 
It gently molds and supports the figure, constantly 
reminding it to be beautiful in any posture. 


The Snuggleband is not only for the young and 
slender—larger women, too, want a flexible foun- 
dation for their clothes, as they realize that it is the 
tight corset as well as the tight dress that calls at- 
tention to their size. Larger women can wear the 


Snuggleband—adjusting it to the increasing grace. 


TRADE MARK. PATENT IN PROCESS 


of their figures simply by moving the buttons. 


_To adjust the Snuggleband, wrap it around the 


figure, buttoning as you go. It stays where you 
put it—it has no tendency to slip up or down. 


The Snuggleband 1s a triumph as a washable gar- 
ment—merely unbutton the garters—the satin 
washes and drys quickly. Colors are white or pink; 
waist measures 28 to 40; price $12 


Should you not find the Snuggleband and its run- 
ning mate, the Panty-Brassiere, at your favorite 
shop, we will be pleased to advise you where they 
are on display at a shop convenient to you. 


BROMLEY SHEPARD CO. INC. 
35 Patce Sr., Lower, Mass. ~ 





tS) 
s 











eI 






























“ 


¢ «+ anda trunk that opens 
with doors—a genuine Winship!” 



























D O OR S! No so halves to push 

back and forth as in the 
old-style center-opening wardrobe! The Winship 
opens with freely swinging doors that clear the 
floor. It never tips Over, never taxes one’s 
strength to use, never scrapes the floor or hurts the 
rugs; stands square in a corner, out of the way, 
whether open or shut. Its matchless convenience is 
even more distinctive than its beauty and strength. 


Sold in New York at Brooks Bros. and B. Altman 
& Co. exclusively; elsewhere by one dealer in each 
city-write for local address. Descriptive literature 
on request. W.W. Winship & Sons Co. Inc., 
801 Winship Bldg., Utica, N. Y. Makers of fine 
luggage since 1883. 


WINSHIP 


The Trunk with Daors 






















N 
N 


Alinari 


<4 
IAN NAQUK SN, WW 


“it 






Varenna, surrounded by its splendid gar- 
dens on the shore of Lake Como, is one 
of the favourite resorts of Italy 


THE WONDERLAND OF ITALY 


F course, it is only a stage set 
(—) for love-stories of past and pres- 

ent; it can’t be real—this part 
of Italy, these sapphire lakes circled 
with mountains of jade and crystal 
under turquoise skies. It is Proser- 
pine’s garden where dreamsare dreamed. 
Young hearts, old loves, fancies ever- 
springing, sunshine, moonlight, per- 
fumed breezes blown from flowers 
under cypress-trees—all this is waiting 
on the Italian lakes at the foot of the 
Alps. Garda is the largest, Orta the 
least invaded by tourists, and Como is, 
perhaps, the most charming. 

It was to Como, therefore, that we 
turned for our first glimpse into the 
Italian wonderland. We arrived after 
less than an hour’s ride from Milan 
and climbed into the big Villa d’Este 
automobile. Other visitors with their 
luggage followed, and soon the car was 
full. On the short ride through the 
town of Como and along the shore road, 
we studied our companions. There was 
the Indian Princess—we later found 
she was the Marchesa Maurigi. She 
looked exquisite in her long clinging 
gown under a black satin cape. There 
were also the Other Americans—an 
undergraduate and his two sisters. We 





d¢UQqQWWWw?''™ 





WUD 


knew they were Americans because they 
seemed as though they momentarily 
expected something to happen. Then, 
there were two very beautiful English- 
women and the Lady from Rome, 
whose husband, we discovered, was a 
member of the Legation. 

Villa d’Este is one of the loveliest 
places on earth—it is just beyond Cer- 
nobbio, a funny little town on one cob- 
blestone street lined with shops and 
houses that lean toward each other in a 
hob-nobbing spirit. The Villa itself, 
now a hotel, at one time sheltered the 
love-affairs of unfortunate Queen Caro- 
line, wife of George IV. of England. 
Farther up the lake, in the Villa Sa- 
porti, Napoleon once stayed on his lake 
tour. 

It is early September—one of the 
best seasons for the lakes—when the 
gay ~social world of Southern Italy, 
which is still too warm, of France, 
and of America comes trooping to this 
earthly paradise. The Milanese have 
already opened their villas on the 
shores. North of Como, there is Villa 
Carlotta with a\collection of Canova’s 
works in its hall, including the famous 
“Cupid and Psyche,” and, across the 

(Continued on page 142) 


AAG 





















This view of the quay at Salo on Lake Garda, largest and 
most majestic of the Italian lakes, only suggests the sunlit 


beauty of the fertile shore 















= 
yy ee 
MOWATT TT cP TT TT PTT OTT OTT Tee eae eer 


y 


1ey 
“ily 
en, 
sh- 
ne. 
sa 


lest 
er- 
ob- 
nd 
na 
elf, 
the 
ro- 
nd. 
Sa- 


ike 


the 
the 
ly, 


his 
ive 
the 
lla 


yUS 
he 





September 15 





nnouncing -~ 


a new decorative oe 


achievement ae 


in silverware 













HERITAGE 
pattern 


Here in Reed & Barton solid silverware is a 
reflection of the French Regency period when 
theartists of a new school vied with each other 
in achieving subtle grace and delicacy of deco- 
tative design. 


What a heritage indeed to come down to your 
children —and your children’s children —a 
complete flatware service in this pattern! 





Reed & Barton silverware, produced at Taun- 
ton, Mass. for one hundred years, represents 
the ‘highest accomplishment in the art of sil- 
versmithing. Whatever Reed & Barton ware 
you select, you may be certain, just as genera- 
tion upon generation before. you have been 
certain, that no higher quality ware could be 
ptoduced, 













Ask your dealer to show you this new pattern. 
Or, if he is not yet exhibiting i it, write us at 
Taunton, mentioning his name. Ask him also 
to show you the many other Reed & Barton 
patterns in solid silver or silverplate. 


REED & BARTON, Taunton, Mass. 


TRADE MAAR 


2B: 


STERLING 






TTT ccc oT ooo nT ( 











Si 






OS 
SZ A sis 








G 


ERITAGE 
patterr 


in Solia Silver 











as TSS SASS 
= 2 
N % P 


SSS SS 


- SS 


SSS SS SS SS 


TAUNTON : MASSACHUSETTS 


100 YEARS or eit VERSMITHING 


SOLID SILVERWARE ~ PLATED SILVERWARE] 





MMT TT 



















ena 





} 
F; 
§ 


pt nisi 
a rate 


J RA ‘ 
¥ ea ae ELT RP ES 


“aig 


8 


Ue Sate nage abe et ES 





142 





Every Woman is a Rainbow 


...and to match the varied hues of her changeable self, 
BABANI suggests these several sympathetic perfumes 


Your perfume must match your radiant self. No woman need ever be a 
monotone. You are born with a rainbow personality—a vivid, shimmer- 
ing thing that is different with.every frock, every occasion, every new con- 
tact that you make. . How shall one perfume always express your rain- 
bow of thoughts? Does one gown always suit you? One coiffure always 
flatter you? Indeed, no! You must havea rainbow of perfumes. . Babani 
has made a rainbow of perfumes for you. Each of his exquisite fragrances is 
supremely good style, and expressive of a definite feeling. 


+ 





+ 


CHYPRE-— the new leading Babani perfume. 
Send for it at once; it is acclaimed the most fashion- 
able in Europe. Be the first of your set to have 
this distinguished perfume. $2.75, $7, $9, $22. 


AMBRE DE DELHI is for moments of mag- 
nificence, for frocks of brocade and formality. 
It is the perfume for the Opera, for other splendid 
gatherings. It is good on fur. $2.75, $7, $9, $12. 


SOUSOUKI is soft, appealing. It is the wist- 
ful fragrance of sachet. It is fitting esrecially 
for softly feminine frocks, for intimate tea par- 
ties, for pretty under-things. $2.75, $6.50, $9, $12. 


AFGHANTI is essentially daring. It is colorful, 
riotous, untamed. It is for frocks of startling 
color, of bold design, for sport clothes of reck- 
less swagger. $2.75, $7, $9, $9.50. 


MING is young, gaily, laughingly young—yet not 
entirely unsophisticated. $2.75, $6.50, $9, $9.50. 


LIGEIA is romantic, imaginative. It matches 
those moments of splendid laziness, when. you 
revel in lovely trailing negligées, joying in beauty 
and ease. $2.75, $7, $9.50, $10. 


s 
< > 


And there are more—a Babani fragrance for every change in the rainbow 
that is You! The several Babani perfumes that you use on your costumes 
will always blend exquisitely about your person, for each Babani fragrance 
is created with the same keynote of beauty and chic. You can buy Babani 
perfumes at the Salons of Elizabeth Arden—at the big Fifth Avenue stores— 
at more than 1,000 smart shops all over the world. 


JABAN] 


If you would like to have Elizabeth Arden’s experienced advice in choosing 
the correct perfumes for your frocks, write describing your costume to Elizabeth 
Arden, 673 Fifth Avenue,New York,and she will send you a personal letter 
containing her suggestions, with a copy of ‘BABANI’S lovely perfume booklet 








DE CAMERON, INC., 681 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK 
EXCLUSIVE AGENTS FOR BABANI IN AMERICA 

















lake, on the promontory of Bellagio— 
a hillside town with flights of shallow 
stone steps for streets—is the ancient 
Villa Serbelloni, set in its tropical 
garden, now an annex of the Grand 
Hotel. Down by the Bellagian lake 
front, near the arcade where brilliant 
scarfs and wooden toys are sold, is a 
restaurant that has the most delicious 
spaghetti in Italy. 

We made the lake trip in a little 
steamer, which chugged noisily along 
over the blue waters. It is an unbe- 
lievably beautiful trip; one can stop 
at any of the towns that take one’s 
fancy and catch another steamer back. 
Along the shores are tiny, white- 
washed villages rising in terraces on 
the mountainside. And stately villas 
gleam white against a background of 
cypress-trees. Many of the pink and 
yellow houses that stand on the lake 
brink, with their foundations in the 
water, have ornate balconies and win- 
dows painted on their walls. We were 
delighted, as the boat passed near 
enough to the shore, to see that one 
such painted balcony with a very life- 
like lady painted on it had deceived 
us into thinking it real. 

For further diversion, one can go 


to Menaggio for golf, or can play, 


tennis on the excellent courts at Villa 
d’Este, or dance in its ballroom, or 
swim in the lake. Swimming there is 
amusing—especially to the onlookers 
parading the terrace, for while we were 
there, only the Americans did it. It 
was usually tea-time when we chose 
to go in, thus creating entertainment 
for the smartly dressed throng who 
watched from the promenade. Four of 
us would come pattering down through 
the spacious lobby clad in swirling 
cloaks over our swimming suits. We 
crossed the terrace and went down the 
landing steps, where the rowboat, with 
a canopy of wooden hoops over it and 
a spring-board on it, was waiting. 
The swarthy oarsman rowed us out to 
the middle of the lake and grinned 
good-naturedly as we dropped our 
cloaks and dove into the water, splash- 
ing and spluttering. 

It was with regrets that we left 
Lake Como, after ten golden days, to 
go west to Lugano. We had to post- 
pone a visit to Garda and Iseo until 
another summer and another trip to 
Italy should give us more time. 

Lake Lugano, almost entirely Swiss, 
seemed rugged and wild after the 
tropical beauty of Como. We stayed 








VOGUE 


THE WONDERLAND OF ITALY 


(Continued from page 140) 


only two days in the town of Lugano 
on the west shore to see Luini’s works, 
The church of Santa Maria degli 
Angioli there has some of his most 
interesting frescoes. He has painted 
the whole scene of the Passion on the 
walls of this church. 

From Lugano, we went west to 
Luino, birthplace of Luini, on Mag- 
giore, and took the lake steamer down 
to Stresa on the west bank. Stresa 
fascinated us, even though it rained 
most of the time we were there. On 
the one clear day we had, we visited 
the enchanting Borromean Islands. [ 
liked Isola Bella best because Napoleon 
stayed there in the old palace of Count 
Borromeo that looks down over ter- 
raced gardens so perfect that they 
seem to be stage sets. For me, Napo- 
leon has cast a glamour over all the 
scenes that he visited. And I was as 
hero-worshipful as the guide himself 
when he pointed out the room where 
Napoleon slept. 

Pallanza, across the lake, is a great 
favourite among resorts, and its gar- 
dens equal those of Stresa in tropical 
luxuriance. We spent the day there 
visiting Villa San Remiggo, which lies 
on the road from Intra to Pallanza. | 
have never seen such glorious gardens 
—long alleys of cypress and boxwood 
dotted with gleaming statues, stair- 
cases that mounted from terrace to 
terrace, glimpses of balustrades and 
fountains, and, everywhere, flowers. 

At Pallanza, we met some Milanese 
friends who had been spending a month 
at Varese, a pleasant playgroun] 
famous for its markets and races, on 
Lake Varese. They told us we should 
go there for one of the best views in 
Italy—to be seen from Madonna del 
Monte behind the town. Six lakes 
lie visible on a clear day. But we had 
no time for Varese, nor for Lake Orta 
to the west of Maggiore. I was sorry 
not to see little Lake Orta because it 
is the most Italian corner of Italy; the 
life of its peasants is utterly untouched 
by outsiders. As Gabriel Faure writes, 
in his delightful book, The [Jtalian 
Lakes, “The lake has preserved that 
quality which is being torn from her 
too famous rivals by civilisation ... 
namely, the calm of nature.” 

It was like waking from a dream to 
leave this garland of Italian lakes be- 
hind us and take the train in Stresa 
station heading toward Genoa—a 
crowded commercial port, where our 
ship rode at anchor in the harbour. 

DOROTHY GOOGINS 





AT ATTENTION! 


ensembles, “shall pass! 


No longer are we outskirting the forthcoming mode, trying 
to scale the wall raised by the French couturiers to protect 
their thoughts, experiments, and results of the extensive cre- 
ative work of launching forth autumn fashions for the stamp 
of smart approval. Rather, with the October 1 issue of Vogue 
(on gay parade by September 25th), we inspect the achieve- 
ments of these great Parisian makers with much of the con- 
centrated survey of a general before an army at attention. 
“That dashing column,” indicating a division of sports 
And straight through into the 
winter mode shall go that regiment of gargonne daytime 
models, as, surely, will that and that and that,” pointing 
a prophetic sceptre at an evening gown, a chic hat, a mar- 
vellous cloak. Ah, it is indeed a sight to thrill even the 
stoical heart of a ccmpaigner of long standing—this open- 
ing of the year 1924 








JE 


1Y 


ano 
rks, 
egli 
nost 
ited 

the 


to 
[ag- 
wn 
resa 





September 15 


ONE OF THE NEWER CREATIONS IN REGENT PEARLS 
No. 112~A Three Strand Necklace -Stone Set, Sterling Silver Safety Clasp. $9.00. 


Style 83—An 18-inch Deé- 
butante Regent Pearl 
Necklace, small pearis 
(in delicate shades of 
creme and rose) run- 
ning through most of 
the strand, a few med- 
ium-sized pearls in 
center —the 14kt. white 
gold, diamond safer 

clasp adding beauty an 

security. Presented in a 
grey velvet case with 
ivory satin lining. $15.00. 

















REG US. PAT. OFF: Cc y, 


The Gift 

OF APPROPRIATENESS 

for WEDDINGS, BIRTHDAYS 
CLUB AWARDS— 

and Every GIFT Occasion 


ANY of the proudest possessors and 
wearers of REGENT PEARLS are 
owners of genuine Orientals as well~ 
a compliment indeed to the marvelous 
resemblance of these favored jewels to 
Nature’s deep sea gems. 


<A ppealingly lovely in: their iridescent charm_- 
featured in all the MODISH necklace and jew- 
eled clasp effects, REGENT PEARLS are. in 
faultless harmony with every frock and function. 


Ye they're invariably MODERATE in price_-un- 
questioningly offered wherever jewelryof QUALITY 
is sold. Address of nearest store, and the Gift 
Booklet: ‘’Tis Pearls for Gifts,’’ sent on request. 





REGENT INDESTRUCTIBLE PEARLS Bear the 
Guarantee of theHouse of Lorsch—[Founded 1869] 
ALBERT LORSCH & COMPANY, Inc. 


35-39 MAIDEN LANE, New York City, N. Y. 
In Canada: P. W. ELLIS & CO., LTD.. TORONTO 






Style 91—This 24-inch Reg- 
ent Pearl Necklace appears 
in a ‘medium-size gradua- 
tion, its iridescent finish 
marvelously reproducing 
the genuine Oriental. 
Featuring a 14kt. white 
gold, diamond safety 
clasp—ready for “‘giving’’ 
in a satin lined jewel case 
of grey velvet. $25.00. 


Style 8s—This 24-inch Regent Pearl Necklace features a medium 
size graduation, its eiiebcokes teflecting chat of the genuine 
pearl. In the prevalent light creme and rose, with a 14kt. white 
gold diamond safety clasp. The gift case is of grey velvet with 
ivory satin lining. $16.50. 











T is not mere coincidence that many of the watch 

movements of the leading manufacturers and im- 
porters are dressed in Wadsworth Cases—have been 
for more than thirty years. 

These makers of watch movements know that your 
satisfaction in the watch you buy depends quite as 
much upon its beauty as upon its accuracy—that you 
want your new watch to be in style as well as on time. 

In Wadsworth Cases they find not only the highest 
artistry in design but an exactness of fit which is es- 
sential to the protection of their movements. 

Thus, when you buy a beautiful watch with a move- 
ment your jeweler will recommend, the probability is 
that the name Wadsworth is on the case. But since this 
name is definite assurance not only of correct design 
but of the finest material and workmanship, it will pay 
you to insist on seeing it. 


THe WapsworTH WatcH Case Company 
Dayton, Ky.,Suburb of Cincinnati, Ohio 


\ Case makers for the leading watch movements 


who 
































ay 




















Pil Y 


SCRA 


LUSTRE-LACE 
LACE CURTAINS 


oe 5 


A 


Ne 


Smartest of all new curtains — 


SCRANTON LUSTRE-LACE IN GOLD AND BLACK 


BEDSPREADS 


hg ee, all 





NTON 


LUSTRE-CASEMENT 
FILET NETS 


a 


iis.” 
\ 


S 


\ 






F YOU saw the original Scranton 

Lustre-Lace Curtain when it was 
presented not many months ago, you 
were probably impressed with its won- 
derful beauty and texture—a texture 
rich in effect as the finest silk. 


Now comes another masterpiece! 
It is Lustre-Lace, in color—a remark- 
able combination of gold and black: 
that offers most unusual possibilities 
for new decorative effects at the win- 
dows of your home. One of the pleas- 
ant designs in this gold and black 
creation—a sunburst pattern—is 
shown. Like all Scranton Lustre-Lace 
Curtains it is sunfast and tubfast and is 
marked by flawlessness of weave. 


Be sure to see these together with the 
other Scranton Lustre fabrics which 
right now are attracting so much at- 
tention in the stores. There are color- 
ful novelty curtains and harmonious 
spreads for your bedroom, and filet 
nets and shadow laces in wide variety 
of graceful designs. These, too, illus- 
trate the skill of Scranton designers 
and weavers, who have been responsi-. 
ble for many of the notable drapery: 
materials of the day. Look for name 
woven in heading of Scranton cur- 
tains. It is a guarantee of excellence. 


Fill out and mail the coupon for 
two interesting booklets, “New 
Outlooks for Every Home” and 
“Scranton Bedspreads,’ which 
illustrate the latest effects for al- 
most every type of window and 
bed. Write to our Service Depart- 
ment about any unusual curtain 
problem you may have. 











THE SCRANTON LACE COMPANY 
Dept. 5-W, Scranton, Pa. 


Outlooks for Every Home” and. “Scranton Bed- 


| | 
| 
: Please send me, without cost, the booklets, “New | 
| spreads,” l 
| 
| | 
| 

! 























re ge a » 





















September 15 





ALL OVER THE WORLD 
THEY USE TT” 


i 4 





The Princess Yedigarova tells about its use in Russia. 
Mrs. Fritz Kreisler finds it invaluable for countless purposes in her 
Viennese home. Rodier~ master creator of fabrics and designs ~ praises it. 
The Princess Rospigliosi uses it for her most precious possession. 


C Read these intensely interesting letters fiom 
enthusiastic Lux users of many nationalities. 


Why a RUSSIAN PRINCESS values it 


“Most of you in America have no conception 
of the intense, penetrating cold of my Russia. 
Winters are long—snow everywhere. We 
must wear woolens else we would suffer. It 
wasn’t always easy to keep these garments 
soft—comfortable. That is why I feel we 
owe a debt of gratitude to your Lux. With 
it all the woolens so important to our 
comfort are kept soft and elastic.” 

PRINCESS MARIA YEDIGAROVA 





’ a 
MRS. FRITZ KREISLER says: 


“You would be surprised at the 
number of uses found for Lux in 
my household—in New York and 
Vienna. It keeps my collection of 
old Bohemian glass sparkling. It is 
used, too, with very satisfactory re- 
sults for the rare pieces of Viennese 
porcelain that an part of my 


collection. MRS. FRITZ KREISLER 











ITALIAN PRINCESS protects her rare lace 


“One of my choicest possessions is my great-grandmother’s 
wedding veil of old Bhodade. It requires the most delicate 
treatment. Of course, there is nothing better than Lux to 
clean it with. I can say after using Lux that it deserves my 


watmest approval. PRINCESS GIAMBATISTTA ROSPIGLIOSI 


RODIER, great French textile designer, says: 


“In our fabrication de tissus three generations often work 
together at their hand looms with the zeal of the true artist. 
So, it is natural, is it not, that when the fabric is finished we 
should still be interested in its preservation. That is why 
it seems so good to us that you have made a soap like Lux 
to preserve the beauty and texture of our white kashas, 
crépellas and tisseclas.” RODIER 







































In sunny DUTCH KITCHENS 


“When I saw Lux here in Amsterdam, I 
couldn’t resist asking what they use it for 
in Holland. ‘Everything’, said the shop- 
keeper, ‘especially for dishes.’”’ 

MARY CARROLTON 

v 

Wherever Lux is used, the reason is always 
the same, all over the world. It is because 
Lux is so pete it won’t injure anything, water 
alone will not harm—won'’t injure fine fab- 
rics—won’t roughen or redden hands. Lever 
Bros. Co., Cambridge, Mass. 





















146 


a 


se mammereat 3g" Maser cnmontongyr asec ae ne 








Avanedo 
COATS 


QPHE most fashionable, 

O the most beautiful, 
and the most exclusive 
Coats in the world! 










The unusual fabric 
haunts you 
with its delicate charm. 


No other Coats 
are of such striking personality, 
because no other Coats 

are fashioned of “Swansdown”. 


At the foremost Stores 
everywhere— 


* Handsome Fashion Book 
will be sent you—on request. 





Ax 
Cusrtom-Mede 








C REG. US, PAT. OFF o 
A Coat Without This Label 
Jo Rat a Swansdown 





ates, 


Created exclusively by 


THE HOU/E OF /WAN/SDOWN 
Hurowitz & Erdrich. 
Q1-3d Eat 22° Street NewYork 


ater 


CANADIAN OFFICE: 
The House of Swansdown of Canada 
310 Spadina Ave., Toronto 





(Right) 


Du 


this silk lampas 
fantasy and 


call 
cha 
ing 


dies watching the 
races; in mauve 


and 


orange and yel- 
low, or dull green 



















Raoul 
fy designed 


ed it “Long- 
mps,” depict- 
gay little la- 


red-violet, or 


and grey 


ss 


Ny 


>»: ’ 
URES OBE 





DO MOMMA MAA 


s 


Z 


Full 
dant 


harvest, this bro- 


cade 


lemon-green 
Chartreuse yellow 
would make an ex- 
cellent dining-room 


wall 


(Right) Through 


the 


mid?’ 
a brocade of mod- 
ern inspiration, ex~- 
quisite little 


ures 


happy balance of 
light and shade 


Like the dream of a small boy 
who has been brought up on 
Kipling and the painted East, 
this richly colourful brocade, 
“The Jungle,” designed by 
Raoul Dufy, has grey ele- 
phants and orange tigers pur- 
suing each other through cur- 
ious tropical foliage over 
a magenta background 


7 Ledéccedeeeehedddcceccddth UP 
jin 
Yi, 


4 


of the abun- 
splendour of 


in tones of 
and 


covering 


“L’A prés- 
> of Lorenzi, 


fig- 


wander in a 


4 
D, 
Z 

A J 
Z 

Z 

pA 

Z 

Z 

Z 

Z 

vA 

g 

% 

g 


F WP, 
OO Lec ccacddadaaaaddaaitcaeeéi “amu 


NEW PRINT- 


ED FRENCH 


MATERIALS 


IMPORTED BY 


. 
NOONAN DANA gin AWD 


WS 


FRAN KL 





Ladd 


ma, 


soe | 


At this time of year, people 
turn from vacationing to redec- 
orating winter houses. There- 
fore, these unusual fabrics will 
be of interest. This design by 
Raoul Dufy—where blue and 
yellow figures gallop on a green 
ground, or orange ones are sil- 
houetted on imperial-purple— 
is in the Directoire manner 





N 


SAAN 


~ 5) ms ¢ 
NS 


WS 


ZY 
VA 


YO suesan Rid 


The decorative 
possibilities of 
sport are exploited 
by Raoul Dufy in 
a printed linen— 
the design in either 
black, green, or red 
showing clearly on 
a white ground 








IG 








we 


(Oo, atest Creation 


| C Royal ; 





September 15 














from the “louse 


cH 
VERO © 


For coolness, daintiness, 
and free body comfort, the 
feminine world greets the 
corset sensation of the season 
a Ribbonette. 


This one-piece, semi-lastic, 
non-lacing model is flexibly Patent applied for 
boned at proper points of 

body supportwand features at the back ven- 
tilating bands of rich satin ribbon or beautiful 
embroidery panels, horizontally placed. 


It is splendidly made of the very best fancy 
material broche, has rustless boning that flexes 
freely with the figure mand the famous non- 
pinching clasp. 


Strong, light, supple, durable, and practical, 
this fashionable new model is particularly 
adaptable for all athletic activities where a cool, 
comfortable corset is desired. Carried every- 
where by all good stores and specialty shops. 


Two qualities: Royal Worcester at $1.50 and 
$2.50 a pair; Bon Ton at $3.50 to $10.00 


e 





pre 


OVCCSECT 


WORCESTER - NEW YORK - CHICAGO ~- SAN FRANCISCO - LONDON 














Cee 


Corsct Com b 













Cfrom a big, happy, sunlit factory 
rises this butterfly of Fashion, the 


dream of a wonderful designer and 
the creation of countless contented 
workersrR ibbonettewrthe season's 
sensation in a warm weather corset. 







Md BES : 





aoe 


arate 
















148 














pate a = felt 
hat and high- crowne: 
Directoire Modes | 











VOGUE 


ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS 


NY reader can obtain from 
Vogue Information Service an- 
swers to questions on social con- 

ventions, customs, entertaining, and 
matters of etiquette, on costume and 
fashion, on household decoration, on 
shops and wholesale houses dealing in 
merchandise of interest to Vogue read- 
ers, and on other subjects that fall 
within the scope of this magazine, by 
conforming to the following regula- 
tions. 


RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS 


(1) The name and address must be 
legibly written or printed at the begin- 
ning or end of every letter. 

(2) In order to answer all inquiries 
promptly, Vogue suggests that as few 
questions as possible be asked in any 
one letter; a reply may be delayed be- 
cause of the totally unrelated questions 
contained in a letter, any one of which 
may require a considerable amount of 
research to answer it adequately. 

(3) Unless especially requested to 
keep a reply confidential, Vogue is priv- 
ileged to publish any inquiry and an- 
swer that it considers of interest to its 
readers. 


Miss A. J.: Can you tell me how 
dinner should be ordered when dining 
in a hotel or restaurant? Should the 
man order for two? Should the girl 
give her order to the waiter or to her 
host? If a chaperon is present, should 
she have charge of the dinner? What 
would you suggest for a simple dinner 
in a restaurant? 

Ans.: The man who is giving the 
dinner always orders, consulting, of 
course, the tastes of his guests. He 


usually glances over the menu and - 


says: “Would you like a thick or clear 
soup or would you rather have hors- 
d’ceuvres?”’ He goes through the other 
courses in the same way, consulting 
first the older woman and then the 
girl. For a simple dinner, the follow- 
ing menu is suggested: 


Soup or Hors-d’CEuvres or 
Clam or Oyster Cocktail 


Squab or Chicken with Hearts of Lettuce 
or Any Suitable Salad 
or 
Fish—Lobster or Any One of the Entrées 


One Vegetable Served as a Course—Cauli- 
flower, Green Beans, Asparagus, or Pease 


Pastry or Any Sweet 
or 
Coffee and Crackers and Cheese 


Mrs. A. E. D.: Will you please tell 
me if it is correct to have one’s name 
stamped at the top of stationery used 
for social correspondence ? 

Ans.: Such writing-paper is too 
businesslike for ordinary correspon- 
dence. It is, however, permissible to 
have the address at the top—either 
in the centre or at the corner—, 
stamped in raised letters in white, 
black, red, dark blue, or neutral shades 
on a pale ground. Plain paper with a 
simple address, monogram, initial, or a 
crest—if one has one—is usually asso- 
ciated with the “stationery” of well- 
bred people. The word, “stationery,” 
is, by the way, a trade term; writing- 
paper or letter-paper is the expression 
employed by the users of it as con- 
trasted to the sellers. 


Miss G. S.: Will you kindly suggest 
a suitable method of expressing ap- 
preciation of the hospitality offered me 
by new acquaintances with whom 
I spent the day at their house in the 
country. Circumstances do not per- 
mit me to return the courtesy in kind. 
Would a gift, such as candlesticks, be 
out of place? 

I should also appreciate information 
as to the arrangement of a simple 
church wedding in New York, where 
the participants are transients. I 
would like especially to know about 


clothes, announcements, and attendants. 

Ans.: The most charming acknowl. 
edgment would be a little note of 
appreciation. You could send a box 
of flowers or a new and interesting 
book, but a real gift, like candle- 
sticks, would appear to be forcing an 
intimacy. 

If you will telephone the church and 
ask to speak to the Rector or his sec- 
retary, he will make an appointment 
to see you and your fiancé and will 
give you the necessary information. 
The church fees are usually paid by 
the bride, but the groom fees the 
clergyman and may give whatever he 
feels he can afford, from five to twenty- 
five dollars. Two witnesses are re- 
quired, but no formal attendants are 
necessary, and you may wear what- 
ever you wish, from white satin and a 
tulle veil to a tailored suit. The an- 
nouncements should go out in the 
name of the bride’s parents or of some 
other older relative and should be 
mailed on the day. of the ceremony. 
The proper form follows 

Mr. and Mrs. Johnston James 
have the honour of 


announcing the marriage of their daughter 
Justine Mary 


to 
Mr. Julian Arthur 
on Tuesday, the twenty-seventh of May 
one thousand nine hundred and twenty-four 
Ot 6 oie oe  Chutch 


Mrs. J. H.: Would you be good 
enough to answer the following ques- 
tions? 

1. When a party of eight goes to 
the theatre after a dinner, how should 
the seating be arranged? 

2. When a woman stops to speak 
to another woman seated at a hotel 
dining-table does the seated woman 
rise ? 

3. When calling on _  friends—a 
widow and her daughter—who are 
visiting another widow and_ her 
daughter, both strangers to the caller, 
how many cards of her own and her 
husband’s should the caller leave? 

4. How should anchovies on toast 
be eaten? Is a fork, only, used? 

5. Isa call necessary after a dinner 
at a bachelor’s house? 

Ans.: 1. Men and women are 
placed alternately at the theatre as 
they are at dinner, though a wise 
hostess wiil not put the same people 
together both at dinner and the play. 
For a party of eight, a woman would 
go first, so as to leave a man in the 
aisle seat. The hostess may sit wher- 
ever she likes. 

2. If the seated woman is appre- 
ciably younger than the one who stops 
to speak to her, she should rise. Any 
men at the table would rise, of course. 

3. The underlying idea is_ that 
women visit women only and men 
visit both men and women. There- 
fore, in this case, it would be correct 
to leave four Mr. and Mrs. cards. 

4. Anchovies on toast should be 
eaten with a fork only. 

5. Since a woman never calls on a 
man, only her husband’s cards would 
be left if he called, but men are not 
punctilious in regard to exchanging 
calls with each other, and the usual 
way of showing appreciation of a 
single man’s civility is to ask him to 
your house in return, 


Mrs. E. Z.: How should I sign 
letters to a man and woman—intimate 
friends of my husband—whom I know 
only slightly? 

Ans.: Whether you know people in- 
timately or not, you never use the 
prefix, “Mrs.”, in signing your name 
to a note to a friend. Sign your letters 
Elizabeth Zimmerman, or, if you wish 
them to come from-both your husband 
and yourself, Elizabeth and Arthur 
Zimmerman. 

(Continued on page 150) 








UE September 15 149 


Ts Chin Lines! 


dants, 
nowl. 
te of 
1 box 
esting 
indle- 
ng an 











1 and 
3 sec- 
‘ment 
| will 
ition. 
d by 
, the 
sr he 
enty-~ 
» re- 
3 are 
rhat- 
nd a 
- an- 

the 
some 
be 
ony. 


























Age shows first in the line of your chin! 


What cruel criticisms are made across the board! What a terrible test you must undergo at Bridge- 


bod at Tea-at Dinner-or at the Theatre! Can you stand those penetrating glances that make you so 

i uncomfortably conscious of the lines and droops of fast-approaching years? : 
ud Assure yourself of approval—let me build up the sagging muscles and remove the ugly lines. My 

sak Scientific Treatment and my Preparations, based upon my wide knowledge of Dermatology and - 
-—- Chemistry, have helped thousands of women. Consult me if possible— 

n if not, write and fill out the Consultation Card at the bottom of page. [Deer ey 

we I can make you look years younger! \ 


“ Get these preparations at your Favorite Shop or order direct from Dorothy Gray. 
DOROTHY GRAY’S RUSSIAN ASTRINGENT CREAM DOROTHY GRAY’S RUSSIAN BLEACH CREAM 
To tighten muscles and loose, crepy skin $3 Prevents and cures freckles, sunburn, $2 


= DOROTHY GRAY’S RUBBER PATTER DOROTHY GRAY’S FLOWER SKIN TONIC 


re For reducing a too fat underchin $2.50 A liquid cooling cleanser for the skin, fine for hot weather, .85— $1.75 






as 
- A thin face can be made plump, 
, A too fat chin can be reduced, 
ke Write fe or My Book Large pores and coarse skin can be made fine, 
f Edition V Eyes can be made bright and the lines around them eradicated, 
A sallow skin can be made shades lighter, 

le It Tells How That droop under the chin can be removed, 
‘< To increase or lose weight. / 
. & Firm muscles indicate youth. They can be yours, 
S 
y Dorothy Gray’s itl ci 
’ Chin Strap mast GF! Z 
‘ Lifts and strengthens the muscles 
‘ enetbesido ye, as well us Sagging muscles must be 5 

under the chin. Made of was 

able kid. $5.50 This cruel droop muurt go! 


| DorothyGray 


FACIAL AE STHETIC ar noon 


T49 Fifth 


CUT OFF HERE ; 
ay ate - 
Double Chin and Superfluous [] my Signe of Slight Droopunder 








U ee Flabbiney and Rolazed Me eaetes Flesh around the Neck. 
DEAR Miss GRAY— 0 Seisitinn Vi Minds. Easel Fase ond Neck with J A Dey nad Hors Shin. 
Will you please send me your book and eget . , 
write to me at once, telling me just what [| Enlarged pores and blackheads [] me oily skin ss ; [] Bleaching tan and freckles 
Simply put a check opposite the conditions for which you wish relief. 


preparations you prescribe to cure the 


conditions that I have checked. Name Address. 























ee aes 


1s new reedo 
in Corsets / 


en moves freely, lightly, with natural un- 
trammeled grace—the perfectly corseted 
woman is as beautiful as she is rare. At ease 
—physically, mentally —in no way is she 
conscious of any slightest restraint. Yet her 
corset is holding her— supporting her as 
naturally and as evenly as Diana’s muscles 
and tissues support her figure—gently mould- 
ing her to the natural silhouette. 

And what is this subtle force that governs the 
feminine figure without restraint? . . . It is 
more than a matter of design and finish— 
a great deal more. The perfect corset of 
today owes its perfection to a perfect fabric 
that adjusts itself naturally to every line 
and curve, to every change in motion and 
posture; a fabric that lets the body 
breathe freely and evenly at all times and 
under all conditions—Kenlastic, the knitted 
elastic. In America’s finest corsets and 
reducing girdles—your guarantee of un- 
varying quality, lasting resiliency and per- 
fection of fit. 


James R. Kenprick Co., Inc. 
Germantown, PHILADELPHIA 205 Sixth Ave., NEW YORK 


asti< 


EG. US. PAT OFF 


=the knitted elastic” 








ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS 


(Continued from page 148) 


Mrs. H. H. H.: I am going to 
Europe and would like to know exactly 
what I shall need on board ship for 
myself and my little girl of eight years 
and if there is any decided boat eti- 
quette. As we are going to France, 
Switzerland, Italy, Germany, Belgium, 
Holland, and England, I would also 
appreciate it if you would tell me what 
kind of clothes I shall need for wear in 
those countries. I expect to stay at 
the larger hotels. 

Ans.: On board ship, it is the cus- 
tom to wear simple clothes of the char- 
acter that one would wear at a country 
club or a country house. One-piece 
dresses and suits of knitted and woollen 
fabrics in neutral, serviceable colours 
are appropriate for visits to cooler 
climes, as well as for shipboard use. 
For warm, semi-tropical climates, 
clothes such as one adopts in the coun- 
try in summer are suitable. Daytime 
on board ship is an informal period, 
and dressing is in accordance with this 
spirit. There are certain occasions, 
such as dances, concerts, and other 
affairs planned for the amusement of 
the passengers, to which one wears eve- 
ning costume. Most people dress for 
dinner, but it is-in much better taste 
to wear only simple, not formal, dinner- 
dresses. Each first-class passenger, 
now, as always, gives $2.50 each to 
the room steward or stewardess, to the 
dining-room steward, to the deck 
steward, and to the lounge steward. The 
tip to the head steward and to one of 
the chefs depends on whether they 
have been of special service to you; if 
not, no tip is necessary. If you are a 
bad sailor and have been taking meals 
in your room, $5 at least should be 
given to the steward (or stewardess ). 
If you have taken your meals on deck, 
the deck steward would be given $5 
and his assistant $2.50. One should 
give the bath steward $2. To any 
steward who takes pains to please, thé 
passenger should show appeciation by 
tipping him generously, as well as by 
thanking him gratefully. If you like 
your bath at a certain hour, you would 
do well to let the bath steward know 
as soon as you arrive on board (unless 
you have a private bath), since the last 
persons to speak draw the inconvenient 
hours—naturally. To many, the daily 
salt bath is the most delightful feature 
of the trip. The water is always won- 
derfully clear, and the towels are 
heated. The following list of clothes 
will serve as an outline of what will be 
needed in the way of wearing apparel. 


A tailored costume for general wear 

One or more costumes of the sports type 
and a top-coat for steamer wear, one 
suited to the season and useful for a 
general utility coat 

Sports or walking shoes 

Woollen or heavy, ribbed stockings 

Small felt hat 

Two crépe de Chine dresses—tan, blue, 
or black—for street wear and travelling 
in warm weather 

A light wrap that can be used for evening 
wear 

A lighter coloured frock for afternoon, in 

case more formal day clothes are required 

At least two dinner-dresses; that is, semi- 
formal frocks 

Suitable hats for all 
three are needed 

Shoes and hose for all occasions 

Accessories—wool or fur scarfs, a sweater, 
hot-water bottle, umbrella, gloves 

A dark silk négligée 

Easily laundered lingerie 

A steamer trunk and week-end case 

also a very 


occasions—at least 


A medium-sized hat-box is 
convenient piece of luggage 


If pleated serge skirts and sailor 
blouses are becoming to your little girl, 


it would be the best costume for her to 
wear on the steamer with a red or blue 
beret. She will also need a warm coat, 
sweaters, and woollen stockings. If the 
blouse-and-skirt costume are objection- 
able, the child could wear one-piece 
dresses of flannel, and, when she 
changes for supper, white crépe de 
Chine frocks. For travelling, she will 
require a light coat, perhaps of covert- 
cloth, one-piece dresses of wash mate- 
rials, either in silk or cotton, as pre- 
ferred. 


Mrs. A. W. S.: As I am in mourning 
for my mother and my health will not 
permit of my wearing deep black in 
hot weather, I should like to be advised 
as to what would be suitable. What 
shall I get for the first change that will 
be appropriate both for business and 
social duties. What entertainment 
may I accept that is permissible at a 
time of mourning ? 

Ans.: In summer, all-white is con- 
sidered as deep a mourning as all-black. 
All-black, of course, is the best for busi- 
ness wear, and, for the first change, it 
will be quite correct for you to wear 
wash fabrics and silks during the hot 
weather. Black and white combined 
and lavender are half-mourning and 
should not be worn for a year. Neither 
among men nor women to-day, how- 
ever, does one find the old-fashioned, 
long-drawn-out mourning that kept one 
in the deepest black and forbade diver- 
sion of any kind. There is no reason 
why you should not go quietly to the 
theatre or concert with a friend or to 
small dinners. If, at the end of six 
months, you wish to lighten your 
mourning, you may be guided by your 
feeling and do so. 


Miss A. E. F.: Is it not more fitting 
to write a note acknowledging an en- 
gagement gift than merely to write 
“Thank you” on a card? Please give 
an example of the kind of note that is 
suitable. 

Ans.: It is never courteous to use 
a card on an occasion of this kind. If 
a person takes the trouble to remem- 
ber you in any way, you, also, should 
take the trouble to write. The follow- 
ing form is suggested for such a note: 


Dear Delicia, 


We liked the little tea-table so much. 
It is exactly the kind we wanted. I. can 
see myself pouring out tea at it every 
afternoon and hoping you will come in to 
see me. 

Yours affectionately, 
Alice 


Miss J. A. H.: Kindly tell me if it 
is always correct to serve the hostess 
first, even if there is an honour guest 
at the luncheon or dinner, as the case 
may be. Just when should canapes be 
served, before the meal or after the 
sweet and before the coffee? 

Ans.: The old idea was to let the 
giver of the feast taste first of the food 
and drink, in order to prove the ab- 
sence of poison, and this custom still 
prevails, to a large extent, but it would 
unquestionably seem more civil to 
serve the chief guest first, which is 
often done. Canapes are served at the 
beginning of the meal, either with 
cocktails in the living-room or as soon 
as the guests aré seated at the table. 
The English serve what is very much 
the same thing, but which they ca!l a 
savoury and serve at the end of the 
meal, just before the coffee—a custom 
that is seldom followed here. 


VOGUE 




















































































nN RRne: 
lalate atte eae eee Te 


noche’ cage 





her to 
r blue 


1 Coat, 
If the 
ction- 
-piece 
1 she 
ye de 
e will 





Dvert- 
mate- 
» pre- 


t will 
; and 
iment 

ata 


con- 
lack, 
busi- 
pe, it 
wear 
> hot 
yined 
and 
ither 
how- 
ned, 
t one 
iver- 
ason 
» the 
rr to 
six 
your 
your 


ting 
en- 
‘Tite &F 
give § 
it is 


use 

If § 
em- 
ould 
Ow- 
ote: 


an 


to 


f it 
tess 
lest 
‘ase 
_ be 
the 
the 
0d 
ab- 
till 
uld 


is 
the 
ith 
on 
ole. 
ich 
la 
the 
om 





September 15 





Fashion’s ‘Rendezvous, sends word 


of today’s “Perfume Mode 





Now Madame may carry with her 
always in her hand-bag, loose Djer- 
Kiss Face Powder—powder so incom- 
parably fine—as safely, as easily, as she 
would a Compact. This new Djer-Kiss 
Luvse Powder Vanity makes it possible. 


151 























PoLo—and the fashionable throng at Cannes 


— (ANNES, 


Poto at CANNES! The King of Spain plays. 
England sends her cleverest horsemen. Royalty at- 
tends—and the smartest of the Parisiennes. Here, in 
Fashion’s rendezvous, may one not-hope to learn the 
approved mode des parfums? 


Indeed, yes—it is this: ‘On me mélange pas les 
parfums.’’ (One never mixes varying perfumes. Rather 
shall all your toiletries be of the same Parisian 
fragrance.) 


So, then, will the fashionable Américaine decree that 
her boudoir be graced by the spécialités Djer- Kiss. 
Her Parfum will be Djer-Kiss, that al'uring French 
odeur created in Paris—in Paris only—by that genius 
des fleurs, Monsieur Kerkoff. That same French Djer- 
Kiss will subtly fragrance her Eau de Toilette, her 
Soap, Sachet, Creams, Compacts and Lip Rouge. 


Will not Madame today seek these many spécialités 
Djer-Kiss at her favorite shop, and through them all 
achieve a true Parisian harmony of the toilette, an 
allure that is French alone ? 






A new Djer-Kiss conceit at the fashion- 
able shops: A chic Vanity Bag in black, 
blue or brown morocco or tan ecrasé 
leather—containing the de-luxe model 
Djyer-Kiss Two-Fold Compact, matte- 
gold finish— Dyer-Kiss Lip Rouge—a 
convenient purse-pocket for your change. 


PARFUM + FACE POWDER - TALC - SOAP - TOILET WATER - VEGETALE - SACHET - ROUGE - CREAMS - LIP ROUGE - BRILLIANTINE 








152 


Unsolicited letters 
from Vauventhusiasts 


“TI have found that Vauv 
is invaluable to me, be- 
cause my skin was so shiny, 
that even constant and 
bothersome powdering 
would not relieve it. I 
have found that Vauv ap- 
plied in the morning 
quickly removes all trace 
of this and my nose and 
face are never shiny, 
throughout the entire day. 

“Vauv is worth ten 
times its cost, at least it is 
to me.” 


MRS. L. C. B., 
Baltimore, Md. 


2 





‘‘For enlarged 
pores’’ 
“Excellent for large pores 
and blackheads. More 
effective than similar 
creams.” 


MISS C. O., 
New Orleans, La. 












e 







“A life-saver’”’ 


“Vauv is a lifesaver. It 
is absorbed in the skin so 
quickly and makes a very 
good base for powder. I 
used it the night of our 
college prom and it lasted 
ail evening.” 
MISS V. B. B., 
Madison, Wis. 
























Use this 


coupon 






Bureau of 
Sn, and Health 
x 


ae 
“OuseKcepine MAC! 





Qorsegonteedeegongeogoetenteotoctectoetonteotonte| 


ym 


steeataetaentaetantansientantaetientiedintiantantententantententantentent - 


‘eMy nose is never shiny 
throughout the entire day 








From the women who have used Vauv to the 
women who have not—in their own words! 


“The only cream I have ever used that elim- 
inates shine on the face. 


“I am perfectly delighted with Vauv. It 
keeps my face from getting shiny even during 
a hard day's work in hot weather.” 


“Tt makes your skin so soft and smooth.” 


“T used it the night of our college prom and 
it lasted all evening.” 


“T use Vauv on my neck and arms to cover 


up freckles and sunburn.” 
“It is a very good base for powder.” 
“T like the sensation it leaves after applying.” 


“It leaves your skin in good condition and 
without the stickiness that most creams do. 


‘Excellent for large pores and blackheads.” 


What need for further comment?—unless to 
tell you why Vauv has this new effectiveness. 
This is the reason: it does not just cover up 
shine, but actually prevents it by absorbing 
excess oil and moisture. It is for this reason, 
too, that you can depend on Vauv not to clog 
the pores in the least, but rather to cleanse and 
reduce them, instead. In every way, Vauv is 
absolutely harmless. 


Try it for yourself! 
Vauv is now on sale at all drug and department stores, 
price soc. Ask for a tube, today! Or, if you would 
prefer, send us 10c (to cover packing and postage) and 
we will mail you at once a sample tube that will last a 
week. Just fill out the coupon below. 


THE VAUV CO. (for Jane Morgan) 
109 Blair Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio 


| PRONOUNCED 
VOVE 





THE VAUV CO. (for Jane Morgan) 

109 Blair Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio 

Please send me at once sample week’s-size tube of 
Vauv. I am enclosing 1oc. 


Name 
Street (or P. O. Box) 
City , 
Your dealer’s name and address 








State 























Dis is i nc ‘esis in ese sc no inp Uriel ial 


VOGUE 





Thousands of years ago, these quarries of Mokkasam yielded 

their stone to the building of the pyramids, which, in return, 

cast upon them a reflected glory that is almost as poignant 
as the spell of the pyramids themselves 


ONE WEEK 


IN CAIRO 


(Continued from page: 126) 


that is lacking in both these Western 
thoroughfares. 

The palace of the Khedive is a 
disappointment—a long, low barracks 
without any outside ornament; how 
the inside looks, we were unable to 
ascertain. But we were told by our 
guide that the Khedive has two hun- 
dred wives housed there; so he prob- 
ably has no money left for the beauti- 
fying of his abode. 

In old Cairo, one is shown some 
remarkable places: old Amr, a mosque 
built in the eighth century, where the 
Khedive comes to worship on the feast 
of Ramadan; two columns brought 
from Mecca between which “honest 
men only are able to pass;” a 
Coptic church built on the spot where 
the Holy Family is said to have. rested 
during its flight to Egypt; and the place 
where Moses was found in the bulrushes. 

The University Mosque is the great 
place of learning. In its courtyard, as 
well as in the interior, there are boys 
and men studying the Koran, swaying 
to and fro. They commit the words to 
memory. The children, all of whom are 
boys, of course, sit on the stone floor in 
the court, about six boys to each 
teacher; the men sit inside, also on the 
floor. It was the feast of Ramadan, 
and not many were in attendance, as 
most of them sleep during the day, 
because, during this period, they must 
fast from four o’clock in the morning 
until seven o’clock at night. For forty 
days, not a drink of water must pass 
their lips; they are not even allowed to 
swallow the saliva from their mouths. 

What the Shari Kamel is to the new 
Cairo, the Muski is to the old, or 
Arabian, quarter of the city on the 
Nile. There, the traveller finds the 
bazaars, those mysterious-looking, 
small, dark cubby-holes full of things 
wonderful beyond dreams. The streets 
in the bazaar section are narrow lanes, 
so narrow that one cab only can pass, 


Peterffy 


To-day, to-morrow, yesterday, in the Egyptian village of 

Margh—centuries pass beneath the eyes of the Sphinx like 

the hours of the day, and one sees here a modern scene 
recalling the shepherds of old 





and, sometimes, the passage will not 
permit that. Most; of these so-called 
streets are covered with a sort of awn- 
ing to protect. the buyer and vendor 
from the hot rays of the sun. Leather 
goods, gold: and silver wares, shoes, 
clothes;,Oriental embroidery, carpets, 
rugs, ityaid’woodwork, ivory carvings— 
rare arid lovely articles are to be found 
in these dingy shops. 

One of our most enjoyable days was 
spent in ancient Memphis and Sakkara, 
whither we went ondonkeys. Theplaces 
are famed for their excavated tombs of 
the Pharaohs, covered with all kinds of 
inscriptions and bearing the figures of 
Ti and Ptahohotep. On the walls is 
wonderful carving, and, in many places, 
the original reds, greens, and browns 
are as distinct as if they had been put 
on yesterday. In the Serapeum, the 
great temple built over the mausoleum 
of Apis, are thirty-two granite sarco- 
phagi, which formerly contained the 
bodies of the sacred bulls. The pyra- 
mid of Sakkara is supposed to be the 

~oldest in existence—at least seven 
thousand years old. It is called the 
step pyramid and consists of six stages. 

The trip to Sakkara, although a very 
hot one, is of unusual interest. First, 
we went by an early train to Bedra- 
shein, where donkeys and donkey boys, 
previously ordered, were awaiting us; 
then, on the swaying backs of the 
animals, we passed through a green, 
fertile country flourishing with sugar- 
cane and cotton. At intervals, we 
passed long lines of camels and their 
drivers in single file, or a picturesque 
Arab on a donkey, under an umbrella, 
or a mud village, or little boys bathing 
in a muddy creek, or women balancing 
heavy burdens on their heads. 

At Memphis—or on the site where 
ancient Memphis used to be—, we saw 
the colossal statue of Rameses IT. lying 
in the midst of a pine grove. 

A. A. WETTER 




































JE 


not 
led 
yn- 
Jor 
her 
€S, 
ts, 


nd 


yS, 


bi cbivtales Se 


Ne RR RS 
Z, tH; 











September 15 



























































The Francis Jordan Junior 
has been especially designed 
just for the hard-to-get-to places 
like the arms, the chin and also 
the ankles. Just remember this, 
the Francis Jordan Junior 
leaves no flabbiness. A few 
minutes a day for a few days 
will show results. The Francis 
Jordan Junior is $5. 


nl 


















I tried every way to reduce . . I have 
always been fat . . . from ten to fifty 
pounds overweight. I dieted... | 


rolled on the floor . . . I used every 
means I knew of—the sweating proc- 
ess, every new method, every new 
device that came out. Nothing seemed 
to do any permanent good. I was still 
fat in spots. 


Finally the great idea came 

After years of experiment the great 
idea developed. The Francis Jordan 
Reducer was perfected. I actually re- 
duced right where I wanted to reduce, 
without dieting, without strenuous ex- 
ercise. My flesh became firm and com- 
pact—the color of my skin became 
rosier and healthier. Not one trace of 
flabbiness remained about me. I looked 
and felt years younger. 


What I did you can do 

My reducer just rolls the fat off. You 
can retain the youthful contour of 
your throat and arms and at the same 
time reduce your hips, back, abdomen, 


Send for my interesting free booklet 
‘How to Reduce Fat Spots." 


This is the way the Francis 
Jordan Reducer works—just as 
if many skilled hands were 
manipulating your flesh— 
breaking up the fatty tissues, 
stimulating the circulation to 
carry the surplus fat off. Only 
it is much more effective than 
any human hands could ever 
be. The secret isthe scientifically 
constructed surface 














thighs and similar places. You use this 
simple device right in your own home. 


The Francis Jordan Reducer 
is a pleasure to use 


The Francis Jordan Reducer is a 
scientifically constructed roller for 
home use. Its patented corrugated sur- 
face kneads the flesh four ways at once 
— breaks up the fatty tissues -—— in- 
creases circulation and the surplus fat 
is carried off through this increased 
circulation. You exercise in the most 
effective way—concentrate all your 
energy on the spot you want to reduce. 


The better stores sell the 
Francis Jordan Reducer 


Franklin Simon in New York, Slattery’s in 
Boston, Halle Bros. in Cleveland, Marshall 
Field in Chicago, John Wanamaker in Phila- 
delphia—leading storesthroughout the United 
States sell the Francis Jordan Reducer and 
the Francis Jordan Junior. If your dealer does 
not carry them, mail us a check and we will 
gladly supply you direct. The Francis Jordan 
Reducer, for the hips, back, thighs, stomach, 
etc., is $12.50. The Francis Jordan Junior for 
the chin, under-arm, ankles, etc., is $5. 







826 Fifth Avenue 
LOS ANGELES 


ELIZABETH ARDEN, London and Paris Representative 


ee | 





alo 









































Che New 
rocks and (oats 


“Reflect the Colors of cAutumn 


NTERESTINGLY smart is the three-piece costume 

illustrated, with its long tunic, contrastingly striped 
skirt and matching coat of fine twill flannel. Not a whit 
less engaging is the simple though exquisitely tailored 
coat of fine imported Camel Hair. 


Tailored Sport Dresses and Costumes, *19°° to $105 
Tailored Coats of Camel Hair, #67 to $150 


We beg to announce the opening of our Newest Shop at 
590 Fifth Avenue (between 47th and 48th Streets), New York City 


New York Chicago 
590 Fifth Ave.—306 Fifth Ave. 222 No. Michigan Ave. 
58 Nassau St. 


Boston Philadelphia 
402 Boylston St. 1701 Chestnut St. 


San Francisco 


218 Post St. 





Jaeger — Specialists in cApparel of Fine Wool 








VOGUE 


SOUTHAMPTON—+z4e PLACE so PLAY 


(Continued from page 74) 


On the beach at Newport, one sees 
few typically sports materials. At South- 
ampton, however, dresses of washable 
striped broadcloth silk are worn. Mrs. 
Dixon Wright wears one of white silk 
with a tiny line of black anda semi- 
cloche hat made of the same material. 
Mrs. Newell Tilton, also, has tailored 
sports dresses of this excellent washable 
material in white striped in different 
vivid colours. All-white costumes are 
also popular. Mrs. Esmond O’Brien 
wears a dress of white wash silk and, 
with it, a light natural coloured straw 
kat, which rolls directly up in front 
with her initials, M.O.B., in black 
letters, slightly to the left in front. 
Mrs. Rutherfurd Stuyvesant wears a 
very lovely and extremely chic white 
costume. It is a white crépe dress, the 
trimming of which is merely hem- 
stitching and fine pleats. With this, 
she wears a small semi-cloche hat of 
white woven straw trimmed by a wide 
grosgrain ribbon band. Mrs. Stuyves- 
ant is one of the most beautifully 
dressed women at Southampton. One 
Sunday morning, she wore an orchid 
coloured chiffon dress, very simply 
made, with a large violet horsehair hat 
in the very flat shape typical of Re- 
boux, trimmed with delightful shades 
of contrasting violet ribbon. Chiffon 
seems the most popular fabric for the 
more formal frocks. 


CHIC SUMMER COSTUMES 


One notices at Southampton that a 
great deal of linen is worn, both of 
the heavy variety and the soft hand- 
kerchief linen. It, unquestionably, can 
give an effect of great freshness. How- 
ever, it musses so easily that, in this 
day of non-crushable fabrics, it does 
not seem an ideal choice for the woman 
who dresses in the morning for the 
entire day and who wishes to look 
soignée at all times. However, one of 
the most enchanting costumes noticed 
at Southampton during the summer 
was of linen. It was worn by Miss 
Ellin Mackay—a frock of white hand- 
kerchief linen with a wide band of 
apricot linen at the bottom of the skirt 
and a design of leaves of this same 
apricot shade that ran up the skirt. 
The elbow-length sleeves were, also, 
edged with a band of the same coloured 
linen. With this, she wore an enormous 
white horsehair hat trimmed with two 
very large white velvet roses—one on 
the right side on the top of the brim 
and the other directly under it, under 
the brim. These two roses had yellows 
orange centres, almost exactly the 
shade of the linen that trimmed her 
dress. Another sheer dress that was 
most attractive was worn by Miss 
Cornelia Livingston; it was of bright 
blue organdie very simply made. With 
it, Miss Livingston wore an enormous 
blue horsehair hat in exactly the same 
blue, trimmed with a ribbon band and 
cockade on the right side. About her 
neck were several ropes of small pearls. 

At Southampton, perhaps owing to 
the real heat of the sun, fewer felt hats 
are seen than either at Newport or at 
Bar Harbor. They are mostly of straw 
and range from ‘inexpensive straws, 
occasional Milan or Bangkok, to horse- 
hair, which is the highest favourite. 
The smartest wraps worn are the knit- 
ted coats previously described, but the 
long practical coats are most often of 
some light wool fabric in white, with 
a fur collar, or even without a fur 
collar. This is undoubtedly because 
white will go with many different col- 
ours. However, bright coats are seen— 
some of plaid and others in various 
gay shades, and even dark colours are 


sometimes selected, but these seem to 
be more for practicality than for chic. 
One sees about an equal number with 
and without fur collars. 

In speaking of the clothes on the 
beach at Southampton, one should 
divide one’s attention equally between 
the dresses and the bathing-suits, since 
itis here that one sees an infinite vari- 
ety of gay and charming swimming 
costumes. The plain black silk bathing- 
suit, so popular for a few years, seems 
practically discarded, except by a few 
of the ultrasmart women who still pre- 
fer it. The most popular type of 
bathing-suit is that consisting of black 
tights covered by some gay slip. These 
overslips are of a great diversity of 
fabrics, made like a simplified and 
vastly abbreviated dress. Many are of 
chintz, some are of thin taffeta or sim- 
ple foulard, often with a design that 
gives the effect of gingham; sometimes 
they are actually of gingham, and, once 
in a great while, of heavy printed chif- 
fon cloth. They are usually in bright 
colours, not light or pastel shades, but 
almost invariably deep, rich tones. 

Then, too, the all-jersey suits, com- 
monly called swimming suits and made 
for the good swimmers, are very popu- 
lar. Miss Cornelia Livingston wears a 
practical one, rather like a man’s, of 
black jersey with green stripes. There 
is just a shade more the effect of a 
skirt to the upper part than is usual 
in the men’s bathing-suits. Beach capes 
are popular. Rubberized silk ones in 
gay colours, like that shown in the 
sketch at the bottom of page 75, are 
both the most worn and by far the 
most serviceable. Large scarfs of wash- 
able silk or satin edged with fringe are 
also seen and are very smart. Tight- 
fitting coloured rubber caps are popular 
with the real swimmers. Bandannas 
are also worn; but the heavy surf and 
the strenuous bathing make practical 
bathing costumes a necessity. The rub- 
ber caps are quickly drawn off by the 
“bobbed-haired bandits” that line the 
beach. A lovely modern Mélisande is 
Miss Rosalie Pillot, who, after she has 
been in the water, takes her cap off 
and lets her beautiful golden hair fall 
like a cloak to her knees. Needless to 
say, she is constantly surrounded by 
admiring young men. 


FROCKS OF THE EVENING 


In the evening, when the costumes 
become more sophisticated, white and 
all shades of pink seem the favourites. 
Very little green is noticed, although 
one hears from Paris that it is smart. 
Also, a good many gowns of different 
shades of blue are seen, although 
neither among the dressmakers nor 
here in New York, this spring, did 
this colour seem to be stressed. A white 
dress with a vivid effect of bright 
colour is worn by Mrs. Marcus 
Daly. It is of white satin embroidered 
in large, gaily coloured flowers made 
of beads. It is very striking and be- 
coming to Mrs. Daly’s brilliant bru- 
nette colouring. She wears the usual 
string of large pearls and one of the 
new wide diamond bracelets. 

Chiffon and marocain or beaded 
dresses are about equally popular. A 
charming gown was worn by Mrs. 
Rutherfurd Stuyvesant, of grey and 
salmon crépe marocain. The body of 
the dress was grey, and a slender in- 
serted line of salmon colour followed 
the inner décolletage of the neck. A 
narrow strtp of this same salmon col- 
our is incorporated in the belt and 
falls, combined with a panel of the grey 
material, from the waist-line on the 

(Continued on page 158) 


























GUE 
AY 


eem to 
or chic, 
er with 


on the 
should 
etween 
Ss, since 
'€ Varis 
mming 
athing-~ 
seems 
a few 
ll pres 
ype of 
E black 
These 
sity of 
d and 
are of 
r sim- 
n that 
etimes 
1, once 
1 chif. 
bright 
s, but 
es. 
com- 
made 
popu- 
ears a 
’s, of 
There 
of a 
usual 
capes 
es in 
1 the 
, are 
r the 
vash- 
e are 
‘ight- 
pular 
nnas 
- and 
ctical 
rub- 
y the 
2 the 
de is 
> has 
> off 
* fall 
3s to 
1 by 


mes 
and 
ites. 
ugh 
lart. 
rent 
ugh 
nor 
did 
hite 
ight 
rcus 
red 
ade 
be- 
ru- 
sual 
the 


ded 
A 


[rs. 


ind 








September 15 











































































Cl 
val 


wit 


bow 


4 





ia] 





The Face Molding treatment is based 
upon exact knowledge of facial anato- 
my and muscle structure, acquired 
through years of scientific experience. 
Thousands of intelligent women have 
found it remarkably effective. You can 
easily give yourself this treatment, by 
following the carefully planned instruc- 
tionscontained in our interesting book- 
let, “Here Dwells Youth.” 


The improvement in your appearance 
after your first Face Molding treat- 
ment will give you some idea of the 
wonders which ten minutes a day will 
work! Your color improves, your face 
is firmer, your skin has 

more life. 


The sagging, heavy, 
drocping muscles that ] 
cause the double chin 
are lifted and their elas- 


ticity restored, The limp muscles of a 
flabby, wrinkled neck are made firm 
and resilient, and youthful contour is 
regained. 


strengthens the mouth 
cornersand counteracts 
the droop of the lips. It 
soothes and stimulates 
the underlying muscles 
tillthe plastic, grateful tissues feel firm, 
alive, resistant, and the mouth looks 
happy and young. 





It tones up relaxed muscles under 
and around the eyes, 
removes puffiness, 
smoothes out the net- 
work of little wrinkles, 
signals of increasing 
age, illness and fatigue. 





Face molding lifts and . 

















oldind Inwelcome ines Aroay 


Face Molding, originated by Primrose House, improves the texture, color and firmness 
of your skin in a perfectly natural manner, because the molding follows and stimulates 
the natural course of the circulation. It reaches the muscles of the face and neck, work- 
ing directly on them to strengthen them,and actually prevents sagging, lines and wrinkles. 


New and lasting beauty results not only from the special molding motion—so radically 
different from massage—but also from the delightful Primrose House Preparations 
which are used for this treatment. 


Knots of tension and 
creases in the brow, 
those little worry lines 
that show in nearly 
every face, and other 
flaws that mar beauty, 
all these are magically removed. 





Each day as you grow older, the mus- 
cles are relaxing. 


Start today to give yourself this con- 
structive, scientific treatment that is 
keeping so many women attractively 
young. 

Primrose House Preparations, for the 
Face Molding treatment and for every 
other need in the care and beautifying 
of the skin, hands and hair, are sold at 
selected stores throughout the country, 
where Face Molding treatment charts 
are free for the asking. 


The new edition of our booklet, “Here Dwells Youth,’’ contains the latest and most improved ways of restoring 
and developing beauty and individuality. Write today for a free copy. The head of our staff of graduate nurses 


will be glad to advise you confidentially by correspondence, without charge. 











morose Ho use 


3EasT52™4s7. NEw YoRK, 


Department A-7 

















156 


They are MORE than Beautiful 
Blankets—such more 








They are ALL Wool—all PURE, NEW, Long-fibre 
Wool—woven and finished to give luxurious 
comfort, extra durability and to charm 
with their lovely decorative colorings. 


KENWOOD woo. BLANKETS 
BEAUTY and COMFORT are WOVEN IN 


have a long, soft, fleecy nap that will not 
wash away. 

They are doubly warm, yet light in weight. 
Pre-shrunk to hold shape and size when 
washed. 

Colors are from the most permanent dyes 
obtainable. 

Each blanket bound across ends with 
lustrous three-inch satin ribbon. 

72 x 84 full bed size; 60x84 for half or 
twin beds. 


There’s a color and pattern to harmonize with the 
decorative motif of any bedroom 
Kenwood Baby Blankets 


The same downy softness as big Kenwoods—the 
same cozy warmth and lovely colorings for the 
Tiny One’s own crib. Each blanket bound all 
around with three-inch lustrous satin ribbon. 
36 x 50 inches and 42 x 60 inches. A gift of 
warm delight for Baby and parents, too. 


Kenwood Bath Robes 


The Kenwood Blanket fabric, with its beautiful 
colorings and luxurious comfort, has been used 
in the creation of bath robes so soft, warm and 
lovely that few women can resist them. Smartly 
designed—of generous size—finished with satin 
ribbon binding and tied with atasselled silken cord. 


For Sale at leading Department Stores, Drygoods Stores and Gift Shops 


A Kenwood Pure Wool Comfort Booklet picturing in 
color Kenwood Blankets, Baby Blankets, Slumber 
Throws and other interesting Pure Wool items, together 
with name of nearest dealer, sent free on request. 


OOf) Dept.V, ALBANY,N.Y. 


Arnprior, Ontario, Can. 


KENWOOD MILLS 
KENWOOD MILLS LTD. 





a 


The Definite Mark of Pure Wool Quality 








CONSIDERING 





VOGUE 


THE CHEQUE 


By JEANNETTE PHILLIPS GIBBS 


Editor’s Note—This article is the 
seventh of a series on legal and 
financial affairs that will be pub- 
lished from time to time in Vogue. 
Questions addressed to Vogue In- 
formation Service, 19 West 44th 
Street, New York City, will be 
answered by the author of the 
article 


: HE first bankers to become fa- 
mous in history were the money- 
changers of Bible times. They 
transacted their business in public 
places, at the market, or in the temples. 
They used tables or benches to count 
and assort their coins. They were, 
therefore, called benchers, or bankers. 
They probably did not take deposits. 
They merely weighed foreign money 
and changed it into local currency. 
Later, in the thirteenth century, in 
Venice, money-changers began to take 
deposits. Then, centuries later, the 
goldsmiths of London adopted the same 
practice. 

Banks more as we know them were 
probably first established in Italy. The 
Bank of England was founded in 1694, 
and the first National Bank of the 
United States was authorized by Con- 
gress in 1781. There had been State 
banks before that time. It is also inter- 
esting to remember that, in the year 
1781 in England, cheques and cheque- 
books were given out for the first time. 
Up to that time, the depositor received 
a note of deposit payable on demand. 


NEGOTIABLE INSTRUMENTS 


The cheque figures so largely in al- 
most all financial transactions that its 
various phases are worthy of a careful 
discussion of their own. If one looked 
in a law book, one would find a cheque 
frequently defined as a negotiable in- 
strument. These two words have a 
formidable sound only until they are 
explained. A negotiable instrument is 
a written contract to pay a certain sum 
of money, at a certain time therein 
specified, to a certain person therein 
named, or to his order, or to bearer. 
The term, negotiable instrument, in- 
cludes bills of exchange, drafts, promis- 
sory notes, bank cheques, and other 
similar documents. Suppose one loans 
one thousand dollars to one’s husband’s 
brother, who has been unfortunate in 
business all his life. He wants the 
transaction to be perfectly business- 
like, so he gives in return a slip of 
paper reading somewhat as follows: 


A year from date I promise to pay to 
Elizabeth Vandeveer on order $1000 
Value Received 
John Vandeveer 


This is a promissory note. Suppose 
it read: 


New York, N. Y. 
National Paper Bank, 
1 Blank Street, 
New York City. 
Pay to the order of Eilzabeth Vandeveer 
$1000. 
John Vandeveer 


This is an order on a bank by a 
person who has a deposit of money in 
that bank. In other words, it is a 
cheque. 

A bill of exchange or a draft is an 
order from one person or business firm 
to pay money to a third person. The 
only way it differs from a bank cheque 
is that to draw a cheque on a bank it is 
absolutely essential to have money on 
deposit in that bank. This is not nec- 
essary when one draws, that is, writes, 
a draft upon a firm. One does not need 
to have funds already in the hands of 





the firm. The bank, or firm, may be 
willing to make the advance if one is 
doing business with it on a large scale. 
Sometimes, drafts are drawn against 
goods delivered. But the average woman 
seldom uses a draft, less often a prom- 
issory note, and probably almost daily 
a cheque. Suppose, then, a cheque for 
one thousand dollars is made payable 
to the order of Mrs. Vandeveer. It is 
signed by her husband. She wishes to 
pay her dressmaker one thousand dol- 
lars. She then writes on the back of 
the cheque, “Pay to the order of Hor- 
tense Armande,” and signs her name. 
This is called endorsing it to Madame 
Armande, who now owns the cheque 
and can cash it. She also can transfer 
it by endorsing it, just as Mrs. Vande- 
veer did in the first place. But suppose 
her husband had made the cheque pay- 
able to bearer. Then, she could have 
given it to Madame Armande without 
any endorsement at all. Madame Ar- 
mande then becomes the owner, or the 
bearer. Such cheques made payable to 
bearer are very unsafe possessions be- 
cause, if they are lost or stolen, the 
finder or the thief can easily obtain the 
money. Of course, the thief, if he is 
caught, has no right to what he stole, 
but suppose he transfers it to another 
person who pays him money for it in 
good faith, not knowing how he ob- 
tained it. Then, a strange situation 
arises. This third person, who is some- 
times: called the innocent holder for 
value, has the title and ownership of 
the paper, and the unfortunate person 
from whom it has been stolen can not 
get possession of it. 

Negotiability, then, is the property 
of passing from hand to hand with or 
without endorsement. To make an in- 
strument negotiable, it must be made 
payable either to order or to bearer. If 
neither of these words appear, it is a 
simple written contract between the 
party signing it and the party named 
in it and can not be endorsed so as to 
give any one else a right to collect it. 


CONCERNING CHEQUES 


Suppose one is stranded in a country 
town. One has no cheques; there are 
no blank cheque forms to be had; one 
must make out a cheque on a piece of 
spotless, white paper. First, one puts 
down the date, then the name and ad- 
dress of one’s bank, and then writes 
“Pay to Mary Jones twenty-five dol- 
lars,” and signs one’s name. The words. 
“Pay to the order of,” have been for- 
gotten. This seems a harmless omis- 
sion, but Mary Jones then endorses it 
over to Bill Smith, the grocer, to pay 
her grocery bill. Bill Smith tries to 
cash it at the Lonesomehurst bank and 
is refused, because this is not a nego- 
tiable or a transferable instrument. 
Mary Jones is the only one who has 
the right to collect on it. 

Now, let us go back to the question 
of the one thousand dollars owed to the 
dressmaker and the cheque made pay- 
able to the order of Mrs. Vandeveer by 
her husband. Suppose, instead of en- 
dorsing it to the dressmaker by writing 
“Pay to the order of Hortense Ar- 
mande” and signing it, she simply 
signed her name. This is called an en- 
dorsement in blank, and thereafter the 
cheque is payable to bearer exactly as 
if it had been made payable to bearer 
in the body of the cheque. 

It is my belief that it is the better 
practice never to give cheques made 
payable to oneself to creditors or friends 
by endorsement. The best way is to 
deposit all cheques in one’s own bank 
account and give one’s own cheque. 

There are other forms of endorse- 
(Continued on page 158) 











m- 


le 





September 15 

















+“ Lady of os 5 . 


IN A DAY-TIME COSTUME BY 


INC. 


FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK 


o 


BOYLSTON STREET, BOSTON 


Wardrobe for gentlewomen by Hickson available in the leading establishments of one hundred American cities 












































Youth's Simple (harm 


‘Revealed in Fashions 
for Every Woman 





Everywhere 





7: i 


Jacqueminot 
Coat of hollyberry 
Fawnskin combined 
with lustrous seal 


ot. a en had By Pe 


Pes 


thet ties: Ae? 


ge 


Sophomore 


Dress of midnight blue Charmeen 
with contrasting Georgette frills 


Harmonie 


Coat of cinnabar Kashmana lavishly 
trimmed with beige squirrel and buttons 


The “road to happiness” for a woman 
often lies in the possession of attire so 
lovely that it makes her realize her high- 
est ideals of art, fashion and beauty. 


House of Youth 
(oats, Frocks and (ostume Suits 


are to be found in the smartest shops 
of the land. They are worn by the 
modish miss and charming matron every- 
where, who seek for an individuality in 
dress expressive of real character. They 
are inspired by the highest creative 
fashion genius in a wholly original way. 


Write for a copy of “SUCCESS IN DRESS” a delightful 
fashion publication full of the latest style news for autumn 

















SCHULMAN & HAUPTMAN 
224 WEST 35th ST., NEW YORK 




























CONSIDERING 





VOGUE 


THE CHEQUE 


(Continued from page 156) 


ments, but the average woman will not 
meet with them, and even the average 
business man has to hurry to his law- 
yer when any trouble over a peculiar 
form of endorsement arises. 


WHEN NOT TO ENDORSE A CHEQUE 


No one should forget that, by en- 
dorsing a note or a cheque, one becomes 
liable to pay if the maker does not, 
provided that payment is duly de- 
mnanded of the maker and that notice 
of the maker’s refusal to pay is duly 
sent tothe endorser. This notice iscalled 
a notice of dishonour. There is some- 
thing picturesque about this phrase. 
It suggests the Anglo-Saxon indigna- 
tion at the man who repudiated his 
financial obligations, so that a notice 
of non-payment on the part of an indi- 
vidual becomes a notice of dishonour. 
Of course, this notice must be sent to 
the endorser in writing, and there are 
precise rules of law in each State as to 
the promptness with which it must be 
sent. In general, the rule is that this 
notice of dishonour must be sent to the 
endorser’s place of business or resi- 
dence either on the very day of the 
maker’s refusal to pay, or on the next 
day. The notice is simply a statement 
of the fact that the note, draft, or 
cheque described or copied in full was 
duly presented to the maker, that he 
refused to pay, and, therefore, that the 
holder will look to the endorser for 
payment. This will be clearer if we 
take a definite situation as an example. 

Suppose one has a friend visiting 
one from the West. Her husband sends 
her a cheque. She asks her hostess to 
cash it for her, and the hostess walks 
up to the paying teller at her bank and, 
in turn, asks him to cash it. “Certainly, 
Mrs. Vandeveer,” he says, “just en- 
dorse it, please.” Mrs. Vandeveer signs 
her name. Her friend tucks the crisp, 
new bills into her purse, two hundred 
of them, goes to the railroad station, 
and the train pulls out. About a week 
Jater, the bank notifies Mrs Vandeveer 
that they presented that cheque for 
payment at the bank on which it was 
drawn, but that her friend’s husband 
had no funds there. The cheque is 
protested. Mrs. Vandeveer endorsed 


it: she must pay. The bank which so 
kindly cashed the cheque does not lose, 
for the cashier has safeguarded him- 
self and the bank by his “Endorse it, 
please.”” One can not blame the teller, 
or the president, or the abstraction 
called the bank, if one endorses the 
cheque. After this notice of non-pay- 
ment comes the protest itself. This is 
a formal document stating the same 
facts as the notice of non-payment, but 
it is signed and sealed by a notary. 
This is now in the proper form to use 
as evidence in case it becomes neces- 
sary to sue the endorser. 

When there are several endorsers in 
succession, the creditor may select any 
one he thinks has the money to pay. 
He need not take them in the order in 
which their names appear on the back 
of the note. But, if one of many en- 
dorsers is thus compelled to pay, he 
may collect if he can from any endorser 
whose name stands above his on the 
paper; that is, who incurred liability 
by endorsing earlier than he did. 

Endorsement is a serious matter. 
Many a woman with independent 
means has endorsed her son’s note to 
help him, not realizing at all that she 
was rendering herself liable to pay the 
amount of the note out of her own 
property. When her property is swept 
away by her son’s creditors, it is too 
late to give advice. Oscar Wilde re- 
marked with profound truth that ex- 
perience teaches us every lesson just 
too late to apply it. 


CUSTOM AND CONVENIENCE 


Just a word about the proper form 
of endorsement. The law allows the 
endorsement to be written anywhere 
on the back of the instrument, but it 
is a general custom to endorse a cheque 
across the stub end, that is, the per- 
forated end, where the cheque was torn 
out of the cheque-book. If one is the 
first endorser, it is wise to write one’s 
endorsement about an inch below the 
perforated end. This leaves room below 
for other endorsements and leaves room 
above for handling. It also allows for 
possible wearing at the end, which is 
liable to occur as the cheque lies in 
the bank’s files. . 


SOUTHAMPTON—z4e PLACE ¢o PLAY 


(Continued from page 154) 


left side. Mrs. Charles Sabin, who is 
noted, not only for the exquisite taste 
with which she has furnished her 
beautiful house at Southampton, but 
also for the perfection of her clothes, 
wore at the subscription dinner for the 
Boys’ Club of New York, at Canoe 
Place Inn, a lovely costume—a dress of 
pale peach coloured chiffon entirely 
embroidered in a light cobweb-like de- 
sign of crystal embroidery. Tight about 
her throat, she always wears a very 
large string of dazzlingly white pearls. 
With this dress, she wore oblong carved 
jade earrings that hung on slender 
diamond chains. She wears her fluffy 
hair softly about her face, with a small 
knot low in the neck. Miss Rosalie 
Pillot wears a pink chiffon dress trim- 
med with ostrich, and Miss Cornelia 
Livingston a deep cream colour frock 
absolutely plain and straight, with 
wide bands of horizontal embroidery 
in deep gold. Miss Livingston has a 


Eo 


particularly successful boyish hair-cut. 
It is parted on one side and softly and 
smoothly brushed back on either side. 
While it is cut snugly at the neck-line 
in the back, it is by no means the un- 
fortunately exaggerated shave that is 
worn by some women. The bob has 
done one thing; it has forced the 
American woman to consider the back 
of her head. A criticism justly made, 
for years, by our French sisters was 
that when the women here had coiffed 
their hair and looked carefully in the 
glass in front, they never considered 
how they might look when viewed from 
the rear. In Southampton, the great 
variety and excellence of the shingled 
heads show that this is a part of the 
present-day silhouette that, above all, 
must not be neglected, for there is 
nothing that more emphatically proves 
whether a woman is well turned out 
or not than the care she gives her 
coiffure. 











~~ J aN 








ee L~ Ce 





LL ~ 








rc 8850 sein é " ses AE hn BES pS 





tess ya as: NA DOLOMITES ie em ct 8 


Exquisi Kom) I/O 0) Kolde d 


Nemo/lastie 


Rubber Girdles 
Make Reducing Sane 


SWerewetayamatlolecommaceltiatel-meitcel(arteleMoetry(cmittelmeye 
IN CSaatoyetial om oputetscweaceltlotelsm on muclcmorralctmmetauelereMcelael- 
eyetelme) moe tiiitcmuctetsntaele 

Nemolastik, which is finest Para rubber covered on both 
sides with pure silk, is an exclusive fabric perfected and 
protected by the makers of Nemo Corsets. 


No rubber touches the skin. 


WN Coeatel etal au ot Ceacaze)itioleyetrcempatlololcameltcel (cmetele iM ob e:tp 
sieres—smooth and delicate to the touch as a silk glove 
dainty in appearance as finest silk lingerie. 


Se Conlele tel eutcel(arttemeetslocaglittiert«ce) Melcatietce 
by the master makers of Nemo Corsets, hold your figure 
firm, yet give you the immediate sensation of supple slen- 
derness, of lithe and elastic figure—a figure of freedom 
which is a revelation. Made for every size and type. 


Every portion of the figure touched by the girdle or bras- 
siere is continually massaged, excess fatty tissue is disintegra- 
rare Wr-Vole i oy-ttiere Meyrandetceltl-ietmaeetcatltiaceel 

Guaranteed against tearing— 

Brassiere cannot ride-up. readily washed, retaining the deli- 

Stay-put device holds it frm. —_ Care flesh tint of the silk. 

The small illustration shows 
how the ‘“Stayput” attachment at 
the back of the brassiere, when 
fastened to the girdle, prevents 
riding-up over corset-top even 
under greatest possible strain. 


Ask for them today at your dealers. 


—— 


_—— 
: ‘ = on 
None Genuine Without—-Ehis.- Mark: 


ON ee ae eee eee ese eee eeeeeeeeeesp 


\ - 


Noms) Made of Genuine 3 GIRDLE 


je 
i 


“feo MEMOIASLIR 31075 


BRASSIERE C/ 


S575 : 





a 


Letters Fatent and ( 
Registration Pending 


SGN w Sy) 
Wants 


h 


THE HOUSE OF COMPLETE CORSETRY 


I2O EAST IGTH-STREET 
NEW YORK. NN. 





Yi CAD CAD, CAD, CAS CRS CHS CHO CAS CHSC) 


‘T know she will 
adore it— 
just as I did mine” 


‘‘T will never forget when I found my 
wedding silver was Super Plate and 
Century Pattern. There was nothing 
more to ask. This is why I so love 
to Rive it to others.” 


Holmes & Edwards Super Plate is 
different. Every piece is heavily 
plated with pure silver and in addi- 
tion those most used have Solid 
Silver Inlaid under the plate at the 

~ two rest points to insure perma- 
nent satisfaction. 


Super Plate—Inlaid 
‘Solid Silver Where I: Wears"’ 


— dhe Century 


JeaSpoon 
Waa meiban Saat 


Write for Gift Booklet 


SILVERPLATE 


from the House of 


- HOLMES § EDWARDS 


BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT 
SUCCEEDED BY © 1.8001924 


Also in Canada, Standard Silver Company of Toronto, Limited 








mw HAT 


THE DARK NIGHT 
by MAY SINCLAIR 
PUBLISHED BY MACMILLAN 


One wonders whether Miss Sinclair 
cast this story in poetry because she 
thought it was too stark for prose, or 
merely as a tour de force. 

Whatever her motive, she has at 
least produced a telling book. For the 
first time since the old ballads, poetry 
has become the flexible and successful 
medium of a long narrative. This 
form, too, has lessened the defects of 
her scenario—not that she uses such 
indefinite phrases as very young or 
very old poets indulge in, but that 
the swing of her imagery gives it all 
a somewhat smoother quality. 

The story is the tragedy of Elizabeth 
and her love for Victor, the poet. She 
adopts an orphaned cousin, Monica, 
only to lose her husband to the girl. 
Strange to say, she feels no fiery re- 
sentment, but only a white pity; when 
her husband goes blind and the girl 
deserts him, she takes him back to the 
sunshine of her garden of blue lark- 
spurs. 

The analytical interest of the book 
lies in the contrast of the two women. 
Monica is beautiful, with sullen eyes 
beneath brown brows. Though a child, 
her soul is ancient and passionate. 
She is the flame and darkness of the 
earth. She lays her nets for the poet, 
who succumbs, as men generally do 
to maenads. Elizabeth is a_ sunlit 
and saintly soul. The presence of 
God is actual to her, and she knows 
the hushed secrets of the heavens. She 
is free from unforgiving hate, and 
grief, and the pain of desire. Yet, 
she must not be mistaken for a weak- 
ling. She is stronger than nature, 
stronger even than herself. 

The book derives a pleasant unity 
from the fact that all the scenes pass 
before the same background of Eliza- 


beth’s (not German) garden. The love _ 


of her poet unfolds beneath the beech- 
tree in her garden beside 


“A hedge of blue larkspurs before a 
grey gold wall; 

Flowers, a blue swarm, clinging to 
spire upon tall spire.” 


There were woven the strands of 
her married life, among the cool fra- 
grances of the lilacs; there, also, her 
dark night of despair in the shadow 
of the yew-trees; there, finally, her 
restoration, while a white butterfly 
trembles among the blue larkspurs. 

Though interesting for the while, 
and unique in its narrow field, this 
will scarcely be ranked among Miss 
Sinclair’s finest books. It is at best 
an amiable experiment. 


DAEDALUS 

by J. B. S. HALDANE 
ICARUS 

by BERTRAND RUSSELL 
BOTH PUBLISHED BY DUTTON 


To Haldane, Daedalus is a symbol 
of the scientist’s detachment from 
ethics and from the gods. Alone of 
the men of ancient myth, the gods 
took no concern in his affairs, though 
perhaps no man of that early day 
offended them so seriously. In him, 
our author sees the triumph of science 
over superstition to the making of a 
new and better world. But Mr. Rus- 
sell recalls the figure of Icarus. Taught 
to fly by an inventive parent, he flew, 
too near the sun and fell into the sea. 
The lesson is obviously that the excess 
of science will bring only the ruin of 
civilization. 

Both are startling little books, which 
no one can lay down as thoughtlessly 
as they were taken up. They are dar- 


i Bee x 


VOGUE 
mR E A’ D 


ing, and especially the first, which pre- 
dicts the creation of strange new forms 
of life—including the ecto-genetic birth 
of children. It also provides a sly 
humour which the preoccupied author 
of Icarus fails to second. 

Though these two are, supposedly, 
two sides of the question of science 
and its relation to the future of civi- 
lization, there is really no direct con- 
flict. Haldane focuses attention on 
biology and what that science may do. 
Dr. Russell is concerned with econ- 
omics and sociology and bothers with 
the problems of those philosophies. As 
a matter of fact, neither is convincing 
as a proof, for both overlook the one 
obvious fact which prophets and his- 
torians must recognize. Namely, no 
matter what science, or government, or 
anthropology may achieve, man’s will 
is free. He is going to do as he 
pleases, and hate, and make love as 
of old, whether airplanes fly to the 
moon, and whether or not the League 
of Nations meets at Geneva. 


WOMEN AND WIVES 
by HARVEY FERGUSSON 
PUBLISHED BY KNOPF 


Mr. Fergusson’s picture of Wash- 
ington is so perfect that it is almost 
apt to distract from the human figures 
in the foreground. For once, we have 
a story of our capital city that does 
not bother with the gaiety and pre- 
sumings of its social circle. Women 
and Wives is about the more typical 
inhabitants of the District of Columbia 
—the young men and women who 
enter it so hopefully, but who seldom 
remain either hopeful or happy. 

The trouble with Jim and Catherine 
is that love meant to them the glowing 
of a honey coloured moon, and the 
blooming of honeysuckles and the soft 
music of a waltz. Then they married 
and tried it in a three-room flat. 

Most men who have imagination 
dream of a wandering life, but a short 
rope ties them to a job and a woman 
and a home. So Jim masked his 
failure behind dreams of affluence and 
the Spanish Main, and adventured 
vicariously—with a young woman 
named Fanny. Catherine rebelled 
against monotony and decided to snatch 
what she wanted from life. The book 
leaves her in New York with an old 
lover, and Jim in Washington with 
Fanny—and a bald spot. 

Crude as it sounds, the book is 
nevertheless deft enough, and discon- 
certing in the cool and logical slide of 
the young couple down the toboggan 
of their married life. 


POEMS OF WALES 
by A. G. PRYS-JONES 
PUBLISHED BY APPLETON 


Apart from its own value of music 
and thought, this little book of poems 
is interesting as a signal of the new 
“national consciousness” of Wales. Mr. 
Prys-Jones’s poetry moves with a 
dream-like quality which goes to prove 
him a true Welshman. The Welsh 
share with their germane cousins, the 
Irish, in a divine quality of mysticism 
that has almost disappeared from the 
rest of the world. They draw their 
clear conviction from rivers that run 
deeper than the soul. 

Among the poems is an original and 
Macaber interpretation of the Rach- 
maninoff prelude in C-sharp minor. 
It is the beating of frenzied hands on a 
coffin lid; closing with the rather sober 
reflection : 


“What does it matter—now he’s dead 
That he died in his grave instead of 
his bed?” 
(Continued on page 164) 





Se 


D 


pre- 
orms 
birth 
1 sly 
ithor 


edly, 
ience 
Civi- 
con- 
1 on 
y do. 
con- 
with 
3. As 
icing 
one 
his- 
» no 
t, or 
wil! 
3 he 
€ as 
the 
ague 


ash- 
nost 
ures 
lave 
does 
pre- 
men 
ical 
abia 
who 
lom 


rine 
ring 

the 
soft 
ried 


tion 
ort 
nan 
his 
and 
red 
nan 
lled 
itch 
00k 
old 
rith 


sic 
ms 
ew 
Mir, 


ve 
Ish 
the 
sm 
the 
eir 
un 


nd 
h- 


1a 
er 


ad 








September 15 


An irresistible 


complexion 


—this new way 


Here is the secret famous beauties 
of Europe know. Now being 


adopted all over America 


OU, too, may have an irresistible com- 

plexion—a lovely skin that all admire. A 
face that is never shiny—without excessive per- 
spiration. A skin which glows with health and 
cleanliness. Now,too,a personal daintiness never 
known before. 








By its aid thousands have come 
to know fresher, daintier complex- 
ions. More healthy, vigorous skin. 
No large, unsightly pores, no exces- 
sive perspiration. Thecontinued use 
of Eau de Cologne—No. 4 prevents 


You have seen the matchless complexions of 
“the women of Paris—of Vienna—of Madrid. 
Yet they use make-up lavishly at times. But it 
never seems to be make-up! Their secret makes 
it natural. And there are no ill effects to the 


complexion. 

Ten years ago the im- 
portations of Eau de 
Cologne—No. 4 were cut 
off by the war. Today, for 
the first time, it may be 
had again in better Amer- 
ican shops. Itis thesecret 
to the new way of making 
up. The way long known 
to Continental beauties. 
A way entirely new to 
American women. 

Eau de Cologne—No. 4 
improves whatever cos- 
metics you now are using. 
Itgives amore pleasingnat- 
ural effect. It is not what 
is known as “cologne.” It 
is a distinct, an exclusive 
special toilet water. None 
other can equal it, none 
imitate it, except in name. 





these things. 








Girne name Eau de Cologne is so fa- 
mous that many do not realizethat 
it exclusively applies to the cos- 
metic toilet water made since 1709 by 
the family of Johann Maria Farina. 
Importations have just been resumed 
after 10 years when the war prevented 
its manufacture. 


For more than 200 years this famous cos- 
metic has been the choice of world’s royalty. 
From among the many royal warrants granted 
Eau de Cologne, the following are a few most 
representative : 


EDWARD VII, King of England 
EMPEROR NAPOLEON III 
LEOPOLD I, King of Belgium 
ALPHONS XII, King of Spain 
LOUIS I, King of Portugal 
GEORGE I, King of Greece 
THE TENNO OF JAPAN 
CHRISTIAN VIII, King of Denmark 
EMPEROR FRANCIS JOSEPH I 
nen II, Emperor of Brazil 
HARLES I, King of Roumania 


Genuine Eau de Cologne is sold only in the 
La ona as illustrated. At better shops every- 
where. Insist on the original and genuine. 


2-ounce bottle, 65c; 4-ounce, $1.25; 


8-ounce, $2.00 








an de Cologne 


There are a thousand intimate uses Conti- 
nental women find for Eau de Cologne—No. 4. 
Seek it on distinguished dressing tables, in the 
boudoirs of beauties. Not only is it used as an 


astringent, as a skin stim- 
ulant—Eau de Cologne 
—wNo. 4 is a personal de- 
odorant. In the bath it is 
a stimulating restorative. 
It prevents perspiration, 
closes pores, thus prevent- 
ing shiny nose or face. 

Now again, Eau de 
Cologne— No. 4 is avail- 
ablein America. At better 
drug and department 
stores everywhere. Insist, 
though, that you get the 
genuine—the only orig- 
inal. Look for the bottle 
and carton as illustrated. 
None other is the gen- 
uine, as made by Johann 
Maria Farina. 

Go, today, and get Eau 
deCologne—No. 4. After 
a few days’ use you will 
never be without it again. 





Exclusive Sales Agents HAROLD F. RITCHIE & CO., Inc., 171 Madison Ave., New York City 
SERVICE LABORATORIES, INC., CHICAGO, Sole Importers and Distributors for the U. S. A. 


161 








Try this new 
make-up secret 


Here is what foreign beauties 
think is the perfect foundation 
for make-up: 


First, the usual application of 
cold cream, After removing it as 
usual, pat Eau de Cologne—No. 4 
lightly over the face and allow 
to evaporate. This removes sur- 
plus cream, closes pores, freshens 
and tightens the skin, keeping it 
firm. It gives the complexion a 
smooth, fine texture, ideal for 
even, effective make-up. 


Most important, Eau de 
Cologne prevents shine—posi- 
tively —even when the first 
freshness of make-up wears off. 


The only original comes 
in this bottle and carton 


The Origina 
ands Genuine 


Enmi de Cologne | 


SRC SEES OIE ABC SRST LEE 














JSiilichs-Platz NO 4 


in Kotn ihe. 















PRICE $299 





162 








WGY and KGO 
are the broad- 
casting stations 
of the General 
Electric Com- 
pany at Schenec- 
tady and Oak- 
land. Each, at 
times, is a con- 
cert hall, a lec- 
tureroom,anews 
bureau, a thea- 
tre, or a place of 
worship. 





Stage directions for this scene from William 
Vaughn Moody’ splay, ‘“TheGreat Divide,” 
call for a woman’s muffled scream, a pistol 
shot, and the crash of breaking furniture. 
The microphone on the right sends themall 
to your home. 


An Exciting 
Evening 


Here are four of the 
WGY Players (the 
world’s first radio dra- 
matic company) at a 
thrilling climax which 
almost turns sound in- 
to sight. 


Tune in, some evening, 
on one of their produc- 
tions. You will be sur- 
prised to find how 
readily your imagina- 
tion will supply stage 
and setting. 


GENERAL ELECTRIC 











VOGUE 


RUSSIAN RECIPES FOR THE HOSTESS 


(Continued from page 77) 


“polite eating.”” The Borzoi Cook Book 
is a book for gourmets and for those 
who are interested in what food, sym- 
bolically, represents. It is more than 
a cookery book; it is almost an étude 
de meurs and an historical document. 

The following recipes are out of 
The Borzoi Cook Book, which has been 
published in this country by Knopf. 
All of the dishes here are not too dif- 
ficult to make and are well within the 
reach of every one. 


KASHA (RUSSIAN PORRIDGE) 


To make kasha, one pound of buck- 
wheat is washed, one raw egg rubbed 
in till all the buckwheat is sticky, and 
the mixture put on the fire in a sauce- 
pan. Next, to a pint and a half of 
salted boiling water, two tablespoons- 
ful of butter, and the buckwheat are 
added. This mixture is stirred until it 
thickens, then the saucepan is put into 
the oven and the kasha cooked until 
tender. A quarter of a cup of Parmesan 
cheese is then grated, and two table- 
spoonsful of butter melted in a separate 
saucepan. Next, a plain charlotte mould 
is buttered, and a layer of the kasha 
(the cooked buckwheat) put in, the 
grated cheese sprinkled over it, and a 
dessert-spoonful of the melted butter 
poured over this. Then, another layer 
of kasha is added, and so on until the 
dish is full. Melted butter should be 
poured over the top, and the kasha 
cooked in the oven till browned, and 
then served in the mould with a nap- 
kin round it. This kasha is usually 
eaten with borstch, a beet soup very 
popular in the south of Russia. Kasha 
may also be mixed with onion (fried 
and chopped) and used as a stuffing 
for meat. It is particularly delicious 
served with young lamb. 


A SIMPLE RUSSIAN DISH 


Filet 4 la Hussard, a simple Russian 
dish, is made in the following manner. 
A piece of undercut beef (about six 
pounds) is cleaned, the veins removed, 
the sides trimmed, salt added, and the 
whole tied with fine string. Next, it 
is cooked in the oven until done, then 
taken out, cooled, and cut into slices, 
leaving one end whole. The following 
stuffing is then placed between the 
slices of beef, every other one of which 
has been buttered. The slices are then 
put back, together with the unbuttered 
pieces, all tied together, and cooked a 
little longer. Then, the beef is taken out, 
put on a dish (warmed), with the 
gravy that remains reduced and poured 
on the dish with the beef. 

For the stuffing, a quarter of a pound 
of butter is melted in a saucepan, two 
chopped onions are added, and the 
onions are fried until they are coloured. 
Two cups of bouillon are then poured 
over some grated bread-crumbs, and 
mushrooms, previously chopped fine 
and fried in butter, mixed in. A quarter 
of a pint of sour cream, one-eighth of 
a pound of grated cheese, and the 
onions are then added to the mixture. 


RUSSIAN ROLLS 


A comparatively simple recipe among 
more complicated ones for piroshki 
(patties in puff paste) is called “Rus- 
sian rolls.” To make it, one first buys 
little round rolls—one for each person 
expected for dinner. The top crusts 
are cut off and the rolls soaked in two 
cups of milk mixed with three eggs. 
Then, the centres of the rolls are 
scooped out, and the bread cups thus 
formed are dipped in melted butter 
and browned in the oven. 

A stuffing is made (for ten rolls) in 


the following manner. Fifteen young 
carrots and a quarter of a pound of 
French beans are cut into small pieces 
and the beans mixed with one half 
pound of green pease. These vegetables 
are then cooked, the carrots separately, 
as the beans and pease should be boiled 
in water to which one-eighth of a tea- 
spoonful of soda has been added. When 
the vegetables are done, they are drained, 
put in a frying-pan with two table- 
spoonsful of butter, and fried. One 
teaspoonful of salt and three sprigs of 
uncooked fenel leaves, chopped fine, are 
added, and the bread cups are filled 
with the mixture. The yolk of an egg 
is brushed over the vegetables and the 
bread, the whole rolled in fine bread- 
crumbs, and grated cheese sprinkled 
over the tops. The cups should be 
baked for fifteen minutes in a hot oven. 


PIE WITH CABBAGE 


“Pie with cabbage” sounds as incon- 
gruous as corn muffins with ice-cream. 
Yet, it is a good Russian recipe. 

First, a brioche pastry is prepared 
and is stood in a warm place for an 
hour. Then, two chopped onions are 
fried in butter until they are golden. 
One fresh cabbage, which has had the 
stalk removed and boiling water poured 
over it, is chopped and placed with 
three cups of water in the covered 
saucepan with the onions. This is 
cooked slowly until tender. When the 
cabbage and onions have been drained, 
four chopped hard-boiled eggs, one tea- 
spoonful of salt and one-eighth of a 
teaspoonful of pepper are added. 

This mixture is placed on one-half 
the pastry, which has been rolled out. 
The second half, also rolled, is used as 
the pie covering, with the edges pinched 
together. This patty should be placed 
on a buttered iron baking-sheet and 
left for fifteen minutes before baking. 
Then, egg yolk is brushed over its top, 
and the pie is baked. 


CUCUMBERS WITH SOUR CREAM 


An unusual salad is of cucumbers 
with sour cream. Twelve young cu- 
cumbers are peeled, cut into small dice, 
and salted slightly. Three hard-boiled 
egg yolks, also salted, with three- 
fourths of a cup of sour cream, stirred 
in slowly, one-half tablespoonful of 
vinegar and a dash of pepper are added. 
The salad should be mixed thoroughly. 


PLOMBIERE CREAM WITH ALMONDS 


For delicious almond cream, threc- 
fourths of a cup of shelled almonds— 
allowing one bitter almond for every 
ten sweet (or less, according to taste) 
—are put into boiling water, peeled. 
dried, and pounded fine. One pint of 
cream is added gradually, and the 
mixture is put into a saucepan and 
placed where it will not boil, but merely 
become warm. When well warmed, it 
should be passed through a sieve. Six 
egg yolks are whipped white with one 
and one-fourth pounds of sugar, the 
warmed almonds and cream are added 
and put back on a slow fire to be 
stirred until thick. 

The cream is poured into a charlotte 
mould—not to the top—, covered with a 
sheet of paper, and put into a freezer. 
When the cream begins to freeze, it 
should be uncovered carefully, mixed 
smooth with a wooden spatula, and 
one-half pint of whipped cream stirred 
in thoroughly. It should not be dis- 
turbed again, but left with ice over its 
lid in the freezer for four or five hours. 
Chopped candied fruit and orange peel 
may be added, but the taste is more 
delicate without them. 


DY 


























UE 


SS 


yung 
1 of 
sces 
half 
bles 
tely, 
iled 
tea- 
hen 
ned, 
ble- 
One 
s of 

are 
lled 
egg 

the 


cled 
be 


yen, 


on- 
am. 


red 
an 
are 
len. 
the 
red 
‘ith 
red 
is 
the 
ed, 
ea- 


alf 
ut. 


ed 
ed 
nd 
1g. 
dp, 











September 15 


163 








> 
2 
> 
2 
p 
2 


US 




















Sy DL 








WHICH WOULD YOU RATHER WEAR 


SILK OR TIN ? 





Supposz you walked into a store one day and 
found somesilks placarded likethis ‘‘ These silks 
are heavily weighted with tin to give them the BODY 
of better silks for less money. They will crack or split 
and if you send them to the cleaners, they are likely 
to come home seriously damaged.”’ 

And turning around you saw another group 
labeled ‘‘These are Belding’ s Pure-dyed Silks. They 
are as good as they look—the strength of the ORIGINAL 
silk has been zealously guarded at every stage of 
manufacture. They will wear even better than you 
expect and clean perfectly as often as you like.”’ 
Wuicu Woutp You Cuoose To SPEND YouR 


Money On? Of Course! 


Every time you buy silk for a dress, a lining, 
or a bit of lingerie, you must make a choice 
more or less like this except that there is no la- 
bel to tell you which is the we1cuTep silk. 
The really important point however is to be 
able to tell the good silk. That you can do.eas- 
ily because the name Belding’s woven in the 
selvage of every genuine Belding’s Silk has 
meant Silks of enduring beauty and worth for 
three generations. 

If you do not know which store near you sells 
Belding’s Silks, it will be worth while to in- 
quire until you find it—10,000 good shops sell 


and recommend them. 


Belding’s 


FABRICS - EMBROIDERIES 


Belding Bros. ©” Company 





* SPOOL SILKS 


902 Broadway, New York City 











PK ORF ERI ERD CORIO TIA LOR IO ERD CROY FRED CRS 








164 





VOGUE PATTERN SERVICE 


showroom nearest you; orthey may be purchased at any of the shops listed below, where 


P stewroom: may be ordered by mail from Greenwich, Connecticut, or from the pattern 


books of colour sketches and lengths of the season's favoured materials are 
exhibited. Remittances should be made out to the store or office from which you order. 
Sizes: Patterns are cut in sizes 34 to 44 in. bust measure, 24 to 32 in. waist measure, 
and 37 to 45 in. hip measure, unless otherwise specified; misses’ patterns, 14 to 20 years; 
children's — I'to 12 years. When ordering patterns by mail, please state the size. 


Prices o! 


atterns in this issue are: Nos. 7846 to 7853, 65 cents. 


Patterns may be purchased from: 


ABERDEEN, S. D.: The Olwin-Angell 


Com 
AKRON, O.: Nerd A. Polsky Co. 
a a = en John- 
‘omp: 
ATLANTIC CITY, PN. "he M. E. Blatt 


&e-~ the Department Store of Atlantic 
ity 
AUSTIN, TEXAS: Adam Johnson Com- 


Pany 
BALTIMORE, MD.: Hutzler Brothers 
Company, or O'Neill and Company, 


Inc. 
BEAUMONT, TEXAS: The Rosenthal 
Dry Goods Co. 
BINGHAMTON, Ww. W.3 
Welden Company 
BLOOMINGTON, ILL.: 
BOSTON. MASS.: R. H. Stearns Com- 
ny, a ordan Marsh Company 
BRIDGEP a CONN.: The D. M. 
ea 
BROOKLYN, N & Seaton & Spee 
FFALO, N. Y.: | Flint & K 
oe 0. ae Klein- ~~ 
rs 
ag RAPIDS, IOWA: The Denecke 


Com 
CHARLESTON, w. 


Sisson Bros.- 


Mayer Liv- 


VA.: Coyle and 
Richardson 
CHARLOTTE, N. C.: J. B. Ivey & 
Company 
CHICAGO, ILL.: Carson Pirie Scott 
« Company, or Madigan Bros., Mad- 
and ala Streets. 
CINCINNA O.: H. & S. Pogue 


inane te the Jolin Shillito Company 
CLEVELAND, O.: Halle Bros. 
COLUMBUS, O.: The F. & R. Lazarus 
& Company 
“ol TEXAS: Titche-Goettinger 
perro t CONN.: John McLean, Inc. 
— N, O.: The Rike-Kumler Com- 


DENVER, COLO.: The Joslin Dry 
Goods Company, or The Denver Dry 
Goods Company 

DES — IOWA: 


Com 
DETROIT. MICH.: The J.-L. Hudson 


Harris-Emery 


Company 

DULUTH, MINN.: Silberstein & Bondy 
Company 

EL PASO, TEXAS: Popular Dry Goods 
Company 

ERIE, PA.: Trask, Prescott & Richardson 


Co. 
EVANSTON, ILL.: Lord’s, Fountain 


Squa’ 
EVANSVILLE, IND.: S. G. Evans Dry 
= SCOTT, » Hy rem a J. Cal- 
n Dry Goods C omp: 
FORT. WAYNE, IND.: _ Dry Goods 


Co. 
FORT WORTH, TEXAS: Sanger Bros. 
FRANKFORT, KY.: W. S. Farmer & 


Son 
GALESBURG, ILL.: The O. T. Johnson 
Company 
Ms oo baa e's MICH.: Friedman- 
ing © ry Goods LComenny 
GREA AT FALLS. ggg The Paris 
GREEN BAY, WISCONSIN: Jorgensen, 
HACKENSACK, — J.: Gordon Dry 


Goods Com 
HARRISBURG, PA.: Pomeroy’s, Inc. 
HARTFORD, CONN.: Sage-Allen & 


Co., Inc. 
HOT SPRINGS, ARK.: The Specialty 


Sho 
HOUSTON. TEXAS: Foley Brothers 
y Goods Company 
HUNTINGTON, W. VA.: 


b Co. 
HUTCHINSON, KAN.: a Pegues- 


ry s Com mae 
INDIANAPOLIS, IND:: ". Ayres & 
ompa 
JACKS eae, FLA.: Cohen Bros. 
JOHNSTO PA rge K. Kline 
a N, MISSOURI: Ramsay Dry Goods 
om 
KALAMAZOO. MICH.: Gilmore Bros. 


Anderson- 





a ng SL —* : John Taylor 
KNOXVILLE. TENN: : Miller’s 
LAKE CHARLES, LA.: The Muller 


Co., Ltd., 625 Ryan Street 
LANCASTER, O. :Chas. P. Wiseman & Co. 
LANCASTER, PA.: Hager & Bro. 
LANSING, MICH.: J. W. Knapp Co. 


Miller & Paine 
The Gus Blass 


J. W. Robinson 


pip ged NEBR.: 
LITTL E ROCK, ARK.: 


Com 
LOS ‘ANGELES, CAL.: 


ompan 
LYNCHBURG, VA.: D. Moses &Co., Inc. 
a N. H.: The Barton 
‘om 
MEMPHIS, TENN.: The Bry-Block 
Mercantile Company 
MIAMI, FLA.: Burdine & Siete 
MIDDLETOWN, N. Y.: The Amie 
Norris Comeery, 3 James Street 
fe CE. WIS.: Bertha Ehlers, 
he eee ad Shop, 106 Wisconsin St. 
MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.: The Dayton 


Com 
NEWARK. N. J.: L. Bamberger & Co. 
NEW ~~ CONN.: The James 


pee Ary 

RLEANS, LA.: D. H. Holmes 
Com anv. Ltd.,” or Charles A. Kaufman 

On, 

NEW ROCHELLE, N. Y¥.: Ware's 

NEW YORK CITY: B. Altman & Co., 
Fifth Avenue and 34th Street, John 
Wanamaker, Broadway cor. Eighth 
pong w Vogue Pattern Room, 19 West 


NORFOLK, VA.::° Smith & naga Inc. 

OKLAHOMA CITY, KL The 
Kerr Dry Goods Co. 

OMAHA, NEBR.: Thompson, Belden 
and Com any 

PADUCA KY.: Guthrie Co. 


The 
PEORIA, ILL. : Block and Teun Company 
PETERSBURG, VA.: A. Rosenstock 


& Company 
PHILADELPHIA, PA.: 
maker 
PITTSBURGH, PA.: Joseph Horne Co., 


or Kaufmann’s 
PORTLAND, ORE.: Chaten F. Berg, 
Gladding Dry 


John Wana- 


300-11 Morrison Stree 

PROVIDENCE. hana seg 
Goods Com: 

RICHMOND. VA: Thalhimer Bros., Inc. 

ROCHESTER, N. Y.: McCurdy and 
Company, Inc 

ROCKFORD, FLL.: D. J. Stewart & 

SACRAMENTO, CAL.: Weinstock- 
Lubin and Company 

ig MASS. : Almy, Bigelow & Wash- 
urn. 

SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH: Keith- 


O’Brien Companv 
SAN ANTONIO, TEX.: Wolff & Marx 
The White 


Company 

SAN FRANCISCO. CAL.: 
House, Raphael Weill & Company 

SCRANTON, PA.: Scranton Dry Goods 
Company 

SEATTLE. WASH.: 
& Southwick Compa 

SEDALIA, MO.: C. W. 5, Dry Goods 
Companv 

SHREVEPORT, LA.: Zodiag’s, Inc. 

SIOUX CITY. 'OWA: Pelletier’s 

gg yy BEND, IND.: The Ellsworth 

tore 

ST. JOSEPH, MO.: The Townsend, 
Wyatt, and Wall Dry Goods Co. 

ST. LOUIS, MO.: Stix, Baer & Fuller 


°c MacDougall 


ty Goods Comnany 
ST. PAUL, .: Mannheimer Bros. 
STAUNTON, VA.: Charles Holt, Inc. 
ey N. ¥.: Dey Brothers and 


Com 
TACOMA, WASH.: _ Rhodes_ Brothers 
TOLEDO, : La Salle & Koch Co. 
TOPEKA, KANSAS: The Crosby Bros. 
Company 


TRENTON, N. a5, Hoenig, Swern & Co. 


TROY, N. Y.: V. S. Quackenbush 
& Company 

TULSA, OKLA.: The Hunt Company 

WARREN, PA.: Metzger-Wright Com- 


Fred S. Marshall 


pany 
wAmcetae’ PA.: 
The Miller 


WATERBURY, CONN.: 
and Peek Company 


WHEELING, VA. : Stone & Thomas 
— BARRE. PA.: The Isaac Long 
WILLIAMSPORT, PA.: L. L. Sterns 
ns 
WILMINGTON, DEL.: Schwartz Bros. 
Company 


WORCESTER, MASS.: Slocum’s Silk 
Store, 418 Main Street 
YONKERS, N. Y.: Anon & Rothman 
PA.: Chas. H. Bear Company 
YOUNGSTOWN, O.: The G. M. Mc- 
Kelvey Company 


FOREIGN AGENCIES 


En 
EORIDON, Condé Nast & Co., Ltd., Ald- 
wych House, Aldwych, W.C. 2 or james 
Shoolbred & Co., seaee ‘Tottenham House, 
Tottenham Cour 
aA iwell was & Son, sg Street 
ley 


wog 
Merchants, 
ed 
CORNW. 


oer 
HULL, Hammond's, Paragon Square 
os Morgan Squire & Co., Ltd., 


Hotel Stree 
LIVER’ POOL. Bon ny } Church St. 
MANCHESTER, Lewis's, Ltd. 
NORWICH, Chamberlin’'s 


ihe on of English 


“ol ly & Son, College Green 
rysede, Market Jew St., 


Complete Selection: 


NOTTINGHAM, Eric's 

PLYMOUTH, Spooner 

SHEFFIELD, H. E. Gloss & Co., Ltd., 37 
Fargate 

Sastined 
GLASGOW, Messrs. Treron, Ltd., 254-290 
Sauchiehall Street 

Ireland 

BELFAST, Robinson & Cleaver, Ltd., 
Donegal Place 


Canada 
ey ine QUEBEC, Henry Morgan 
o., Lt 


TORONTO, “ONTARIO, The Robert 


Simpson Co., Ltd. 
Sweden 
STOCKHOLM, Albert Bonnier 


A complete selection of all recent pattern models is shown in 


the Vogue Pattern Book. Published six times a year. 


VOGUE PATTERN BOOK 


Spring Issue .. ‘ Jan. 1 
Early Summer Issue |. |: Mar. 1 
Summer Issue . 5 May 1 


| At All Stores fe News-staads . 
Ordered by Mail 


Early Autumn Issue ... . July : 
Autumn Issue ....... Sept. 1 
Winter Issue . Nov. 1 


35 Cents 
40 Cents 


Sees 








WHAT 


ji: Ge ie § 


VOGUE 


R E A D 


(Continued from page 160) 


Oxwich Bay is written to the rhythm 


‘of the oars of the long ships of the 


Northmen full of armed men, and At 
Bosworth Field is full of the ghosts 
of Welshmen who fought for Henry 
Tudor. A different spirit, of essen- 
tial calm, is in A Song of Calday, de- 
dicated to the Benedictine brethren 
of the great abbey there. Whatever 
the mood in which he works, Mr. 
Prys-Jones is an adept craftsman, an 
estimable voice among our poete 
minores. 


SHADOWS THAT PASS 
by OTTO RUNG 
PUBLISHED BY APPLETON 


Any one would like to read more of 
Frank Thauma. Dark and handsome, 
rich and charming, he might have 
made an outstanding hero. But Otto 
Rung, being a Dane, drowns this one 
bright character early in the book. 

Thauma’s fortune, and thereby hangs 
the tale, is left in trust for the one 
of his companions who, twenty years 
later, shall prove that he can make the 
best use of it. At the end of the stated 
time, each of the group claims the 
legacy, relating the story of his life. 
Most of them are disillusioned legends, 
indeed, acid studies of the failures and 
failings of mankind. Through them 
all the figure of the woman, Gertie 
Gerner, reappears as hauntingly as the 
Fate motif in the Fifth Symphony. 

No less an authority than Georg 
Brandes writes that “Otto Rung is 
the strongest talent of his generation 

. and Shadows That Pass is per- 
haps his strongest work.” Just how 
desirable, in a novel, is the quality of 
strength? The melancholy Danes must 
find it more of a recommendation than 
we do, for Rung, like Hamsun, is apt 
to leave the reader a bit shivery. True, 
this book is relieved by an arresting 
poetic quality, but a bit of the unfav- 
oured Victorian “sweetness and light” 
would be welcome among its groping 
fogs. 


THE SULTAN OF THE MOUNTAINS 
by ROSITA FORBES 
PUBLISHED BY HOLT 


The Brigand-Governor of Morocco, 
Raisuli, has told the story of his life 
to an Englishwoman, herself famous 
as an explorer and lecturer. Like 
Dante, Mrs. Forbes has come back 
through gates that are supposed to 
close behind each man but once. 

The figure of Raisuli is the most 
picturesque that has flashed across the 
pages of modern history. He is some- 
what reminiscent of Robin Hood, who, 
historically, was the last champion of 
the Saxons against the invading Nor- 
mans. Raisuli has poured out his 
years to save his Arab people from the 
encroaching civilizations of France and 
Spain. Like Robin Hood, his work 
has been almost in vain, but he has, 
at least, put up a gallant battle that 
calls for the world’s applause. 

Mrs. Forbes writes vividly, as all 
who read her Secret of the Sahara will 
recall. In this book, with a background 
of the magic towers of Morocco and 
strange halls where Europeans never 
sat before, she surpasses herself. Mere 
fiction is put to shame. 

If for no other reason, Raisuli should 
interest Americans by the fact that he 
is one of the few who ever called 
Theodore Roosevelt’s bluff successfully. 
When the bandit leader kidnapped 
an American, Perdicaris by name, T. 
R. sloganed “‘Perdicaris alive or Raisuli 
dead.” But Raisuli is still very much 
alive, and somebody is poorer by 


seventy thousand dollars ransom. 
The French occupation of North 
Africa, and, even more so, the Spanish 
occupation, never met much sympathy 
in our part of the world. This ac. 
count of the blundering ‘cruelty of 
the invaders inclines our feelings 
doubly to the cause of the tribesmen, 


THE GOLDEN LADDER 
by RUPERT. HUGHES 
PUBLISHED BY HARPER 


Rupert Hughes contributes a nove! 
to the literature of the one American 
woman who has become a tradition 
Like most legendary figures, she was 
scarcely an exemplary one in her own 
day. Betty Bowen was the name with 
which she started life, but she bore 
a variety of aliases before she reached 
the name and dignity of Madame 
Stephen Jumel. 

Betty makes a very vivid heroine 
against a real and very vivid back. 
ground. The gutter was the bottom 
rung of her ladder, and the throne- 
room of royalty was the golden top. 
She spent a definite time on the side- 
walks in between. The shifting sands 
show Paris in the days of the Terror 
and New York amid the wickedness 
and gaiety of a day when cows 
browsed in Wall Street and ladies rode 
in gilded coaches. 

As usual, Mr. Hughes is wordy 
prolix, apt to dash off at any moment 
into byplays and asides. But he has 
handled a ‘vast amount of historical 
material with assurance and reason- 
able accuracy and produces a book that 
is of more than casual interest. His 
own enthusiasm adds vitality to its 
natural drama. 

It is interesting to reflect that all 
the good wives of Providence and 
Gotham are quite forgotten, while an 
utter slut like Betty Bowen has become 
part of her people’s tradition. A few 
hundred years more, and she may be 
as stately a figure as Helen. Alexander 
Hamilton and Aaron Burr, fighting for 
her favours, will be as epic as Mene- 
laus and Paris. Weehawken may even 
become another Troy. 


NOTES 


David Garrett’s A Man in the Zoo 
(Knopf) is scarcely a worthy succes- 
sor to Lady into Fox. The one isa 
definite fantasy, the other a most in- 
definite satire. It has to do with the 
bizarre story of a man who quarrelled 
with his sweetheart and in _ pique 
offered himself to the London Zoo as 
an example of homo sapiens. Though 
behind zoo bars, with a chimpanzee on 
one hand and an ourang on the other. 
the course of true love runs—not 
smoothly—, but to a successful conclu- 
sion. Amusing, but scarcely more. ° 

The old proverb that “all roads lead 
to Rome” might well be altered, nowa- 
days, in favour of Paris. We suggest 
either or both of two new books for 
those who join the merry pilgrimage 
to the Seine. Paris for Everyiian, 
published in this country by Dutton. 
is a handy successor to the now extinct 
Baedecker. It contains briefly the re- 
quired historical notes, while a number 
of large-scale maps make it of unusual 
practical value. Sommerville Story has 
written Dining in Paris (McBride) for 
those to whom Paris means the capi- 
tal of the gourmands. He catalogues 
and dwells on the individual charms 
of over a hundred cafés, from Clat- 
idge’s to the Duval’s, and there is 2” 
interesting chapter on the famous res- 
taurants-of yesteryear. 

T.D.K. 








n. 
North 
panish 
1pathy 
is ac. 
Ity of 
elings 
-smen, 





nove! 
erican 
lition 
e was 
r Own 
» with 

bore 
ached 
dame 


*roine 
back. 
ottom 
rone- 
| top. 
side- 
sands 
error 
dness 
cows 
rode 


ordy 
Ment 
e has 
orical 
ason- 
. that 

His 
0 its 


it all 
and 
le an 
come 
few 
y be 
inder 
g for 
[ene- 
even 


cces- 
is a 
t in- 
1 the 
elled 
pique 
O as 
ough 
e on 
ther 
—not 
iclu- 


lead 
ywa- 
rgest 
. for 
nage 
1an 
tton, 
tinct 
: Te 
nber 
sual 
has 
) for 
api- 
gues 
rms 
‘lar- 
; an 
res- 











AA Spectal Chiffon—with the 


nner-foot—Butlt for Dancing 


7, 





[September 15 





Now, a chiffon stocking that’s made for dancing. 


It’s different in two ways. First, the foot. Outside it’s silk 
from heel to toe—to be worn with the extremely low slipper. 
But inside we have woven an invisible, inner sole, heel and 
toe of very fine lislk—to make it wear as well as it looks. 


Next, each delicate silk thread of the filmy chiffon fabric 
is smoothed by an exclusive process. Take this stocking in 
your hand. Feel its perfect smoothness. There are no tiny 
invisible “whiskers” to catch and pull and start “runs.” You 
can expect much longer wear because of this. 

Here’s an unusual chiffon stocking, well worth remem- 
bering. Ask for it by name in any of the better shops or 
hosiery departments. Allen A No. 3785. 

Extra care is taken in making these chiffons for you. Each 
pair receives a special buyer’s inspection just before packing. 
That's why you’ll find them always even and clear in color 
and weave. You'll like this latest creation from makers of 
fine hosiery for more than two generations. 


Allen A 


Hosiery Underwear 
For Men, Women and Children For Men and Boys Only 


Doo “ALLEN: Ac COMPA NF, 


KENOSHA, 


165 


The Chiffon for Dancing 


Ask for Allen A No. 3785 full fashioned chiffon 
stocking. Extra sheer, all silk, with silk plated 
foot. A complete range of all the latest color shades. 


$00 














WISCONSIN 





1606 








Mo muither what the TGS... 


Enjoy Beautiful Hair 


No matter what the style in which you wear your hair, 
it can be made and kept beeutiiul by faithiul use of 


ED. PINAUD’S 
HAIR TONIC 


) This delightful French Eau de Quinine is 
) fine for dandruff and imparts a refined fragrance. 
For washing the hair 


you should use the latest crea- 
tion cf this famous Parfumeur 


ED. PINAUD’S ELIXIR SHAMPOO 
It demonstrates the French idea of a perfect 
shampoo. Perfumed with Eau de Quinine fragrance. 

Ask us for testing bottles of these fine French 
products. Write today enclosing 10c. for both bottles 


Parfumerie ED. PINAUD 
Dept. 26 
ED. PINAUD Bldg. NEW YORK 
204 King St., East, Toronto 
You should also know ED. PINAUD’S Lilac 
Bath Salts, Lilac Talc, Lilac Vegetal Perfume. 
Please refuse substitutes 






































SHAKS PERE: 


“Piping Pebworth, dancing Marston, 
Haunting Hillborough, and hungry 

Grafton, 
With dodging Exhall, papist Wixford, 
Beggarly Broom,and drunken Bidford.” 
Old rhyme 


HOT day of motoring over the 

Cotswolds starting from Stroud 

—a dull town—and visiting 
Painswick, Broadway, Evesham, and 
other places on the hills, and then 
down to the valley of the Avon, lush, 
green, and cool—this is the perfect end 
to a summer day. There is no country 
site in all England that is so English 
as this elm-studded pastureland di- 
vided by slow-running streams crossed 
by old stone bridges and inhabited by 
peasantry who live in thatch-roofed, 
half-timber cottages surrounded by 
luxuriant little flower-gardens. 

One may stay with comfort at Strat- 
ford-on-Avon or Leamington and pay 
one’s homage. at the sundry shrines. 
After a motor trip to various points of 
interest in the neighbourhood, it is 
pleasant at this time of the year to 
spend an hour or two of the long 
evening roaming through the country 
on foot, for the note of it all is peace, 
and only with peace can one truly ap- 
preciate. 

Clapton Bridge—about which there 
is now a scare—is there to be admired, 
though it was considerably restored 
and widened in the early nineteenth 
century. From the bridge, the view up 
stream is very charming. Of course, 
one visits the birthplace, church, gram- 
mar school, and all the other “sights” 
of Shakspere association but, to see 


VOGUE 


S COUNTRY 


the spirit of the district, go to Charle- 
cote and look at the house with its 
marvellous gate-house dating from Eliza- 
bethan days, built of red brick and 
stone in the manner of those days and 
forming the entrance to a forecourt. 

In the park here, deer may be seen 
roaming—descendants, perhaps, of 
those that Shakspere knew so well. 
Shottery, now a suburb of Stratford, 
must be seen, because Ann Hathaway 
lived here. Near here, too, is Compton 
Winyates, a famous old house typical 
of England. But one does not explore 
this district for the important places, it 
is the little hamlets with simple cottages, 
the brooks’ with meadowsweet and 
for-get-me-not, and the geese-inhabited 
village ponds that give the interest.. To 
spend a pleasant time, one should, after 
one has seen the famous sights which 
no one is allowed to miss, spend time 
finding delights in the country itself, 
Walk out in the evening along the foot- 
paths and return at dusk when the 
cottagers are lighting their evening fires, 
One gathers those scents that are home 
to the British, wherever they may live 
—a whiff of wood smoke, drying hay, 
damp meadows, and madonna lilies 
from a cottage garden—, these give 
that peace to the soul that is to be ac- 
quired in no other way and that dwells 
in the memory with far greater tena- 
city than endless sights, decked, pre- 
pared, and edited by man. One should 
stay in this district, and not rush 
through it, glancing at those things that 
every one else has glanced at, but rest 
and appreciate in calm mood the won- 
derful setting in which Shakspere was 
brought up. 





THE 


HIGHWAY 


TO CHIC 


(Continued from page 62) 


The tricornes found this year in some 
collections, notably at Maria Guy’s, are 
indicative of a throwback to a still 
earlier time, if you will, or merely imply 
that this creator is trying to get away 
from both the square- and the round- 
crown types which have held the mode 
all summer. It is significant that she 
combines a square crown with her 
tricorne brim. She is also trying out 
the off-the-face movement with a novel, 
wrapped brim, tempting to the woman 
with beautiful, youthful eyes who may 
defy the slightest flattering shade. 
These off-the-face hats are only to be 
worn on days when one is conscious 
of looking one’s best; otherwise, they 
are courage sappers and bad for the 
morale. 

With Marthe Collot, the characteris- 
tic movement is one of height, with a 
wrapped effect around the head, slop- 
ing back from the forehead, high on 
one side, and pulled down over the 
ear on the other. An interesting illus- 
tration of this is the hat sketched at 
the top on page 57. It is of black 
velvet blended with two shades of 
nasturtium colour: Since nearly all 
her hats are soft and shapeless in the 
hand, they must be built to the indi- 
vidual head and are, therefore, very 


hard to -duplicate.- Evelyne Varon 
loves to turn her little hats so smartly 
up on one side that they surprise one 
when seen from the front. She, also, 
is interested in the “cabriolet” shapes 
which might have been worn by Eliza- 
beth Bennett and her lovely sister, 
Jane. The newest thing seen at Re- 
boux’s is an interpretation of the beret 
in geranium coloured velvet, pushed 
back off the face to a knot on the right 
side back, where there is a short brush 
of aigrettes to match. This is tre- 
mendously becoming to the right per- 
son, but one must be either extremely 
smart or of a distinctive, picturesque 
type to wear it properly. 

Some of the milliners gave me an 
interesting side-light on the question 
of bobbed hair. “Yes,” they said, 
“several of our clients have begun to 
let a long lock grow in the back, just 
enough to make a tiny chignon to hold 
a diamond pin or two. But, when 
they come in to buy a new hat and find 
that they need a larger head-size, manv 
of them go right to the coiffeur and 
have the lock cut off again. Heads 
must be as small as ever, for nothing 
else looks smart with the present type 


of dress.” 
M. H. 








harle. 
th its 
Eliza- 
. and 
S and 
rt. 

» Seen 
; « 
well, 
tford, 
away 
ipton 





ical 
plore 
es, it 
ages, 
and 
bited 
ho 
after 
rhich 
time 
tself, 
foot- 

the 
fires, 
10Me 
live 
hay, 
lilies 
give 
» aCe 
vells 
ena- 
pre- 
ould 
rush 
that 
rest 
von- 
was 


ron 
rtly 
one 
Iso, 
[pes 
iza- 
ster, 
Re- 
pret 
hed 
ght 
ush 
Tre- 
er=- 
ely 
que 


ion 
Lid, 

to 
ust 
old 
1en 
nd 
nv 
nd 
ids 


ing 











September 15 


pec BANE LE OOM: 


Wp iniin PIO 


Lyra 


Send for our attractive booklet, “A New 
Way to Brush Your Hair,’’ which con- 
tains instructions on the care of the hair. 










A new hair brush 


that gives each hair its full shave of cave 


The brushing surface of this new brush is wave-like in 
design—it does more than brush the surface of your hair. 
It separates the hair into strands as it brushes with through- 
and-through thoroughness. It unsnarls and untangles on 
its road from root to tip, leaving the hair softly smooth. 

Yet there. is more than a surface difference—both in the 
brush and in the hair it brushes. The Pro-phy-lac-tic Stranzit 
Hair Brush has strength and power in every line and bristle. 
The bristles are long and springy, reaching through the 
thickest hair to the scalp itself. For those reasons your hair 
responds to it with more than a surface response. 

As you brush with the Stranzit, you change the lazy, 
sluggish feeling of your scalp into glowing activity. Vigor- 
ous health, vital life in each hair and root ate yours with 
the Stranzit. Buy it; try it—a new gloss and sheen and 
beauty, a new loveliness for your hair, come with this new 
kind of brush and brushing. Prices, $2.00 and up. 


FLORENCE MANUFACTURING CO., FLORENCE, MASS. 
Makers of the famous Pro-phy-lac-tic Tooth Brush 


Stranzit Hair Brush 


167 





Daintiness ... 


Youth !! 


Apply Pryde Cream 
to the back of neck, 
arms, underarms, 
limbs— then with 
plain water, rinse 
the hair away. 


h, 4th" 










Maus” 





Here itis oA | 
a quick, pleasant way 
to remove haw! 


A Cream! Smooth, cool, harmless. ‘And 
as easy to use as powdering your nose! 


Just imagine it! 
hair—gently and pleasantly, as a true toilet article 
should. No harshness, no mixing. Nothing to melt. 
Merely press from the tube and apply as you would 
a favorite cold cream. Then after a few minutes, 
rinse it off with ordinary water. The hair goes with 
it. And the skin is left cool, refreshed, free from 
odor, whitened, and as smooth as satin. 


Pryde is the name of this new cream. And it means 
so much, yet the cost is so little. 50c obtains a 
much larger tube than usual. And no method, how- 
ever costly, does more than remove hair as its 
growth requires it. Pryde, in addition, discourages 
further growth; and is a quicker, easier, inexpensive 
way. Your Department Store or Druggist can sup- 
ply you. Or send 50c direct to the Laboratory, under 
guarantee of satisfaction or refund. ‘‘What Every 
Woman Should Know” all about hair removal, in- 
cluded with each order; in plain wrapper. Address, 
Pryde Pharmacal Co., 105 Broadway, Hannibal, Mo. 





Removes hair pleasantly. 


A refined cream that removes ° 





ef REAL JEWEL YOU WILL TREASURE 


{LLURING ‘DAINTY IRRESISTIBLE . 


MOTHER OF ‘PEARL LOVELINESS 


Thole 


$1.50 
ail ELIEY 


VANITIES 


NON-MI LL V-TAR NISHABLE-VERY LIGHT WEIGH] 


PAK 1 


A Nanity Evolution that Created a Sensation 








THE WAY 


ROUND 


VOGUE 


PARIS 


The Other Paris Churches 


By PHILIP CARR 


Editor's Note: This is one of a 
sertes of articles on present-day 
Paris that Vogue is publishing for 
the benefit of its readers who are 
planning a European trip 


'\ , T HETHER one looks at Notre- 
Dame from within or without, 
from up the river or down the 

river, from across its great square, or 

from the inside of its splendid nave, it 
has so much to stir the romantic and 
historical imagination and feed the love 
of architectural beauty that one is 
tempted to visit no other church in 

Paris. Like the Louvre among the Paris 

museums, it tends to monopolize all 

the attention that one can give to Paris 
churches. 

And yet, there are many others that 
have beauty and grace worth going far 
to see. There are not only gems of 
architecture, like the Sainte-Chapelle, 
sacred repositories of early historical 
tradition, like Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 
or landmarks of more recent history, 
like the Louis XVI. chapel and the 
Sacré-Coeur, but also centres of the life 
of modern Paris, like the Madeleine. 
For, sharp as is the division between 
the Catholic and non-Catholic elements 
in French society, the church still re- 
tains its hold on an important propor- 
tion of the people, and its share in the 
life of the nation is worth examining. 
The division between the two church 
parties may be rather well typified by 
the two underground railways of Paris, 
the Metropolitan, where the stations 
have secular names for all the streets, 
and the Nord-Sud, where they nearly 
all have the names of churches. A 
tour of some of these other churches of 
Paris will prove an interesting venture, 
guided by the neighbourhoods in which 
they are found. 


A CHURCH OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY 


Such a tour might begin on the 
parvis, or square, of Notre-Dame, after 
one has just visited the Cathedral. If 
one crosses the river to the south bank, 
one catches a glimpse of the little 
twelfth-century church of Saint Julien 
le Pauvre on the far side on an open 
space which, until a few years ago, 
was filled with tortuous and narrow old 
streets. This is the church where the 
University of Paris first held itssittings, 
and where, twice a year, the royal pro- 
vost used to be received, in order that 
he should swear to preserve the privi- 
leges of the rector, masters, and schol- 
ars. It was a priory as long ago as the 
sixth century, and, even in its present 
form, it dates back to the twelfth 
century, although much of it has been 
altered since then. After the seat of the 
University moved up the hill of Sainte- 
Geneviéve, it became an annex of the 
great Paris hospital, the Hétel-Dieu, 


_which still has its main building on the 


far side of the Notre-Dame parvis. It 
became a church once more in 1826, 
and since then it has been used for the 
worship of the Greek community. It is 
one of the most delightful corners of 
early mediaeval atmosphere left in Paris. 

A few steps from Saint Julien le 
Pauvre, one arrives at the Church 
of Saint Severin, a fine Gothic building, 
which stands on the site of an oratory 
dating certainly back to the seventh 
century and possibly to the fourth. This 
is, perhaps, the oldest site of a church 
in Paris, with the exception of Notre- 
Dame. Its thirteenth-century western 
doorway and porch were brought here 


in 1837 and originally belonged to the 
Church of Saint Pierre. aux Beeufs, 
which was demolished at that date. 
One must go inside to recognize what 
a masterpiece of Gothic lightness and 
harmony this little church is, and then 
pass out into the little presbytery gar- 
den, between its high walls and its 
cloister, to see one of those delightful 
little havens of peace and antiquity 
which are to be found behind the 
throbbing, busy life of Paris. 

From Saint Severin, the way leads 
to the Place Saint-Michel, across th« 
bridge, and there, in the middle of the 
modern buildings of the Palais de Jus- 
tice, is the most delightful gem of 
Gothic architecture that all Paris has 
to show, the Sainte-Chapelle of Saint 
Louis. It was built between 1245 and 
1250, and it is amazing that, in the 
successive sieges and fires which have 
destroyed nearly the whole of the an- 
cient buildings of the Palais de Justice, 
it has succeeded in remaining virtually 
undamaged. The signature of Saint 
Louis appears in the fleur-de-lys on the 
embrasure of the door by which on 
enters, alternated with the Castilian 
Tower of his mother, Blanche of Cas- 
tile. This decorative motif is repeated 
again and again in the brilliant painted 
decoration of the interior of the Cha- 


‘pelle, which has been restored with 


such knowledge and reverent feeling 
that it illustrates the illuminated sense 
of colour of the mediaeval church 
architects better than the hundreds of 
churches where this colour has been 
covered up by the cold whitewash of 
later generations. 

In the same way, the jewelled panes 
of the thirteenth-century windows, al- 
though they also have been partly 
restored in the nineteenth century, give 
us a further taste of the brilliant, 


~ heraldic colour which the Middle Ages 


loved. The Chapelle is no longer used 
for religious services, and nearly all its 
interior furniture, its high altar, its 
rood-loft, and its choir stalls disap- 
peared in the furnace of the Revolution. 
However, the building itself and _ its 
colour are enough to set the imagina- 
tion aglow. 


THE PANTHEON 


Crossing the bridge again to the 
south side and walking up the Boule- 
vard Saint-Michel, one comes to the 
Panthéon, at the end of a street which 
turns off to the left. Until the middle 
of the eighteenth century, the abbey 
church of Sainte-Geneviéve, the patron 
saint of Paris, stood close to this spot; 
but it had fallen into ruin, and, profiting 
by the contempt into which the Gothic 
style had descended at that time, the 
architect, Soufflot, persuaded the abbot 
and the chapter to abandon the historic 
church for a new building in the classi- 
cal style, which, with the help of the 
king and with money raised by a tax 
on public lotteries, Soufflot proceeded to 
construct. He had already committed the 
vandalism of cutting away the magnif- 
icent Gothic western portal of Notre- 
Dame to build an entrance in that same 
classical style. Fortunately, this portal 
was subsequently destroyed and _ the 
original Gothic front restored by Viol- 
let-le-Duc; but Soufflot’s Church of 
Sainte-Geneviéve remains, and_ its 
rather ponderous dome is the outstand- 
ing feature in the sky-line of the Latin 
quarter of Paris. The Revolution came 
before the church could be completed 
and consecrated, and the government 
decreed that it should become a resting- 

(Continued on page 170) 








VE 


Ss 


ig 














September 15 169 





aN 


ter 
TROL Ty, 
oS CSS OTA ee ee a 


a” 


{ es =) ‘ J ay { aie ge ‘Pe he; ES 
Tr J : £ f i \F 4 . ' 
OITA (ICRU T ET : » ' : f P a 

eke a pe TEU CSOT a | é Dim y } A << RATE, > 









T AVANNES Watches 
may be had in a wide 
range of fashionable 
styles. Prices from $25 
to $1000. 


A beautiful booklet giv- 
ing illustrations, prices 
and descriptions will 
be mailed on request. 
If your jeweler does not: 
a Tavannes, please 
send us his name and 


address. 





No. 1712-17 Jewel NS 


14K green gold filled, raised numer- 
* Sera eis $40.00 


With ar jewels ee ; $70.00 
14K white gold filled, 17 jewel, 
$42.50 













raised numerals . . 
With 2tjewels .- $75.00 


: No. 21 
Waa «i Man’s Strap Watch, 
ies Yomncglomed keaeane as ne Sterling Silver, Radium 
A 7 ( y S p dial $32.50 
Sa OF Me Ne. 14K solid green gold 
$65.00 





~e 
“ae. * 
























THE ONE BEST GIFT 
FOR STUDENTS 


14K solid white gold, en- 
ameled case, $50.00 





14K gold filled engrav- Now the youth of the land, with high hopes and noble resolves, start 
CACASE. +s ccee- $35.00 . . : 
the new school year. Surely an occasion to celebrate by a worth-while gift. 
Something appropriate, something beautiful—a gift to last a lifetime! 
No. 678 


A Tavannes watch will do its part in forming that difficult but necessary 
habit of getting to class on time. 


Tavannes watches come in such a wide range of models ana prices that 
a handsome gift can be selected to suit every taste and every purse. And 
whether you choose a plain strap watch or an elaborate, jeweled affair, 
the artistic beauty of the case truly expresses the refinement and accuracy 
of the hidden mechanism. 

Tavannes watches seldom need repair. But when accidents occur, re- 
pairs are quickly and easily made, anywhere, for all parts in every model 
are interchangeable and readily available. 








Reg. U.S. 
Pat. Off. 





ADOLPHE SCHWOB, Inc., 45 Maiden Lane, New York. Established 1874. Branches: Chicago, San Francisco. 








170 











...and you don’t need a king’s ransom 
W. HY not spend the rest of the summer in a floating home 


of your own—free to go where you will, with companions 
of your own choosing, with all the comforts of a hotel? Then 
South to Chesapeake Bay; and on to Florida! 
You don’t need a king’s ransom—a call at Port Elco will prove 
to you that all yachtsmen need not be millionaires. You can 
buy this 45-ft. Eleo Cruiser for only $12,850; and operate it 
for a whole year—including club dues, mooring, storage and 

spring overhaul—for less than $1,600! 

And if you wish, you can have your boat tomorrow! Elco 
Standardized construction means immediate delivery. Come 
to Port Elco and inspect all the Elco Standardized Models— 
or write for catalog—now. 


Correspondence should be addressed to: 
PORT ELCO— Division of Sales and Exhibits 


247 Park Avenue and 107 East 46th Street 
Telephone Vanderbilt 2320 NEW YORK CITY 


THE ELCO WORKS, BAYONNE, NEW JERSEY 


f 














Suit, Overcoat | ‘ 
and Cap to Match” 


‘78 


Overcoat . . $40 
Suit $35; Cap $3 


Smartest. Most 


serviceable. Made 
of durable, all-wool 
Oxford Gray Whip- 
cord. All strictly in 
keeping with motor- 
dom’s latest fashion. 


Send for Booklet Chart 
and Measure Form. 
Shows what the well 
groomed Chauffeur 
should —_ Easy to 
order by mail. 


ukkh Brsthervs 


Broadway at 49th Street 
America’s Headquarters for Chauffeurs’ Apparel 








VOGUE 


THE. WAY ROUND PARIS 


(Continued from page 168) 


place for national heroes and should 
be called the Panthéon. The ashes 
of Voltaire, Mirabeau, Rousseau, and 
Marat were placed there. In 1806, 
however, Napoleon handed it over to 
the Church, to be followed in 1830 by 
Louis Philippe, under whom it became 
a national mausoleum once more; in 
1851, by Napoleon III., who again 
transferred it to Catholic worship; and 
in 1885 by the republican government, 
who returned it finally to what it still 
remains, a temple to the memory of the 
great men of France, with its famous 
inscription—“Aux grands Hommes la 
Patrie reconnaissante.” 

From here, it is only a step to the 
Church of Saint-Etienne-du-Mont, a 
curiously interesting Renaissance struc- 
ture, which replaces an earlier chapel, 
built by the abbot of the rich founda- 
tion of Sainte-Geneviéve as a place of 
worship for his servants and tenants. 
The building is very picturesque and 
architecturally important both within 
and without. The florid choir-screen, 
or jubé, with its winding staircases 
and different levels and carved balus- 
trades, is one of the most notably 
characteristic things in this church, 
so full of transitions between the 
Gothic and Renaissance styles. 


A CHURCH OF OLD TRADITIONS 


On the same side of the river, but on 
the other side of the Boulevard Saint- 
Michel and beyond the Luxembourg, 
will be found the heavy, but rather im- 
posing, Church of Saint-Sulpice, in a 
classical style which suggests Saint 
Paul’s in London, without the genius 
of Christopher Wren. It is perhaps 
chiefly worth visiting to-day for that 
atmosphere of the old tradition of 
Catholic families of the Faubourg Saint- 
Germain which permeates the whole 
quarter in which it stands. 

From here, one walks a little way 
down the hill to what is historically 
perhaps the most notable church in 
Paris, that of the former abbey of Saint- 
Germain-des-Prés. A part of the tower 
is said to be so old as to have resisted 
the flames of the earlier Norman in- 
vasions in the ninth century, but the 
church as we see it belongs to the 
eleventh and twelfth centuries, although 
parts of it were added as late as the 
seventeenth century. The abbey, which, 
in the old days, was outside the walls 
of Paris, was enormously rich. It had 
its own prison and pillory, and its 
abbot was a feudal lord whose power 
extended over the greater part of the 
district of the Ile de France. His abbey 
was virtually a fortress, and the build- 
ing, which is the only important sur- 
viving example in Paris of the Roman- 
esque style, shows how well that style 
lends itself to the combination of for- 
tress and church. 

The Marais, although not the oldest 
quarter in the city, is the one which 
is most full of old buildings and har- 
bours a group of old churches on the 
right bank of the river. There is Saint- 
Eustache, which is just by the Halles, 
or central markets. Like Saint-Etienne- 
du-Mont, Saint-Eustache is in style a 
transition between Gothic and Renais- 
sance. The funeral services of two 
great men were held here—that of La 
Fontaine at the end of the seventeenth 
century, and of Mirabeau at the end of 
the eighteenth. It is unofficially recog- 
nized to-day as being the church of the 
actors of the Comédie Frangaise. 

Going from the markets to the Hétel 
de Ville, one passes at the Chatelet the 
beautiful Gothic Tour Saint Jacques, 
which is architecturally worth notice 
as being the very latest pure expression 


of the Gothic style. It was originally 
the tower of a church which was de- 
stroyed in 1797, and the tower itself was 
only saved from destruction by a 
public-spirited architect insisting that, 
when the government sold the building 
for demolition, the tower should be pre- 
served. Just beyond the Hotel de Ville 
stands Saint-Gervais, with its classical 
west facade, behind which is a delight- 
ful old Gothic church. This church has 
become famous in our own time from 
the fact that a German shell struck it 
on Good Friday, 1918, during the cele- 
bration of mass, and killed two hun- 
dred people. From here, following the 
rue Saint-Martin, one can reach the 
Church of Saint Merri, which has a 
picturesque late-Gothic west front and 
some beautiful sixteenth-century stained 
glass windows. Further on in the same 
street are the remains of the church 
and abbey of Saint-Martin-des-Chamyps, 
which was transformed into the Con- 
servatoire des Arts et Métiers at the 
time of the Revolution. The beautiful 
old refectory, which is now the library 
of this church, was built by Pierre de 
Montereau. 

There is another group of churches 
within easy reach of the various hotels 
in the neighbourhood of the rue de 
Rivoli. The most famous of these is 
Saint Germain I’Auxerrois, opposite the 
eastern end of the Louvre. It was from 
its beautiful and delicate belfry that 
the fatal bell sounded for the signal of 
the massacre of Saint Bartholomew. 
Saint-Roch, in the rue Saint-Honoré, 
has no great architectural beauties, but 
is interesting for its historical associa- 
tions, and especially for the fact that 
on its steps were massed the political 
opponents of Napoleon Bonaparte, 
whom he dispersed by his bold coup of 
the fifth of October, 1795. At the other 
end of the rue Saint-Honoré is the 
Church of the Assumption, formerly the 
chapel of a convent, which was the 
fashionable place of education and re- 
ligious retreat for the aristocratic 
classes of the seventeenth and eight- 
eenth centuries. Its little forecourt, 
hitherto hidden from the street by a 
wall, has just recently been thrown 
open into a square, which is overlooked 
by the famous restaurant, Voisin. 


WHERE SMART MARRIAGES TAKE PLACE 


The Madeleine, that rather ponder- 
ous imitation of a Greek temple which 
stands at one of the busiest traffic cen- 
tres in Paris, was begun in the eight- 
eenth century, but was not finished 
until 1842. It is peculiar in having no 
windows and in being lit through the 
green glass of its roof; but, except that 
it is the church for the most fashion- 
able marriages, it has no special inter- 
est. The same may be said of the 
churches of Saint Philippe du Roule, 
which is further west, and Saint-Augus- 
tin, which is further along the Boule- 
vard Malesherbes. There is a certain 
tragic historical atmosphere, however, 
abou: the Expiatory Chapel of Louis 
XV1I., which is to be found in the same 
neighbourhood, in a shady square open- 
ing out of the Boulevard Haussmann. 
On this site was a cemetery, where all 
the best-known victims of the guillo- 
tine at the time of the Revolution were 
buried. 

A far more important expiatory mon- 
ument is the white stone Church of the 
Sacré-Coeur, which dominates the whole 
of Paris from the top of the Montmar- 
tre hill. Viewed from almost any point 
in the city, it seems to catch the light 
of the sun or, of the moon and to 
remind Parisians of their humiliation 
in 1870 and their recovery in 1918. 








Qt ume OD ERP DS 


= 


— a — a 8 ' 








September 15 


STROOCK © 


100% Sure Fine Virgin 


CAMELS HAIR CLOTH 


This is the fabric which Fashion has 
decreed shall be worn for all outdoor 
occasions because it has style and is 
always smart in appearance. 


It is the fabric which Common Sense 
has chosen because it is the acme of 
comfort—soft, light, warm—the ideal 
fabric for every type of outdoor 
apparel. 
Many styles, weaves, designs, 
colors, weights— 


All 100% pure, fine Camels Hair 













“The Romance of Camels Hair Cloth”? is a fascin- 
ating illustrated booklet, mailed upon request. 
$$ S. Stroock & Co., Inc., 315 Fourth Avenue, New York 


This label in a garment 
identifies the genuine 














SOS BANS ANSS BNE, NSVS BSS BSS BSS BSUS BSS NSS BNSE 


: 
t 
A 
in 





comfort. 

straight lines which 
lends a graceful poise 
and trim appearance 
to the wearer. 


The elastic panel at 
the side allows perfect 











F-3129 at $1.50 - freedom at the waist 

IS and other similar models without disturbing the 

made in a variety of materials — ioht fi li f 
Silk Stripe Batiste—Jersey Silk — straight figure lines oO 

Treco Mesh—Suede—Sateens—etc. front and back. It is 
Prices range from $1.00 to $10.00 at particularly adaptable 

all corset departments. : 

to many figures—an 


FREE unusual feature in a 
Write forthe Latest Illustrated Style Book single garment. 


(©o the woman of re- 
- finement,this‘H&W” 
The “H. &W.” Company, Newark, N. J. 


brassiere offers more 

than ordinarystyle and 

The garment is built 

on unusually long, 
BRASSIERES :: CORSETS :: CORSET SPECIALTIES 
REA] 




















172 





OVALETTS 


The Really 
Com-pact 
Com-pact! 














EXCEEDINGLY THIN ... 
EXQUISITELY BEAUTIFUL. 


The last word in compacts—gracefully tapered to fit 
into those little corners where ordinary compacts would 
be too bulky. Occupies less space, and yet holds much 
more powder and rouge than other compacts. In 
beautiful, lustrous gunmetal, $1.25 for the 2 inch size, 
$1.50 for the 2!4 inch size. With orange border, $1.50 
and $1.75. At leading department stores, or direct from 
Since 1909 















uS. 





AKLAR ORANGOL Vf an} y 
changeable Lip Stick 1 “N a 
$1.00 eg 









5 East 19th Street () 
New York 






SS GDS NOS WL CO 








ty 


4 


ewe 


| 
| 
| 


The presence of Oshkosh Luggage in a 
cabin is quietly indicative of the occu- 
pant’s membership in the traveled elect. 


OSHKOSH J5= 


wardrobe trunks r 


batt ——< 


Write for Booklet G 








LE 


“TI confess they never had a Scene at all, 

They wanted no copy, they had th’ 
original, 

For the windowes being down, and 
most part of the roof, 

How could they want Scenes, when 
they had prospect enough?” 


HUS, Jo Hayns described the 

strolling players of his time, 

three centuries ago, those bands 
of gay vagabonds who tramped the 
roads of merry England, heralded by 
a wag of a drummer hurrying in ad- 
vance to distribute hand-bills and to 
drum up trade. Those were the days 
when barnstorming was truly barn- 
storming, when the strollers, with or 
without constable’s sanction, played on 
hay-strewn floors to the tune of an 
occasional neigh or moo from behind 
scenes. And they gave other perform- 
ances—more lucrative and comfortable 
ones—on grand estates under the pa- 
tronage of court ladies, such as the 
performance at Tunbridge Wells for 
Charles II.’s lovely queen. 

It was up and down, then, for the 
players following the trail of the gipsy 
patteran. And now, when the strolling 
mummers of old England have almost 
become a myth, New England has a 
group of the same kind of adventurers 
who have slipped into the seven-league 
boots, as it were, of their ancestors in 
the spirit. But, because the magic boots 
for the modern strollers are Ford 
trucks, and because these present-day 
Macklins and Booths are splendidly 
equipped and royally received as they 
drive from town to town—, it is mostly 
up and very little down for them. 

The Jitney Players, as they style 
themselves, gathered together in the 
summer of 1923 under the leadership 
of Bushnell Cheney and his wife, Alice 
Keating, of New York and Madison, 
Connecticut. They are a group of ama- 
teurs and professionals who, to put it 
in their own words, ‘“‘were blessed with 
the love of vagabondage and cursed 
with the love of our profession” and 
who found that “the paths of our loves 
lay not together.”” Therefore, when the 
hot summer months drove the social 
world away from the cities of theatres 
to green fields and golden beaches, what 
did they do but pack an excellent 
equipment in two trucks and take to 
the road. Their aim was to carry 
“the spoken drama to those communi- 
ties in New England where it has 
heretofore been impossible to produce 
professional productions.” And _ the 
results of the summer of 1923 and of 
this summer, which is slipping into 
autumn, prove that they have succeeded 
delightfully. 


A STAGE ON WHEELS 


Though the spirit of the old strolling 
player flourishes in this band, one must 
not make the mistake of supposing the 
Jitney Players are a haphazard, vaga- 
bond lot, out at the elbows in technique 
and properties. Not at all; they are a 
versatile, well-trained group, with ex- 
cellent diction and the ability to give a 
smooth, yet vivacious, -performance. 
And their stage—ah, if Holcroft or Jo 
Hayns could look at the truck that 
holds, like the magic chest at the bot- 
tom of the Midnight Sea, every wished- 
for possibility ! 

The supply truck carries an elaborate 
electrical equipment, tents, individual 
baggage, and a stove. But the other 
truck is truly the wonder wagon, in- 
vented by Mr, Cheney, Its sides drop 


dd 


VOGUE 
P LAYERS 


down and, supported by hinged legs, 
make a flat stage sixteen feet across 
and eleven feet deep. The tail-board 
is lowered to the ground, revealing a 
flight of steps. Canvas roof, curtains, 
and a cyclorama in back complete the 
stage. Thus, these moderns with their 
theatre on wheels and their fat cos- 
tume trunks are far better off than 
those “ragged fellows ... that bor- 
rowed the red blanket off my bed to 
make their mayor a gown,” as Thomas 
Nabbes says in his Covent Garden. 

But the Jitney Players are recruited 
from very much the same circles as 
those “fellows” in the time of Covent 
Garden. From the theatre and from 
the universities, they have come. The 
call of the gipsy stage seems always 
to have been a strong one for under- 
graduates. In John O’Keefe’s Beggar 
on Horseback, written in 1785, we see 
the young hero running away from 
Oxford to join the players. And now, 
in this present-day company, there are 
one Williams man, three Yale men, 
and six Harvard men—largely of the 
47 Workshop. Several of the young 
women have had dramatic study in 
Europe, and almost all have had some 
stage experience. 


AN EXCELLENT REPERTORY 


And the plays they give are experi- 
enced plays—not hackneyed one-acts, 
worn bare by years of amateur per- 
formance, but not, on the other hand, 
helter-skelter “confections.” In _ their 
repertory, they number “The Red 
Feathers,” a comedy with music, by 
A. A. Milne, “Torches,” a jewel of 
Renaissance romance by Kenneth Rais-~ 
beck, “My Lady’s Lace,” by Edward 
Knoblock, an episode from ‘““My Lady’s 
Dress,” a longer play, ““The Loan of a 
Lover,” which—like “Fashion,” now 
playing in New York—is a farce 
comedy revival, by J. R. Planché 
Then, they include two favoured plays 
from the bill of last season, Ben Hecht’s 
“The Wonder Hat” and Kenneth 
Goodman’s “Creatures of Impulse,” a 
charming little fifty-year-old comedy 
with songs by Sir William Gilbert. 

These young players are unusually 
blessed in having for a coach Samuel 
Merwin, the well-known author, whose 
latest book, Silk, is about to be 
dramatized. Their success is, in a 
great measure, due to his help, for 
he not only coached them in their 
headquarters at Madison, Connecticut, 
but travelled with them on some of 
their trips. 

These trips have led them to many 
interesting and beautiful parts of New 
England. And, just as the court ladies 
of Shakspere’s time and of the Restora- 
tion sponsored the strollers and gave 
them the use of their greenswards, so, 
to-day, women of fashion have aided 
the players with their gracious hos- 
pitality. In early August, the Jitney 
Players played on the estate of Miss 
Elizabeth Perkins, at York Harbor, 
and, at Beverly Farms and Marble- 
head, on the estates of Mrs. William 
Aldrich and Mrs. Francis Crownin- 
shield. Later, they toured Cape Cod 
and, at the end of August, came to 
Newport, where their imposing list of 
patronesses included the names of Mrs. 
Arthur Curtiss James, Mrs. Howard 
Spencer Graham, Mrs. John Elliott, 
Mrs. Robert Potter, Miss Lucille 
Edgar, and Mrs. Grinnell. The last 
performance of August brought them 
12 the estate of Mrs. I. Peace Hazard, 


at Narragansett Pier. 
D. R. G. 


wry 











September 15 





—PeSaG. 


REG U-S: PAT OFFICE 





are sold exclusively 
from Boston 








iN 


























$11) 





In black kid. Perfect fit. Order 
No. 9103. State size, number and 
width. $11. 


The Thayer McNeil Plastic 
helps the foot to help itself— 
made for us exclusively to suit 
the best medical opinion; the 
best-looking comfort shoe you 
ever saw. And the price of 
this shoe is only $11. Black 
kid. Send us your size or 
order from 


FREE CATALOGUE 


Styles and prices. Write today. Car- 
riage-free delivery to all U. §. A. 


60 Tempte Prace, Boston, Mass. 


‘THAYER 





























Eee cached 
= 


IW 





Impenal i a Gentlewoma 
a: 


Gi 































































The Fleeting 
Fragrance of Summer 


The beauty of the Summer Flowers will soon be but a 
memory, but their exquisite fragrance has been impounded 
in dainty bottles for “Her Majesty the American Woman.” 


All the elusive delicacy of fleeting bud and blossom will be 
found in these delightful perfumes. 

Down through the ages feminine charm and delicate scents have 
been inseparable. Each Imperial Product has a distinct individu- 


ality. Select the scent you like best and let it become a part of 
your personality. 


IMPERIAL SCENTS ARE 


Jasmin, Lilas Supreme, Virginia Boquet, Fiori d’Italia, Violette de 
Parme, Brise de Mai, Rose de France, Chypre, Narcisse and ‘Orange 
Blossom’’—the newest scent—exclusive to Imperial Products. 

$5 and $6 the ounce 


Write us if your favorite shoppe can not supply you 


The Imperial Pt 
Winding Why and Valley Lane >" Cincinnati: Ohio 


York Office ~ 347 Fifth Avenue ~ New York City 





Jasmir™ 






Products Company 



























































IN NEW YORK 


THERE are more hotels in New York than leaves on the Tree of Knowl- 
edge. But it isn’t always easy to pick the one most appropriate to your 
temperament, the occasions of your trip, your purse. Unless you experi- 
mented for a lifetime of trips, you couldn’t cover the field—and when 


you had—it wouldn’t be there but yonder. 


The Travel Man knows all the hotels by their nicknames. Tell him how 
long you’re going to stay, what you’re going to do, how much you want to 
pay. He’ll suggest a hotel. And make reservations too, if you want. Why 


not try it? 


CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 


21 West 44th Street 


NEW YORK CITY 
























Dr.WALTERS 


Famous for more than 20 years 


HIP GIRDLE: daintily made of cream colored 
rubber, boned and strongly reinforced in 
the front to insure flat appearance. Reduces 
hips and thighs. Having no cloth attach- 
ments it can be kept clean and fresh, 
thereby making it absolutely sanitary. 
Send hip measure. Price $10.00 


REDUCING CORSET GIRDLE: for reducing 


5 


waist line, abdomen, hips and thighs. Send 


Hip Girdle waist and hip measure. Price $12.00 
annem Chin reducer 2.50 
aS. lth Sect §~=  ANKLETS: per pair $7.00 Extra high $9.00 
San Francisco: Send ankle measurement. 
Adele Miter Write to Dr. Jeanne B. Walter, Pres., 
ge for illustrated ‘booklet 
. Filene’s Sons Co. 7 y 
were JEANNE WALTER, INC. 
Saks&Co., Ine. § 389 Fifth Avenue New York 





Corset Girdle 





Anklets 
































173 





© 
Does bobbing 
cause 
baldness? 


‘A man’s hair cut means a man’s 
bald spot.” 
One hears that on all sides! 


Hair specialists—many of them— 
agree that constant clipping discour- 
ages the growth of the hair as too 
frequent pruning ruins the plant. 
And while one may conceal sparse- 
ness of locks when one’s hair is long, 
she of the bobbed tresses is as help- 
less as her brother should her hair 
become thin. 






The time to avoid the unsightly thin- 
ness, the tell-tale bald-spot, is before 
the hair begins to fall. 

The Jane E. Curran hair tonics will 
assure you a luxuriant growth of hair 
—freedom from dandruff and exces- 
sive oil. 

Tonics for Falling Hair and Dry 
Scalp; for Dandruff and Scalp Irrita- 
tion; for Excessive Oil; including 
complete Home Treatment — are 
offered at the leading department 
stores, 






A Few Enthusiastic Users of 
Jane E. Curran Hair Tonics 


Mrs. Cornelius Bliss 

Mrs. James A. Burden 

Miss Clara Cudahy 

Mrs. Payne W hitney 

Mrs. Whitney Warren 

Mrs. George Harvey 

Mrs. R. Van Rensselaer Kennedy 
Marquisa de Pia del Rio 

Mrs. H. H. Rogers 

Mrs. Elihu Root, Jr. 


rE Camany 


If you are in doubt as to the tonic you requtre, 
write Miss Jane E, Curran, 30 Church Street, 
and she will advise P ya Send for free book- 
let, ‘The Secret of Beautiful Hair.’’ 


JANE E. CURRAN, Inc. 


30 Church Street, New York 








174 





7 a\\ 


On ny Trip 


HETHER motoring to the country 

or seashore, or taking a journey 
by steamer or train, the Daisy DeLuxe 
(the only hat bag whick opens and 
closes with the patented hookless fas- 
tener) is indispensable to carry extra 
hats and other wearing apparel, as 
well as toilet articles. That’s why one 
sees them wherever women travel. 

This smart, light weight and durable 
piece of luggage is made of the best 
patent-leather fabric and attractively 
lined with cretonne. RAINPROOF—- 
DUSTPROOF. 

Prices range from $3.50 to $6.00 for the 
Daisy DeLuxe and Daisy Button Models in 
three sizes—16, 18 and 20 inches. 

At leading department stores, luggage and 
specialty shops. 

Look for the Daisy label on the handle. 


The DAISY PRODUCTS, Inc. 
New York City 


haisy HAT BAGS, 












Gray Hair 


















































in 
IS minutes 
Tourists returning 


from Europe first 
brought to this coun- 
try the tint which in 15 min- 
utes banishes gray hair per- 
manently. Today Inecto 
Rapid Notox created by 
science expressly for coloring 
the sensitive organism of 
human hair, is available to 
every American woman. 
Inecto Rapid Notox is spe- 
cifically guaranteed to reclaim 
permanently the original color 
of gray, streaked or faded 
hair. It may be had in 18 
shades, from radiant blonde 
to raven black; and even 
under the closest scrutiny its 
application cannot be de- 
tected: It will neither rub 
off nor be affected by sham- 
pooing, permanent waving, 
curling, salt water, perspira- 
tion, sunshine or Turkish or 
Russian baths. 

The highest class Hairdressers 
from coast to coast use and 
endorse Inecto Rapid Notox 
as do the many thousands of 
American women who apply 
it with invariable success 
within the privacy of their 
own homes. 


SEND NO MONEY 


Merely ask us to send you 
full particulars about Inecto 
Rapid Notox and our Beauty 
Analysis Chart C19 

TNECTO, Inc. 
Laboratories and 


Salons 
33-35 West 46th 
Street, 
New York, N. Y. | 
Sold by best Beauty | 
| 























§ Shops, Drug and 
Department Stores 


Banished : 





Are you changing your address? 





Don't forget to notify 


VOGUE 


Have you been receiving Vogue at your summer country 
home? Then you are probably planning to return to 
town shortly. The autumn fashion numbers of Vogue 
(beginning September 1) are all-important. Naturally, 
you do not want to miss a single one. 

Unlike letters, magazines are not forwarded by the post 
office. Therefore, if you subscribe to Vogue and wish to 
receive your copies at your autumn address, you should 
give Vogue’s subscription department at least 


Three weeks’ notice 


so that your address may be corrected in our files and your 
copies of Vogue may be sent direct to your autumn address 
without loss, delay, or the trouble of corresponding with 
postmasters about forwarding copies. 


To save yourself inconvenience 
FILL OUT THIS BLANK 


and mail it to us at once. It will insure your receiving the 
all-important autumn fashion numbers of Vogue at your 
town address. 














CHANGE OF ADDRESS BLANK 








AUTUMN TOWN ADDRESS 
VOGUE 


Greenwich 
Conn. 


A Nis st aE 24 a Be et 


Please send Vogue to my town address as given below, 


Fi. ERS) LR RRO EASON eit ROE = RESP 


ES TS EES ED | A AERIS 2 A MOC TEA MLE NLM © 
POOR Ge Ass coancee Ee EOE SCT RN ote yeah ae 
My summer address as here given is to be cancelled 
SI ccs dsinSnbafi aga cD a a a le 
ni cs datntsinssizatene Gh a See es | SG I i ceciides 















A 





LD DTT oon VA A A A A A, 











VOGUE 








Maternity Corsets 


Lane Bryant is the 
largest house in the world 
selling Maternity Apparel 
daily to thousands of ex- 
pectant mothers. 

The famous Lane Bryant 
Corset is the perfected prod- 
uct of 20 years of expe- 
rience. It is the best corset 
in the world. Made in our 
workrooms. 


3.95 6.95 to 12.50 


If unable to call, write Dept. 
V1 for Free Style Book 


Lane Bryant 


21 W. 38th St. 26 W.. 39th St. 
NEW YORK 


Hanover Place nr. Fulton 


Rey 
Yama aia VaR YARN Vat VaR VERY Va VARVARA aR VARY YAR VARY VARY YARN VARY VARY VAR VARY VARY ARV Tan VAN Vay VaR VARY Vila! 


DETROIT. 
1452 Farmer St. 


CHICAGO 
101 N. Wabash Ave. 











ma MZ it dS 











ENS ENS YES BNSES ENS ENS NSS ESV ENS EXSY ESS ESS SYS ES ES 


% 


t 
ss 
| 


Vt/IENSHS ENS 

















We would like 
tosend you our 
FallCatalogue 


The new styles 
of distinction 
are shown ow 





NESIR NES INES ARES ANNES A NES ARNIS INES ARES ANE ANCES ARG 


920 OLIVE ST. 
St. Louis, Mo. 








Me 























September 15 











Reduce—the French Way 


A beautifully slender figure may be 
preserved in later years or regained by 
the use of the delightfully perfumed 
Sel Amaigrissant Clarks (Clarks Thin- 
ning Salt) in the daily hot bath. 

This entirely harmless bath salt, the 
discovery of a famous French chemist, 
was introduced into this country by an 
American woman of social prominence, 
to whom it had been highly recom- 
mended by many leaders of fashion in 
Paris. The use of Clarks Thinning 
Salt makes reduction possible without 
dieting, medicine, exercise or rubber 
bandages. 

A delightful toilette accessory for the 
woman of fleshy tendency. For sale 
by druggists, department stores, hair- 
dressers, beauty specialists, etc. If 
your dealer does not carry Clarks 
Thinning Salt, we will be glad to supply 
you direct. 

An interesting booklet “The Charming 
Figure’ sent on request. 


The Orient Co., North Wales, Pa. 
Sole Manufacturer for U. 8S. A. 
SEL AMAIGRISSANT 

CLARKS 
CLARKS THINNING SALT 


For sale by leading dealers including Alt- 
man, Stern, Gimbel, Macy, Park & Tilford 
in New York; Jordan Marsh & Co. Boston; 
Marshall Field & Co. Chicago; Strawbridge 
& Clothier and Evans, Philadelphia. 











We've gone to GREENWICH 


T HE executive and publish- 

ing offices of Royal are now 
installed in the Administration 
Building of the Condé Nast 
Publications, at Greenwich, 
Connecticut. 


e 


OUR 
EDITORIAL 
and 
ADVERTISING 
OFFICES 
REMAIN in NEW YORK 


All Subscriptions and business mail 


should be addressed to: 


VOGUE 


GREENWICH 


Conn. 


ad 




















ALB RECHTS 


ADVANCED FUR 
Style Book 





It contains descriptions and entrancing illustrations 
of live models wearing advanced Paris Fur Style Crea- 
tions. A book to delight fashion lovers—assures 
every woman of buying not only latest style, finest 
quality, but positively best values. Regardless of 
what fur you may have been considering read this 
book before purchasing. It not only is the authority 
on styles but gives definite rules of how to judge fur 
quality. True names of fur bearing animals given, as 
well as trade names. It explains wearing qualities of 


furs. 
70th Anniversary Sale 
Closes October 20th 


For 69 years fashion leaders have depended upon 
Albrecht for fur style and quality. Albrecht’s catalog 
—better, more beautiful than ever, is ready. It shows 
why Albrecht Registered Furs save you money. To 
buy furs without knowing these money-saving facts 
is unwise. It is free. Get your copy now—send 
coupon today! Address E. Albrecht & Son, 85 Sixth 
Street, Saint Paul, Minnesota. 


Albrecht Furs 
eel 


—— ee MAIL THI es ssincte glans 

E. Albrecht & Son, 
85 Sixth Street St. Paul, Minn. 
Please send copy of “Advanced Fur | 
Styles” free. 





Name | 


a 








SS 





BREAD 











Supplies Roughage 


TRADE MARK 


Reduces Weight—Aids Digestion 





BASY BREAD is essentially a Heattu 


Basy Bread is scientifi- 


supplies vitality. 
combination of grains 


cally prepared—a 
and fruits. 

Write for an interesting booklet on Basy Bread 
DOCTORS’ ESSENTIAL FOODS CoO. 


derbilt, The 


others. 





Foop. Its qualities are attested by thou- BASY BREAD is now served 
sands of satisfied consumers. None of the at the following famous New 
discomforts accompanying a regular re- York hotels—The Biltmore, 
ducing regime are evident while reducing a _ a 
with Basy Bread. is invi i a —— 

: ead. It is invigorating and The Ansonia, The Murray Hill, 


The Waldorf-Astoria, The Van- 


Majestic, The New Netherland, 
the Manger chain of hotels and 


St. Regis, The 








37 Oakwood Avenue, Orange, N. J. 























Give your Skin 
Back its Own! 


LL summer you have been exposing your skin 

to sun and wind. Its natural oils have been 
dried, its color darkened, its texture coarsened. 
Give it back its own! 


Creme de L’Infante will return to your skin all that it has lost by 
summer. It is a cream originally prepared for the Infanta Eulalia 
to enable her to withstand the dry climate of Spain. It counteracts 
the relaxing effects left by warm weather, whitens the skin and supplies 
the oils that tone it back to its former texture. $1.50. 


Visit the Salon for French Facial Treatments 
Write for booklet and questionnaire 


V. DARSY 


17-V West 4gth St. New York 
54 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré, Paris 











Darsy preparations may 
be obtained by mail or 
at these shops: New 
York—Stern Bros.; 
Boston—Caroline T. 
Peabody, 551 Boylston 
Street; San Francisco 
—White House, also 
the Darsy Salon de 
Jeunesse, 358 Sutter 
Street. The latter 
shop is authorized to 
give complete Darsy 
treatments. 


175 


Her Diary 


SEPT. [4TH 


aid Condims 
or Pan shes with 
) Re. mur PatonsA 














Yen ‘oo usid Xo Ra 
ay MAW ous awd 


| mt. S19 att 
N 4 

tod We ais 
A of She Bar 


af $14 5°," 














L 
SHOECRAF T 


Fitting the Sizes 1 to 10 
Narrow Heel AAAA toE 
714 FIFTH AVENUE 


Between 55th and 56th Sts. 
NEW YORK 








X42X Navy Blue 
For general utility wear 


Bromley Jersey Frocks 
$25.00 


No wardrobe is complete without one. 
Made to individual measurements of 
quality jersey. They do not hug the 
figure. Detachable collar and cuffs. 
Shipped on the same day order is 
received. 

In white—$30.00 


Sent prepaid to any address in the U. S., or 

Canada plus duty. Descriptive folder and 

samples on request. Sold from Coast to Coast. 
Designed and made exclusively by 


Bromley-Shepard Co., I 


For over eighteen years designers and “se 
of exclusive clothes for women. 


Do not confuse with other firms. 
Lowell, Mass. 
Boston Shop: 406 Boylston St. 












































When Smart Women Buy Candy 


They Always Sele the Same... Johnston’s Chocolates 


mah jongg, the discriminating woman chooses her candy with 
critical eye. So, usually, it's Johnston’s Chocolates. 
For a package of these varied sweets offers, in anticipation, a treat which 
is only equalled by the eating. The Choice Box, for instance, with its 22 
kinds—wno two kinds alike. 
Variety enough for everyone—deliciousness unsurpassed. And the name 
on the package assures the exclusiveness and good taste which are so essen- 
tial—whether for oneself or for a gift to another. 


O fre a quiet hour with a good book—or for guests at bridge or 


You will find an authorized Johnson's Candy Depart- 
ment in one of the better Sores in your neighborhood 


ROBERT A. JOHNSTON COMPANY - MILWAUREE ba 


ay 


PRAY. C70 
NRE 


=e 


CONDE NAST PRESS GREENWICH, CONN, 














AG. 


War. 


relay alien SI 








AREA NIE AE TES ATE AE SAD NST APT OY CORY CIE PO OO 


TIT 


pI eF wd! es SDieF se oe SDF a7 





1. N28 S218. W31CF #1 * 























The Dining Room— pride of your home; cheerful, mellow, 
with every detail contributing to the happy feeling of confi- 
dence. When friends come to enjoy your hospitality and good 
cheer, then you are grateful for that confidence, which only 
good turnishings can promote. In such a harmonious atmos- 
phere of genial warmth and refinement both heart and palate 
are most responsive. You appreciate your beautiful rug—your 
Karnak, soft and mellow in its faithful reproduction of an 
oriental masterpiece. No false note here, for Karnak is at 
home in the finest surroundings. 


MOHAWK CARPET MILLS, INC., AMSTERDAM, N. Y. 


Manufacturers of Rosslyn, Glendale and Highest Quality Chenille Carpets and Rugs 


W. & J. Sloane, Selling Agents New York 





Send 25¢ for 9 x 12 inch 
miniature Karnak Rug, 
an ideal gift for the 
children’s doll houses. 
Our authoritative booklet 
“‘Beautifying the Home’’ 
will be sent on request to 
Karnak Adv. Dept., W. 
& J. Sloane, 569 Sth Ave., 
New York. 


KARNAK RUGS 


BEAUTY , WHERE PRIDE 


DEMANDS 


1 T 








ANE NSE APE ND OF £8 IE NF LIED NIE FOI IEF £0 Oe UI CF LPL OSPF 28 Oe NPL OIE SIE 5 


Pe 





















There has been: the 
same sort of progress 
in designing heating 
plants as in design- 
ing electric lamps. 

















5 clase 


mr pee 








From a painting by 
GUILLERMO C, BOLIN 
for A.R.Co. © 1924 


You took out your old light bulbs— 
- take out your old boiler! 


7 ou couldn't afford to keep 
y the old carbon-filament 
bulbs after Mazp2&-lamps 
were introduced; they used 
toomuch current for the light 
they gave. 


How about your old-fash- 
ioned heater—hasn’t the time 
come to take it out, too? I¢ 
burns up almost as much money 
every winter as you paid for 
wt when it was new. 

Here are three big money- 
saving facts worth remem- 
bering: 

1. The Institute of Thermal 
Research of the American Ra- 


DEAL BOILERS 


COAt 9; ce ee > GAS 








diator Company thas produced a 
boiler which is to heat what the 
Mazpa Lampistolight. Itgives 
much more and better warmth, 
with a greater saving in coal. 


2. Fhe Iprat- TYPE A will 


pay for itself out of coal savings 
in from three to five years. This 









Send for this 

money-saving book 
On a postal card write your name 
and address, giving the number of 
roomein your house, and mail it to 
the office bélow. A book will be sent, 
describing the Ipzat Boiler which 
will increase comfort and save money 
in a house like yours. 













ew a 





uses no. More current. 





warmth. 
7 





- 


means you can take out your 
old-fashioned heater, have ideal 
warmth, and get your money 
back. 

3. So clean and handsome is 
the Ipzat TYPE A, that it has 
caused thousands of cellars to be 
cleaned up and dressed up—giv- 
ing the home another usable 
floor. 

For every heating need— 
from.a little radiator valve. to 
a great sectional boiler—this 
Com paity has a quality prod- 
uct specially designed. Your 
heating contractor is out dis- 
tributor; put your problem 
up to: him 


Toe 


AMERICAN. RADIATORS _ 


Your Heating Contractor is our Distributor 


AMERICAN RADIATOR COMPANY 








save fuel 











Het. 183— 1803 Elmwood Ave. N.Y. 
te, Branchee ial pelosi cies” 











TheModert Mazpa Lamp 
gives much more light than 
the old carbon lamp and 


What the Mazpa Lamp 
is to light, the’IpEeaL 
TYPE Alboiler is to 




















7 

ae 
cb er 

é is 
Pt NSF 

& 
a 

Ree ty. 


4 
7 
: 

~ 

> 

th 

Ne. 
/ 

















re ‘ 
/ 
i 4 
eb 
( 
~ 
~ et 
“Se Laas 
S 7) 
tea 
: e 
& &: 
es 
Snr 





S ’ 
= a 
Se 
. 7 
é 
yt 
Pa 
. 
r 
i 
ss % 
LF i= 
w 
i 














, 
“ 
; 
ae 
¢ 
/ ; : s 
4 es - a =. , ~ *j 
fi — 
2 », “a 
S r / 
by _ 
SS 
4 
es a 
ns : 
ee ; 
4 ack 
; . 
i> Nigh : ‘ 
f ‘ ak 
& ¢ 
ay 
— Re oe 
“ .% 
be EF 
i thy J 
, eee 
Pee ey 
eee e 
ote, 
Se 4 
é 3 . 
ak, ; 
, 
.<N 
4 Bein s 
Nisa’ 
¢ 
sr 2 faa 3 
: Te 4 Cop ae 
GA ‘ Ops 
NS 4 
mS 
x \ / 
Fey : 
/ r 
\ 
/ 
oe 
P hen 
preety or 
es ee 
* ‘ ) i : 
: } 
5 = a i 
he Pg 4, 
vk oe or 
‘ : ¥ 
mee, j Sig 
rf - pe